RMP&O's v8 80-series
- Thread starter RMP&O
- Start date
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Decreased ground clearance and bolted on means more chance for failure.
zimm
Expedition Leader
ok, so those are different then the axle rotation brackets metaltech sells. why not use the castor correction plates? http://www.metaltech4x4.com/p-352-fj80-land-cruiser-caster-correction-plates.aspx
my G has a similar suspension with a 2" lift, and while the castor isnt bad, the turn in is noticeably quick from stock. i was gong to fab a set like available for the 80, but i actually need more lift to make it work. (so i live with it.)
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
With drop brackets or caster plates (or bushings), for every degree you rotate your caster angle up (which they need 2-5*) you loose that on your pinion angle which can cause vibs. Cut/turn gives you the best of both worlds, dialed caster and a perfect pinion angle.
zimm
Expedition Leader
shouldnt you then CV or double cardan the prop shaft if you are going to point it at the tcase? you have an angle in the shaft and you need opposing forces as the shaft accelerates and decelerates thru its pivot point. i thought pinon angle was function of the distance to the tcase as well as offset. i.e. the rear of a 40 with a 4" lift and h55f will have a 17" shaft (mine) will have a much more sever pinion angle than say the front shaft of an 80 with a 4" lift, due to the front 80 shaft being much longer. you seem to suggest is a 1-1 ratio. it seems to me the castor correction plates will put the pinion angle, and the shaft angle at the tcase back at the factory setting. if the current lift height isnt giving him vibrations now, why would he have them when the angles are closer to stock?
just askin, as im pro bolt on over messing with factory welds when possible. ive never actually looked at an 80 front, i just noticed the plates and when i did the geometry for my G, i cant make a set because i cant rotate it enough to get a bolt thru.
Last edited:
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
I know on the list but you know me!!
I did not weigh it front and rear, should have but didn't. You can figure though that two guys, two dogs and a little bit of gear was a solid 350-400lbs. Which puts it at about 4800 empty. Pretty good I would say!
Cheers
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Zimm
The cardan shaft would be of no use with a c&t, without it maybe. On a linked suspension the pinion doesn't move much when the suspension cycles. At least from what I know and understand, maybe it does with radius arms though? I don't think so though. Now with leaf springs, the pinion is going to move a lot and that is where a cardan shaft is best suited, imho.
Here's the deal on the c&t. On my FJ60 I put in the MAF shackle reversal kit. With that kit in stock configuration, even with the lame wedges under the leaves, flexed up the truck and front prop shaft fell apart! No idea how people are running that kit and not having that problem, the first time I flexed the truck after the kit went in the prop shaft moved so much due to pinion rotation that it was simply not going to work. After the c&t on that truck, albeit SUA, no more problem. Now that was leaf springs and has nothing to do with the 80, however, after the lift, new springs and c&t that truck drove better than any other leaf sprung truck I have ever driven. 4wd in that truck on dry pavement at 60mph and it was so smooth you could hardly even tell it was in 4wd. After that, I am a huge fan of c&t's. Krazytoy is a good buddy of mine. He had an 80, I drove it several times. Before he c&t'ed his front axle the truck had vague steering and wandered a bit, I think he also had a small vibration but I don't recall all that well. After he did the c&t, the truck was perfect. It rode and drove like a brand new truck that was not lifted. Steering was tight and responsive, ect ect ect. I think the vague steering is normal on FJ80's. Mine has it and so did Krazytoys. I am used to it now but don't care for it much. So, the main goal with the c&t is to correct the castor without the need for any bushes, brackets or anything at all. At the same time we point the pinion at the t-case meaning the u-joints in the shaft are neutral going down the road. The c&t removes aftermarket parts form the equation meaning the suspension is basically stock in front. On top of this, on my truck I gain ground clearance. Not having aftermarket bushes or brackets also means it is easier to service or get parts for and it uses OEM stuff. If the steering tightens up how I expect it too, I am that much more stoked. It is cheap to do too, less money than buying bushes, brackets or whatever and puts the front end back to a stock configuration. It is win win in every way. Some might say, well factory welds are best and I wouldn't trust nothing but factory welds. That is nice I say, I have tested Krazytoy's welds on more than one truck (three trucks actually) and have 100% confidence in his work. And yes this means, he is helping me do the c&t!
