Roam About with "Big Hank"

parkkitchings

Adventurer
So after spending two nights in Valdez I get up and decide what to do. Stay another day in Valdez or go. There was a hike I wanted to do and the weather was good but was suppose to turn to rain that night. I decided to mount up and ride back out while the weather was holding. The drive over Thompson Pass is great with some clear weather and it looked like it was holding this morning. Explored some small side roads and started working my way back towards Haines, Alaska. I was around 800 miles from there so knew I'd be stopping somewhere in between for at least two nights. I had run into a guy on a KLR who had come up on the Alaskan Ferry doing the inland passage. I had been considering going back that way especially since the weather looked liked it was turning. One day would be fairly warm in the high 50's and then it would turn cold. I didn't want to have to ride all the way back down to the lower 48 in cold rain or possibly snow so I called and could get on the ferry leaving Haines the 15th. Got confirmed and then really started to slow down. Figured it would be fun to try something new and once I made Haines I could chill out on the ferry and float home. Guy at the ferry office said they had showers, a bar, heated area to camp on the boat and inexpensive food. He didn't lie! Knew I would be going through some great scenery and could kick back and really enjoy it since I'd be taking the ferry. Headed out to Valdez and started working my way towards GlenAllen. Not much there, one hotel and a gas station. Had been told of a food cart that sold Thai food that was a must stop. Guy said it was the best that he'd ever had.

Found it along with some stickers of wisdom. Food was nothing to write home about but there was plenty of it. I'm not a picky eater so it doesn't take much to satisfy me.

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Some pics on the drive out of Valdez. Fall colors were in their prime now and the views were spectacular.

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Rode about another 100 miles and saw a place alongside the road with some nice little cabins. The weather was crap and I was cold so setting up and tearing down the tent was not something I was looking forward to. Pulled in and since it was late in the season the lady would let me have one for $60 which included breakfast the following morning. Sold! Most comfortable bed I think I've ever slept in. Down filled mattress with down comforter...... heaven! Had community showers and crapper so nothing in the cabin but it was warm, very comfortable and dry.

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chet6.7

Explorer
I enjoyed the Inland Passage ferry,slept on deck,what a view.
On the way up from Seattle I thought the ferry prices were a rip off,on the way down I thought what a deal.
I like that eagle picture,I was fishing and some tourists let their Dachshund out of their car.The eagle looked just like that focused on the dog,some locals told them that bird will take your dog,they ignored the advice for awhile,but the intensity of the eagle convinced them.If that dog would have been just a few feet away from the group he would have been lunch.
Looking forward to the next update.
 

parkkitchings

Adventurer
Stunning pictures and a great adventure as always!

Thanks. Glad you're following along.

I enjoyed the Inland Passage ferry,slept on deck,what a view.
On the way up from Seattle I thought the ferry prices were a rip off,on the way down I thought what a deal.
I like that eagle picture,I was fishing and some tourists let their Dachshund out of their car.The eagle looked just like that focused on the dog,some locals told them that bird will take your dog,they ignored the advice for awhile,but the intensity of the eagle convinced them.If that dog would have been just a few feet away from the group he would have been lunch.
Looking forward to the next update.

I wasn't sure I'd like it but glad I did it. Great way to just kick back, relax, do some reading, meet some great people. I'd highly recommend it at least once. Was wondering why the prices would be different dependent upon which way the ferry was headed? I thought the prices for all the food and drink on the boat were quite reasonable. I heard of a story once where a lady let a little Yorkie out of her car in Homer Alaska and an eagle took it. I saw some in Haines that could have easily taken a small dog.

Great pics and great story. Thanks for sharing. Whats the date of the pics with the colors turning?

Thanks for following along. The colors really started coming full on around the 10th of Sept. I was told by some locals that it usually occurs a little later but a cold snap had brought it on a little earlier this year. It's quite a sight in places.

