Roam About with "Big Hank"

[parkkitchings]

Now would be a good time to read some of Edward Abbeys books, or reread them as I am doing now.

I may have to do that as I've never read any of his work. Certainly know of him but haven't read anything.

Decided to head over to the Grand Teton National Park area. There is a dirt road that leads out of the Grand Teton Park which goes east towards Idaho. Ranger had told me that you hit some National Forest land not far outside the park and dispersed camping is allowed. Opted for this as I didn't want to camp in one of the campgrounds again. Found a nice spot all alone on a lake about 10 miles outside the park. Only problems was the mosquito's ........ they were unbelievable in here. Was surprised as the nights had been getting cold and there was a little wind blowing on the lake. Worst I'd seen all summer. They about carried us away. Would have stayed here two nights but just didn't feel like fighting them a full day. I unloaded the bike late that afternoon and rode east for about another 10 miles. Fun road and some nice scenery but didn't see any wildlife.

Ran across these two guys not far from camp and they were in the CDT Mountain Bike race. Racing from the Canadian border to Mexico. They were from England and were one of them was none too happy. Friggin mosquito's had eaten him alive the night before and he looked like a pin cushion. I didn't have the heart to take his picture up close so I shot this when he wasn't looking. He was asking me how far down the road until there was until food. It was 15 miles back to pavement and a small store. He told his friend that might be the end of his race! They have to do the whole race unsupported. That is some hard core riding as they were in grizzly country, hungry, wet and being eaten alive by the skitters!

Drove back into the GT Park the following morning. Spotted a big bull moose in some thick stuff and kept trying to get a clear shot but ended up with this. After viewing it on the computer that night I decided it was one of my favorite moose shots of the entire trip.

Meadow area in Grand Teton ......

There is a dirt road in Grand Teton which you can take which makes a big loop of about 20 miles. Can't remember the name of it but it's definitely a four wheel drive endeavor and it's slow going due to roughness in places. Pretty views of the range and saw some antelope and big herds of elk. You could probably get away with popping up the camper back in here and staying a night as well. I saw one other vehicle on the entire section and they weren't going all the way through. They had driven in to a fairly steep climb out of a wash and were turning around at that point. They had four wheel drive but didn't want to try it due to some mud and the steepness. Luckily I was headed in the opposite directions and only had to come down it and not up. Not sure I would have made it through going the other way considering I was pulling the trailer and bike. Going down I could feel the trailer start to break loose and slide behind me. I paused quite awhile at the top prior to starting down it. Getting stuck in here with a trailer would suck and the weather was starting to move in. A big rain and places could get muddy in here.

 

[mdmead]

Great pics and great writing! Thanks for sharing!

 

[parkkitchings]

Great pics and great writing! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks

Messed around in park a little longer prior to heading for Jackson Hole Wyoming. I bought my camper from Denny at the Jackson Hole FWC dealership. Stopped in to say hello and Denny offered to buy lunch and told me to pop the camper up on his lot if I wanted to spend the night in Jackson. Nice to camp in town as I could walk downtown from where he was at. Hit the laundry mat, got cleaned up and roamed around downtown for the afternoon. Would highly recommend Denny if you're looking for a camper in the JH area. Was a great guy to deal with and was more than helpful if I had any questions on the camper.

Clouds were still hanging around the following morning so I decided to go north back through the park en-route to West Yellowstone. Stopped for some pics during the day but basically wanted to get back through Grand Teton/Yellowstone and exit the park in West Yellowstone. Had decided to start working my way west back towards Bend.

Some pics from the day...

After exiting the park I headed into Montana and saw a dirt road on the map which would cut off some pavement travel so decided to take it. Figured I'd stop back in there somewhere and camp for the night as well. The skies opened up on me about 5 miles in and the road turned to muck. Would have really been miserable on a bike in this stuff. The road was already damp from some previous rains but it was now swimming in water.

