RTW IN A CANTER

[whatcharterboat]

The challenge we face is building a truck to be pretty much all things to all people in all climates.

It has to be a pop-top for containerization.

While pvc walls would be fine for milder climates, the feedback says they don't work well in the extreme cold. Solid walls would appear to solve that problem while being workable in hot, humid weather with the addition of ample windows.

As for lack of overhead storage, aren't all pop-tops the same in that regard.

Obviously, I need to find-out a lot more about this roof, but I'm somewhat reassured that Unicat use it and claim it to be "expedition proven and maintenance free".

I can see the sealing being a challenge, but not insurmountable, and as I said, Unicat continue to use the system.

While I admire Gait's solution (a great piece of lateral thinking)' I'm looking for something which still leaves us with a low roofline for daily travelling.

The rear door just happened to be part of the photo ... we'd be having the door on the LHS (it's a legal requirement).

As to the crawl through, I've been told they're also mandatory if you intend
having anyone travel in the back, which we hope to do if/when grandchildren
eventuate.

Can anyone explain to me how the four folding sections on these roofs lay on each other? It appears to two long sides fold-down first, with the two short ends laying on them. But that makes for double thickness at the short ends,
so how does the hinging system work?

Hi Gus,

Yep.....I admire Gait's lateral thinking too. That's a great home build....probably one of he lightest things around too.

Re the hinging.....I am only guessing that the hinges at the ends are at a higher level than the sides.

A late friend of mine once built a slideon for his F150 ....... Same principle as an Avan but years earlier........that would be a design worth considering too wouldn't it? ....... To achieve your goal here I suppose.

Regards John

 

[SkiFreak]

Gus, Have you considered something like the Innovan?
I am pretty sure that you could setup a Canter to fit one of those modules on the back.

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

Gus,
I am midway through a build on an Isuzu NPS300. My original design was the 'shoebox lid' style driven up and down by electric linear actuators. The sealing issues both while travelling (dust etc) and heat & cold whilst deployed are doable with some careful design and construction.

The overhead storage limitation was the major criticism which lead us to move to a solid wall approach. We have done our overseas expedition type travel and so the container need is not an issue but the travelling height still worries me as we tend to go into more remote areas.

I agree that the need to fit into a container is rare, typically at the beginning and end of a longish trip and having simple jacks that can be temporarily attached on the outside, raising the top and then allowing panels to be removed is an elegant solution. It is simple but does mean that the travel height is sill and issue.

I considered the canvas pop top design for a while - simple, relatively cheap and good for ventilation in warm climates. I also though it was relatively easy to have solid panels to slot in when the conditions required. This hybrid has the advantage that the inside is not exposed during deployment but could be tedious if moving every day.

My current plan is for solid walls but I still have moments when I revert back to the shoebox with the major overlap in the above bench window section which would still allow some overhead storage for light items. Simplicity of construction means rigid walls - shoebox means better functionality. My increasing age and reduced capacities will probably determine the outcome for this self build. I have soon to commit as the subframe is done.
cheers

 

[gus]

Yeah fellas, have looked at the A-van and Innovan, but they just don't seem as suitable to me as the Unicat solution.

Does anyone have any info on the construction details of that unit? Or would it be better to post a new thread under another heading, or even on another forum, if that might ellicit some European input?

Do you get the impression I'm keen on the Unicat approach? So far, I can't see a downside to it that wouldn't be preferable to the compromises that come with soft-sided pop-tops.

Having the pop-top rise a uniform amount all-round would be best for us, especially as my wife wants to include sleeping space for two grand kids above our bed.

Whatcharterboat, could you confirm for me the maximum external box length on a 649 MWB from rear of cab to end of chassis, with one of ATW's crawl throughs fitted.

 

[selfy]

max overhang is 60% of the wheelbase
overhang is from the center of the rear axle to the most rear point including any rear wheel carriers or racks

another point you can't have more beds than you have seats in a motorhome
door can be on the left or rear but must open outwards
there is no rule on the "crawl thru"
this is the info I was given last week by my engineer (I'm in western australia)

 

[whatcharterboat]

Whatcharterboat, could you confirm for me the maximum external box length on a 649 MWB from rear of cab to end of chassis, with one of ATW's crawl throughs fitted.

Hi Gus. How are you mate?

Yeah. If your're doing up some rough floor plans/ concepts , it should be close enough to 4700mm for the external length of the box by itself.. That's plus the gap to the cab at the front ....and hanging over the chassis by whatever at the rear.....observing the 60% rule and based on a standard MWB Canter. I could work it out to the mm tomorrow if you want to know exactly. Regards John.

 

[SkiFreak]

.....observing the 69% rule and based on a standard MWB Canter

Did you mean 60% John?

