Series Rover guru's, need some help/advice!

[Crazyfish]

I bought a decent 66 109 SW that ran and looked ok. 4 years later and cash, and I've replaced mostly everything. So, next time I'm going to buy one like that, and just go get a frame ( and a ton of other parts ) and start from there, or buy one completely redone ( what ever your version of that is ) I'm right near the end of an 8 week frame swap and clean up.

 

[Clark White]

Well I got a hold of the owner today. He swears hes going to rebuild it and so doesn't want to sell it. Bummed me out a little bit, but oh well, I think I will live However, this has now got me thinking, and I keep drifting my internet time over to the for sale sections of the Rover Forums...thinking of something with a good frame, but otherwise a blank slate that I can do my own thing with. I think if I were to get a Series, I want her to LOOK like a series, but put a modern drive line in her so she will go down the HW a little more comfortably. I would probably keep the interior mostly vintage looking, but maby try to sneak in some hidden AC vents and sound deadening foam on the floors. Any other modern conveniences I should look into? What about the Salisbury axles, would they be a keeper, or replace with something newer? I rather like the idea of the full floating axle, that would be nice.

 

[Michael Slade]

I think if I were to get a Series, I want her to LOOK like a series, but put a modern drive line in her so she will go down the HW a little more comfortably.

Be careful. That line right there speaks of a lot of complexity and a lot of money to be spent. There are a lot here who have gone that route...I have done it twice now. It ain't cheap nor easy.

If you are way comfortable in your fabrication skills or have someone who is that won't take you to the cleaners, then that type of project is within the realm of possibility. If you don't, then find one that's already been built that way. There are a few around the country that come up for sale from time to time.

 

[Clark White]

Be careful. That line right there speaks of a lot of complexity and a lot of money to be spent. There are a lot here who have gone that route...I have done it twice now. It ain't cheap nor easy.

If you are way comfortable in your fabrication skills or have someone who is that won't take you to the cleaners, then that type of project is within the realm of possibility. If you don't, then find one that's already been built that way. There are a few around the country that come up for sale from time to time.

I was sort of worried that would be the case. I'm fairly comfortable in my fabrication skill, but that may be quite the learning experience. How is the original Land Rover drive line for going down the HW (either Interstate, or smaller state HW's?)

 

[ntsqd]

As is usual, the devil is in the details of an engine swap. Someone here recently posted (the Gills trailer build maybe?) that 20% of the fabrication takes 80% of the time. Getting a newer/more powerful/later model engine sitting on mounts in the frame isn't the hard part. The hard part is in all of the detail work. Raising the alternator 3/4" because otherwise it hits the steering box kinds of things.
MercedesRover's build thread is an excellent way to see what is involved in a ground up build/rebuild. Maybe you don't want to go to that level, but it is a great overview.

 

[overlander]

Based on your comments, I would suggest sticking with a series III so you have a synchromesh transmission (no double clutch). First invisible upgrade I would think of is replacing the drum brakes with disc. Then get her restored to a mechanically reliable and visible condition, so you can drive her without breaking down, and build the love affair. I would recommend getting to that point first BEFORE major modifications, so you have a good baseline.

Sound proofing won't be too hard. (You'll have more success with hardtop than soft top, but don't expect Lexus quiet from your results). there's very little difference between a series III bulkhead and mine. I"m in process of soundproofing now (I just have a diesel to deal with). Take a look at the LaSalle http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim website in the UK, if you want a more refined Series interior, as well as Exmoor http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/#1X0for upholstery refreshes. Atlantic British is the only US distributor for Exmoore FYI.

Good luck young paduan learner:ylsmoke:

 

[TeriAnn]

Based on your comments, I would suggest sticking with a series III so you have a synchromesh transmission (no double clutch). First invisible upgrade I would think of is replacing the drum brakes with disc.

Double clutching is not all that hard to learn & you don't need to start out in first gear most of the time.

