Supertramp Flagship LT pop-up slide-in pickup camper

knutsCO

New member
Hey fellas,

Thought you might be interested in some longish-term operational data from a fellow "tramper" (build #11).

Relevant configuration specs:
2022 F250 SCSB 7.3L gaser with 3.55 gears, 2" front leveling lift and rear Alcan spring packs
35x12.50 Toyo AT3 mounted on 17x9 Method wheels
Typical Axle Weights - 4500 lbs FA / 5000 Lbs RA
2WD front bumper valance
16k total miles since truck was delivered late July 2022
Camper was installed late Aug 2022 and has only been removed (temporarily) for maintenance

This is our second truck camper. Previous was a Northstar Laredo SC on a 2017 F350 SRW CCSB 6.7L diesel which we enjoyed for 2.5 years. See Northstar Laredo SC for relevant configuration details.

Our typical use case is frequent 3-4 day local Colorado trips for hiking, biking and skiing, several western US (Arizona, Utah, Wyoming, etc.) 10 day trips each year, and a longer multi-week XC trip each year to visit family in western NY. Typical speeds for us are 60-65 mph on 2 lane rural highways and posted limits on interstates.

Interestingly, we are seeing similar fuel economy with the F250 Supertramp pop-up vs the F350 Northstar hardside. Both configurations typically achieve(d) 12-14 mpg with a 13.2 mpg long-term average (16k miles) for the F250 gasser and 13.4 mpg long-term average (22k miles) for the F350 diesel. Both trucks have the standard 34 gallon fuel tank, allowing for a comfortable 400 mile range (in the absence of a strong head-wind or significant off-highway driving).

We have used both campers mid-winter in Colorado in single digit above/below 0F ambient temperatures. In fact, we just got back from a skiing trip where we spent a night on Wolf Creek Pass (10,800') during the last storm remnants from the "so called" atmospheric river event that has been pounding California and affecting weather across the desert SW for the past week. The temp dropped to about +5F that night with occasional wind gusts that I estimate were in the 30-40 mph range for several hours during the middle of the night. We awoke to 10' inches of fresh snow on the ground with drifts of 3+ feet in the leigh of the snow mounds surrounding the trailhead parking area at the top of the pass.

I have to say, I am very happy with the comfort and performance of the Supertramp pop-up in these mid-winter conditions. Condensation is almost absent in the Supertramp due to the breathability of the tent material. The only place we have noticed significant condensation is on the vinyl windows and the roof vent fans (to be expected). Previously with the Northstar it was necessary to ventilate to reduce humidity and cut down on condensation on the walls in the cab-over area at night. In similar winter conditions we always had to wipe down the walls in the Northstar bunk area to remove condensation in the morning. Definitely not the case in the Supertramp. To maintain a 50F delta (inside vs outside), I plan for 4 lbs propane/day, so with (2) 11 lb tanks it is possible to go for 4-5 days before refill in mid-winter conditions.

We have (2) 100Ah Battle Born (BB) batteries in our Supertramp. Our experience in cloudy mid-winter conditions suggest that it would be possible to go for 3 days with very limited solar input before recharging with the truck alternators is necessary. From this recent ski trip, I observed we were using about 60 Ah day (including using an electric kettle and Instapot). Typically, on a winter trip like this we only spend 2 nights at any one location, so recharging while driving to the next location has not been a problem. The lowest our battery bank got on this recent trip was 40%. I have removed the Victron DC/DC charger and installed #2 gauge welding cable between the trucks high current battery junction box and the camper bus bars. I control (on/off) the circuit with a high current relay connected to an upfitter switch (Ford factory installed accessory switch). While this set-up not ideal for all end-users, it works well for me since I don't mind monitoring the system while the circuit is energized. Additionally, I have observed that my alternator voltage set point is a very consistent 14.5V, which is an ideal terminal voltage for charging the BB batteries. I really don't have to worry about exceeding the recommended 14.6V maximum charging voltage for the BB camper batteries (BMS disconnect is 14.7V for the BB batteries). With the #2 conductors I typically see about a 60A initial charge rate that tapers as the BB battery voltage rises during charging. Once the BB battery voltage exceeds 14.4V the charge has tapered to less than a few amps. A couple of hours of driving is all that is required to top off the (2) BB batteries starting at 50% discharge.

