Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.
- Thread starter luthj
- Start date
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I don't quite get the question. What part of the donor drivetrain is weakest?
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
I think the whole idea is to use to the 2500 Suburban stuff because it's slightly overkill, right? It uses a Dana 153147X u-joint at both ends of the front drive shaft. It has 1.125" bearing caps. A 1330 has smaller caps, 1.062".
If you different joints at each end of the shaft, consider where you want the weak link. I would want it at the case end. Lot less damage done by a single spinning yoke or CV up at the case than by an entire spinning shaft down by the transmission and engine oil pan.
If you can/do upgrade the case end, I would not go any stronger than the axle end.
If you different joints at each end of the shaft, consider where you want the weak link. I would want it at the case end. Lot less damage done by a single spinning yoke or CV up at the case than by an entire spinning shaft down by the transmission and engine oil pan.
If you can/do upgrade the case end, I would not go any stronger than the axle end.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
My Google-**** is weak today, I couldn't find a flange yoke. So I reached out to Rob at VanCompass. He pointed me to a company that makes a 1350 conversion yoke for the sprinter. Only 45$!
fortwayneclutch.com
1350 SERIES - DODGE SPRINTER FREIGHTLINER DRIVESHAFT "CONVERSION" FLANGE YOKE - 2.240"FP- SKU# N3-2-5104 - Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline
SPECS: (1)- "CONVERSION" FLANGE YOKE 2 13/16" x 2 13/16" = BOLT HOLE CENTERLINE DISTANCES (measured in a square pattern) 4.00" = APPROX BOLT HOLE CENTERLINE DISTANCE (measured diagonally) .404" = APPROX BOLT HOLE DIAMETERS 2.24" = FEMALE PILOTING DIAMETER NEW - DISTRIBUTED BY NEAPCO *USED...
fortwayneclutch.com
shade
Well-known member
I meant that the 2500 parts are probably stronger than some of the others, so you probably won't go wrong with similar strength parts, as opposed to some of the Jeep components.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Pulled a Tcase mounting stud. They are a bit unusual. The Tcase size is about 5/8-3/4" long b y 3/8-16 thread. The trans side is 1" long 3/8x24 thread. Total length is 1.95". A 3" stud is needed. These investment cast aluminum cases are fairly low density, so the lower pitch helps prevent thread failure.
Looks like Dorman 675-080 or 675-099 will work fine.
I measured the stock U joints on my van. They are 1.06" diameter caps, and about 3" across the outside. Pretty lightweight by american truck standards, but the factory driveshafts do usually go about 200k+ between replacements.
I think the best option is to go with 1350s all-around if I can find all the necessary yokes. Thats a common size for trucks in the 8-10klb range, and will reduce my spares count.
We just got back from a last-chance trip in the van (before it becomes a driveway fixture). So I may have time to drop the trans next weekend. Though who knows...
Looks like Dorman 675-080 or 675-099 will work fine.
I measured the stock U joints on my van. They are 1.06" diameter caps, and about 3" across the outside. Pretty lightweight by american truck standards, but the factory driveshafts do usually go about 200k+ between replacements.
I think the best option is to go with 1350s all-around if I can find all the necessary yokes. Thats a common size for trucks in the 8-10klb range, and will reduce my spares count.
We just got back from a last-chance trip in the van (before it becomes a driveway fixture). So I may have time to drop the trans next weekend. Though who knows...
Also.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
mountainhick
Member
Also
Dorman 675-523
Dorman 675-523
- End 1: 3/8"-16 x 0.75"
- End 2: 3/8"-24 x 2"
- Overall length 3"
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Did a longer drive with the FWB connected. Some issues came up.
At random intervals, I would get 544F, which is speed sensor or wiring faulty. Sometimes it took 5 minutes, sometimes 20. it didn't seem to matter what speed I was going. Clearing the code resumed normal operation. Of course that requires the van to be going less than 30mph. When the dash lights illuminated, there was no other odd behavior, just sudden lights and no cruise.
One time I also got a 548F code. This is a generic error for "Unshielded electromagnetic equipment may cause interference." Which is not terribly helpful.
Other than the codes, everything operated completely normally until they appeared. It looks like I need to get my Oscope connected, and start driving with it on my dash.
I see three possible causes.
1 The FWB is doing something crazy, and outputting ridiculous noise.
2 The output signal is in some way not compatible with the ESP modules check routines
3 The ESP module runs some kind of check (12v pulse or something) at a random internal, or at some condition I don't yet know.
I will get the scope on it, and If I can't spot the cause (it may happen to quickly for me to notice). I will try lowering the output voltage to less than 3V. The last time I was getting these codes, I had the voltage too high. I will also review the code, to see what happens in a fault condition.
At random intervals, I would get 544F, which is speed sensor or wiring faulty. Sometimes it took 5 minutes, sometimes 20. it didn't seem to matter what speed I was going. Clearing the code resumed normal operation. Of course that requires the van to be going less than 30mph. When the dash lights illuminated, there was no other odd behavior, just sudden lights and no cruise.
One time I also got a 548F code. This is a generic error for "Unshielded electromagnetic equipment may cause interference." Which is not terribly helpful.
Other than the codes, everything operated completely normally until they appeared. It looks like I need to get my Oscope connected, and start driving with it on my dash.
I see three possible causes.
1 The FWB is doing something crazy, and outputting ridiculous noise.
2 The output signal is in some way not compatible with the ESP modules check routines
3 The ESP module runs some kind of check (12v pulse or something) at a random internal, or at some condition I don't yet know.
I will get the scope on it, and If I can't spot the cause (it may happen to quickly for me to notice). I will try lowering the output voltage to less than 3V. The last time I was getting these codes, I had the voltage too high. I will also review the code, to see what happens in a fault condition.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
I also cut about 0.15" off the input gears nose. No reduction in spline engagement. I made sure to chamfer the leading edge, and used some 400 grit sandpaper to remove any burs. Don't want to tear the seal!
IMG_20190728_165221332
IMG_20190728_173715307
IMG_20190728_165221332
IMG_20190728_173715307
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I am an engineer, though not electrical. Engineering is a vast and deep field of expertise. I don't have much knowledge of RF design, or grid transmission, but I have learned a bit about automotive and embedded design. To be fair, there are quite a few EEs who couldn't crimp a wire if their life depended on it, and just as many MEs who couldn't find the power switch on a lathe or welder.
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