I kept putting in the miles and crossed back over the border into the Yukon Territory headed south. Border agent told me he hadn't seen many bikers since last week as most have already come through this time of the year headed south. Told him I only had a few hundred more miles to go as I was headed to Haines, Alaska to catch the ferry. Made it as far as Beaver Creek before calling it a night. Had planned to get some more miles but just south of Beaver Creek I ran into a major construction zone t and was told it was muddy and tore up for the next 40 miles so it'd be slow going. Not sure what lay south and I didn't want to bush camp in the area so I turned around and rode about 3 miles back into Beaver Creek. Ended up camping here in a non-descript territorial campground. Had hoped to get a little further south but was told that after Beaver Creek they weren't allowing any tent camping in the provincial park campgrounds until Kluane Lake due to bear activity. Not sure they really enforce this but I did see some signage during the trip stating that no tent camping was allowed. I didn't want to get caught down there after dark and not able to find a place. Some of these really small towns with only one lodging facility charge unbelievable prices for a basic room. I stopped at a couple where they wanted $150 and the place was falling apart. They've got you by the balls if you aren't able to camp. Even if you were to come up here and plan to stay in lodging I would still recommend to bring camping gear. You could be screwed if you didn't have it.

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Had to do a little side road exploration though en-route.

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Old church in Beaver Creek. Supposedly it's haunted as back in the 60's some guy killed a girl and brought her to the alter of the church and left her. Lady in town told me about and that I should stop by. Said it's usually open but if locked she told me where to find the key. Of course I had to go now. Found the key and went in but I didn't feel the presence of any spirits.

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Next morning the weather was cold but nice and sunny. Plan was to make Haines Junction in the Yukon and if either stay there or cross back into Alaska and make Haines.

Kluane Lake area.

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Tooling along enjoying the view and I came up on this young lady. She was looking at her bike so I pulled over to see if she was alright. Everything was fine and we started talking about her ride. Come to find out she's on a three year journey around the world totally self powered. I stated well you have to fly to each continent and she responds....... know I've already rowed across the Pacific Ocean and will row across the Atlantic this summer. ******? She had also just kayaked the Aleutian Islands and was now biking down to the east coast where she was going to row again. Has one of those special row boats that you can seal up when the seas get big. 29 years old! She's got a blog site if you want to check it out. She was the real deal. You think you've been on some adventures in your lifetime until you run across someone like this. I am a total wuss compared to her. Said the only thing that had really scared her so far was the camping in Grizzly country.

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Only problem with this stop was that we sat around and shot the breeze for about 30 minutes and like an idiot I left my heated liner on full power sitting there all warm and happy. Time to leave and no joy. Now I'm out here in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery. She offered to stay with me and give me a hand but I told her nothing she could really do so she took off as she was trying to make a campground which was about another 25 miles. I had passed a gravel road a ways back that looked like it had seen some traffic so I humped down there to see if I could find anyone. Walk up on this clapped out shack and start thinking about the scene from Deliverance and one of the characters is going to step out and start shooting. A woman lives here by herself and she was scary to say the least. I wanted to take here picture but didn't dare. She had these coveralls on that hadn't seen a washing machine in a long time. She had a few old trucks and junk cars laying around but she said all of them were broke down with no batteries. I asked her if I could just borrow the cables and take them back on the road in hopes of flagging someone down. I'd bring them back when I was back on the road. Her response was....don't make me come looking for you. Trust me, I'll be coming back with them you can rest assured. Walked back to the bike and got a jump in about 20 minutes. Place was a nightmare. I asked her if she lived out there during the winter months. She stares at me and says..... duh, where else would I live. I dropped off those cables and hauled *** out of there. Took a pic of her place while she was inside rummaging around for the cables but feared for my life if she were to catch me.

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Some more shots of the area....

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Got into Haines Junction, ate a quick burger and headed toward Haines. A guy at the burger stand told me about a side road I should check out so about 30 minutes outside of Haines Junction. I found it and did some exploring. It's in the Kluane-Wrangell Wilderness area but due to ground clearance and street tires on the Strom I couldn't go very far in on it. Would love to get back here with a more dirt worthy bike. Everything you could ask for....rough, remote, water crossings, beautiful, no people and the possibility of getting eaten. Dualsporting utopia!

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Saw plenty of this on the road going in.....

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The drive from Haines Junction in the Yukon to Haines, Alaska was probably the highlight of the trip. It is a beautiful ride in. I could have easily taken a few days to do it as I'm sure there are lots of side roads one could poke around on but I needed to get into Haines a couple of days early to ensure I didn't miss the boat. Was the next to last boat heading south for the summer season and I didn't want to miss it.

Some more shots of the ride....

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Last edited:

chet6.7

Explorer
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by parkkitchings
"Thanks. Glad you're following along.