Cheers,
Ken

Recent Ski Trip (Feb 5-9, 2024) - Overnight stop Penitente Canyon, Colorado BLM
Banner Photo.jpeg
Penitente Canyon.jpeg

My two favorite girls...
Monarch Paa Camp.jpeg

Tomichi Pass (11,962'), Colorado Aug 2022
Tomichi Pass.jpeg

Quartz Creek Meadow, Colorado Sep 2022
Eastern San Juan Range.jpeg

Bighorn Range, Wyoming Sep 2023
Northern Bigorn Range.jpeg

Near Hanksville, Utah Oct 2023
Utah.jpeg
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Great, detailed and interesting info and images, @knutsCO ! Was happy to see how great the Flagship LT looks and fits on a Supduty Supercab (vs the more-common Supercrew). Love the proportions and cabover doesn't stick forward, over the cab, too far. Our camper gets mounted to our Supercab next month. Our 7.3L has 3.73 rear diff which is now the standard ratio on the 7.3 vs your 3.55. They don't offer the 3.55 with 7.3L any longer. We got the electric locker as well. I expect similar or sliiiiightly better mileage to you, at those same speeds, since we won't have a lift (for now) and be on LT285/75R18 which are about 35" tall but slightly narrower than your 35 x 12.5.

We are coming from a similar pop-up camper on our Tundra that had the smaller 4.6L V8 engine. Loved that engine. At faster interstate speeds, I expect about the same mpg as the Tundra because with the camper, I usually had to lock out 6th and sometimes 5th and run 1:1 (4th gear). With camper and towing boat or enclosed trailer, always locked out 5th/6th and run 4th. I expect the 7.3L to pull 10th most of the time with the camper. This engine seems to love low rpm. I think it has around the same torque at 2,000rpm that my 4.6L had for max torque (somewhere north of 4,000rpm). The Tundra pulled great in 4th and would hum right along at about 3,200rpm at 75mph all day long. We'll see what gears the 7.3 likes with both camper and trailer. Gears 8, 9 and 10 are all overdrive so 1:1 is 7th gear. Running empty, it rarely downshifts from 10th except going up over mountain passes and that is to 9th or 8th. Will be very interesting to see where it likes to run with camper and trailer. Whatever that is, I suspect mpg will be about the same as Tundra. And one side benefit of the 445 cubic inches will be tha the lower rpm will feel less hectic even though the Tundra 4.6L has no issue, and loves to spin rpm. Where I might get worse mileage, than the Tundra, is slow going in 4 low for hours at a time, but we'll see. It helps the Superduty's 34 gallon gas tank holds 10 gallons more than the Tundra's 24 gallons.

Our 7.3 only has about 1,000 miles on it so far and on 100 mile round trips with half 80mph interstate and half 70mph highway and running empty, I'm getting around 14mpg. The same trip, slowing that down to 75mph and 65mph will get me right around 15mpg. Tundra would be 18 - 19mpg running empty on the same trip. We do this trip regularly to visit family. But running empty doesn't matter much to us as we rarely drive the pickup without either the camper load, pulling a trailer, or both.

.
 
