Sankey trailer appeal
- Thread starter overlander
- Start date
crusader
Adventurer
Once you get rolling, I expect that you would get more ACTUAL (not indicated) miles per gallon using larger diameter wheels than stock wheels. All bets are off once you leave the pavement, though!
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
No. In fact, I heckle those idiots whenever I encounter them at trade shows.
Wow.
First, the factory rating is 12 City, 18 Highway. The milage I'm reporting is highway milage. Second, go back and read what I wrote, as I said I got a best of 18.5 when stock.
Lastly, my tires are only 8% taller than stock, so not very big, and directionally larger diameter makes the effective gearing more favorable anyway. They are also 245's, vs. stock 255's. And they're LT-E's running 45psi vs. 35psi stock so less rolling resistance. Lifting a high clearance truck doesn't affect milage as much as you'd think, because you aren't actually increasing the frontal area that much, since much of the air just goes under the truck anyway.
At the end of the day after all the pluses and minuses, with my mods I only lost a small amount of milage compared to stock. And then towing a heavy trailer doesn't take too many MPG's compared to the surprisingly big effect of putting monkey bars on your roof.
benlittle
Adventurer
Monkey bars? You're diminishing the look of an SD? Have you seen your trailer lately?
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I'm making no such judgement. Unlike you, I don't feel it's my place to criticize people on aesthetics. It's merely a tongue-in-cheek statement about having a large tube structure on the roof.
In fact I quite like the appearance of the roof racks. I don't, however, think it's the best solution of the problem of where to put your stuff.
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I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
What's this thread about again??????????
UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
You guys are killin' me.
I just found the Military vehicle guy in Minnesota - www.midwestmil.com - he's got M100 / 101 / 416 parts up there...almost in my neighborhood.
Yeah, I need another project
I just found the Military vehicle guy in Minnesota - www.midwestmil.com - he's got M100 / 101 / 416 parts up there...almost in my neighborhood.
Yeah, I need another project
cobb ridge
Observer
i found one. now i need a nato hitch. does anyone have a good source for a hitch?
crusader
Adventurer
Not Sankeys, but I see there are several M416 trailers up for auction in Rhode Island and in Maine on the GSA auction website (use the "search by state" box in the upper right corner). Auctions end on 11/27/09
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Any local farm supply store probably has a non-rotating pintle that will plug into a reciever. Not the best solution, but could work.
Actually, if this is a Sankey, I think you need a rotating pintle. Dixon-Bate makes them.
cobb ridge
Observer
where can i buy one? i cannot find one to buy.
TeriAnn
Explorer
Anyone with hands on experience with sankeys care to speculate as to how hard it might be to detach the body from the frame and replace it with a Series LR rear body section?
I would imagine that a sankey with bad body but good frame & suspension would not be very expensive and that a Series rear body section would be lighter weight.
Just wondering.
Happy Thanksgiving to the Americans :eatchicke
I would imagine that a sankey with bad body but good frame & suspension would not be very expensive and that a Series rear body section would be lighter weight.
Just wondering.
Happy Thanksgiving to the Americans :eatchicke
Maryland 110
Adventurer
Sankey tub removal is easy- @ least on the early style "narrow" 3/4 ton models. The tub is held to the frame with 10 or so "J" shaped bolts. Simply loosten the nut and the bolt slips right out of the bracket. Had my tub off in 45 mins. As far as the hitches go- on the early sankey "narrow's" with mechanical brakes,the pintle itself rotates like the m416 etc. The later "wides" with the really neat disc brakes require a rotating hitch on the truck side. I can't comment on how easy it would be to put a series tub on one. My plan is to weld new metal into the tub and when its all patched up nicely have the tub galvanized. Once the tub is squared away I plan to narrow and shorten a series 88 roof to make a lid for the tub and fit a rtt to the lid. Hope to have this together in time to drag it to Moab for next years Natl. Rally. "God willin and the crick don rise"
Maryland 110
Adventurer
Guess its not hard to put a Series or Defender body tub on. Given the width and dish of the wheels this looks to be on an early "narrow track" chassis with mechanical drum brakes (you can see the actuator rod in the pictures).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230405716714&_trkparms=tab=Watching
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230405716714&_trkparms=tab=Watching
is that a bed frame on that?:Wow1:
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