Stitch and glue Lightweight platform update

fluffyprinceton

Adventurer
Nice job - Great example of the design flexibility of building with stitch & glue/liquid joinery techniques.

I want to point out your intelligent use of monstaliner. One school of thought is "what a shame to hide all that nice grade of ply" the other school knows something about the surface durability of ply & the sanding hours needed to make & keep it pretty. Great solution.

One question about your aluminum sheathed drawer front - how do you deal with the corners where they wrap around the ply? Do you miter them before bending them in the brake? Are they soldered? How do you keep the wrapped corner points from bending up at some point?

Also could you show us how the ice chest slider works in practice? Thanks!Moe
 

Oyster9

Observer
Nice job - Great example of the design flexibility of building with stitch & glue/liquid joinery techniques.

I want to point out your intelligent use of monstaliner. One school of thought is "what a shame to hide all that nice grade of ply" the other school knows something about the surface durability of ply & the sanding hours needed to make & keep it pretty. Great solution.

One question about your aluminum sheathed drawer front - how do you deal with the corners where they wrap around the ply? Do you miter them before bending them in the brake? Are they soldered? How do you keep the wrapped corner points from bending up at some point?

Also could you show us how the ice chest slider works in practice? Thanks!Moe

Thank you,
I'll take durability over nice grain any day.
The corner on the drawer front has a 90 degree cope, then it is broke and welded.
It is 1/8" thick so it would take a nasty blow to bend it.
On post #34 there is a pic with the cooler slide in action,
Now if you are wondering what keeps it from falling to the ground, just good gravitational sense.
But if that does not work out, I will put a set of fold down legs on it.
Then I could deploy one set and leave one end on the truck or both and make it a free standing table.
The framing was designed with that in mind.
Did you check out the canoe build pics?
 
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fluffyprinceton

Adventurer
Thanks for the drawer front details I - admire the way you are mixing wood, monstaliner, aluminum & epoxy/mixes. In pods8 great poptop buildhttp://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/58926-POD-Homebuilt-foam-core-fiberglass-skin-pop-up-camper-build-thread/page27 he's leaning towards monstaliner for the whole exterior - is the monstaliner surface rough in a way to hold dirt & mold (when stored on the wet shadowed side of the garage for instance)? I'm sure you know the look in your neck of the woods...What's your experience with the stuff - what's it look like a couple years down the road?

I tried hard to deal with the tiny default photo size in photobucket - I got the general idea but miss the details...I'd love to study them closely if I could see them better, of course it would just lead to more questions... and I know it's more work for you (unless I'm missing something basic about making them bigger?)
Couple things stood out - for instance are there metal inserts in the ah...quarter knees (stern corner braces at gunnel height)? Looked slick & a great idea but I don't know how you'd do it...I'm trying to use more aluminum & copper in my work but don't have much experience working them.
Loved the abs or pvc "pipe clamps" - 100 clamps for pretty much free - perfect for epoxy bonding.
Nice to see somebody try & sink their boat in controlled conditions so they have 1/2 a clue when it happens unplanned...water looked cold...That's what led to your aft flotation bags I'd guess...
I'm somewhat familiar with outboards with jet drives - could you compare them to the Mud Buddy which I know nothing about?
Is the freighter your design? Keep up the good work. Moe
 

Oyster9

Observer
Thanks for the drawer front details I - admire the way you are mixing wood, monstaliner, aluminum & epoxy/mixes. In pods8 great poptop buildhttp://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/58926-POD-Homebuilt-foam-core-fiberglass-skin-pop-up-camper-build-thread/page27 he's leaning towards monstaliner for the whole exterior - is the monstaliner surface rough in a way to hold dirt & mold (when stored on the wet shadowed side of the garage for instance)? I'm sure you know the look in your neck of the woods...What's your experience with the stuff - what's it look like a couple years down the road?