Last edited:

knutsCO

New member
Yep, I can confirm that even loaded with the camper the 7.3 lopes along effortlessly at 1500 rpm in top gear. I’ve had a dozen fill-ups in the 14-15 mpg range (calculated), so the aerodynamics are not significantly affected by the camper…
 

Vsgfoster

Continuous Improvement
Could someone tell me the inner dimensions (depth, length, width) of the Supertramp sink? Very much appreciated.
 

klahanie

daydream believer
I have removed the Victron DC/DC charger and installed #2 gauge welding cable between the trucks high current battery junction box and the camper bus bars. I control (on/off) the circuit with a high current relay connected to an upfitter switch (Ford factory installed accessory switch). While this set-up not ideal for all end-users, it works well for me since I don't mind monitoring the system while the circuit is energized. Additionally, I have observed that my alternator voltage set point is a very consistent 14.5V, which is an ideal terminal voltage for charging the BB batteries. I really don't have to worry about exceeding the recommended 14.6V maximum charging voltage for the BB camper batteries (BMS disconnect is 14.7V for the BB batteries). With the #2 conductors I typically see about a 60A initial charge rate that tapers as the BB battery voltage rises during charging. Once the BB battery voltage exceeds 14.4V the charge has tapered to less than a few amps. A couple of hours of driving is all that is required to top off the (2) BB batteries starting at 50% discharge.
Haven't read all this tread but want to say that's pretty interesting ... that old school B2B (a wire) can still work. Is that just with a single alt ?
 

knutsCO

New member
Haven't read all this tread but want to say that's pretty interesting ... that old school B2B (a wire) can still work. Is that just with a single alt ?
Yes, it seems that despite having implemented "smart charging" on the Ford 2020-2022 Super Duty platform, it may still be possible to charge house batteries without a DC/DC converter. At least that has been my experience with the PCM calibration on my 2022 F250...

I have dual generators (240A primary with 157A secondary), but I don't think that affects the PCM commanded voltage setpoint. The excerpt from the attached Workshop Manual doc below suggests that the field coil of the secondary generator is only energized if the primary is operating at capacity. This makes sense from a fuel economy perspective, but does nothing to distribute the load between the alternators at moderate demand.

Dual Generators
Vehicles with the 7.3L 2V DEVCT engine may have dual generators. In dual generator systems, the PCM keeps the secondary generator in a standby state where it does not generate current unless the primary generator is generating full power and more current is needed to support the vehicle loads. The PCM monitors the output of the primary generator and adjusts the control setpoint of the secondary generator to cause it to provide additional current when needed.
 

Attachments

  • Charging System - System Operation and Component Description.pdf
    148.7 KB · Views: 11

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Plagiarizing my own post from another forum since we're excited to be heading to pick up our Flagship LT at the end of this week.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Camper is the standard build plus:
Battleship Gray exterior paint
Two batteries (200Ah)
Arctic Tern window on drivers side
Inside shower option
Upgrade Truma Combi to "plus" version
Upgraded optional 1,500watt inverter to a 2,000watt inverter
Ceiling L track
Kitchen L track
Added shelf inside drivers side bench seat (same shelf they use if you get a total of 3 or 4 batteries. We are not, but wanted the shelf)
Second Lagun table mount
Wired 120v passthrough
Upgrade Victron solar controller from 75v/15amp unit to 100v/20amp unit to better match the 330watt solar array

Didn't do much to the F250 Supercab since it arrived in December. Really been enjoying it, though! First things I did were removed the Sport sticker on the bed, cut air deflector valance shorter, put shorter running board brackets on the stock running boards to tuck them up a bit.

Had some cordura seat covers made to cover the leather seats and perforated leather. Those ventilation holes are a pet peeve of mine as I dislike the way they fill with grime from the way we use out pickup. Marathon seat covers are local to me. Then I put on Husky mudflaps (rear only so far because fronts don't seem to fit right). Put on the summer wheels/tires; tremor take off 18" with LT285/75R18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT. I loved that model tire on my previous pickup so stuck with them. They don't perform very well in winter, but that is why I have a second set of wheels with dedicated winter tires. The wheels/tires in the bed are my stock 20 wheels that I ran this winter with Blizzak LT tires. I do the twice-a-year swap myself. The pics below, with wheels/tires in the bed, is coming back from the carwash. I like to put away, the wheels/tires I take off, clean rather than rolling them out next change and installing them filthy. I crayon the inside sidewall to identify which corner of the pickup I take them off so I can rotate them appropriately when I re-install them next season.