Do I have some vibes? Not really so much. This 80 is not full time 4wd, if it was maybe I would have some more vibes. I do get some vibes at a specific speed on the HWY but right now I can not say for sure if this is due to tires/wheels or prop shafts. Since I am running an FJ60 split t-case the rear prop shaft is a bit off-set. To figure out what is causing the vibes is going to be a process of elimination. New tires & wheels all balanced up. Still have vibes, send the driveline out for a balance. Still have vibes after that perhaps a cardan shaft is the answer or I need to start looking at trans/engine mounts. The vibes I have though I could live with, they are not bad and are only at a certain speed on the HWY. It is not a wobble in the front end or a shake or any of that jazz which would drive me nuts.
Cheers
The cardan shaft would be of no use with a c&t, without it maybe. On a linked suspension the pinion doesn't move much when the suspension cycles. At least from what I know and understand, maybe it does with radius arms though? I don't think so though. Now with leaf springs, the pinion is going to move a lot and that is where a cardan shaft is best suited, imho.
Here's the deal on the c&t. On my FJ60 I put in the MAF shackle reversal kit. With that kit in stock configuration, even with the lame wedges under the leaves, flexed up the truck and front prop shaft fell apart! No idea how people are running that kit and not having that problem, the first time I flexed the truck after the kit went in the prop shaft moved so much due to pinion rotation that it was simply not going to work. After the c&t on that truck, albeit SUA, no more problem. Now that was leaf springs and has nothing to do with the 80, however, after the lift, new springs and c&t that truck drove better than any other leaf sprung truck I have ever driven. 4wd in that truck on dry pavement at 60mph and it was so smooth you could hardly even tell it was in 4wd. After that, I am a huge fan of c&t's. Krazytoy is a good buddy of mine. He had an 80, I drove it several times. Before he c&t'ed his front axle the truck had vague steering and wandered a bit, I think he also had a small vibration but I don't recall all that well. After he did the c&t, the truck was perfect. It rode and drove like a brand new truck that was not lifted. Steering was tight and responsive, ect ect ect. I think the vague steering is normal on FJ80's. Mine has it and so did Krazytoys. I am used to it now but don't care for it much. So, the main goal with the c&t is to correct the castor without the need for any bushes, brackets or anything at all. At the same time we point the pinion at the t-case meaning the u-joints in the shaft are neutral going down the road. The c&t removes aftermarket parts form the equation meaning the suspension is basically stock in front. On top of this, on my truck I gain ground clearance. Not having aftermarket bushes or brackets also means it is easier to service or get parts for and it uses OEM stuff. If the steering tightens up how I expect it too, I am that much more stoked. It is cheap to do too, less money than buying bushes, brackets or whatever and puts the front end back to a stock configuration. It is win win in every way. Some might say, well factory welds are best and I wouldn't trust nothing but factory welds. That is nice I say, I have tested Krazytoy's welds on more than one truck (three trucks actually) and have 100% confidence in his work. And yes this means, he is helping me do the c&t!
Do I have some vibes? Not really so much. This 80 is not full time 4wd, if it was maybe I would have some more vibes. I do get some vibes at a specific speed on the HWY but right now I can not say for sure if this is due to tires/wheels or prop shafts. Since I am running an FJ60 split t-case the rear prop shaft is a bit off-set. To figure out what is causing the vibes is going to be a process of elimination. New tires & wheels all balanced up. Still have vibes, send the driveline out for a balance. Still have vibes after that perhaps a cardan shaft is the answer or I need to start looking at trans/engine mounts. The vibes I have though I could live with, they are not bad and are only at a certain speed on the HWY. It is not a wobble in the front end or a shake or any of that jazz which would drive me nuts.
Cheers
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
I would also like to comment a bit about the range of the truck.
I do not like having to stop for fuel often on a trip. I do not like carrying fuel cans. For me in my trucks, I need to be able to do at least 350 miles between fuel stops to be happy. I might do a drive any time of the day and at 3am in BFE getting fuel could be a problem. On top of this the more I stop the longer it can take to knock down some miles. Bottom line, for me it is just ideal to remove the need for fuel say every 200-250 miles from the equation.
In my 04 Tacoma, I got fairly crappy mpg due tot he engine mods, weight of the truck, ect ect. With the S/C and other mods I was getting about 13-15mpg on the HWY. For the first year or two I had that truck I hated this about it. Range really sucked, iirc stock fuel tank in that truck was 19.5 gallons. Getting 250 miles between fuel stops was pushing it. We put in an aux fuel tank which was right about 19 gallons. This transformed the truck for me and I got to say it was one of the best upgrades we did to that truck.
