Solar, ARB Fridge, Sears Platinum PM-1 - Group Size 31M QUESTIONS
- Thread starter SoCal_80
- Start date
teotwaki
Excelsior!
Why? There is lots of recorded data as well as testimonials to show it is not a problem
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
I ran my ARB fridge on the stock battery for close to five days without starting the rig as a test.
It fired up to go to work, but it was a little sluggish kicking over.
dzzz
™
Because it's a single starting battery. 20-25ah use overnight is probably fine with a full charged battery with like-new capacity. But it's hard to know when a battery is losing capacity.
I would have no problem running it on a house battery.
If the vehicle starts sluggishly the battery is discharged to the point where its life is reduced. Do that regularly and there won't be enough capacity to run the fridge all night.
I'm traveling in a week, and I won't be running the engel at night. I'll drag it into the motel room and plug it in. But partly because I don't want it stolen.
It would be nice to have an automatic cutoff at 12 volts.
I would have no problem running it on a house battery.
If the vehicle starts sluggishly the battery is discharged to the point where its life is reduced. Do that regularly and there won't be enough capacity to run the fridge all night.
I'm traveling in a week, and I won't be running the engel at night. I'll drag it into the motel room and plug it in. But partly because I don't want it stolen.
It would be nice to have an automatic cutoff at 12 volts.
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
Been doing it for a couple years with a Waeco CF-50. Never a problem even after several days
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
There are power cables you plug into your 12v receptacle then plug the fridge into it.
I have one, never used it though.
My 80W rigid panel is mounted to a set of Yakima cross bars on the roof of my wildernest using a bracket I made out of aluminium bar stock. The panel has a small junction box on the back that used to have two short jumper wires coming out of it (for connecting the panel into an array). I removed these and installed a 2 pin water resistant connector protruding from the junction box. I have an identical connector on the roof of my Wildernest. When the panel is on the roof racks I have a short 20cm cable that connects these two. When the panel is off the roof I have a 15m cable to connect it.
To connect the panel to your battery you need a charge controller. The standard is the Sunsaver line from Morning star (~$55), or if you are doing on the cheap a HQRP or sunforce are okay for ~$30. The wire between the panel and the controller is not critical 12 - 16 AWG is fine. It is best to put the charge controller right next to the battery ad the better ones are temperature compensated. All up an 80W system of reasonable quality can be put together for under $350 (assuming you already have a house battery and roof bars).
To connect the panel to your battery you need a charge controller. The standard is the Sunsaver line from Morning star (~$55), or if you are doing on the cheap a HQRP or sunforce are okay for ~$30. The wire between the panel and the controller is not critical 12 - 16 AWG is fine. It is best to put the charge controller right next to the battery ad the better ones are temperature compensated. All up an 80W system of reasonable quality can be put together for under $350 (assuming you already have a house battery and roof bars).
teotwaki
Excelsior!
I've been thinking about getting one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390280205019&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI
Been doing it for a couple years with a Waeco CF-50. Never a problem even after several days
Not to be rude but your statement in itself isn't really value added, you really need to add battery type, size, is it the starting battery, what are the voltage levels when trying to start after several days, etc...
dzzz, is pointing out what I was saying above about taking away battery capacity if you're just relying on "my vehicle started sluggishly". To recommend others do the same based on anecdotal statements is a disservice to others in my book (nothing towards you personally I just see the same mantra repeated without consideration for the actual battery/application/etc.).
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
How old is your battery?
Lifespan of an inexpensive starting battery in the fashion you are using it is going to be the big issue. A battery used strictly for starting and properly maintained often last for 5yrs or more in many vehicles (at least that has been my experience). Doing those 20ah deep cycles repeatedly on it isn't tapping into the battery hard core like leaving the headlights on all night and totally draining it but it will take a toll on it. Its not going to die instantly but I'll wager you'll need to replace it in a shorter interval. That might not sound so bad except if that is your only battery and you don't realize you're loosing capacity and can't start your rig at an inopportune time then you have an issue. I think that is what dzzz was getting at. Having the solar recharging it each morning definitely helps the situation though (getting charge back into a battery sooner than later is better).
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
Battery is dated 8/09 although it may not be a perfect set-up in some eyes but so far it has served us well. Several things that add to the efficiency of my set up. My location is AZ, check the charts you will be hard to find other places that boast the amount of solar insulation we receive along with long days. My fridge is used mostly for drinks that give it great thermal mass that I believe adds to better efficiency over night. I also use an insulated blanket again adding again to the efficacy.
I agree 100% with the abuse our battery receives and your concerns are valid. The set up is on our Land Cruiser and is used strictly as a recreation vehicle to pull our boat and popup. At no time are we without additional batteries. I have been told the required starting amps of a Toyota starter is 150A much lower then most. Even with a battery voltage of 11 volts the vehicle should start. Although I have not tested this claim. When the inexpensive lead acid battery goes hopefully it will still be under warranty and the cycle be restart.
This and other solar threads come across as "this is what you need" and setting up a system is not just cut and dry. Our grandmother who lived off grid in the rain forest of Hawaii had different needs then I do in AZ but we both have workable systems.
That right there makes all the difference to me.
I dislike threads that say you NEED this. Information should be presented for consideration and pros/cons brought up. Folks need to do a little thinking of what they want, I just like to be clear in the picture.
Sounds like you're setup just fine. :smiley_drive:
SoCal_80
Explorer
The newer ARB fridges have it built in with (3) diff voltage levels.