I tried hard to deal with the tiny default photo size in photobucket - I got the general idea but miss the details...I'd love to study them closely if I could see them better, of course it would just lead to more questions... and I know it's more work for you (unless I'm missing something basic about making them bigger?)
Couple things stood out - for instance are there metal inserts in the ah...quarter knees (stern corner braces at gunnel height)? Looked slick & a great idea but I don't know how you'd do it...I'm trying to use more aluminum & copper in my work but don't have much experience working them.
Loved the abs or pvc "pipe clamps" - 100 clamps for pretty much free - perfect for epoxy bonding.
Nice to see somebody try & sink their boat in controlled conditions so they have 1/2 a clue when it happens unplanned...water looked cold...That's what led to your aft flotation bags I'd guess...
I'm somewhat familiar with outboards with jet drives - could you compare them to the Mud Buddy which I know nothing about?
Is the freighter your design? Keep up the good work. Moe

I had a flatbed I made sprayed with rhino and the only way I could clean it was with a pressure washer because the texture was so rough.
The texture with the monstaliner is more like a heavy orange peel.
My only experience with the monstaliner is on the canoe and it is only 1 year old.
As far as photobucket, I click the small pic and it gets big, then I click on the right or left side of the big pic to scroll ahead or back.
Yes, I hammer formed copper caps for the breasthook, quarter knees, inwales and spray rails.
If you figure out how to make the pics bigger, there is quite a few pics of the copper work to see how it is done.
Yes, the pipe clamps are cheap and have about the right tension for epoxy glue up.
I marked a bucket at 40# of water and counted them as I poured them in the boat.
At 2400# the water was just below the spray rails.
Then I climbed in and swamped it.
I also bolted enough blind flanges on the transom to simulate engine weight and center of gravity.
Then I rolled it to see how it was to right it and bail it.
The ice had just went off the lake and sure enough was cold.
The float bags are thwarts out of a raft of mine and were supposed to be temporary but work well.
The jet will run shallower water than the surface drive.
The jet needs to be up on step to run, so to carry the the weight the freighter can it takes about 150 hp.
The 23 hp surface drive burns about a gallon per hour, my 115 hp jet burns about 8 gallons per hour loaded heavy.
The surface drive is air cooled, no worries of water pump failure do to weeds, silt or running dry.
The jet is fast, the surface drive is slow.
The boat design belongs to Tim Marchetti of cnc routing and design out of Maine.
Thank you
 

Oyster9

Observer
Moe,
I reread your last post and I think you we're talking about the copper sleeves.
If that is the case here is how it is done.
Bore hole in the wood and bevel or chamfer with a countersink, burr or sand paper wrapped a dowel both sides.
Cut a piece of copper tubing about 1/8" longer than the thickness of what you sleeving.
Then heat the copper with a torch till it is dull red to anneal it.
Now flare one end with a flaring tool or with a very small ball pein and many light strikes being carefull not to upset the other end.
Then sand the tube and slather the tube and the hole it is going in with thickened epoxy.
Put the tube thru wood and give a few pecks with a ball pein that is a bigger than the tube to seat it in the bevel.
Clean any epoxy that is on the tube and bevel on the end that has not been flared yet and let cure.
After that mix a dab of epoxy and smear it on the end that needs flared.
Clamp the bigger ball pein in the vise and set the end that has been flared already on it.
Now you can take the small ball pein with many light strikes flare it, finishing with bigger ball pein
It is quite easy to do, just be gentle with the hammer strikes as the copper is butter soft in its annealed state.
 

Oyster9

Observer
Cab platform


Here is a cab platform for stowing guns, fishing rods, break down oars, shovel, axe or any other long items below
And a raft on top with room for more.
 

Oyster9

Observer
One last thing



Here is a deck that will span the bed rails at the front.
It will stow duffles, cooler, dry box, with room for feet below when sleeping.
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Very nice stuff. I used Monstaliner on my trailer inside the tub and on the fenders. Fantastic stuff, very durable and easy to work with. Highly recommended...and it looks excellent on your setup.
 

Oyster9

Observer
how is the drawer front holding up to the copper? they're not really friends.

http://www.zygology.com/productcart/pc/WEB_page.asp?ID=26

Great so far, it is brand new.
I had copper nails and that is why they are copper, if I had aluminum rivets I would have used them.
Being as they are not truly structural or pressure holding, I see no real concern.
The environment in the interior of Alaska is quite dry, so I feel the rivets will out live me.
If not, no big deal to change them out.
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
I know I said it before...but it's been a pleasure following this build..great work and best of luck with it! :beer:
 

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