Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Yes. I don't know if you could specify a different brand of axle or not.
Scott B.'s Little Guy Offroad Teardrop Build
- Thread starter Scott B.
- Start date
Yes. I don't know if you could specify a different brand of axle or not.
Yulli
Yulli the Yeti
That's fine. At least you have the option to change it up a bit.
Thanks for the help.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Tongue Jack
I added a BullDog jack to the tongue.
I had to move it back from the coupler to allow the swing-out on the truck to open.
Here is before paint (I ground the weld down some - I didn't go overboard.)
And after paint. Looks almost factory!
I have some plans for the tongue area, and will repaint the entire section once all the mods are complete.
I added a BullDog jack to the tongue.
I had to move it back from the coupler to allow the swing-out on the truck to open.
Here is before paint (I ground the weld down some - I didn't go overboard.)
And after paint. Looks almost factory!
I have some plans for the tongue area, and will repaint the entire section once all the mods are complete.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Backup lights
I added some back-up lights to the teardrop. These should make backing up at night (either into a campsite or down my driveway) a little easier.
The plan if for these to be wired to the reverse circuit of the 7-pin connector, only coming on when in reverse. (I don't think I need them any other time.)
Before:
During:
After:
I still have the trim rings to install.
Next, it's time to move the license plate up and out of the way.
I added some back-up lights to the teardrop. These should make backing up at night (either into a campsite or down my driveway) a little easier.
The plan if for these to be wired to the reverse circuit of the 7-pin connector, only coming on when in reverse. (I don't think I need them any other time.)
Before:
During:
After:
I still have the trim rings to install.
Next, it's time to move the license plate up and out of the way.
Looking good Scott!
Little Guy must be getting used to the offroad/Expo Market. I called my local dealer and asked for a quote on the "Scott B" Model and they got back to me the next day with a quote for the "Off Road Silver Shadow", even asking if I wanted Jerry Can brackets.
Little Guy must be getting used to the offroad/Expo Market. I called my local dealer and asked for a quote on the "Scott B" Model and they got back to me the next day with a quote for the "Off Road Silver Shadow", even asking if I wanted Jerry Can brackets.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Lengthen Safety Chains
Between the MaxCoupler and Ekhart receiver hitch (SoCal folks will know what I mean) the safety chains were a couple of inches too short.
I cut the hooks off, welded some figure "8" links to the hooks and some spare chain, and used a couple of screw chain links to put everything back together.
Between the MaxCoupler and Ekhart receiver hitch (SoCal folks will know what I mean) the safety chains were a couple of inches too short.
I cut the hooks off, welded some figure "8" links to the hooks and some spare chain, and used a couple of screw chain links to put everything back together.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
We took a 1500 mile, 6-state trip 2 weeks ago. We slept in the TD 6 nights in a row! It never got too small - was very warm and comfortable. I need to build out the kitchen - we stayed in NP and state campgrounds, so we had picnic tables to use. But, in more primitive conditions, the kitchen will be nice to have.
I will write up trip report. In the meantime, here are a couple of "action" shots.
And one at camp in Cumberland Gap NP.
I will write up trip report. In the meantime, here are a couple of "action" shots.
And one at camp in Cumberland Gap NP.
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Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
I normally run about 28 PSI in the tires. In that situation, I wasn't going very fast, so the trailer didn't bounce very much. (I also didn't air down the truck tires.)
My plan is to air down the trailer tires when I air down the truck tires - I will probably drop the pressure to 12 - 15 PSI to control the bouncing.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Getting ready for kitchen build
I have started to gather items for the kitchen.
First, a new stove.
This one is the wide 2-burner. We opted for the wide model (wider burner spacing) to make it easier to cook with 2 real pots/pans (as opposed to camping ones.) We like cooking with cast iron, so this heavy-duty stove should work just fine.
The propane adapter is there because I am planning on using 1 lb propane cylinders rather than a 5/10/20 pounder. I have had good success refilling the 1 lb-ers, so this negates the extra cost.
Next, fancy on-board water.
