Scoutkid's van is HERE!!!
- Thread starter scoutkid
- Start date
scoutkid
Van Builder
Both good ideas, where is this 'door', is it the one in the passenger side footwell? Any way to test?
bknudtsen
Expedition Leader
The blend door is inside the HVAC plenum. Sometimes you can hear it hang up when your spin the dial from hot to cold. A totally broken door would cause it too stay hot or cold regardless of the temperature setting. If the temp changes and you don't hear anything hanging up/clicking/cracking in the plenum, then the blend door is most likely functioning fine.
I was repairing a fuel leak on mine yesterday (fuel restriction switch) and noticed a good bit of gunk built up in my intake as well, wasnt sure if this was normal and was a bit concerned. especially after starting it and letting it run for a min while checking to make sure my fuel leak was fixed. The CCV almost immediatly after start up started pumping a decent bit of smoke, enough to see anyway....Im guessing this is normal?
scoutkid
Van Builder
Got the front painted up just before last weeks snow 'storm'. I snapped a few not-so-good pictures.
Also, as I said before I replaced the heater motor resistor, the battery under the van and most importantly, the STARTER.
I have had many 7.3l's in the past, and unless you have good batteries, good glow plugs, good glow plug relay AND a good starter, you have no shot at making it through the winter without constantly plugging the beast in.
My starter 'worked', but was very, very sluggish, even after the new battery. I knew ski season was here so I bit the bullet on a new motorcraft unit, and it now turns over so fast it almost screams! :sombrero: Cold start issues are a thing of the past!
Also, as I said before I replaced the heater motor resistor, the battery under the van and most importantly, the STARTER.
I have had many 7.3l's in the past, and unless you have good batteries, good glow plugs, good glow plug relay AND a good starter, you have no shot at making it through the winter without constantly plugging the beast in.
My starter 'worked', but was very, very sluggish, even after the new battery. I knew ski season was here so I bit the bullet on a new motorcraft unit, and it now turns over so fast it almost screams! :sombrero: Cold start issues are a thing of the past!
ben2go
Adventurer
scoutkid
Van Builder
The End of Days. And Leaks.
So a few weeks ago I ordered a pair of HPOP reseal kits, as well as complete oring sets for 2 fuel bowls. Why two? Because I am a man with a plan, that's why. I noticed I had a small oil leak in my F-350, and obviously the van still leaks like racehorse. My thought was to pull the fuel bowl and HPOP from the F350, get them nice and resealed, then pull the ones out of the van and have the fresh set ready to go in.
It was cold and I didn't take any pictures of removing the F350 parts (plus there are already a million of those pics on the web), but here sits the nice and clean and properly sealed fuel bowl.
Another reason I did the truck first was that I could use it as a practice run, understand which tools worked best, and where certain things are, like the darn HPOP bolts that are totally blind. The more you know....
Here is the truck HPOP. I did the full monty reseal. Which included the sensor orings, the HPOP hose fitting orings, the rear plug oring and the ever popular 'non-serviceable' plug oring. Turns out the make a kit for this (www.dieselorings.com). I have already re-ringed the van HPOP without replacing the orings on the sensor or the non-serviceable plug if you remember. Even on this truck HPOP marked REMAN, one of the hose ports was leaking, and the NS plug. So I am going to say that elusive van leak is going to be remedied in short order.
HPOP all cleaned up!
So a few weeks ago I ordered a pair of HPOP reseal kits, as well as complete oring sets for 2 fuel bowls. Why two? Because I am a man with a plan, that's why. I noticed I had a small oil leak in my F-350, and obviously the van still leaks like racehorse. My thought was to pull the fuel bowl and HPOP from the F350, get them nice and resealed, then pull the ones out of the van and have the fresh set ready to go in.
It was cold and I didn't take any pictures of removing the F350 parts (plus there are already a million of those pics on the web), but here sits the nice and clean and properly sealed fuel bowl.
Another reason I did the truck first was that I could use it as a practice run, understand which tools worked best, and where certain things are, like the darn HPOP bolts that are totally blind. The more you know....
Here is the truck HPOP. I did the full monty reseal. Which included the sensor orings, the HPOP hose fitting orings, the rear plug oring and the ever popular 'non-serviceable' plug oring. Turns out the make a kit for this (www.dieselorings.com). I have already re-ringed the van HPOP without replacing the orings on the sensor or the non-serviceable plug if you remember. Even on this truck HPOP marked REMAN, one of the hose ports was leaking, and the NS plug. So I am going to say that elusive van leak is going to be remedied in short order.