At least 95% of the Series rigs on the road today have drum brakes all around. Contrary to modern thinking they do manage to stop a vehicle. That said I do consider front disc brakes to be a safety upgrade to 109s. This is because the 109 has two forward shoes on each front wheel. This improves forward stopping but at the cost of stopping in the reverse direction. It is VERY hard to hold a 109 stationary in a steep nose up position without front disc brakes.

I went 28 years without front disc brakes & don't consider them to be an essential upgrade.

If there is a single item that NEEDS upgrading and should be done as a matter of course it is upgrading the rear axle to at least 24 spline. The stock 10 spline axles were fine for the lighter weight Series I but are understrength for a heavier 88 and way understrength for a heavier yet 109. The factory went to the much stronger 24 spline Salisbury under the 109 when they introduced the Series III. A Salisbury is a Dana 60 built under license in the UK.

Then get her restored to a mechanically reliable and visible condition, so you can drive her without breaking down, and build the love affair. I would recommend getting to that point first BEFORE major modifications, so you have a good baseline.

I would put getting the vehicle into good mechanically reliable state as #1 priority unless the vehicle was purchased specifically to be heavily modified with custom drive train & maybe suspension.

Stepping your way completely through the factory maintenance schedule would be a good way to get started. Many people buy a Land Rover and immediately start throwing a bunch of off road accessories & modifications on it. Some work, some don't & many may be a total waste of $$$. UNLESS THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED SPECIFICALLY AS A CUSTOM BUILDUP PROJECT, I SUGGEST GETTING TO KNOW A STOCK LR FIRST. LEARN WHAT IT CAN DO BEFORE ASSUMING IT NEEDS ADD ONS TO DO ANYTHING.

These vehicles can do a lot in factory trim without add ons. Learn the vehicle limits, THEN decide what if any of the limits you wish to exceed. Then address those specific limits that you wish to extend.

Never underestimate where an experienced Series Land Rover driver can take a stock Series Land Rover.

 

[EricWS]

No need to pigeon hole yourself into a specific model year. Most of the Series three stuff will swap into the earlier series two trucks without much complaint. Disc brakes are nice and Timm Coopers' are now available again from RN. But oh so pricey. . . Think the dual circuit before the discs as they are a safety improvement over the single lines.

If you have your heart set on a series truck you'll need to research it's idiosyncracies and either live with them or get a vehicle better suited to your needs. HW travel isn't a strong suit for any stock series and 109s in particular.

I sold my 90 and bought Afi Rover's 1959 that is in the "post a pic of your rover" thread. But I spent years looking for a viable candidate. Years. There is a lot of junk out there. If your not careful you can mistakenly get a huge project that will drain you. Be smart and be patient and you can have one that drives and won't need a ton of work. Trust me. Series are usually third or fourth cars and can be severly neglected. If you had to replace all the parts of a major system it can add up real quick.

If your looking for a series truck, Ike at Pangolin4x4.com always finds really nice trucks. They aren't always the cheapest, but you definietly are getting what you pay for. I would check out his web site to see what he has done. There is an Iron Duke four cylinder resto that he did that gets goo HW speed. The owner of that truck had it for sale at around low thirties at one point. I was almost tempted to drive down to Indy and tet drive it at one point but I really wanted a blank canvass.

EwS

 

[61rover]

Series Trucks

Okay, I'll pipe in. As someone that took a Series II that was WAY far gone and completely restored it, it has to be a labor of love. The passion has to be there. If I had it to do over, I would have started with a truck with less problems. But there is an enormous amount of satisfaction in taking a truck that is destined to be parted out and making it new again.

I recommend either a IIA or a III. Parts are more difficult for the Is and IIs. Stay away from engine swaps. A good 2.25 that is tuned and well maintained will pull a Series around at a nice clip. If you want morepower, look for a Stage III V8 or get a Defender.

Just my 2 cents.