Latest project was pulling out 60% back seat and spending several 30 minutes sessions staring at it trying to decide how to retro-fit the homemade platform from my Tundra. Finally made a plan and worked on it over a couple weekends (with a break for part orders and painting and carpeting platform). Added D rings so I can cinch down a cargo net over everything I load back there to at least slow it down if I ever get in a wreck. One can see the Pro Power Onboard inverter that takes up a fair bit of space under the platform, but I stuffed all my tools and recovery gear under there and it all fits well.

Still need to rewire the Ford Factory winch. Dealership did not do a good job there. Routed the wires to the second battery in a weird spot and zip ties them to odd things (like the A/C lines or similar). I'll reroute/rewire as the weather warms up. It's functional currently, but just not routed or secured well. I also removed the winch hook and thimble and converted the end of the winch line to a loop. I had to undo the long bury splice from Warn (stitched, but stitched sloppily as the thread went between rope bundle strands). I tied a lock brummel splice which is a bit more complicated without having access to both ends of the rope, but there is a technique that is a bit more complicated, but not too bad. I'm also working up a front license plate bracket to cover the winch.

No suspension mods as of yet. Payload on my particular pickup is 3,200lb which is pretty good for an F250 without any "camper" or "snowplow" packages. Our last pop-up camper's dry weight was only about 100lb lighter than Supertramp. Loaded with water, food, camping gear, recovery gear, and my wife and I, our load weight was about 2,400lb with no tongue weight. Add bike rack and bikes adds 100lbs. Enclosed trailer or boat trailer tongue weight adds about 200 - 300lbs of tongue weight. Will be nice to be a fair bit under max payload rather than a fair bit over like on our last rig (pop up camper on Tundra with airbags).

This first year with this camper we'll stick with stock suspension and then decide if we want suspension lift/shocks, only shocks with stock sprints, or nothing. We offload and store our camper 5 winter months/year so we can't simply re-spring for our "camper loaded" weight as it would beat us silly in the winter months when running empty or towing trailers with light tongue weight (300lb). Plus, I like a pickup with rake, rather than leveled, when unloaded. And, when loaded, this should settle to be a fairly leveled ride height. Will supplement with airbags only if necessary.


20240304_153322.jpg

20240304_153413.jpg

20240304_153520.jpg

20240304_153618.jpg

20240309_173728.jpg

20240310_115831.jpg

20240310_125752.jpg

20240310_125943.jpg
 

Vsgfoster

Continuous Improvement
Plagiarizing my own post from another forum since we're excited to be heading to pick up our Flagship LT at the end of this week.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Camper is the standard build plus:
Battleship Gray exterior paint
Two batteries (200Ah)
Arctic Tern window on drivers side
Inside shower option
Upgrade Truma Combi to "plus" version
Upgraded optional 1,500watt inverter to a 2,000watt inverter
Ceiling L track
Kitchen L track
Added shelf inside drivers side bench seat (same shelf they use if you get a total of 3 or 4 batteries. We are not, but wanted the shelf)
Second Lagun table mount
Wired 120v passthrough
Upgrade Victron solar controller from 75v/15amp unit to 100v/20amp unit to better match the 330watt solar array

Didn't do much to the F250 Supercab since it arrived in December. Really been enjoying it, though! First things I did were removed the Sport sticker on the bed, cut air deflector valance shorter, put shorter running board brackets on the stock running boards to tuck them up a bit.

