Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.

Len.Barron

Observer
Definitely a consideration. Typically most metro areas have someone who can work steel wheels like that.
some of the 80-90's 1 ton dually pickups used alcoa's on the outside that had less offset than the steel inner (standard budd wheel) take a look at those, it might be as close as you'll get...for spacers/adapters...only buy BORA(and yes, they are expensive). IIWM, I'd swap the diff to a 10.5AAM.
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
Whats the weight difference between the 9.5 and 10.5 axles? What is the major advantage of the 10.5? I am not running big tires, and the axle load will be 4600lb or so.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
Whats the weight difference between the 9.5 and 10.5 axles? What is the major advantage of the 10.5? I am not running big tires, and the axle load will be 4600lb or so.
availability would be the first, they are everywhere...second is the availability of parts/gears/lockers etc...third, brakes, they have massive twin piston disc that are fantastic and have very long life...and finally (for me) they are full floating...I'm one of those guys who has had a rear axle bearing fail and the entire axle shaft come out (tire and all) I'll never own a truck/van with a semi float axle again..
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
some of the 80-90's 1 ton dually pickups used alcoa's on the outside that had less offset than the steel inner (standard budd wheel) take a look at those, it might be as close as you'll get...for spacers/adapters...only buy BORA(and yes, they are expensive). IIWM, I'd swap the diff to a 10.5AAM.


What brand of truck? MUST be a GM or Dodge thing. I've had several sets of Ford OE DRW Alcoas, dozens of those trucks, never heard of this.

What you describe would mean either different offsets front vs rear outer or different offsets front vs spare or different offsets spare vs rear inner. That last one would be the least likely since they're both steel. Seems VERY unlikely a truck, at a time when they were still very much a utility vehicle not a status symbol, would have such ridiculous handicaps designed in.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
It was just something I noticed on an Alcoa application/wheel spec chart a few years back when I was researching wheels, I have no idea how available they are or specifics for donors, IIRC the difference was approx 25mm in offset but it's been a good 3 years since I looked at that..
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
It was just something I noticed on an Alcoa application/wheel spec chart a few years back when I was researching wheels, I have no idea how available they are or specifics for donors, IIRC the difference was approx 25mm in offset but it's been a good 3 years since I looked at that..

1" would be a lot of offset difference

You might've seen the flange difference, which is right at an inch, just due to aluminum vs steel. The actual total offset is the same (for reasons posted previously) but the aluminum outer wheel makes up some of it in flange thickness alone.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Really wide wheels with larger diameter sometimes have a larger offset. This allows for the same track width with a wider tire. The larger diameter allows for the smaller backspace for suspension clearance.

Speaking of clearance. on the hard limit of the knuckle and LCA, the brake line hits the shock. I will probably need to reduce the rack travel some. In addition I will probably move the brake line for a bit more steering angle.




I will have a go at bending the steel hard section, but I am not hopeful. I have another idea though. I could get custom lines made, but it looks like the 1500 chevy brake lines are all flex from the banjo, so I could run them over the top of the caliper instead. The brackets look pretty to right as well.

1578700808675.png
 

Len.Barron

Observer
In this case I would convert to -3an braided teflon hoses and banjo adapters...it's extremely handy to be able to carry a single hose as a spare and you can cap/plug them easily for removal maintenance. You can buy premade hoses on Summit, speedway, amazon, ebay, etc...that are DOT cert and inexpensive..
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
It appears that GM changed the brake line routing at some point on the 2500s. All the new parts go around the side, while the original lines from the donor go next to the bleed port. it would have been nice to find the older style avaialble new, but no luck sadly.



The 1500 lines fit fine. I needed to clearance grind a mm or two from the banjo outside edge, and move the brackets a bit.







The hard line placement isn't ideal. The best position would be on the rear of the UCA, but the routing would be too tight a radius. So I will need to run the hard lines up the wheel well. The other option is to run them inside the engine compartment, and drill a pass through into the wheel well.
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
Got a update from the machine shop, the rack adapter/spacer will be done shortly. I am occupied this weekend, but if the weather is good next weekend, I am going to do the deed, and bring forth the moment of truth. I ordered some fresh grinding and cutting discs, I figure If I have them, I wont need them!
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Rack adapters are here. Looks like I need to adjust the countersink slightly for the radius at the thread root, but otherwise fit is good.



 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Just jam that F'er in there, deformed threads are better than loctite!

I am not sure what it takes to shear a 18mm thread, but thats a pretty good way to find out!

I think I have a large countersink bit, should be a pretty quick fix. Worst case I throw a 1/32" washer on.

Weather is going to be dry and clear over the weekend, so we are a tentative go for van teardown.
 

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