HPOP all cleaned up!
scoutkid
Van Builder
Problem: Inserted newly resealed HPOP from the F350 into Vantom along with the fuel bowl. Got everything buttoned up, no start...
It's looking like the HPOP was on it's last lets. I am getting LOP on the dash gauge even with the ICP unplugged. That indicates the LOLP working, but the HPOP not generating the required pressure to activate the fuel system.... I definitely have fuel pressure, I have oil in the HPOP reservoir and oil pan.
Damnit....
Now I have to pull everything back out - not sure if you know how much of a pain that is on these vans, but isn't just a quick in and out...
It's looking like the HPOP was on it's last lets. I am getting LOP on the dash gauge even with the ICP unplugged. That indicates the LOLP working, but the HPOP not generating the required pressure to activate the fuel system.... I definitely have fuel pressure, I have oil in the HPOP reservoir and oil pan.
Damnit....
Now I have to pull everything back out - not sure if you know how much of a pain that is on these vans, but isn't just a quick in and out...
scoutkid
Van Builder
LONNNNNGGGGGG story short: Both Vantom and his F350 brother are back on their feet. Both with resealed HPOP's and fuel bowls.
What did it cost me? Around 50 hours of my time, mostly spent on the Van and trying to figure out why the hell it wouldn't start. I had the fuel bowl and HPOP in and out around 5 times. It cost me a new EDGE CTS (programmer/scanner!) since I desperately needed to do some diagnostics, and the CTS does both Scan work and performance... well, you know how my wallet seems to work by now!
And last but not least, a new IPR (injection pressure regulator) for nearly $300. No idea why the old one went bad all the sudden, but a last ditch effort to replace the IPR made Vantom happy.
Now, I have just played with the programmer at stock, tow and race settings. The tow will be just about right for getting Vantom's tubby *** up the mountains week in and week out. The race was pretty cool, gets that almost full time locomotive exhaust plume going. I don't even know if I want to touch the extreme setting!
So, what was supposed to be a day or two of cleaning and resealing came out as a week and a half of working outside in 20 deg F weather and tearing most of the flesh from my hands under the hood of the van.
Also noteworthy, I recently purchased a 'Big Buddy' propane indoor heater and will be using it tomorrow AM skiing, I will report back on how it works.
What did it cost me? Around 50 hours of my time, mostly spent on the Van and trying to figure out why the hell it wouldn't start. I had the fuel bowl and HPOP in and out around 5 times. It cost me a new EDGE CTS (programmer/scanner!) since I desperately needed to do some diagnostics, and the CTS does both Scan work and performance... well, you know how my wallet seems to work by now!
And last but not least, a new IPR (injection pressure regulator) for nearly $300. No idea why the old one went bad all the sudden, but a last ditch effort to replace the IPR made Vantom happy.
Now, I have just played with the programmer at stock, tow and race settings. The tow will be just about right for getting Vantom's tubby *** up the mountains week in and week out. The race was pretty cool, gets that almost full time locomotive exhaust plume going. I don't even know if I want to touch the extreme setting!
So, what was supposed to be a day or two of cleaning and resealing came out as a week and a half of working outside in 20 deg F weather and tearing most of the flesh from my hands under the hood of the van.
Also noteworthy, I recently purchased a 'Big Buddy' propane indoor heater and will be using it tomorrow AM skiing, I will report back on how it works.
scoutkid
Van Builder
I HAVE, THE POWER (CONVERTER)!!
A few weeks ago I picked up this gem at the pick 'n pull. It cost about $20 with 30' of 30 amp power cord:
Gotta have instructions.
Had to test it! Here is my test setup. It has a few 120 breakers (perfect for coffee and microwave!) and a few 12V as well. I'm most excited that I will be able to plug in and charge at: home, campsite, generator...
Off:
On!
It will be charging this guy:
Now the fun is to figure out how I can isolate the house battery, yet charge it and the van batteries with the converter and/or solar. Oh, and make sure I hook up my INverter correctly so that I still have 120 power when I am not plugged in!
A few weeks ago I picked up this gem at the pick 'n pull. It cost about $20 with 30' of 30 amp power cord:
Gotta have instructions.