Came across this ranch that went on for miles. This was the owners house and private lake. Beautiful setting with lots of cattle. Talked to a ranch hand out on the road and I mentioned I saw three guys in the lake fishing. He stated that would be the owner as he doesn't let anyone else in there. Was a beautiful setting and the ranch hand told me that there was lots of wildlife on the property to include bear. Would love to have access to some of the side roads I saw from the county road I was on. Asked about camping and the hand told me that this guy loved to prosecute anybody caught on his land. Not that I could have gone on it as the gates were locked up like Fort Knox. Many miles down the road I came across some National Forest land and pulled in for the night.

Ranch and some shots nearby....

 

[chet6.7]

"saw a dirt road on the map which would cut off some pavement travel so decided to take it"
I did that once and came across a small lake that was not on my map,the lake was snaggy but full of hungry trout.
The picture of the moose is great.

 

[parkkitchings]

Took two days and rolled back into Bend. On the last day in my old buddy Hank had his larynx collapse and after a couple of emergency visits to the vet it was decided that it was his time. He was 14 years old and not in the greatest health and the collapsed larynx was just too much for him to overcome. I couldn't stand to see him struggle to get his breath and I didn't want him to suffer. I'd had him since he was 7 weeks old and as I was self employed he was with me just about 24/7. I'm just glad he got to go with me this one last time as we saw a lot of country and had a great time together. I loved him dearly and he will be missed.

A favorite picture of him about 7 years ago...

I've got a new little buddy and we're becoming fast friends. We haven't been out in the camper yet but a trip to Baja towards the first of Feb. is in the works. I'll be sure and let you know how that goes. Right now Petey is checking out some information on the internet about Baja.

After making arrangements to have Hank cremated I headed north to Tacoma to do some work for a girlfriend. It was a weird feeling not having my old buddy sitting next to me in the truck when I pulled out of Bend. Nothing like a good dog for a travelling companion. I camped up in the Gifford Forest that night north of Hood River and had another a good cry thinking back on our past adventures.

Summary: I spent 62 days in the camper on the trip and one night camping off the bike. The FWC performed flawlessly. In heavy rains or strong winds I had zero problems with it and am glad I bought it. I had shopped around for quite a while trying to find a used but finally had to pull the plug on a new one. Expensive....yes, but well built and I feel is a great long term investment.
Currently building a cabinet box for it and making some other minor modifications prior to the Baja excursion.

After the chores were done in Tacoma I parked the camper for awhile and did a one month trip via motorcycle up to Alaska. A great trip as well with some beautiful scenery and experiences. May get around to doing a write up on it as well or maybe just extend this one if there is any interest. Hope everyone that followed along enjoyed the trip and pictures.

 

[YukonMontanaTannerTrapper]

Hey.......great pictures and good reading. I appreciate you taking the time. Sorry about the pup......I fear that day. Like you, just can't wait to get back on the road........

 

[JCMatthews]

I'd love to read about your Alaska trip, especially if your pictures are as good there as they were in Yellowstone and the Teton NP.

 

[RedDog]

Bring on Baja with your rig and Petey.

 

[parkkitchings]

I'd love to read about your Alaska trip, especially if your pictures are as good there as they were in Yellowstone and the Teton NP.

Well I've got a butt load of them. Not sure how good they are but I'll just continue this write up with the Alaska journey.

I had to paint a six bay warehouse and office building that my girlfriend owns here in Tacoma. Like an idiot I agreed to do it since I've got some painting experience. What a job it turned in to. Required a ton of prep work before I got around to actually spraying. When I finally wrapped it up I knew I was going to hit the road again. Had planned on driving the truck/camper to Novia Scotia but since I'd lost my old buddy Hank decided to turn it into a motorcycle trip. I love to ride and explore by bike as well as with the camper but haven't taken many extended bike trips over the past few years due to Hank. Anyway, I prepped the bike and loaded up the gear and was set to leave on a Monday headed east to Novia Scotia. Sunday night had a change of plan. Decided I didn't want to ride across the country to get to Novia Scotia. I wanted the ride to start and end well. Can't go wrong with heading north from where I'm at. Broke out the maps and decided to do a trip to Alaska. I've ridden some in British Colombia and knew the trip would be good from day one as BC is gorgeous with great riding. I had been up to Alaska by truck about 25 years ago and figured I'd go again. No set destination other than ride up, look for Grizzlies (I'm fascinated when watching them) shoot pics, camp, enjoy the scenery.