Right now, the Cruiser is just about like the Taco was before the aux fuel tank went in. I have done the same drive I just did out to Oregon in both trucks now and in the Taco I did it before that aux tank and after. FYI, the drive to Oregon for me is about 800 miles each way. I have several mountain ranges (Rockies & Cascades) to go over as well as other smaller mnt passes plus there is a section nearly 400 miles in distance where fuel is not all that available. In other words, it is a pretty good test doing this drive. With the Cruiser, just like the Taco before aux fuel tank, I have to stop for fuel 4-5 times on this trip. In the Taco, after the aux fuel tank, I was able to stop 1-2 times for fuel. I could literally go half way before needing to stop and not even be all that low on fuel. I like this, a lot.
Now in this Cruiser I have a few options. I can go the Aussie style factory aux fuel tank. I can go aftermarket long range bigger than stock fuel tank. Or I can come up with my own system. I do not like the price of the factory upgrade, is factory aux fuel tank. It is pretty expensive from what I have researched and a bit complicated. The long range aftermarket tank hangs down below the frame rails more than I like and honestly I don't even know if I could do it due to not having a stock engine, trans & t-case. So my plan is basically, get the factory split filler neck. This has a "Y" in it for filling the 2nd tank. I like this as I don't have to cut a 2nd fuel door into the body like we did on my Taco. The rest of it I plan to be homegrown. I know a dude who can make me a SS or aluminum tank for a great price. He will make it the shape, size and mounting configuration I want. The rest of it I will just do like I had in the Taco. IE, it acts like a transfer tank. Electric fuel pump controlled by a switch on the dash. This moves fuel to the main tank via a small pipe welded into the filler neck. You can be driving down the road with a half tank in the main tank, flip the switch and watch the main tank fill up, turn off switch when full. It is that easy and simple. In the Taco I didn't like all the extra weight behind the rear axle so I would only keep fuel in the aux tank when on a long trip. On a long trip, as soon as the main tank was at 1/2, I would move fuel from behind the rear axle (aux tank) to the main tank, in other words I was moving weight. This worked great! It also gave me right about 38 gallons onboard fuel and increased range to 500+ miles.
So this is my plan to increase range. Not the first time we have done it so I know exactly what to expect. I also know a thing or two I will do different than it was in the Taco.
Cheers
I do not like having to stop for fuel often on a trip. I do not like carrying fuel cans. For me in my trucks, I need to be able to do at least 350 miles between fuel stops to be happy. I might do a drive any time of the day and at 3am in BFE getting fuel could be a problem. On top of this the more I stop the longer it can take to knock down some miles. Bottom line, for me it is just ideal to remove the need for fuel say every 200-250 miles from the equation.
In my 04 Tacoma, I got fairly crappy mpg due tot he engine mods, weight of the truck, ect ect. With the S/C and other mods I was getting about 13-15mpg on the HWY. For the first year or two I had that truck I hated this about it. Range really sucked, iirc stock fuel tank in that truck was 19.5 gallons. Getting 250 miles between fuel stops was pushing it. We put in an aux fuel tank which was right about 19 gallons. This transformed the truck for me and I got to say it was one of the best upgrades we did to that truck.
Right now, the Cruiser is just about like the Taco was before the aux fuel tank went in. I have done the same drive I just did out to Oregon in both trucks now and in the Taco I did it before that aux tank and after. FYI, the drive to Oregon for me is about 800 miles each way. I have several mountain ranges (Rockies & Cascades) to go over as well as other smaller mnt passes plus there is a section nearly 400 miles in distance where fuel is not all that available. In other words, it is a pretty good test doing this drive. With the Cruiser, just like the Taco before aux fuel tank, I have to stop for fuel 4-5 times on this trip. In the Taco, after the aux fuel tank, I was able to stop 1-2 times for fuel. I could literally go half way before needing to stop and not even be all that low on fuel. I like this, a lot.
Now in this Cruiser I have a few options. I can go the Aussie style factory aux fuel tank. I can go aftermarket long range bigger than stock fuel tank. Or I can come up with my own system. I do not like the price of the factory upgrade, is factory aux fuel tank. It is pretty expensive from what I have researched and a bit complicated. The long range aftermarket tank hangs down below the frame rails more than I like and honestly I don't even know if I could do it due to not having a stock engine, trans & t-case. So my plan is basically, get the factory split filler neck. This has a "Y" in it for filling the 2nd tank. I like this as I don't have to cut a 2nd fuel door into the body like we did on my Taco. The rest of it I plan to be homegrown. I know a dude who can make me a SS or aluminum tank for a great price. He will make it the shape, size and mounting configuration I want. The rest of it I will just do like I had in the Taco. IE, it acts like a transfer tank. Electric fuel pump controlled by a switch on the dash. This moves fuel to the main tank via a small pipe welded into the filler neck. You can be driving down the road with a half tank in the main tank, flip the switch and watch the main tank fill up, turn off switch when full. It is that easy and simple. In the Taco I didn't like all the extra weight behind the rear axle so I would only keep fuel in the aux tank when on a long trip. On a long trip, as soon as the main tank was at 1/2, I would move fuel from behind the rear axle (aux tank) to the main tank, in other words I was moving weight. This worked great! It also gave me right about 38 gallons onboard fuel and increased range to 500+ miles.