Had some cordura seat covers made to cover the leather seats and perforated leather. Those ventilation holes are a pet peeve of mine as I dislike the way they fill with grime from the way we use out pickup. Marathon seat covers are local to me. Then I put on Husky mudflaps (rear only so far because fronts don't seem to fit right). Put on the summer wheels/tires; tremor take off 18" with LT285/75R18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT. I loved that model tire on my previous pickup so stuck with them. They don't perform very well in winter, but that is why I have a second set of wheels with dedicated winter tires. The wheels/tires in the bed are my stock 20 wheels that I ran this winter with Blizzak LT tires. I do the twice-a-year swap myself. The pics below, with wheels/tires in the bed, is coming back from the carwash. I like to put away, the wheels/tires I take off, clean rather than rolling them out next change and installing them filthy. I crayon the inside sidewall to identify which corner of the pickup I take them off so I can rotate them appropriately when I re-install them next season.

Latest project was pulling out 60% back seat and spending several 30 minutes sessions staring at it trying to decide how to retro-fit the homemade platform from my Tundra. Finally made a plan and worked on it over a couple weekends (with a break for part orders and painting and carpeting platform). Added D rings so I can cinch down a cargo net over everything I load back there to at least slow it down if I ever get in a wreck. One can see the Pro Power Onboard inverter that takes up a fair bit of space under the platform, but I stuffed all my tools and recovery gear under there and it all fits well.

Still need to rewire the Ford Factory winch. Dealership did not do a good job there. Routed the wires to the second battery in a weird spot and zip ties them to odd things (like the A/C lines or similar). I'll reroute/rewire as the weather warms up. It's functional currently, but just not routed or secured well. I also removed the winch hook and thimble and converted the end of the winch line to a loop. I had to undo the long bury splice from Warn (stitched, but stitched sloppily as the thread went between rope bundle strands). I tied a lock brummel splice which is a bit more complicated without having access to both ends of the rope, but there is a technique that is a bit more complicated, but not too bad. I'm also working up a front license plate bracket to cover the winch.

No suspension mods as of yet. Payload on my particular pickup is 3,200lb which is pretty good for an F250 without any "camper" or "snowplow" packages. Our last pop-up camper's dry weight was only about 100lb lighter than Supertramp. Loaded with water, food, camping gear, recovery gear, and my wife and I, our load weight was about 2,400lb with no tongue weight. Add bike rack and bikes adds 100lbs. Enclosed trailer or boat trailer tongue weight adds about 200 - 300lbs of tongue weight. Will be nice to be a fair bit under max payload rather than a fair bit over like on our last rig (pop up camper on Tundra with airbags).

This first year with this camper we'll stick with stock suspension and then decide if we want suspension lift/shocks, only shocks with stock sprints, or nothing. We offload and store our camper 5 winter months/year so we can't simply re-spring for our "camper loaded" weight as it would beat us silly in the winter months when running empty or towing trailers with light tongue weight (300lb). Plus, I like a pickup with rake, rather than leveled, when unloaded. And, when loaded, this should settle to be a fairly leveled ride height. Will supplement with airbags only if necessary.


View attachment 825132

View attachment 825133

View attachment 825134

View attachment 825135

View attachment 825136

View attachment 825139

View attachment 825137

View attachment 825138
We are picking ours up tomorrow!
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Congrats
We are picking ours up tomorrow!

Congrats @Vsgfoster ! Wonder if either of us will get the milestone "Number 100"? Over the winter, they were on track to hit #100 much earlier than March, but I didn't see the announcement on any social media so just might be one of ours.
 

Vsgfoster

Continuous Improvement
Congrats


Congrats @Vsgfoster ! Wonder if either of us will get the milestone "Number 100"? Over the winter, they were on track to hit #100 much earlier than March, but I didn't see the announcement on any social media so just might be one of ours.
No, I figured I would be close to 100 so I asked about it back in November. They said that was going to one of their team members that was buying it. I'm sure they will have a celebration etc.

We are #94 so I would assume you will be #95 or 96.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,039
Messages
2,901,516
Members
229,352
Latest member
Baartmanusa
Top