Thanks John. Definitely i will consider this. will post an update i get this into the build.
Roof top tent - DIY - Scratch build
- Thread starter balu4k
- Start date
Thanks John. Definitely i will consider this. will post an update i get this into the build.
yes. i have seen this initially when i was searching for ideas. this definitely one of the thread that gave me confidence to start on this build. thanks for sharing again.
UK4X4
Expedition Leader
In venezuela they manufacture a lot of wood frame RTT's they usually use 1/2" ply but with a larger edge surround to provide more stiffness,
The simplest upper section -tentage was made by mares a single sheet from front to rear waterproofed PVC/canvas
the sides were breathable with vents
I may be looking at building one down the road- already have the materials- just lacking a garage
One of the things I was looking at was the two outer hoops being extendable - to make more room or afixing them from the outer edges rather than the center giving you more height when deployed
but a flatter profile
Mozy net mine had velcro either side and a small bar at the bottom of the door
The net fixed over the outer bar and the lower bar and simply slid backwards and forwards across the openning
Just things to add to your thought process !
here's some pics for ideas
In this pic I was looking at the standard style base
But using exterior standard curved ploes and clips to see how much bigger an area I could get
The simplest upper section -tentage was made by mares a single sheet from front to rear waterproofed PVC/canvas
the sides were breathable with vents
I may be looking at building one down the road- already have the materials- just lacking a garage
One of the things I was looking at was the two outer hoops being extendable - to make more room or afixing them from the outer edges rather than the center giving you more height when deployed
but a flatter profile
Mozy net mine had velcro either side and a small bar at the bottom of the door
The net fixed over the outer bar and the lower bar and simply slid backwards and forwards across the openning
Just things to add to your thought process !
here's some pics for ideas
In this pic I was looking at the standard style base
But using exterior standard curved ploes and clips to see how much bigger an area I could get
Experts and RTT owners,
need some suggestions on how to attach the tent fabric to the plywoods around the edges? I don't want to glue them to the plywood. so i am thinking of placing the tent fabric between plywood and aluminium trim and use screws to fix them.
I haven't seen any RTT in person till now. it will be great some one here can post me a pic of how the fabric has be held to the plywood, then i can get some idea out of it.
thanks in advance..
need some suggestions on how to attach the tent fabric to the plywoods around the edges? I don't want to glue them to the plywood. so i am thinking of placing the tent fabric between plywood and aluminium trim and use screws to fix them.
I haven't seen any RTT in person till now. it will be great some one here can post me a pic of how the fabric has be held to the plywood, then i can get some idea out of it.
thanks in advance..
Hafwit
Adventurer
If you reinforce the edge of the tent where it attaches by folding over the fabric a few times, you could both staple and glue it to the plywood. I would be concerned that your hinges on either side will be a weak point where they attach to the plywood. All the force exerted on those bolts is transmitted over a very limited area. You might want to insert a steel backing plate that distributes that force over a wider area.
Cheers,
Greg
Cheers,
Greg
UK4X4
Expedition Leader
The veno RTT's
some are held by rivits and large washers
some are held down by cord-bungy
The base board always had a 2" side to it- wood or aluminum angle for the full aluminum bases
The material came down on the outside to the lowest edge of the base
folded back up behind 2" and down again with a finshed edge 1 3/4" down - ie 1/4" shorter than the outer
the rivets/ gromets were in the rear 1 3/4" drop
So from the outside you don't see the holes and fixings
Rain follows down the full outer edge
some are held by rivits and large washers
some are held down by cord-bungy
The base board always had a 2" side to it- wood or aluminum angle for the full aluminum bases
The material came down on the outside to the lowest edge of the base
folded back up behind 2" and down again with a finshed edge 1 3/4" down - ie 1/4" shorter than the outer
the rivets/ gromets were in the rear 1 3/4" drop
So from the outside you don't see the holes and fixings
Rain follows down the full outer edge
Thanks Greg. Yes definitely. I had plans to have some extrusions at the middle to balance the load. i will consider the backing plate idea.
Its was slow week waiting for the tent materials to arrive. finally it arrived. after having many sketches over the scribbling pad, made cuts for the roof, sidewalls, etc. stitched nylon webbing to the roof with loops in it which will inserted into the tent frames. I don't have the exact picture of what i am talking. i will take a photo of that later and post it. rest of other in progress photos are below.
