Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
Got your best non-permanent methods for attaching a semi-flex panel to an aluminum frame? Datasheet says I've got six grommet holes per panel - would that be enough, mechanically?
I'm doing a bit of a minor upgrade to the solar on my FWC Hawk - The 160w single panel that came from FWC on our camper has suffered a bit in the years since it was first installed - I can see a lot of discoloration/milkiness on the panel and my monitor tells me that output is down overall. We already had an uprated Overland Solar MPPT controller on hand, and I realized that a pair of Renogy 200w Semi-Flex panels was too-cheap-to-pass-up, so I picked them up and will be mounting the whole arrangement soon. I like the idea of using the semi-flex panels because weight on our pop-up roof is always a thing to avoid, even if maybe the panels aren't as durable as a framed/glass panel.
I'd need a new mounting setup anyhow, but I'm not loving the method that was used for the current panel - only 1/2 aluminum angle butted at the corners in a way that flexes the panel a little. Space is tight to fit these two panels between the roof vents, but I'll be building a double-width "ladder" frame of 1" aluminum tubing to span the Yakima tracks and give me something to attach the panels to. This should ensure good airgap behind, and make for a frame that has good support under the panel and is fairly rigid.
Looking at how other folks have attached the semi-flex panels to their frames, it's usually something like adhesive, VHB tape, etc. to adhere the panel to the frame - I know these methods are secure, but it feels weird to use a method that will basically guarantee that the only way to separate the panel from the frame will be to destroy the panel.
Also, given that the wiring connections from panel to the camper will be under the frame, I'd prefer not to use a method that involves permanently affixing the panels to the frame (since I would have to lift the whole arrangement up in one piece while making the electrical connections). This also means I'd have to add extra bracketry to affix the frame to the Yakima tracks since the panels will cover the perimeter of the frame. (If I can affix the panels to the frame after the frame is mounted, I can simply go through the tubing to bolt it to the tracks.) If the six-grommets (with fender washers, etc.) is not necessarily secure enough, I could add tape around the perimeter after the panels are mounted. (What to use? Gorilla tape? Others have used Eternabond but that stuff is $$ and I don't need a watertight connection to the frame, just backup mechanical security and maybe ensuring airflow doesn't get between the panel and frame and cause lift...
Thoughts?
I'm doing a bit of a minor upgrade to the solar on my FWC Hawk - The 160w single panel that came from FWC on our camper has suffered a bit in the years since it was first installed - I can see a lot of discoloration/milkiness on the panel and my monitor tells me that output is down overall. We already had an uprated Overland Solar MPPT controller on hand, and I realized that a pair of Renogy 200w Semi-Flex panels was too-cheap-to-pass-up, so I picked them up and will be mounting the whole arrangement soon. I like the idea of using the semi-flex panels because weight on our pop-up roof is always a thing to avoid, even if maybe the panels aren't as durable as a framed/glass panel.
I'd need a new mounting setup anyhow, but I'm not loving the method that was used for the current panel - only 1/2 aluminum angle butted at the corners in a way that flexes the panel a little. Space is tight to fit these two panels between the roof vents, but I'll be building a double-width "ladder" frame of 1" aluminum tubing to span the Yakima tracks and give me something to attach the panels to. This should ensure good airgap behind, and make for a frame that has good support under the panel and is fairly rigid.
Looking at how other folks have attached the semi-flex panels to their frames, it's usually something like adhesive, VHB tape, etc. to adhere the panel to the frame - I know these methods are secure, but it feels weird to use a method that will basically guarantee that the only way to separate the panel from the frame will be to destroy the panel.
Also, given that the wiring connections from panel to the camper will be under the frame, I'd prefer not to use a method that involves permanently affixing the panels to the frame (since I would have to lift the whole arrangement up in one piece while making the electrical connections). This also means I'd have to add extra bracketry to affix the frame to the Yakima tracks since the panels will cover the perimeter of the frame. (If I can affix the panels to the frame after the frame is mounted, I can simply go through the tubing to bolt it to the tracks.) If the six-grommets (with fender washers, etc.) is not necessarily secure enough, I could add tape around the perimeter after the panels are mounted. (What to use? Gorilla tape? Others have used Eternabond but that stuff is $$ and I don't need a watertight connection to the frame, just backup mechanical security and maybe ensuring airflow doesn't get between the panel and frame and cause lift...
Thoughts?
