Talk me into or out of a LR3

[huskyfargo]

JK unlimited under warranty if you intend on taking it past the range of a towtruck.

Been there, done that. A warranty won't get you out of the woods. My JK was junk when I needed it to perform. Towing my VERY lightweight off-road trailer, it sucked! I had to have the crappy transmission replaced twice, and it would barely go 60mph with any kind of load. Of course, the newer engine/tranny combo is better, but a friend of mine is the service manager at a local dealership, and he says they still have plenty of problems.
Any vehicle is gonna have its share of problems, but my JK was in the shop much more often than it was on the road/trail. My LR3 has proved to be more reliable than any other vehicle I've ever owned, including 2 tahoes, a Pathfinder, and my JK.

 

[Saharicon]

Great info Husky.

Ever since jeep went away from the inline 6 I haven't had a real urge to get back into one. I just think the JKU looks pretty cool.

Every responsible ounce in me says to get a Toyota because of the reliability but I can't get over how well they hold value and paying that much for a used truck when they are so bland on the inside.

As far as the warranty comment, that isn't really relevant to me at all. I've never had a vehicle with a warranty and a warranty isn't going to do crap for me the places I am going to go.

I've changed motors and trannys on the trail, things breaking are just part of the game. If warrantees are a concern I think you should probably stick to plush highways.

Sounds like LRs are like BMWs. Keep up with the preventative maintenance and you will be good.

Keep it coming guys


Sent from my fancy city machine.

 

[Colin Hughes]

I keep looking at an LR3 too but for me, the daily commute of 100 miles round trip keeps me from pulling the trigger. The old 300TDi D1 gets 26-27 mpgs. Can't argue with that and I can't afford to run two trucks.
Land Rover has released a new, improved EAS pump (the original was crappy) and after install, needs to be programmed with a Testbook or Autologic. They appear to be a much better unit. Front suspension needs to be replaced every 80,000-100,000 kms it seems. These are the two main service issues we see coming through the shop. If you can find a used one that has had this done, you should be good for a little while.

 

[fjatl]

I actually have both a 2007 LR3 and a 2013 JKUR. LR3 is great for the longer trips with the fam, but the Jeep is more fun (IMHO).
This is actually my second LR3...I had less problems with the first, but nothing major with the current one...


Sent from my iPhone

 

[nwoods]

Though the off road capabilities are similar in stock form, the LR3 and JKU platforms are worlds apart and don't compare well. I would go for the LR3 if you do a lot of driving on the street compared to off road driving. The LR3 is just FAR more comfortable as a daily driver. The JKU can be built up to be far more capable off road, but it has to be built up to get to that point, and that changes the on-road behavior even more. Once you've invested serious coin in the JKU for upgrades, it is likely to be cheaper to own and maintain overall, whearas the LR3 will require brakes, tires, and suspension bushings more often. However, the flexibilty and versatility of the LR3 is unparallelled, and the amount of storage room is cavernous compared to the Jeeps. Plus, the LR3 has a proper tailgate.

 

[DVD]

It may not be a criterion for you, but my wife and I (well mostly her) wanted a vehicle that we could sleep in. We do a lot of dispersed camping, sometimes in bear country, and she wanted to be able to sleep in the rig. We previously had a Tacoma (with topper), but had to leave the tailgate open to sleep in the bed. (Oh and I have had to wake up with rain on the face and then scrunch in to close the tailgate.) The LR3 seats fold totally flat, and allows a full double air mattress inside. And all the glass makes for a very open feeling (although the roof rack somewhat detracts-trade-offs). Good luck!
-Dirk

 

[Saharicon]

It may not be a criterion for you, but my wife and I (well mostly her) wanted a vehicle that we could sleep in. We do a lot of dispersed camping, sometimes in bear country, and she wanted to be able to sleep in the rig. We previously had a Tacoma (with topper), but had to leave the tailgate open to sleep in the bed. (Oh and I have had to wake up with rain on the face and then scrunch in to close the tailgate.) The LR3 seats fold totally flat, and allows a full double air mattress inside. And all the glass makes for a very open feeling (although the roof rack somewhat detracts-trade-offs). Good luck!
-Dirk

That is actually an amazing point! Thank you for sharing.




