I cut all of them off and used my weather pack connectors. Much much better
Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?
- Thread starter Tkhawk
- Start date
ebrabaek
Adventurer
No it is not. The max rating of the model 75/10 is max voltage of 75 and a max curent of 10 amps. The bigger units are higher. This is the smallest unit they have. The 15 amp is a safety rating to disconnect the the load as it have increased beyond the max design limit. That is NOT considered a restriction or working current limit, but a safety disconnect.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
You can build up your own paramiters , or algorithms, that determines how you want your load to interact with your type of battety. This is not just about volts and amps, but also how your battety was charged yesterday...... the day before and such. For example, if you battety is 100% charged, you might want your load to shed at a certain voltage, but if you battery have only been restored to say 87% and is drawing down at a faster rate the algorithm precluding the disconnect will change. I have seen all to many agm batteries, norm and deep cycles, not charged correctly by their respective controller. I think there are 6 different charge/load algorithms you can select to optimize your system.
Yes it is. As I stated, the LVD output is a completely separate add-on function, nothing to do with the solar energy regulation / conversion functionality or its specs per model.
With a large enough bank, the user may have a 3kW inverter, tools, winches, cooking appliances, heating blankets, screen devices, gadget chargers, stereo **whatever** that requires lots more amps than a puny 10-15A.
With a generic adjustable LVD, you can duplicate the same functionality as the SC load outputs for those devices, and fine-tune what voltage setpoint you want for each.
But in any case, such load consumers **cannot** be driven off the SC load outputs, must be wired from the bank and its busses, panels whatever.
Again, no criticism of Victron, better than most SCs, what I'm talking about is true for this feature on all SCs that have it.
> The 15 amp is a safety rating to disconnect the the load as it have increased beyond the max design limit. That is NOT considered a restriction or working current limit, but a safety disconnect
The ampacity is a design decision, each LVD on the market has its limits, and the ones included in SCs are usually very low like this, sometimes even less than 10A continuous.
They could spend a little more and make theirs 30 or 60 or 100A.
Just like inverters, fuses, bussbars, switches, relays etc.
Check if the much more expensive units have a higher limit?
Again I'm not criticizing their design decision here,
just stating general facts, no idea why you're being so defensive.
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Generally LVD setpoints are not frequently adjusted, but if **you** want to do that, SC load terminals are very inflexible, a standalone generic unit that lets you set **any** voltage between say 10.5V and 14V is much more useful for that use case.
> I think there are 6 different charge/load algorithms you can select to optimize your system
Again no idea what you might be referring to here.
I am intimately familiar with many SCs and much more expensive and very sophisticated BMs, and my understanding of what you're talking about does not ring a bell.
If you think this functionality is available with Victron SCs, or some other add-on device, reference the manual and find the specific terminology used, so we can discuss these issues with greater precision.
I sincerely hope I will learn something new as a result.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
No it is not. Jon why would you use a 10 amp charger to run more than 10 amps. Even at start up. Only an idiot would design, purchase and use a controller with max of 10 amps design limit to drive anything acquiring more than 10 amps... Including start up. This unit will pass 10 amps, UNRESTRICTED through its load circuit. This is the max rating of the unit. The /15, will pass 15, and the /25 will pass 25 amps.
They will pass the max current they are rated at through their load circuit, thus not restricted. Only an idiot would use a 10 amp rated charger for a fridge or anything that uses more than 10 amps, Including startup.
They do spend a little more and have higher current units.
You are not stating the facts Jon. I am merely pointing out that. Not being defensive, but when you are insinuating that this unit is current limited, and as such has limitations on the load side because of such, I have to call that. Nothing more.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
I have red the manual John. That is exactly why I am calling out your wrong statement. Nothing more than that. I don't think there is a need to plug this thread up with manuals and such, but I would encourage you to read the manual for the unit we are discussing, and you will see that the only load restricting there is, as per the data sheet, is a max design load plus 25 to 50% used as a safety disconnect to prevent the unit from burning up when people underdimentions their system. If you buy the 75/10, ( which has a max rating of 10amps) feel free to yank 10 amps off the load side.... All day long.
