Well, we've been on the road for a spell, and reliable internet has been difficult to come by. What I have found, I've wound up using to keep the bosses fed. We've had a few more updates.
http://www.thedrive.com/article/2476/inevitable-virginia
http://www.thedrive.com/article/2543/run-to-the-atlantic
http://www.thedrive.com/article/2569/florida-of-all-places-and-of-all-florida-the-keys
http://www.thedrive.com/article/2622/running-toward-the-fears-of-fatherhood
We made for the coast, running through Richmond and spending our first real night at First Landing State Park. It's a place I used to hit every summer in college. We'd pile up a car with as many paying bodies as we could find, then haul to the bay. It was always quieter there than down in Virginia Beach, and we liked that. Cheaper, too. Winter still had ahold of Virginia, and it was chilly on the beach. Still, it's hard to bet a state park that gives you a relatively secluded spot that backs up to the dunes.
Like I say in the piece, I wanted to start at the ocean. I don't know why. Maybe it was because it had been so long since I saw the water. Or maybe it was an apology to my wife for making her live in a landlocked state for the past 8 years. And then for asking her to sell everything and move into a tiny tin can on the back of a truck. Either way, we made for spots neither of us had been to since before we were married.
Once we'd hit Virginia Beach, we could have just as easily wandered south down the inland route. It's quicker, by far. But we had no place to be, and this was a rare chance to run down the Outer Banks in the off season. This, of course, meant a stop at the holiest of sites: Digger Dungeon.
I remember that thing being bigger, though the last time I came through that way I was in a two-wheel drive Nissan Hardbody. Times change, I guess. At least I feel slightly better about my idiot tire choice.
We stopped for lunch at the Black Pelican in Kitty Hawk. It's been a family favorite for as long as I can remember, as much for the atmosphere as anything else. It's the old Life Saving Station #6, where the Wright Brothers came for weather reports when they were down here trying to strap themselves to a spruce and canvas kite. Sitting there, watching the water bash itself against the shore. It finally felt good to be doing what we're doing.
I know that sounds insane, but it's true. The first three weeks of this thing, it felt like I'd made a huge mistake. The three of us were as stressed as we'd ever been as a family, trying to work out where to stay, how long to drive, how long it would take us to get there, what to cook, when to eat, how to put the girl to bed without having to sleep ourselves. All I could think of was the comfortable nest I'd built, then abandoned. I missed being able to just put our daughter down and let her wander the house her great grandfather built.
The scenery helped. I've always loved the Outer Banks, and seeing them largely abandoned was a treat. The rash of development and cheesy beach stores is still there, but at least the traffic is thin. It gets better the further south you go, and by the time you hit the Hatteras National Seashore, the place looks largely as it has for the past few eons. The road gets straight, the dunes threaten to take over the two lane, and the marsh fights to drown anything manmade. More than anything, the park makes you realize just how badly we've ruined an otherwise gorgeous place. We'd made one sizable mistake: most of the national parks wouldn't be open until April, which meant all of the good camping on the banks as well as the vast majority of the OHV trails, were closed.
We caught the afternoon ferry to Ocracoke and ran out that island, too. The only place to stay was Teeters Campground, a private RV park.
Ugh. Few things wear on me as hard as a "campground" with a higher population density than my old neighborhood. Still, Ocracoke seemed like a neat little town, and with no ferry south until the next day, we were stuck. Teeters was nice and quiet, though, so there's that.
It's a two-hour ferry ride to Cedar Island, so we spent a good chunk of the day watching the sound slide by from the cab of the truck. They let you get out and wander around, but both girls were napping, and I needed the time to write, so it worked out.
That left little time to find a spot, get set up, and make dinner before dark. We've been hounding both Hipcamp and Freecampsites, and for once, the latter turned up a good spot.
Oyster Point is a primitive campground. $8 to the Iron Ranger an the place is yours for the night. All but about two other spots were open when we were there, and the place was quiet as the grave. It's just a flat spot of land up against the Newport River, but it's awfully pretty. For those interested:
Lat: 34.767563
Lon: -76.763277
We were on a pretty solid press south. We had some friends who'd offered to share their campsite with us in the Keys, which meant we had to get there in time to meet them. So, we didn't spend any more than one night at a time in any one place. It's a rough way to start this sort of thing. Drive, make camp, sleep, break camp, drive, etc.
We had time to stop at Holden Beach. It's a little strip of sand outside of Shallotte, NC. My extended family has been going there for years, and were kind enough to take me along as a kid. In some ways, it was more of a stable home than where I spent the rest of my time. It's a place I love, and I talked Beth into taking our Honeymoon there when we got hitched. There's exactly nothing to do. Just eat, drink, read, etc. It's kind of perfect. We were so close, I couldn't resist swinging in for a picnic lunch on the beach. We busted out the kite, let our daughter try a few steps on the soft sand, and had PB&Js. Nothing big, but the most perfect few hours. It was a good reminder that yes, we'd done the right thing, even if it didn't always feel that way. If you're ever down there, swing by Cappuccino by the Sea and tell Nancy we say hi.
As good as Holden was, we had to push through Myrtle Beach to get to our next stop. Spring Break season had caught us, and traffic was predictably horrible. Stop and go is one thing in a family sedan. It's something else in an 11,000-lb, four-wheel drive house.