Sent from my fancy city machine.

 

[PhyrraM]

....... The LR3 seats fold totally flat, and allows a full double air mattress inside. And all the glass makes for a very open feeling (although the roof rack somewhat detracts-trade-offs). Good luck!
-Dirk

I'll second that. The boys and I have done it many times.

 

[4Rescue]

What about the LC-100??? Far more comparable to the LR3 then the other two and IMO the best choice in that "segment".

Really, the trucks you mention are sort incomparable... If you want a Pick-up, get the Taco, if you want a top-off, up-scale rock buggy, get the JK (I don't mean that in a bad way at all BTW) but if you're looking for a "wagon" style body with trail capability then the LC100 and LR3 are far more comparable. The LC has a locker, it's supremely reliable and every bit as capable as an LR3. Oddly enough, we came across an LR group out on a trail ride out on Santiam Pass this weekend... They were looking over an LR3 whose adjustable suspension had just had a hissy fit. I didn't get into it as they were capable enough guys and I wasn't trying to "but in" (I did however take a few phone numbers and promise to send a few texts to their families letting them know they were alive but had had a mechanical etc. Least we could do...) and I have no idea if it was electrical in nature or if some of that great razor sharp lava rock had gotten in there and cut something up. Anyway, the main thing the guy kept saying was that he was gonna replace the air-sus. asap... The Terrain was plenty challenging in some places with even the go-rounds being something that your average SUV couldn't get through, so the LR3 was certainly capable, but IMO the 100-series could have walked through the same obstacles and wouldn't have ended up on the side of the trail. Another thing to consider is that you're gonna pay just as much for a possibly questionable Land Rover as you are for a nice Cruiser and the Toyota is less likely to have problems in the first place. The Rovers are marketed as an "upper crust" vehicle (not saying anything about members who run them, but that's just how LR likes to promote them and dealers like to sell them) so they command a higher price as long as they're shiny on the outside. Toyotas aren't cheap, but het buying demographics are different. Between the two, the Toyota is less likely to nickle and dime you over time and you KNOW you're gonna get at LEAST 200K miles out of any Toyota if not 3. The LR3 is a capable rig, don't get me wrong. It's not gonna go run the hammers, but then a Toyota Buggy isn't gonna tow your boat across the country in comfort with the AC blowing. They have nice, quiet cabins and your wife won't make up excuses on why you should take her car. Don't mistake my love of the Cruiser -vs- the Rover as me not liking the Rover, I just think that in a scientific comparison, the Toyota wins. I'd rather have the possibility of low-frequency mechanical failure then the "GOTCHA!!" type electronic gremlins that can be so dam hard to chase out and fix.

YMMV.

Cheers

Dave

 

[LR Max]

I'm heavily considering an LR3. If I'm able to land a job that shortens my commute, I think I'll go for it.

Been looking around and there are a number of LR3's with fairly low miles in the sub-$20k range. 40-60k on the clock and under $20k, seems pretty good to me.

I know it'll have its issues. It is a rover. But I think I'll be putting less than 10k on the car per year so all of a sudden that and fuel costs are significantly reduced. We probably won't be road tripping the car a lot but will definitely see a ton of in-town use and light off roading. Possibly even towing the 109.

On that note, on the towing aspect of these vehicles, I really like the look of the aftermarket tow hitches. For some reason, the stock tow hitch looks like it is about to twist off the back of the truck at anytime. Also the aftermarket hitches are like, $200 instead of $500. What about trailer hitch wiring? Is it like the D2's, you just pay the extra coin for the factory wiring harness and its super easy to install?

 

[rockwood]

Not a bad call to make as long as you avoid the 05-06 years. They really needed the time to debug them. As for those who discover their wives taking their LR3s, I say, its time for you to put on your pants!

 

[nwoods]

We probably won't be road tripping the car a lot but will definitely see a ton of in-town use and light off roading.

What would you use for road trips if not the LR3? Not using the LR3 on a road trip is like buying a tricycle for the Tour de France.

On that note, on the towing aspect of these vehicles, I really like the look of the aftermarket tow hitches. For some reason, the stock tow hitch looks like it is about to twist off the back of the truck at anytime. Also the aftermarket hitches are like, $200 instead of $500. What about trailer hitch wiring? Is it like the D2's, you just pay the extra coin for the factory wiring harness and its super easy to install?