I mean no disrespect, not am I picking on you John. I am merely saying that your statement with regards to the Vitron 75/10 is false. I don't think that is being defensive. I would encourage you to look at the manual for all of their smart chargers, and you will discover that all those units have load current ratings that are either equal or greater than their max design rating.
As far as the algorithms that I mentioned, I am sorry but I actually think I explained it pretty good... lol..... but perhaps not. Have a look at the manuals and data sheet for the unit we are discussing, and perhaps they can explain it from a different angle to better your understanding.
All that being said, I appreciate our discussion.
Cheers
Erling
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Again, the amps rating of the SC is what current it outputs **for charging**. Which has nothing to do with the max amp rate of whatever **loads** you may be running.
Again, those loads are **not running from that SC's panels** except for rare times, certain specific conditions. Even if connected from its load outputs, the power is usually fed from the bank.
It would be very unusual for a user to only have one SC as their banks' only charge source. Most take advantage of mains charging, often the alt while driving, many carry a generator.
Personally I also may have 4-8 SCs going in one install to match different panels, portables separate from the rooftop fixed ones.
So having a 75/10 or whatever hooked up to an 800AH LFP would not be that unusual, nor violate any design guidelines.
Certainly not "idiotic" - there's no call for insults here.
The fact that Victron limits its SCs load output current to match the unit's charging output is an arbitrary design decision.
And not one that I am criticizing, a very sensible one economically.
But users **need to be aware of** that designed limitation, and that's all I was pointing out.
Plus other makers choose load output limitations much lower than the charging output.
>> LVD output is a completely separate add-on function, nothing to do with the solar energy regulation / conversion functionality or its specs per model.
>> With a large enough bank, the user may have a 3kW inverter, tools, winches, cooking appliances, heating blankets, screen devices, gadget chargers, stereo **whatever** that requires lots more amps than a puny 10-15A.
>> With a generic adjustable LVD, you can duplicate the same functionality as the SC load outputs for those devices, and fine-tune what voltage setpoint you want for each.
_____
> This unit will pass 10 amps, UNRESTRICTED through its load circuit. This is the max rating of the unit. The /15, will pass 15, and the /25 will pass 25 amps. They will pass the max current they are rated at through their load circuit, thus not restricted.
You are twisting words here. Victron could have decided to include LVDs with larger (or smaller) ampacity ratings.
Their design decision as to max capacity is what creates the limitation, they are not separate issues.
I certainly never said there was any limitation below their design / component selection.
Perhaps the fact they choose to match the load output and charging output - is this also true for their largest units? is what caused you to think the two functions are related to each other.
Which statement is that? Feel free to paraphrase your understanding of what you think I am saying that is false.
I am not aware of any mis-statements by me in this thread.
> all those units have load current ratings that are either equal or greater than their max design rating.
I will paraphrase the above as "Victron has chosen to match the LVD ampacity to the max current output from the SC circuitry side".
That is true but irrelevant to any point I was making. An arbitrary design decision, the two functions are not related and any other ratio could have been selected.
> As far as the algorithms that I mentioned, I am sorry but I actually think I explained it pretty good... lol..... but perhaps not. Have a look at the manuals and data sheet for the unit we are discussing, and perhaps they can explain it from a different angle to better your understanding.
I have read their docs many times over the years. As I said I have no idea what "it" you are even referring to.
So, never mind, happy to let it go, so long as others coming across this thread understand the main point:
**If** you want to make use of the SC's LVD functionality by powering some of your loads off its output terminals,
make sure the **total** amps demanded at any one time is below their rated current output.
Many devices require much higher current at peak or startup, so e.g. with a 15A outlet, you may only be able to run a device that uses 5A continuously.
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ebrabaek
Adventurer
I simply do not agree with what you are writing John. I also see that I cannot reason with you REGARDING THE VITRON 75/10, which is what we are discussing. I have no clue what the industry drives, what is norm wrt panels and design. I am simply discussing the Vitron Model 75/10. It is rated 10 amps globally. It will output up to 10 amps to the battery and up to 10 amps on the load. The data sheet states that. I have put a load of 10 amps on the load terminals without a panel connected and it is not restricted. You keep twisting the conversation towards other units, and your experience with other units, but we are not discussing other units. It is really simple. As I said earlier, the Vitron 75/10 will handle up to 75 volts input from the solar panel. It will globally output up to 10 amps. Can be to the battery or to the load circuit.
