Great, I will jack it up this weekend to finish alignment, break adjustment and such. I had a hiccup when testing the lights. A few wire were degraded and no longly conduct electricity. I had to re-wire a bunch of them and discard all connectors. It should be all good for now. Also wired my Jeep with 7 pin connector and a trailer break control. Still very new to the trailer world. Learning as it goes. Thank you all for the help and fantastic mods. Will report back later.
Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?
- Thread starter Tkhawk
- Start date
YYCRod
Member
You will want to do your alignment while the trailer is on the wheels, fully loaded. Once I had the alignment done, I painted red “witness” lines on all of the alignment cams and nuts in case something gets banged out alignment while out in the back 40. It allows you to quickly get it back into rough alignment to get home.
TexasTaco
New member
I really like this. Are you making these for order? I am very interested if so.
Hi YYCRod, oh you have a Treeline tent. We have the Smittybilt XL tent, and it has windows on three sides plus the door, and the Batwing awning. So, we could fabricate mounts for the Scout awning mounting poles but would solve the issue for one window, in our case the left window, but we still have a problem for our rear window. Thank you for your reply.
Hi all, we just got back from our second camping trip with the trailer, and we are still very happy with it. Also found another (temporary) use for our dog ramp, see pic. The only concern we have with the trailer is with the ball hitch. We had to travel on unpaved road with a lot of ruts causing the trailer to rock and roll back and forth quite a bit. So we are ordering an offroad articulating hitch.
Attachments
spend the last 3 hours on the alignment. I think I got the toe and caster. However, my camber does not adjust along with outside cam bolt. I strapped a leveler vertically on the wheel. Adjust the cam bolt, I see that the outside control arm move up and down, but I got no obvious adjustment on the leveler (air bubble not in the center). My right wheel was nature, but the left side has negative camber. Anybody with any ideas? I did load the trailer and adjust it.
5thGenRunner
New member
Hey guys, just got my trailer and started assembly. For you Jeep guys, can anyone confirm if:
1. The new JL Rubicon wheels will bolt right on without any spacers or adapter?
2. Same Question for the JK Rubicon wheels.
I have access to some brand new take-offs and I'd like to get the wheels on asap make assembly easier in the garage.
1. The new JL Rubicon wheels will bolt right on without any spacers or adapter?
2. Same Question for the JK Rubicon wheels.
I have access to some brand new take-offs and I'd like to get the wheels on asap make assembly easier in the garage.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Thank you for the kind words. As with most of my projects, they are one off's. It is not very hard, but is labor intensive, and unless I build moulds for quick layups, it would never pay for itself. I would however encourage you to give it a go. My FB site offers all the help you need...
I am here to help.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
After our second outing with the trailer, the left wheel drifted a bit, and now has a negative camber as well. I suspect you should see an change when adjusting the outer bolts. It could be that your camber is off so much that the offset washer that you turn simply is not enough to see a change. Have a good look at the offset disc to make sure it rotates with the adjustment. IMHO a 3-5 deg. negative camber is not a bad thing, but anymore than that and you will wear your tire uneven.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Second time out. This time up at Lake Irwin, CO @ 10200 feet. Day temps was around 75 deg, and night time in the mid 40's. I was a bit nervous wrt the size of my solar panel, and small main battery.
https://products.interstatebatteries.com/Product/Details/12691
and
https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-HY-4x12-5W18V-Foldable-Suitcase-50W/dp/B06WWQHV2T?ref=ast_p_ep
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NTT8GH/ref=twister_B076K4CD9J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My concern was that the overnight power consumption of my Engel 40 qt fridge, would drain the small battery all the way down. Another concern was that the battery would hold, but the solar panel would not yield enough to bring it back up as it takes a bit longer for a deep cycle AGM battery to fully charge. The key was the Vitron solar controller, that allows for customization of the battery parameter. After two nights I am happy to say that it worked awesome. The first morning the battery had gone to 12.9 volt, and the second day 12.8. The solar panel was engaged as the sun came up and had recovered the battery about lunch time. The Vitron would go into float mode about then, but before would cycle between bulk and absorbsion. You can follow this on your phone via Bluetooth. It was then a matter of just hanging the panel in different places to maximize the solar efficiency.
https://products.interstatebatteries.com/Product/Details/12691
and
https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-HY-4x12-5W18V-Foldable-Suitcase-50W/dp/B06WWQHV2T?ref=ast_p_ep
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NTT8GH/ref=twister_B076K4CD9J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My concern was that the overnight power consumption of my Engel 40 qt fridge, would drain the small battery all the way down. Another concern was that the battery would hold, but the solar panel would not yield enough to bring it back up as it takes a bit longer for a deep cycle AGM battery to fully charge. The key was the Vitron solar controller, that allows for customization of the battery parameter. After two nights I am happy to say that it worked awesome. The first morning the battery had gone to 12.9 volt, and the second day 12.8. The solar panel was engaged as the sun came up and had recovered the battery about lunch time. The Vitron would go into float mode about then, but before would cycle between bulk and absorbsion. You can follow this on your phone via Bluetooth. It was then a matter of just hanging the panel in different places to maximize the solar efficiency.
YYCRod
Member
For the rear window (rear of the trailer that is), I used guy ropes and an extra pole. Works well enough and is easy to erect.
For the rear door fly, I welded some extensions and bolted them on the awning arm. We had a huge windstorm with rain last night. Other tents around us lost flys or collapsed. The the mounts held up perfectly.
I could draw up plans for the mount if it helps.
Btw, how is the new batwing? Worth changing from the foxwing?
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thank you for your reply. I did see the movement with the offset disc. I guess it is just not significant enough to bring the camber back to nature. I will take a trip after finishing my electric and water system. Maybe the backcountry road will adjust the suspension a bit. I will keep you all updated. BTW, is it possible to charge my trailer battery from the 7 pin connector? I see controversy answers on the internet. Do you have any experiences with this? If not, I will just use a 120V charger, maybe with a generator to power the system.
Hi, we have a JKU Sport. We needed to add 2" spacers to use the same wheels on the trailer.
Hi YYCRod, we will see if using guy lines will work for us.
I don't know if the cost of the Batwing is worth changing from the Foxwing but we really like how easy it is to setup the Batwing, especially since the poles are attached and sometimes don't need adjusting.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
If that is the case, then I would re check the suspension on that side. There should be enough adj. To bring in the chamber, but off course it is possible to have something misaligned from the factory.
Electrically, there are many different opinions. One is that if the battery is fully charged it will not acquire any current. Personally that is along my view as well. However speaking with battery experts they seems to agree that particularly with smaller batteries it should have a charge controller on it. Just like the tiny stock battery does. I have mine charged by the tow vehicle. I have not had any problems.