I wasn't sure I'd like it but glad I did it. Great way to just kick back, relax, do some reading, meet some great people. I'd highly recommend it at least once. Was wondering why the prices would be different dependent upon which way the ferry was headed? I thought the prices for all the food and drink on the boat were quite reasonable. I heard of a story once where a lady let a little Yorkie out of her car in Homer Alaska and an eagle took it. I saw some in Haines that could have easily taken a small dog."


I was thinking of my trip in 1980,the ferry prices on the way up were quite a bit higher than CA prices,when I got to Craig on Prince Wales,the ferry prices looked good.
I think prices may have gotten better,I flew up in 1990 and the prices were not hugely different.The produce even looked edible.:)
 

parkkitchings

Adventurer
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by parkkitchings
"Thanks. Glad you're following along.

I wasn't sure I'd like it but glad I did it. Great way to just kick back, relax, do some reading, meet some great people. I'd highly recommend it at least once. Was wondering why the prices would be different dependent upon which way the ferry was headed? I thought the prices for all the food and drink on the boat were quite reasonable. I heard of a story once where a lady let a little Yorkie out of her car in Homer Alaska and an eagle took it. I saw some in Haines that could have easily taken a small dog."


I was thinking of my trip in 1980,the ferry prices on the way up were quite a bit higher than CA prices,when I got to Craig on Prince Wales,the ferry prices looked good.
I think prices may have gotten better,I flew up in 1990 and the prices were not hugely different.The produce even looked edible.:)

Price from Haines to Bellingham was $815 for the bike and myself. That did not include a berth as I slept out on the deck. Gas prices were still kind of high when I was up there so I didn't think this was too bad of a deal. When you figure it would have taken me another three nights to get back into Seattle on the bike, possibly four and you factor in lodging, gas, the forecasted bad weather, etc. it made sense to take the ferry. Plus, it was something different than I'd never done before.

Excellent trip report and really like your pictures! Thanks for posting it!

Glad you like the pics. I try and take quite a few when I'm on a trip so that I can share them here plus have them when I'm an old fart to look back on.

Crossed back through customs into the states and came upon a road house about 30 miles outside of Haines. As it was getting late I thought I'd stop and see if they had any basic cabins. Saw a couple and hoped I could score something. Come to find out the place is where they do a lot of heliskiing out of in the winter and they had some cabins. I met the owner and told him I was just looking for something dry and didn't need any heat or electric. He had one that just had a bunk and an old recliner plus he turned the breaker back on so I had some lights. He had kind of shut it down for the season and hadn't cleaned it up from the summer season but I didn't care. Let me have it for $20. Anytime I can score something like this it' like staying at the Hilton. No tent set up and tear down! Had a separate shower building and a little restaurant and bar as well. Really friendly staff, cold beer and good food. Basically the only thing until you get into Haines. I had two nights to spend either here or in Haines prior to catching the ferry at 6 pm on the third day so I had two full days to mess around here.

The Hilton..

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They had a resident goat that was a trip. I gave him a piece of a bagel I had in my tank bag when I was unloaded and he friggin drove me crazy after that. Hung out at the door ramming his head against it and when I came out he'd start butting you wanting more. I ended up giving the beast almost a whole loaf of bagels.

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After unloading at the Hilton I mounted back up to check out the old Dalton road which was about ten miles back towards Haines. Rode it in about 15 miles before it started getting real muddy due to some recent heavy rains. Real pretty area up in the rain forest. Saw a lot, and I mean a lot, of bear scat on the road back in here. Bears must use it as a through fare regularly!

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Some shots near a small creek back on the Dalton Trail.

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Big eagle.....

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Sound advice for this area....

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Got back to the Hilton well after dark and called it a night. Decided to head on in to Haines after breakfast tomorrow morning to check out the town and hopefully find some grizzlies to shoot pics of. The salmon were running on the Chilkoot and it is suppose to be a prime time for bear viewing along the river.

Road hits the ocean here in Haines and you can go left or right for about 8 miles both directions before the road literally ends. Assume quite a few riders/overlanders don't make the drive into Haines as it's one way in and one way out unless you're doing the ferry route. Big mistake as Haines as well as the road in and out was a highlight of the trip. Hung out at the local coffee shop for a couple of hours and then over to the public library (which is a really nice library for a small community such as this). Haines is a cool little town and I could certainly see the appeal as to why people move here. Quite a few of the locals I talked with in the coffee shop try and get out for a couple of months during the winter months though. Only problem with the location, although beautiful, is that once you're in here ..... you're in! Unless flying out it's a long drive out. I read the book If You Lived Here I'd Know Your Name by Heather Lende prior to coming up here and it gave me a lot of insight on life here in Haines. It's an excellent read and would highly recommend even if you aren't headed this way.