Mike S
Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
Are you using truck tarp material (PVC) for the fabric? If so you need to consider mitigating condensation by adding more ventilation.
If you build the tent so that the ceiling bows have a full length fabric pocket this will also mitigate some condensation and dripping inside the tent.
I would suggest using 2" X 2" aluminum angle on the edges of the base platform, and one or two 1" X 2" rectangular aluminum tube positioned on the bottom of the tent platform about 1/3 in from each edge. This will add to stiffness of the bottom. Also. if you can figure a way to attach the ladder with a bracket that limits travel by locking in the down position, you will lessen the chance of the ladder slipping under load. If the ladder slips you risk damage to the hinges and platform.
On the inner (hinge) edge of the plywood platform, think about a pair of metal plates that meet when the tent platform is opened flat. This will assist in supporting the platform during set-up and eliminate wear and splintering on those vulnerable edges.
When attaching anything to the edge of the plywood platform you should avoid wood screws anchored in the plywood end grain. They will not hold well. Machine screws with threaded pocket inserts epoxied into the edge will be much stronger, and allow you to change out components if needed.
You might also consider sheathing the plywood with 1/16" plastic to make it easy to clean and avoid splinters and wear and tear on the paint.
Just a few thoughts.
If you build the tent so that the ceiling bows have a full length fabric pocket this will also mitigate some condensation and dripping inside the tent.
I would suggest using 2" X 2" aluminum angle on the edges of the base platform, and one or two 1" X 2" rectangular aluminum tube positioned on the bottom of the tent platform about 1/3 in from each edge. This will add to stiffness of the bottom. Also. if you can figure a way to attach the ladder with a bracket that limits travel by locking in the down position, you will lessen the chance of the ladder slipping under load. If the ladder slips you risk damage to the hinges and platform.
On the inner (hinge) edge of the plywood platform, think about a pair of metal plates that meet when the tent platform is opened flat. This will assist in supporting the platform during set-up and eliminate wear and splintering on those vulnerable edges.
When attaching anything to the edge of the plywood platform you should avoid wood screws anchored in the plywood end grain. They will not hold well. Machine screws with threaded pocket inserts epoxied into the edge will be much stronger, and allow you to change out components if needed.
You might also consider sheathing the plywood with 1/16" plastic to make it easy to clean and avoid splinters and wear and tear on the paint.
Just a few thoughts.
Thanks Mike for the awesome suggestions.
Its a Vinyl fabric made for tent purpose. Its tear resistant, water proof and breathable. Definitely i will consider the idea of the full length pocket. its a great idea.
Can you show a pic what you mean by threaded inserts for machine screws.
Also, instead for sheathing, i am thinking of painting it. whats your thought on it.
Its a Vinyl fabric made for tent purpose. Its tear resistant, water proof and breathable. Definitely i will consider the idea of the full length pocket. its a great idea.
Can you show a pic what you mean by threaded inserts for machine screws.
Also, instead for sheathing, i am thinking of painting it. whats your thought on it.
Thanks Mike
JamesDowning
Explorer
How's the progress coming along?
By the looks of it, you're into the difficult part of the process. The seaming took me much longer than I had expected, and proved to include many headaches.
Let me know if you have any questions, and I can attempt to answer them for you!
Good luck!
By the looks of it, you're into the difficult part of the process. The seaming took me much longer than I had expected, and proved to include many headaches.
Let me know if you have any questions, and I can attempt to answer them for you!
Good luck!
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Yes James. You are right. Seaming with standard sewing machine not an easy process. but yes i managed to make the progress and now done with both the sides with the window along with zipper, mosquito netting and rain / sun shades for them. This week is to start with the main entry door. waiting for a heavy duty zipper to arrive which i ordered from amazon.
I am not able to take many pics and its not in any form of shape while sewing. will post some pics once finish aligning both the center piece and the side pieces.. may be in a week. So far feeling good with the build.
once this is done, i have to figure out how exactly i am going to mount the corners to the wood platform. i will look into idea posted above like using aluminum angle, machine screws and some glue.