One area that I have not touched on is the alignment. We scheduled ours in, but the place charged $150 pr axle, which I thought was a bit steep, so I thought I'd give it a go myself.
It is a bit intimidation, but yet again simple math. The following is my own simplified explanation. You have two ways to adjust it. Toe, and Camber. Toe being the wheel pointing inwards or outwards, and camber being a squatting tire.
The adjustments, for both on each "axle" is both on the torque link as it bolts on the frame. You adjust it by loosening the nut and rotating the bolt head, which has a rotating disc welded on it. Simple but yet functional.
I used a laser level and mounted it on the frame. It pointed the laser dot forward 20 feet and backwards 20 feet.
Here it is pictured on a different location.
I then taped a 1 inch square pipe in place on the wheels so I could clip the level on the wheel, and shine the laser both forward and backwards.
The frame dots were references, and then it is simply a matter of math. The difference between the frame and wheel dots should be the same front and rear. Mine was about 6 cm out of toe, even though it tracked fine, but that would have worn the tires relatively fast.
For camber I then just rotated the level vertical and used the bubble. I was not able to get the camber to zero, but very close. There were simply not enough adjustment available. The best way I can explain this is that I was off 3mm on the top on the right wheel, and could get the left to zero, but elected to keep both @ 3mm offset on top ( negative camber) for symmetrical reasons.
I double and triple checked, and tightened the adjustments, and it seems to still tow straight. It is important to have this done, as per the manual. You can scrub the tires very fast, so I would recommend that you have this checked..... or DIY...
Cheers