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Bear pics coming up.......
 
Last edited:

java

Expedition Leader
Thanks again for the updates! Really appreciate the time it takes to write the story and upload and pic all the pictures.
 

parkkitchings

Adventurer
Headed to a campground about 10 miles out of Haines on Chilkoot Lake when I came across a sign saying they had a miners cabin for $10 a night. Did a U-turn here and checked it out. They were getting ready to close down in a week and I'd have the cabin all to myself. Another Hilton room.

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Headed down to the Chilkoot River area in hopes of finding some grizzlies feeding. Score!

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Hung out for a couple of hours just watching them feed and interact. I could literally spend all day watching these guys. This guy showed up and ran everybody off including the people. He was the alpha bear among the others and literally chased a couple of the younger guys off. He also decided he wanted to be where a group of photographers were set up. Needless to say, they packed up and moved as well.

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Stayed till dark and headed back to the Hilton for some fine dining. Plan was to return early the following morning for some grizzly action.

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View from my room....

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ico135

New member
amazing pictures. Thanks for sharing with us. On page 5 now and subscribed for later. Loved your story about how you woke up in gravel pit with sheriff.

Reminded me of road trip from Tahoe - southern CA - across to MS -back up and across to CO and back to Tahoe that i took. Spent a month on a Ninja 600 with tent, sleeping bag and bag of cloths. Took that bike across all kinds of off road trails, who knew a crotch rocket was a dual sport. Anyway was cold and tired one night and sun had set and took random dirt road to off road trail for about a mile and set up what you call "stealth camp". woke up next morning on a hill and over the other side was the local dumping grounds. Old microwaves, fridges, couches etc,etc. Basically camped on a mountain of garbage.

anyway sorry for rambling but it sounds like a good theme for a thread that needs starting:

"i set camp in the dark and woke up ________"
 

parkkitchings

Adventurer
amazing pictures. Thanks for sharing with us. On page 5 now and subscribed for later. Loved your story about how you woke up in gravel pit with sheriff.

Reminded me of road trip from Tahoe - southern CA - across to MS -back up and across to CO and back to Tahoe that i took. Spent a month on a Ninja 600 with tent, sleeping bag and bag of cloths. Took that bike across all kinds of off road trails, who knew a crotch rocket was a dual sport. Anyway was cold and tired one night and sun had set and took random dirt road to off road trail for about a mile and set up what you call "stealth camp". woke up next morning on a hill and over the other side was the local dumping grounds. Old microwaves, fridges, couches etc,etc. Basically camped on a mountain of garbage.

anyway sorry for rambling but it sounds like a good theme for a thread that needs starting:

"i set camp in the dark and woke up ________"

to a world I was unfamiliar with!

It looks like that bear has been tagged twice,I wonder how much of that he remembers.
I watch this cam in season.http://www.alaskawebcams.org/bearcam.htm

Talked with a ranger in Alaska and they told me that British Colombia doesn't tag their grizzlies but they do in Alaska. Not sure why and the validity of this statement but I didn't notice any tagged in BC. I've watched that cam before and I would love to get to those falls to shoot pics. I've seen photo expeditions advertised to there but it's expensive. Maybe one day.

Got up early the following morning in hopes of sighting some more grizzlies but first headed into town for some coffee. Ran into this couple who was living out of this rig. Can't remember exactly how long they'd been on the road but it was awhile. The UniMogs look cool and everything but seems like overkill to me, especially here in the states. I would feel a little pretentious driving around in this thing as it's got to attract a lot of attention. Not sure what I'd be doing that requires a rig this beefy and big. They are cool to look at though.

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Chilkoot River where it empties out in the bay...

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They knew I was heading to Haines and put up a sign for me....

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Hung out down by the river for most of the day and and only spotted one bear. Was probably a little late as early mornings are usually the best time. Did however see some eagles which I shot for awhile. Figured I'd go back early tomorrow morning before catching the ferry.

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Lighting was bad and the focus is off but thought this was a cool shot. Saw the bear walking towards the eagle who was perched on a stump and threw the camera up just as the eagle took flight. Wish the lighting and focus had of been better.

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68GTconvert

New member
Man those eagle shots are awesome. I love the first one on this page. Did you try sharpening the last shot in PS? I have been lurking here but decided to comment.
 

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