Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.

[luthj]

Only took about 3 hours to get it separated. Now I just need to get it out some how.

 

[luthj]

And, its free.



I need to transfer the rack over to the new subframe, swap the hard lines, and install the diff. At that point I can do a test fit, trim whats needed, and sacrifice an offering. I took one of the lift spacers off and checked the subframe. Hole spacing looks good. Width may be off 1/16 or so. I may need to get the bur out, and remove some material from the inside edge.

 

[shade]

Huzzah!

So have you been camouflaging the van in the driveway to hide its inoperable status, or not worrying about the neighbours?

 

[luthj]

Huzzah!

So have you been camouflaging the van in the driveway to hide its inoperable status, or not worrying about the neighbours?

Right now its just sitting on jack stands. I am not too worried about the neighbors, at least not for a few days or a week. They seem pretty tolerant overall. Worst case I will toss the loose sprinter wheels/tires back in the wheel wells. I won't be needing them (if they walk off), and thats pretty good camo.

There isn't any city law about inoperable vehicles, and the HOA is pretty minimal. For example, a car needs to be abandoned on the side of the road for at least 7 days before they can ticket it, then another few before they can tow and impound...

 

[shade]

Right now its just sitting on jack stands. I am not too worried about the neighbors, at least not for a few days or a week. They seem pretty tolerant overall. Worst case I will toss the loose sprinter wheels/tires back in the wheel wells. I won't be needing them (if they walk off), and thats pretty good camo.

There isn't any city law about inoperable vehicles, and the HOA is pretty minimal. For example, a car needs to be abandoned on the side of the road for at least 7 days before they can ticket it, then another few before they can tow and impound...

They probably just want you to get it over with. "What's taking him so long?"

Around here, the main requirement is parking on an improved surface, which recently got an update. People were putting four patio blocks under the wheels and letting their junk sink in the mud. Now the entire area under the vehicle has to be improved, and "improved" has been defined better.

Seven days without moving is pretty generous. 48 hrs here, and working on a vehicle in the street carries a surprisingly big fine.

 

[luthj]

Ran out of sunlight, but got a fair bit done.









Getting the diff installed was a pain. Nearly lost my cool after 45 minutes manhandling it. I ended up notching the rear mount support gussets a bit, which gave me enough clearance to install the diff with the rack in place.



If your wondering how I got the frame under the van by myself. I used a couple sheets of carpet with cardboard to slide on. Took a while though.







Here is where its at now. I need to do a bit more trimming and flatten on seam in the wheel well. That will let me seat it fully and align the bolt holes. Engine mounts look pretty close. The diff to bellhousing clearance is tight. I will need to grind about 3/16 from both to get good clearance. Thankfully the engines torque will rotate it away from the diff when in drive. And yes, I did use every jack in my possession.




Other notes. MB used an odd union for the brake lines. Upstream is a male bubble flare (I thought it was female, but it was hiding under a clip). So I need to re-use the MB fitting, and do a inverted double flare on the new brake lines. Another option is to go straight to the ABS unit. Its tight in the engine bay. However There is a good access hole already in the wheel well, which will let me route a hard line from the engine compartment to the flex line. That would mean no brake lines on the subframe at all, which has its perks.

The front driveshaft is going to be interesting I think. I glanced at it during cleanup. Hard to tell, but it might interfere with the trans cross member? I don't have the diff adjusted yet, so who knows.

 

[shade]

Getting the diff installed was a pain. Nearly lost my cool after 45 minutes manhandling it. I ended up notching the rear mount support gussets a bit, which gave me enough clearance to install the diff with the rack in place.

That may pay off if you're ever forced to do a repair on the road.

How do you like the bottle jack stand, or whatever those are called? I've thought about adding one or two to my collection.

 

[luthj]

How do you like the bottle jack stand, or whatever those are called? I've thought about adding one or two to my collection.

Works good. I use it as the primary on the van, as almost no single stage jacks are tall enough to use the factory jack points (this one still needs a some wood blocks depending). The safety lock can be engaged to take the load off the hydraulics (you have to lower it a bit). Otherwise it will catch the load if the hydralics fail, though it will still drop an inch or two.

 

[Alloy]

Ran out of sunlight, but got a fair bit done.









Getting the diff installed was a pain. Nearly lost my cool after 45 minutes manhandling it. I ended up notching the rear mount support gussets a bit, which gave me enough clearance to install the diff with the rack in place.



If your wondering how I got the frame under the van by myself. I used a couple sheets of carpet with cardboard to slide on. Took a while though.







Here is where its at now. I need to do a bit more trimming and flatten on seam in the wheel well. That will let me seat it fully and align the bolt holes. Engine mounts look pretty close. The diff to bellhousing clearance is tight. I will need to grind about 3/16 from both to get good clearance. Thankfully the engines torque will rotate it away from the diff when in drive. And yes, I did use every jack in my possession.




Other notes. MB used an odd union for the brake lines. Upstream is a male bubble flare (I thought it was female, but it was hiding under a clip). So I need to re-use the MB fitting, and do a inverted double flare on the new brake lines. Another option is to go straight to the ABS unit. Its tight in the engine bay. However There is a good access hole already in the wheel well, which will let me route a hard line from the engine compartment to the flex line. That would mean no brake lines on the subframe at all, which has its perks.

The front driveshaft is going to be interesting I think. I glanced at it during cleanup. Hard to tell, but it might interfere with the trans cross member? I don't have the diff adjusted yet, so who knows.

You have an amazing amount of mind and hand know how.

 

[shade]

I'm not so sure his wife isn't in charge. He's just the labour.

 

[luthj]

You have an amazing amount of mind and hand know how.

That's probably the most unique compliment I have gotten (at least in recent memory). Thanks!

I'm not so sure his wife isn't in charge. He's just the labour.

She has been upset that I have been doing all the work recently (due to her medical issues). I doubt she would be beating on the van, but probably some welding and painting, parts cleaning etc.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Holy crap this is intense!! Awesome work, very impressive. Hope the Mrs feels better soon!

 

[shade]

She has been upset that I have been doing all the work recently (due to her medical issues). I doubt she would be beating on the van, but probably some welding and painting, parts cleaning etc.

Well, that sucks. I hope she's at least able to earn money toward the Get Out of Here Fund.

 

[luthj]

Well, that sucks. I hope she's at least able to earn money toward the Get Out of Here Fund.

Thankfully our jobs just require desk work (or laptop-on-the-couch work). Though I will comment that medical care in the USA is very high priced for its value... But that's for another thread.

 

[luthj]

Beating away at it. Its attached now. I am having trouble with the front most bolt, It lines up, but I don't have enough clearance to get a socket on the head (too close to the vertical plate). So it looks like I need to drop that side some, and clearance the hole.



I am not sure what I am going to do for a brace. I could just drill through the shock tower backer, and bolt through. Its pretty thick material.