 

[gait]

thanks for the nice thoughts guys. Greetings from Kazakhstan! Brain dead after 12 days of the roughest roads we've encountered so far - 120 km/day, mostly at 20 -30 km/hr.

I called it a "drop top".

There's just been a couple of times I've been embarassed by the height. Almost first time out, stuck avoiding a leaning tree. And I'm sure it adds to the sideways movement while on rough roads, moguls are horrible.

The height difference between up and down is 800mm.

The problem I didn't have time to resolve for a solid pop-top was the windows. Important bit for hot climates (like Oz) is ventilation, ventilation and more ventilation. So windows needed to be big and open, with fly screens and double glazed because one of the important bit for cold climates is insulation. Tinted as too many is too bright. Then have them 23mm (foam panel thickness) flush fitting both sides.

I'm sure its doable! Probably hinges top, locks bottom, fly screen retractable to the side (only need to be drawn when window open).

The bed lift would be modified a bit. No reason it can't be suspended from the roof and move with it for drop/pop and be lowered seperately for sleeping - I enjoy the space.

I didn't see seals as a problem ... I'll have to think about how to explain that.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Did you mean 60% John?

Hahaha......yeah 60%.

 

[gus]

Thanks for the feedback whatcharterboat, but that length seems like the maximum legally allowed on the Canter chassis.

From the info blackduck sent me, I think a 4700mm camper equates to around 550mm of overhang.

What I really want to do is build as small and light as practicable while still accommodating our needs for a live-in ‘mobile home’.

So, I’m looking for the external box length from the rear of the cab just to the end of the chassis, after allowing whatever’s required for a crawl-through.

I’d really like the camper to be no longer than the chassis, but only when I find-out the box length can I work-out if any overhang needs to be considered.

By the way, can anyone explain to me the operation of this window set-up, which seems like a great security idea and a shade awning:



I can’t figure-out how you secure the spring-loaded bolts on the outside awning, AFTER you’ve closed the top hung window from the inside.

Not sure, but the image is of an OKA, possibly the one owned by Susi & Rucci.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Thanks for the feedback whatcharterboat, but that length seems like the maximum legally allowed on the Canter chassis.

From the info blackduck sent me, I think a 4700mm camper equates to around 550mm of overhang.


So, I'm looking for the external box length from the rear of the cab just to the end of the chassis, after allowing whatever's required for a crawl-through.

I'd really like the camper to be no longer than the chassis, but only when I find-out the box length can I work-out if any overhang needs to be considered.

Hi Gus.....so that we are on the same page.....the term "overhang" has nothing to do with how far the body overhangs the end of the chassis . It is the distance from a plumbline through the rear axle centre to a plumbline at the rear extremity of any fixture or bodywork. Right??? I'll get you a distance tomorrow from front of body (with room to cab for a passthrough) to the rear of a Canter chassis ...... But really, the end of the chassis shouldn't be a determining factor. That rear chassis section behind the rear suspension hanger can be bobbed (eg. for better departure angle) or extended (eg. for a tow bar) to whatever is required ......within the 60% rule of course.

Regards
John.

 

[whatcharterboat]

By the way, can anyone explain to me the operation of this window set-up, which seems like a great security idea and a shade awning:

View attachment 177163

I can't figure-out how you secure the spring-loaded bolts on the outside awning, AFTER you've closed the top hung window from the inside.

Not sure, but the image is of an OKA, possibly the one owned by Susi & Rucci.

Surely the whole black window frame hinges inwards too to lock the shutter. Seems like a hassle. Is that hole in the security shutter a peephole?? They might have been better to invest in a fly screen!!!

 

[gus]

Sorry about any confusion whatcharterboat.

Yeah, I know the technical meaning of ‘rear overhang’ … just got caught-up discussing how much the camper box might hang out the back.

Trying hard to make our practical living requirements fit within the existing chassis length.

Unless it’s absolutely unavoidable, I certainly don’t want to add to what’s already almost five feet swinging out behind the back axle.

As to the window with awning, I hadn’t thought about the window itself hinging inwards.

It’s good for security and preventing bush pinstriping on acrylic windows, but as you say there would be some hassle to it.

I agree the hole is probably a peephole, but where’s the other one for the machinegun?

 

[gus]

Just a follow-up query to whatcharterboat.

Have you had a chance yet to get that box length measurement we'd been discussing?

 

[whatcharterboat]

Just a follow-up query to whatcharterboat.

Have you had a chance yet to get that box length measurement we'd been discussing?

Hi Gus, sorry mate...completely forgot. I'm in Sydney at the moment setting up for a show but have three vehicles here with me ....one is a new Canter so if I can borrow a tape, I'll measure from the front of the body (as it sits on the Fuso chassis with allowance for our passthrough) to the rear axle ... Then you can work out your own overhang ....that's what you're after aren't you?

Again sorry.

Regards John.