In keeping with idea of building this TD to be as light as possible, (and, there is no on-board power) I didn't want to use an electric pump for water. I opted for a manually operated marine pump. This thing is slick and smooth - no effort required to pump water. As I have seen on another thread, I will mount the pump into the water can lid. I am using a 10L can because a 20L can will not fit in the kitchen space.
Lastly - well, it speaks for itself.
We went to Lynchburg over Memorial Day weekend.
I have started to gather items for the kitchen.
First, a new stove.
This one is the wide 2-burner. We opted for the wide model (wider burner spacing) to make it easier to cook with 2 real pots/pans (as opposed to camping ones.) We like cooking with cast iron, so this heavy-duty stove should work just fine.
The propane adapter is there because I am planning on using 1 lb propane cylinders rather than a 5/10/20 pounder. I have had good success refilling the 1 lb-ers, so this negates the extra cost.
Next, fancy on-board water.
In keeping with idea of building this TD to be as light as possible, (and, there is no on-board power) I didn't want to use an electric pump for water. I opted for a manually operated marine pump. This thing is slick and smooth - no effort required to pump water. As I have seen on another thread, I will mount the pump into the water can lid. I am using a 10L can because a 20L can will not fit in the kitchen space.
Lastly - well, it speaks for itself.
We went to Lynchburg over Memorial Day weekend.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Start of Kitchen Build
We've slept in the teardrop a total of 9 nights, and have cooked many meals utilizing the unfinished kitchen. We have developed a plan as to how we would things to be arranged, and it's time to start.
The kitchen as delivered:
The Plan
Ideally, we would like to keep the counter free of permanently mounted items. It is a very nice work surface, and quite roomy.
The storage area will contain 2 columns of drawers. The left side will have the stove (on a pull-out/swing-out shelf - I have a really cool idea, I hope it works!) and a drawer. There will be either an open area or a small drawer above the stove. (Not what we want, but due to the depth of the stove, and the shallowness of the space, the stove will be mounted several inches lower than we want.) The right side will have 2 or 3 drawers - not finalized yet. Also, to the right of the drawer columns will be a storage slot for the water can.
Small items will go in the shelf compartment above the countertop. We have some ideas for a storage system - to be built after the drawers.
The Build
I need flat, vertical sides to mount the drawer slides to. As the TD sits, I do not have any. From the center divider, I removed the trim strip. This gives me flat surfaces to mount the drawer slides.
I need to extend that piece to the tailgate.
Also, the sides are not flush with the tailgate opening. Here, I need to build and fit a vertical "wall".
I made some templates, glued a piece of poplar to 1/2" birch plywood, and cut to fit.
I didn't get a picture of the wall panel with the curve cut - I will post one tomorrow.
I chose to add the poplar to the plywood for appearance. I opted to hide the end grain.
We've slept in the teardrop a total of 9 nights, and have cooked many meals utilizing the unfinished kitchen. We have developed a plan as to how we would things to be arranged, and it's time to start.
The kitchen as delivered:
The Plan
Ideally, we would like to keep the counter free of permanently mounted items. It is a very nice work surface, and quite roomy.
The storage area will contain 2 columns of drawers. The left side will have the stove (on a pull-out/swing-out shelf - I have a really cool idea, I hope it works!) and a drawer. There will be either an open area or a small drawer above the stove. (Not what we want, but due to the depth of the stove, and the shallowness of the space, the stove will be mounted several inches lower than we want.) The right side will have 2 or 3 drawers - not finalized yet. Also, to the right of the drawer columns will be a storage slot for the water can.
Small items will go in the shelf compartment above the countertop. We have some ideas for a storage system - to be built after the drawers.
The Build
I need flat, vertical sides to mount the drawer slides to. As the TD sits, I do not have any. From the center divider, I removed the trim strip. This gives me flat surfaces to mount the drawer slides.
I need to extend that piece to the tailgate.
Also, the sides are not flush with the tailgate opening. Here, I need to build and fit a vertical "wall".
I made some templates, glued a piece of poplar to 1/2" birch plywood, and cut to fit.
I didn't get a picture of the wall panel with the curve cut - I will post one tomorrow.
I chose to add the poplar to the plywood for appearance. I opted to hide the end grain.