I will leave this alone from here on out, so as to not clutter this fine thread with our bickering as there is no reason to exploit this any further.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
In closure wrt the Vitron Smart charger 75/10, you can use that to drive your loads up to 10 amps. The unique aspect is that you can customize the loads disconnect parameters. So if you have high draw units, or even low draw units, you can connect them to the load output from the controller rather than directly to your battery. The advantage is that your phone's app will provide data such as power consumption, the history of such along with customizable disconnect parameters. Many fridges have this built right in, but in my case with the Engel, it is not, and it is a nice function to have. This off course also applies to any other loads you might have. In addition to the electronic protection the unit offers, it is also fused. I have played around with is for a while, and if any of you have any questions, perhaps I can help in case you have any troubles.
How do you connect your battery to the tow vehicle? Any heavy duty gage wire or charging controller? Was reading previous discussion on the voltage drop at the 7 pin connector, and it concerns me.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
I went looking at mine after last weekends outing. The right is almost at a negative 5 deg. camber and the left is about 7-8 deg negative camber. Both side are at their max adjustment as well. After a bit of further investigation the swing are on both sides are 100% level ( no negative camber) the negative flex, begins as you bolt on the wheel flange with the 4 bolts. When I measure them, it appears that they are flexing quite a bit. I suppose that is magnified by the leverage ( arm length of the spindle)
China are no known for their high strength metal alloys, and As everything is perfectly straight and plum on the swing arm setup, I propose that the fault lies in the flex of the wheel flange, as it is bolted on the swing arm and outwards. Personally, I would like to bring the wheel inwards 2 inches on both sides, but as I have read the headaches others have posted wrt spacers, and bolt patterns, I am not real optimistic that this can easily be solved with another stronger bolt on wheel flange. There are off course methods one can do oneself, but I suspect that the wheel needs to move quite a bit. I will play with it a bit just to se. I think that I will install a 1/8 inch washer on the top of the flange ( without driving the trailer off course) and see if that is enough. Another option iss off course to just install a set of timbren axles. They are remarkedly inexpensive, and might actually be cheaper than buying other wheel flange/hubs. But I really like the setup stock. It tows awesome, on and off road, but the camber have to be dealt with as I will be going through tires.
It would be interesting to see how many other that have developed a negative camber. You can do a rough measurement by either holding a small level up against your rim, or a rougher way is to hold it up against your tire, avoiding the bottom bulge. Off course , first make sure you are on level ground.
If many have this issue, I will contact Smitty and as for their help.
My personal opinion, is that they built the frame, chassis, and swing arm perfectly straight, but did not count for the sag, twist, or call it flex, in the axle after the trailer is loaded up. I could off course be way off in that assessment, if only a few discovers that they have a negative camber.
I would personally be ok with less than 5 deg camber. Prefer less than 3 deg, and would strive for a perfect 0.
What say ya all???
ebrabaek
Adventurer
So I went out in the garage. Used the lift jacks, and hoisted the trailer off the ground. Removed both wheels, flanges. I cleaned up paint, grease, and rubber coating, bolted everything back together, and was able to achieve a 1 deg negative camber on the left, and a 2-3 deg negative camber on the right. This is with both side camber adjustment at their top stops respectively. With that being the case both swing arms have a 1 deg positive camber and as the spindle torques with the weight on it, that transfers into a couple of deg. negative deg camber, which is acceptable to me. I will report what happens after the next outing. Things are a bit smoky up here in the Rockies with the fires, so it might be a few weeks.
Cheers
Cheers
Mr. T
Member
Build your own if you have the skill and means. I did and my wife loves it. I could not get my wife to go camping because it took too long to put tends and everything up and take down. Now we go camping one weekend 4 or 5 month a year. It take ½ hour to put up an hour to take down.