Gonna post up a bunch of pics with some write up but not much. This is going to be more of a photo dump report on the ride. It was a great ride and I want to get back up that way in the truck sooner than later. Be glad to address any questions if someone wants more detail on the pictures.

Here's the ride. 2007 Suzuki Strom (DL650) with about 30K on it. Really enjoyed the bike over the years and it's been on some great trips.

Left Tacoma and fought a load of traffic up through Seattle until crossing the border. Rode up through Hope, BC, jumped on 97 and just hammered pavement until dark trying to get in some miles since the traffic delay in Seattle slowed things down. Didn't stop much for pics as I've ridden this section before when I came up to Bella Coola. Found a gravel road leading down to the Fraser River south of Cache Creek and called it for the night. Scenic spot and not visible from the road but it was a long night. Trains across the river started running around 11 and came through every hour. Up early and pounded out some more pavement up to Prince George area. Weather was perfect on the first day. Perfect temps and no rain.

Threw down the cot and bag and opted not to set the tent up since the weather was looking good.

Day two consisted of more pounding pavement. I put in 410 miles but did take a side tour of an old mining town called Barkerville. Pretty cool place with people dressed up and walking around. Kinda touristy though so not sure it was worth it and I had to ride about 100 miles out of the way to view it. On the way out I rode through a downpour for about an hour but then it cleared back up.

Old blacksmith shop still in operation.....

Of course any Adventure rider worth his weight has to seek out every Tim Horton's he can find. I can't pass one of these stinkin things without stopping for coffee and doughnuts. D@#$ things are everywhere up here. I try to ride by but it never seems to happen. I've even been known to do a U-turn after going by. Weak! God help me if they ever start building these things in the states.

More to come.........

 

[conifers4]

I have nothing useful to add to this thread other than I really enjoy the updates. Photos and story are really great, keep up the good work and stay safe.

 

[parkkitchings]

I have nothing useful to add to this thread other than I really enjoy the updates. Photos and story are really great, keep up the good work and stay safe.

Just knowing that some are reading this is adding alot.

Stayed just outside Prince Rupert the second night and not much to report. Was headed up to Stewart BC/Hyder Alaska in hopes of finding some grizzlies to shoot. Up the following morning and pounded out some more miles. Had an unusual encounter today while stopping alongside the road. Had to adjust some straps so pulled over and while doing so this guy comes walking out of the woods with this staff full of feathers. I inquire about it and he begins to explain to me that he carries it around to ward off evil spirits. He was in the woods taking a dump and was getting back on the road where he was walking in honor of his people.......final destination was 200 miles down the road. I inquired about a pack/food or something and he said he doesn't need it as the spirits will provide for him when he has to stop for the night. Nice guy but a little off. Told me all about his broken leg and how he use to smoke, etc., etc., etc.. He blessed the Strom with his staff full of feathers and continued on with his walk. You meet all kinds out here. One thing I really like about travelling......some of the characters you seem to run across.

Following day jumped on the Cassiar-Stewart and rode into Stewart, BC which is just this side of the border where you cross over into Hyder. Both Stewart and Hyder are funky little towns. All the people I met and talked to seemed like they were running from something. Nothing much out there and it's one way in and one way out. Beautiful area though. Camped in a little municipal park ran by the town of Stewart. Hot showers and clean. Plus in the tenting area they had a covered area which was nice because it rained like hell the second night I was there. Had a bear scare the second night and ended up sleeping on the table under the cover. I had walked to town which is about 1/4 mile from the camp area and was returning well after dark. The clouds had rolled in and was really foggy and kinda spooky. I had a headlamp with me and I got back to camp I hear something in the field behind the tent. Sure enough I shine the light on a nice sized grizzly feeding about 50 feet behind the tent. Was basically doing a little digging and eating some grass. It stops, looks my way and goes right back to his meal. Now I've been around quite a few grizzlies over the years and have had a couple of "pucker moments" but something about the heavy fog, location of my tent to the feeding area and...... well you get the idea. Plus I'd just had a nice big juicy hamburger and just knew he could smell the odor pouring out every pore in my body. For some reason I just wasn't ready for bed at the moment. I sat and watched him for awhile as it moved in and out of the fog at the edge of my light and finally got back in the thicker stuff where I could no longer see it. Something about being wrapped in a nylon tent with very little vision persuaded me to pull the bag out of the tent and sleep on the picnic table under the cover. Figured if Mr. Grizzly was going to show back up at least I'd be able to sit up and look him in the eye before I became dessert. A beautiful animal to watch at this range just wish it would have been broad daylight and no fog. Note: Heed the sign if camping in Stewart, BC.

