RSB's Radiant Red Tacoma build

RSB

Adventurer
Ryan,

The 'problem' with the ARB was brought up by my fabricator - Jed (Armorology). He has told me that several guys have had to tighten their ARBs back down following winching at angles.

I have had to winch twice since I have owned the rig. Once I was buried to my axles in thick kansas mud. Another time I had to winch out a buddy's full size dodge (regular cab 2WD) out of a thicket. I have not experienced any loosening with my Armorology bumper. I have 6 attachment points per side...

I was just wondering if you had this issue at all. I figure that you would give an accurate account if this was...your build is exceptional.

Regards,

BWJ

Hi BWJ, ya I haven't had this problem apparently because I did the end-cap modification before installing my winch. It's still not clear to me though if the mod also prevents the bolts from loosening. Either way, I haven't had any problem yet—but I'll be continue to watch it closely.

Very good discussion! Thanks for the kind words. :)
 
Last edited:

RSB

Adventurer
I replaced the brake pads (and consequently, driver-side caliper too :mad:) and installed a few other things this weekend...

New recovery hooks up front. I don't like using the points on the ARB anymore, as the design is weak, in my opinion. I don't know if ARB has since improved on this, but every other fabricated bumper I've seen ensures the recovery point fills the gap between the eyes of a standard 3/4 ton clevis. Not less than half! :bigbossHL:

1208146548_QfHqJ-XL.jpg


Decals.

Yes, the first decals on the truck are finally on. In my opinion, decals can completely change the look of a vehicle if not done right (which is why it took me over a year to make a decision). But alas, the arrival of my new Central Overland decals made everything line up the way I liked.

1-XL.jpg


2-XL.jpg


I also got my clevis' back from the powdercoater. :) The paint was chipping off, which told me they were originally painted—not coated.

1208146635_dnpTE-XL.jpg
 
Last edited:

Derek24

Explorer
I love the older Tacoma's, and yours is just icing on the cake! I know you've probably mentioned this, but did you line-x your flares? Looks great!
 

southpier

Expedition Leader
two questions on this fine build:

was the frame drilled for the tow hooks - or holes existing?

(and link to hooks please)

should the shackles be shimmed if their attachment points are narrower than the length of the screw?

thanks
 

RSB

Adventurer
I love the older Tacoma's, and yours is just icing on the cake! I know you've probably mentioned this, but did you line-x your flares? Looks great!

Haha thanks! Yes, the fenders were coated in Line-X (Xtra). They're holding-up for the most part, but the front passenger fender has taken some water ingress. Will need to get it re-done sometime.
 
Last edited:

Derek24

Explorer
haha thank-you! Yes, the fenders are coated in Line-X (Xtra). They're holding-up for the most part, but the front pass fender has taken some water ingress. Will need to get it re-done sometime. Regardless though, definitely worth doing it again!

Ahh nice! Thanks for the response. I'm looking at doing that for my Tundra, they are a little faded and I would rather Line-x then just paint them. I'll look into it, thanks again and nice truck!:victory:
 
N

NorCalBorn

Guest
*O/T: RYAN, I keep forgettgin the name of that security plug you're running on the lower left side of the dash below your steering wheel..little help reminding me since we're looking at adding some secondary stuff to our build? :victory:

Edit: Found it http://www.ravelco.com/
 
Last edited by a moderator:

RSB

Adventurer
two questions on this fine build:

was the frame drilled for the tow hooks - or holes existing?

(and link to hooks please)

should the shackles be shimmed if their attachment points are narrower than the length of the screw?

thanks

The hooks were installed using the pre-existing holes from the stock bumper and are the same holes that secure the mounting brackets of the ARB to the frame. Very simple to do, just needed to extend the length of the bolts (grade-8, of course). You can pick these hooks up at your local AutoZone store. Be advised they're only rated for 10,000lbs. With my Warn M8000, I won't be using them for anything other than static pulls, unless my surface & gradient resistance permits the occasional kinetic pull.

I think adding shims would help with giving the clevis a better fit. But the way I think of it, ensuring the recovery point fills the gap between the eyes of a clevis takes full advantage of using the space for maximum load capacity. Anything less (for a 3/4in clevis—the minimum size I assume is the standard for use with the pulling power of a Warn M8000 or similar), I begin to doubt if the recovery point is sufficiently rated for the load (definitely for kinetic pulls).
 
Last edited:

Cruzin90

New member
Not really. The LINE-X is sealed with LINE-X Xtra and it's much easier to clean. There's a new LINE-X product called Premium that can go on top of the Xtra which would make it even easier to clean. This truck has Xtra but not Premium. Now, standard LINE-X...that would be more difficult to keep clean.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Not really. The LINE-X is sealed with LINE-X Xtra and it's much easier to clean. There's a new LINE-X product called Premium that can go on top of the Xtra which would make it even easier to clean. This truck has Xtra but not Premium. Now, standard LINE-X...that would be more difficult to keep clean.

Humm..I would think that it would require scrubbing to get dirt and stains out of the rough texture.. where as my paint it just washes off. Still really cook though.
 

Cruzin90

New member
Here's another picture, this is LINE-X with Xtra and clear Premium. There's more light, so maybe you can see the texture better. This coating is 100% waterproof.

PremXtra1.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,712
Messages
2,909,420
Members
230,892
Latest member
jesus m anderson
Top