Had to test it! Here is my test setup. It has a few 120 breakers (perfect for coffee and microwave!) and a few 12V as well. I'm most excited that I will be able to plug in and charge at: home, campsite, generator...
Off:
On!
It will be charging this guy:
Now the fun is to figure out how I can isolate the house battery, yet charge it and the van batteries with the converter and/or solar. Oh, and make sure I hook up my INverter correctly so that I still have 120 power when I am not plugged in!
Abitibi
Explorer
That is a lot of work for such a small part! Good on you to figure it out. For your batteries/charging system have a look at these guys:
http://www.farmtronics.com/
I got from them a 15 amps 24v-12v converter that alloys me to charge my house battery while insulating the starting batteries (product# E49053). Your application is slightly different but they should have something for you. I've tried a few other system in the past which never performed as good as these units.
Cheers
Mr. D
Nice bumper btw!
http://www.farmtronics.com/
I got from them a 15 amps 24v-12v converter that alloys me to charge my house battery while insulating the starting batteries (product# E49053). Your application is slightly different but they should have something for you. I've tried a few other system in the past which never performed as good as these units.
Cheers
Mr. D
Nice bumper btw!
Batter isolaters and axles
Hey Scoutkid,
You are a nut case and I mean that in the nicest possible way!
I just read your whole report and am impressed with your work and especially your seeming ability to work 24-7!
My project has been a 2000 E350 7.3 EB. Over the last 3-4 years I built a marine quality, westfail-ya style interior layout and had sports mobile install their lifting top.
I used one of these guys solid state isolators with a pr. of 6v golf cart batteries mounted just aft of the rear axle:
http://www.hellroaring.com/ Really helpful guys from montana.... Its been 3 yrs and going strong. Good bang for the buck with the golf cart batteries.
My next step is 4x4 conversion. I have a quote going with Chris (thanks Chris!) and have been searching southern Idaho for a front axle and xfer case.
I'm curious if you overhauled your axles before install? How many miles were on them? Does anybody know how long the fronts can be expected to last before requiring bearings etc? I've found a good deal on a Dana 60 front but its got 150Kmi on it. If its going to need outer bearings (unit bearings) these are spendy and a good deal is not such a good deal anymore.....
Also - why did you replace your rear axle? Was it not a full floater?
Thanks and good luck with the rest of your amazing project!
AT
Hey Scoutkid,
You are a nut case and I mean that in the nicest possible way!
I just read your whole report and am impressed with your work and especially your seeming ability to work 24-7!
My project has been a 2000 E350 7.3 EB. Over the last 3-4 years I built a marine quality, westfail-ya style interior layout and had sports mobile install their lifting top.
I used one of these guys solid state isolators with a pr. of 6v golf cart batteries mounted just aft of the rear axle:
http://www.hellroaring.com/ Really helpful guys from montana.... Its been 3 yrs and going strong. Good bang for the buck with the golf cart batteries.
My next step is 4x4 conversion. I have a quote going with Chris (thanks Chris!) and have been searching southern Idaho for a front axle and xfer case.
I'm curious if you overhauled your axles before install? How many miles were on them? Does anybody know how long the fronts can be expected to last before requiring bearings etc? I've found a good deal on a Dana 60 front but its got 150Kmi on it. If its going to need outer bearings (unit bearings) these are spendy and a good deal is not such a good deal anymore.....
Also - why did you replace your rear axle? Was it not a full floater?
Thanks and good luck with the rest of your amazing project!
AT
Solar charge controllers make fine battery isolators. Charge the house batteries when the engine is running, won't backfeed, limit current so you can downsize your interconnect wires (still need welding cables if you want to self-jump), smart charge, and isolate so you can have multiple charging methods running at the same time.
scoutkid
Van Builder
You mistake me for someone who likes to spend a lot of $ and do things the easy way :sombrero: But cool site for future refernce!
Thanks for the kind words! I didn't have to overhaul these axles, the lube looked clean and the ball joints were tight (though it seems now my drivers side may be going out...) I think my axles had about 80k miles on them, no idea what maint had or had not been done. I just assumed once the stock parts failed I would upgrade along the way.
The rear axle was not a full floater, and was the old bolt pattern. I'd have had to get an adapter. Easier just to drop in a matching axle. Plus, the rears are so cheap that usually you get the front and rear for almost the same price as a front alone!
VERY interesting, that might help me out quick a bit. Can you tell me how that would look in my little drawing here?