After not becoming a meal I was up the next morning heading over the border to Hyder, Alaska to ride up to the Salmon Glacier.

Met this guy up top at the main overlook for the glacier. He refers to himself as the bear man and has been coming up here for 31 years. Says he's 75 and spends all summers up here. He has taken some bear pics and videos and sets up a little table. Pictures aren't that great and not sure he sells much. I spent all day just screwing around up in the area and probably saw half a dozen vehicles so not sure he's rolling in the money. Funny thing is he lives up here in a tent set up along the crapper to block the wind. There isn't anything up here other than the view, bears and skeeters. He stays up for 6 days and then goes back into town to resupply one day a week. About 25 miles via a dirt road back into Hyder with nothing in between. Was colder than hell up here and it was still August. It must get really cold at night up here next to this glacier. He says he usually lasts until the end of September and comes up in May. I love meeting people like this and getting their story. He was real interesting to talk to.

Lives in this all summer. Says if the weather really gets bad he'll spend the night in his car.

Long live the "Bear Man"....

Some more shot while up near the glacier.

Was getting late and I wanted to stop by the river outside Hyder on the way down in hopes of viewing some bear feeding on the Salmon which were now running. Didn't see any on the way up this morning so thought I'd go back late.

Scored! Stay tuned......more to come.

 

[aero]

Great pictures and write up.

 

[pdxfrogdog]

Great stories, great photos... thanks for sharing all this with us!

 

[parkkitchings]

Headed back towards Hyder to check out the Forest Service viewing station. Had heard from a ranger that the bear spotting had been slim the past week or so since the salmon run was almost over. I had hauled all of my camera gear with me up to the glacier so was hoping I'd spot something. It's a real pain sometimes hauling all the gear on a bike. The grizzlies were out in full force. Spotted a couple prior to the viewing station and pulled off to get some shots. I could sit and watch bears for hours on end. Not quite sure why but I just like viewing them in their natural habitat. It was raining which makes the camera gear even more of a pain to deal with off the bike.

This is what these brutes were after in the river....

Got one......

Check out the missing chunk of ear on this guy. He was swimming around in a deep pool off the river and I hiked back in to get this. Little grainy but it was almost dark at this point. He kept swimming right at me and I kept expecting him to veer off. Apparently he didn't see or smell me and just kept coming. I quickly started backing out of there before he finished his swim right where I was standing.

Some more shots of the area. Hyder has one bar and is famous for getting Hyderized. It's a a large shot of 150 grain alcohol. I didn't try it but saw a couple of young girls do it and one of them puked it back up. She didn't look to good after taking the shot. Hung out and talked with some of the locals here and there is an interesting mix of people who settle up here. Met two guys in Hyder on new BMW GS's 1200 and got to talking about the ride up to the glacier and the bear viewing. They had just gotten in to town and were staying at the only hotel in town. Stated they were heading out tomorrow morning and I told them they had to go up the road to the glacier. Response......we don't like to do gravel roads, especially if there has been any recent rain. Gets the bikes all muddy. I couldn't believe they'd ridden all this way and were turning around. To each his own I guess. The Salmon Glacier is not to be missed. Hell, most riders could get a fully loaded Gold Wing with a passenger up that road even in the pouring rain and they were on adventure style bikes. Showed them the pics and they still didn't want to get dirty!

Store front in downtown Stewart, BC. Stewart is on the Canadian border and then you drive about a mile where you cross over in to the states at Hyder, Alaska. Road ends outside of Hyder.

 

[pdxfrogdog]

Oh man, never been close to bears in the wild... a little spooky how they are staring back in a couple photos!