So this is my plan to increase range. Not the first time we have done it so I know exactly what to expect. I also know a thing or two I will do different than it was in the Taco.
Cheers
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
I just bought:
Metaltech 2" coil spacers
SOR dash cover
Next purchases:
Procomp 7069 16" alloy wheels
BFG KM2s 345/75R16
OEM radius arm bushes
OEM inner axle seals.
I thought to keep this thread from being so boring with blah'ing on that I would post up some pictures of previous trucks I have had.....
2004 Tacoma
1964 Nissan Patrol
1984 FJ60 v8 Land Cruiser
1975 712m Pinzgauer
1983 Nissan Patrol
1977 Nissan Patrol Ute
1964 Nissan Patrol soft top - currently under frame off restoration for a client
Cheers
Metaltech 2" coil spacers
SOR dash cover
Next purchases:
Procomp 7069 16" alloy wheels
BFG KM2s 345/75R16
OEM radius arm bushes
OEM inner axle seals.
I thought to keep this thread from being so boring with blah'ing on that I would post up some pictures of previous trucks I have had.....
2004 Tacoma
1964 Nissan Patrol
1984 FJ60 v8 Land Cruiser
1975 712m Pinzgauer
1983 Nissan Patrol
1977 Nissan Patrol Ute
1964 Nissan Patrol soft top - currently under frame off restoration for a client
Cheers
rickashay
Explorer
Wow pretty legendary collection of 4x4's you've had. Super cool. I'm digging your 80. I bet that V8 just makes it a whole new animal. I'm interested to see how you like the 345 KM2's, it's such a good looking tire on the 80. I almost went that route also but was turned off by their snow/ice performance, but you'll probably get some pretty good powder flotation with 14+" of tire width.
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Thanks!
I went back and forth trying to decide on tires. 315s just look small to me on an 80 and closer to 37" looks just right. Price difference wasn't to bad so I decided on the 345s. Where I live snow and ice is also a big concern. A couple years ago I bought a tire groover-siper for the 84 FJ60. The Maxxis tires on it were awful on ice but after I siped them it made a huge difference. Slicing up new expensive tires, now that should be fun! I was also concerned about gearing and hope I don't open up that can of worms but with the v8 I think I will be alright.
Now that the buzz is wearing off with the v8 I am trying to find out what the best mpg I can get is. Kind of hard to drive it like a grandma but I am trying!
Cheers
jim65wagon
Well-known member
I love the sound of a good V8! Nice video.
Cool series of trucks you've owned. Dig the FJ60 and the green Patrol......
RMP&O
Expedition Leader
Whole bunch of stuff has been ordered....
Metaltech 2" spacers for front
New clamshell
new windshield gasket
new OEM radius arm bushes
New OEM inner axle seals
Wheelskin leather cover for the steering wheel
Dash cover from SOR - ****** at their shipping costs these days!
new OEM 2nd overhead interior light assembly
Inchworm e-locker wiring kits
and more!
Just waiting for some clients to pay up and then I want to buy tires & wheels. After that heading over to Krazytoy's house for a weekend of working on the truck. We doing a cut & turn on the front axle.
Really hoping to take the Cruiser to Baja for a stint later in December. Still up in the air on that but really want to go and need me some time in Baja badly.
Cheers
Metaltech 2" spacers for front
New clamshell
new windshield gasket
new OEM radius arm bushes
New OEM inner axle seals
Wheelskin leather cover for the steering wheel
Dash cover from SOR - ****** at their shipping costs these days!
new OEM 2nd overhead interior light assembly
Inchworm e-locker wiring kits
and more!
Just waiting for some clients to pay up and then I want to buy tires & wheels. After that heading over to Krazytoy's house for a weekend of working on the truck. We doing a cut & turn on the front axle.
Really hoping to take the Cruiser to Baja for a stint later in December. Still up in the air on that but really want to go and need me some time in Baja badly.
Cheers
