Sound Deadening Options?

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
there used to be a guy here in Salt Lake that daily drove a bright yellow DOKA, had a full exo cage, was really a killer truck.. Haven't seen him & the truck around in years though... He had his dialed too, I think he installed a OM617 turbo from a 300D, pretty cool..!
 

ChuckB

Expedition Leader
Hltoppr,

Thanks again for starting this thread. I'm going to have to read it again later, as there are a ton of options to consider. Interested to see which way you go as you'll probably do it before me...
 

kellymoe

Expedition Leader
I went through this a few years ago with my Defender 130 Crewcab. It had no insulation on the roof, doors, floor, bulkhead, seat boxes etc... It was noisy!! I started by purchasing a 99 square foot roll of Peel and Stick or Peel and Seel, cant remember. It's looks exactly like the Edead stuff or Dynamat but it cost $89 for the roll. I did my headliner, bulkhead, floor, doors, hood, seatbox and transmission tunnel cover and still have a bunch leftover. In the engine compartment I added a fibreglass quilted blanket that is used to protect aircraft parts.

The results were dramatic. I can now listen to and actually hear my stereo. The lining the roof made a big differance in heat during the summer.

Here is a shot of the engine compartment with the fibre quilt. Not pretty but it blocks the heat transfer and reduces noise even more. I have a few more of the quilts if anyone is looking for something like that. I am willing to part with them for a small fee:)
 
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Hltoppr

El Gringo Spectacular!
Lots of options....I'm still on the fence about the stick down mat....I just cringe thinking about removing it....

So, I've started using POR15 on all the minor rust spots...really not much, which is good...

I know I'd like carpeting, at least in the passenger areas, so it comes down to what to put underneath....

-H-
 

Life_in_4Lo

Explorer
Hltoppr,
If you are worried about future restoration, just use non-adhesive padding/sound material under the carpet w/ strategic pieces of dynamat (or whatever).

The largest gains are not by covering every square inch of metal, but by changing the resonance freq of every piece of metal. Even a relatively small patch of dynamat on a piece of sheetmetal will make a difference b/c it no longer 'booms'.
I think it has to be stuck to the metal, just placing it against the sides or roof will not be as effective as the adhesive because you are actually creating a composite sandwich when you adhere it to the metal. The metal can no longer amplify noise as sound cannot travel thru it the same.

good luck!
 

Photog

Explorer
Life_in_4Lo said:
Hltoppr,
If you are worried about future restoration, just use non-adhesive padding/sound material under the carpet w/ strategic pieces of dynamat (or whatever).

The largest gains are not by covering every square inch of metal, but by changing the resonance freq of every piece of metal. Even a relatively small patch of dynamat on a piece of sheetmetal will make a difference b/c it no longer 'booms'.
I think it has to be stuck to the metal, just placing it against the sides or roof will not be as effective as the adhesive because you are actually creating a composite sandwich when you adhere it to the metal. The metal can no longer amplify noise as sound cannot travel thru it the same.

good luck!

That is fairly close to correct. If you look at your large pieces of sheetmetal as if it were a speaker, then doing something to change its ability to flex, will change the sound it makes. If you add some mass to the surface, it will flex slower, and be a lower frequency. The idea is to reduce the frequence to a level you can no longer hear.

But sheet metal transmits high freq sound also, but not like a speaker. More like hearing voices through a wall. That is where the full coverage of the metal comes in. Wind noise, and tires humming on the pavement, engines, transmissions, transfercases, etc, all make high freq noise. Most of these noises come from the lower half of the vehicle. You will gain the most by working on this part of the vehicle.

If you attach heat insulation to the roof, and only glue it along the edges, you won't notice a lot of difference in noise reduction. IF you add some mass to the surface, and then add the heat insulation, you sould get both benefits, if you glue them both in place, 100%.

If you are considering a future restoration to the vehicle, why would you want it as an expedition vehicle. It will get to many mods to restore it anyway. If you remove all the external mods, and then sell it, the buyer will enjoy the quiet interior. You are driving it; make it comfortable for you. Forget about the next possible owner.

It sounds like the spray-on bed-liners are really great for protecting truck beds and fenders from scratches. I hear it also works fairly well on the inside of fiberglass '32 Ford fenders, to prevent rock damage to the fiberglass. Other than that, you probably don't want to use the stuff.
 

cruiser guy

Explorer
I've used a product called "Second Skin" in the '55. It made a big difference in the sound level inside when driving. Before the sound deadener you could not hold a conversation without yelling, now it is similar to the BJ60. It's not a Cadillac but you won't loose your hearing driving it either! I put a carpet set over top and kept the original rubber mat under the carpet and over the sound deadener.

Pics of the install are here http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=174972 in post #13.
 

instantninja

New member
i know this is pretty old, but when I strip my truck down later this year I had planned on picking up a roll of ice and water shield, a membrane designed for roofing to prevent water and ice buildup on the outer 3 feet of the roof. its a rubber ashphalt adhsive material that comes in a roll 3 feet wide and 75-100 foot long for around $100. its way cheaper than dyna mat and the others I've looked at.
just a thought, I'll be trying it out in a month or two.
 

kellymoe

Expedition Leader
i know this is pretty old, but when I strip my truck down later this year I had planned on picking up a roll of ice and water shield, a membrane designed for roofing to prevent water and ice buildup on the outer 3 feet of the roof. its a rubber ashphalt adhsive material that comes in a roll 3 feet wide and 75-100 foot long for around $100. its way cheaper than dyna mat and the others I've looked at.
just a thought, I'll be trying it out in a month or two.


I have had the same stuff in my truck for about 4 years now. It works great for sound and as a heat shield. I think you will be very pleased.
 

Carlyle

Explorer
I bought some generic Fat mat off FleaBay when I bought my truck and had the whole thing done when the stereo went in. Sound at driving speeds is much better now.
 

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