I managed to keep from punting anyone into next week, and we made it to Huntington Beach. It's a really pretty spot sullied by a really packed campground. Again, if there's more street traffic than my old road, I'm not sure you can call yourself a "campground." Still, it was mostly full of retirees who wanted to pinch the kiddo's cheeks and hear about what we were up to. It's hard for me to stomach the crowd, or being able to look into a 50' RV with massive flatscreen, but I have to keep in mind that the East Coast won't last forever.
It's funny how much state parks can vary. From the overly civilized Huntington to the more perfect Edisto Island. We were there for opening day, and managed to snag a perfect site, right up against the dunes. Nothing like falling asleep to the sound of the surf. The town's tiny, and a long drive from the main inland roads. There are live oaks everywhere, all covered in Spanish moss. It's as old south as you can possibly get. Then, you round a corner and find yourself right on the beach. I really, really wanted to spend more time there, but the park only had the site open for one night.
The view's not bad, either.
We pushed straight through Georgia with the intention of boondocking on the beach at Fernandina Beach, but Amelia Island was in full swing. As a result, the place was an absolute madhouse. Each park we stopped gave us the same "No Room At The Inn" line. That is, until we found Huguenot State Park. It was a little pricey, but largely vacant. Most of the sites were right on the sound. We got in, set up camp, and watched a few freighters sail through on their way to Jacksonville. All pretty neat stuff. There's a naval station across the way, and at first, it was cool to see the ships docked. Then the helicopters started up. Touch and goes form 5 in the afternoon until 9 at night. Four hours of getting buzzed by Blackhawks. Fortunately, it didn't really bother the kid, but it about drove me insane, especially given that we
paid $15 for a site with no water or electricity. When dawn rolled around, we knew it. The station got started with a few foghorn blasts and the national anthem. Never again.
So far, we'd been lucky enough to be able to secure a campsite for at least one night a day in advance, but the further south we went, the harder that got. It turns out, Floridians have gotten wise to the snowbird crowd. As soon as the parks open up reservations for the next year, locals go in and reserve blocks in each park. They'll share them with friends, etc, and if no one wants them, they'll cancel at the last minute. Most parks keep 10 percent of their sites open for drive up campers, but they won't tell you whether or not those sites are taken over the phone. That is, you have to drive up to know whether or not anything's available. As you can imagine, that makes planning a route nearly impossible.
Throw in the 75th anniversary of Daytona Bike Week, and things were getting stressful. I really, really didn't want to have to do the parking lot thing with the wife and kid. We decided to take a flier and move away from the coast, inland. We wound up at St John's River, a wildlife management area with a rustic campground. We had the place to ourselves for $8. Sold.
We listened to owls in the live oaks and watched the thin sliver of the moon rise through the palmettos. The bugs were a nightmare, especially the deer ticks, but otherwise, it was a fantastic spot.
From St John's, we had a decision. Push all the way to the Keys in one shot or stop somewhere in between. With the kiddo, we opted for the latter, and wound up at Long Pine Key in the Everglades. Nothing to write home about, really, though the place does have the advantage of being a first come, first serve spot, which means it can't be reserved out. Good to know. The next day we jousted south again, fighting all the other idiots running for the Keys.
That water, man. It's no trick of the lens. It really is that color. So shallow you can wade nearly half a mile out and be no deeper than your chest at high tide. Unreal.
By the time we made it to Long Key, I was convinced there wasn't anything on this Earth that could be worth dealing with three days of Florida traffic, heat, and mosquito bites. Then we pulled up to our campsite.
They have everyone packed in, but you're sleeping about 20 feet from the water, and there's plenty of foliage between each site. The no see ums are hell, and it was unseasonably hot (highs in the upper 80s), but it's hard to argue with a view like that. The down side is, the Keys are popular, and at no point are you more than a mile from the main highway. Our campsite was within eyeshot of Florida 1. The Harleys ride though with their open pipes and blaring stereos during the day, and the semis roll through at night. Not exactly relaxing.
We hung out in the Keys for five days. Arrived on my 31st birthday. Celebrated with a lobster reuben and enough hefeweizen to drown a gull. It was good to see some familiar faces, have an extra set of hands to throw the kiddo to for a second. It was, in general, good.
I was happy to leave the Keys, but sad to leave our people. The place is worth visiting once, but it's not really my speed. Too many retirees from too many states up north. Too few locals. Hard to get a feel for what the place is really like. It's too much like some real estate developer's idea of Florida than the actual state. I just want the place to stop trying to convince me it's paradise.
When we left, we went north again. Stopped at Myakka State Forest. Another primitive site in the middle of a saw palm forest. Another perfectly quiet night. As far as I'm concerned, you can keep the Keys.
We left early. The time may have changed, but the kiddo hasn't. She's usually up about an hour before dawn, which means we are too. Still, it's nice to get on the road early. We can get a good four hours of travel out of the kiddo before she's absolutely done, which is fine by me. It gives us all some time to rest and take in where we are.
We made Manatee Springs State Park the next night. It's a busy place, full of kids and families, but the spot's absolutely gorgeous. I'd never seen the freshwater springs before. The water's astoundingly clear, and divers explore the sinks all over the property. Again, it's one of those places I'd love to spend more time. Also, it has me thinking about how to strap a kayak to the back of the rig...
That pretty much brings us up to date. Sorry for the crappy photos. I'm running out of data as it is, even using the crap shots from the S6. I'll try and up the plan shortly.