Remember that Ford built the LR3, so it uses the Ford F-150 brake harness and controller. It's plug and play. Yes, the OEM hitch is silly, expensive, and useless off road. IMHO, all of the Land Rover KIT accessories are poorly designed. They are purely cosmetic.

 

[Mack73]

Remember that Ford built the LR3, so it uses the Ford F-150 brake harness and controller. It's plug and play. Yes, the OEM hitch is silly, expensive, and useless off road. IMHO, all of the Land Rover KIT accessories are poorly designed. They are purely cosmetic.

Following up on nwoods - Yes get the factory trailer wiring. Easy install, all you have to do is remove the driver's rear brake light and connect 2 plugs. There are usually a couple on ebay for not too much.
Then yes grab a ford brake controller and it also just simply connects to a plug already under the dash.

 

[LR Max]

What would you use for road trips if not the LR3? Not using the LR3 on a road trip is like buying a tricycle for the Tour de France.

Right now its just the g/f and I, and a lot of times we are staying strictly on pavement for such a road trip. Her new Hyundai Elantra is REALLY good for pavement work. Also gets awesome MPG and is comfortable. On top of that we pack light, rarely using half of the trunk. So yeah, for a trip to the beach (not a driving-on-beach...beach), just hop in that ride and enjoy 40 mpg all the way here. Also typically the car will stay parked except for an errand or two.

However for camping or other outdoor shenanigans, or going with a bunch of other people or carrying half of a kitchen, or if a mini-me is randomly spawned, you are correct. The LR3 is hard to beat.

Thanks for the info on the info on the wiring harness deal. I figured they kept the super simple setup and ebay would be the place to get it. I bought a trailer brake controller for my dad's yukon a couple years ago. Might see if I can get a connector wire for it unless the connector wire cost > ford brake controller cost.

 

[A.J.M]

I have a 05 model Disco3, it's sitting on 109k but is a diesel being as i live in the UK.

The basic mechanical parts are the same though.

By 100k it should have had the following changed for new parts.
Front wishbones, if it knocks going over a bump, then that's the ball joints needing changed, if it knocks if you hit the brakes, then the inner wishbone bushes are shot. Chances are the bolts are siezed in place, (mine were and many UK ones are, due to the salt etc we put on the roads every winter ) so they need cut out and new bolts fitted with the new wishbones.
A wheel alignment is needed after this, which requires the car to be told to go into "tight tolerance mode" then the wheel alignment can be done.


The ARB bushes will likely need to be changed, this can be done on the driveway if you want to. It's a basic job that takes an hour or so for the fronts and similar for the back.

The gearbox oil and diff oils are recommended to get changed every 100k, the gearbox should be done every 70k if used for regular towing.

The air suspension is reliable if looked after, it has covers to protect the bags from damage so a tear in one is from abuse and being a twat with it. There is a new style compressor as used on the Disco4/LR4, this can be fitted to the 3, but needs a software change to run properly. Height sensors can act up, but a code reader will show up what's wrong and then you can swap out the broken part.

For off roading, how you use it will determine the level of prep. For light use, a decent set of tyres and a front guard will be fine. If your wanting to go more into the wild, then plenty of member's here have under body protection, rock sliders etc. Some of the trucks that are on here are superbly turned out and i'm using a few as base ideas for my own.

It will take you most places in comfort and it's on road manners is excellent for a large 4x4.

The Disco4 with the 3.0 tdv6 engine has won "What Car's" large towing event for the 4th year running, the old 3 has won it a few times as well. It's regarded as one of the best all round 4x4s on sale in the UK and THE best tower. Take that as you wish but the car mag has been running for decades and is well regarded as a non bull**** mag.

Electrics can be fitted in an hour, i fitted mine 2 weeks ago and i use the removable tow bar as i only do light towing. The "heavy duty" LR version is really good, and can be removed with 2 bolts and unlocking the centre part if needed to be taken away to help off roading.

I love mine, it's a fantastic all round car for my needs, the mpg is a bit of a sore point but thats only because it's $9.94 for a UK gallon of diesel, so a full tank here is $185. I bet you US folks don't pay that.