The Build Has Begun!!

[EXPO365]

So it looks like we'll be getting 4 Interstar GC2-XHD-S batteries for the house bank setup for a total of 464 amp hours. I want to go with the Morningstar MPPT. I'm wondering if I should go with the 45 or the 60?

I think we'll be mounting two 100w panels with another two more later down the road.

 

[rlrenz]

Since a solar charging system is on-line 12x7, you definitely want a smart controller to avoid turning your batteries into crispy-critters.

If you are looking at conventional battery chargers, take a look at the July issue of MOTORHOME magazine - it has a nice write up on the Xantrex TRUECharge-2 battery chargers. I've also heard enough good things about an IOTA battery charger that I bought a 55 amp IOTA for my ambulance.

 

[patoz]

Since I've done very little research so far in the area of Solar Panels and charging system, I can't be be much help here, but when you get all figured out post up so we'll know too.

 

[EXPO365]

HELP PLEASE!!!!!! So we ran into a MAJOR snag...we lost power to the house! The main power switch on the console is no good and I need a replacement. I tried a off the shelf switch but still got a dead interior.

Everything was working fine before I disconnected the console it fix my fuel leak.

The old switch will kick a relay in the panel room, but the lite doesn't come one.

Oh, and the rest of the console switches work fine. The outer lights are ok also. Strobes, floods, and light bars good.

I'm confused....

 

[rlrenz]

First of all, I see the "Module Disconnect" switch on your panel is off . Most panels have a MODULE switch that has to be on to power up the module - why yours is labeled MODULE DISCONNECT is a bit confusing --- do you have to turn the switch on to connect the module, or turn it on to disconnect the module? Flip is and see if it helps.

The way these things are sometimes wired is that the light shows that the relay is "on", so I'd think about a loose connector or a blown fuse. Think back - what did you disconnect to remove the console - did everything get reconnected correctly? Generally, the panel just controls relays, so the actual current through the front panel is usually fairly low - switches don't fail very often.

The fact that you replaced the switch with no change points to a non-switch problem, but if you want a new switch, check with Chris at Select-Tech Ambulance. He can probably match your switch from the photos you have in this posting.

 

[patoz]

One thing I see is, it looks like the area in the circle has overheated because both the switch and the connector are discolored. Also, was the lead indicated by the arrow connected to anything before you started working on it?

 

[EXPO365]

One thing I see is, it looks like the area in the circle has overheated because both the switch and the connector are discolored. Also, was the lead indicated by the arrow connected to anything before you started working on it?

View attachment 290380

The open lead was never connected, good eye on the discoloring. That power in and the terminal on the switch was corroded and open between the outer terminal and the terminal inside the switch itself. I was able to disassemble it and repair it.

Power goes in then up to the light in the switch. Then down to the furthest lead on the left. (Which goes to the strobe switch and to the main panel.)

When the switch is thrown the two ground terminals on the left are connected.

 

[patoz]

Glad I could help! BTW, I charge $84.50 per hour with a 1 hour minimum consultation fee; and I accept cash, all major credit cards, and Paypal, but no checks. Just Kidding!

That is a common problem with that type of switch terminal, especially if it gets overloaded amperage wise. Even though you repaired it temporarily, I'd get it replaced asap because any bad connection creates resistance, which results in heat build up and cause an electrical fire.

 

[EXPO365]

Glad I could help! BTW, I charge $84.50 per hour with a 1 hour minimum consultation fee; and I accept cash, all major credit cards, and Paypal, but no checks. Just Kidding!

That is a common problem with that type of switch terminal, especially if it gets overloaded amperage wise. Even though you repaired it temporarily, I'd get it replaced asap because any bad connection creates resistance, which results in heat build up and cause an electrical fire.

I'm gonna contact the company who makes it tomorrow and see if I can get a replacement. I really hope it gets it back in action.

 

[EXPO365]

The fact that you replaced the switch with no change points to a non-switch problem, but if you want a new switch, check with Chris at Select-Tech Ambulance. He can probably match your switch from the photos you have in this posting.

Thanks dude! Chris had an exact replacement for me!!!!

 

[EXPO365]

UPDATE:

The on-board water system is almost finished! I'm just waiting on a couple of check valves then we can fire it up.

Our system contains 40gal of fresh water, and a instant hot water heater powered by propane. I'm running a Shurflo on-demand pump.

The system is plumbed with PEX tubing and push fit connectors of easy repairs if necessary.

One issue we still need to figure out is a grey water tank for the sink. It sit directly over the fresh water tank, so most likely we will just add a second tank above the existing one to catch sink water.

I was able to sneek the city water hookup into a nice spot. The back side of the hookup is behind a access panel below the sink.

Cutting a hole into the side of any vehicle is always a bit nerve racking, especially when your pilot drill snaps mid cut. It cause a few scratches but lucky the hookup covers them.

 

[EXPO365]

A few more...
City water hookup

Sink and faucet

Eccotemp hot water heater

Finished shower enclosure

 

[patoz]

Man, you have been busy and it's coming along very nicely!

Considering how you mounted your city water connection, I take you're not worried about anyone putting anything in your tank or system. Most campers in Europe and Australia that I have seen pictures of are using a fill with a locking door on it, and it's getting to be the norm here in the USA also. It's ashame that it's even something to have to consider, but given what's going on this day and age, I guess it's just reality.

Originally, I was going to use the same thing you did, but after reading some stories about that situation I started looking for some type of locking system and not just the boxes with the plastic door either. One of the things I looked at was a billet aluminum fuel door that could possibly be mounted over the water fill, providing it doesn't protrude outside of the body. If it does, it could be mounted from the inside and recessed using a spacer. These also come in square and rectangle shapes.

The sink looks really good sitting there, and I assume you're going to use a shower rod & curtain that 'bows' into the cabin to give the person in the shower a little more elbow room, right? I sure wish mine had a tall compartment in that same spot, because it's the perfect location for the shower whether it's inside or out.

I'm also curious to see how well that Eccotemp water heater works. Is it going to be vented out the back side somehow?

BTW, I haven't forgotten about the stretcher brackets we discussed. I found a scrap yard here with three ambulances in it, but the owner doesn't want to part them out. The guy I talked to told me to wait about three weeks and check back if they don't sell, so that's what I'm waiting on. They also have a bunch of other goodies that I want.

 

[bobrenz]

Pat, my water fill will be located inside what used to be the oxygen-back board compartment. The water tanks will be on the floor of the compartment, with a shelf above them.

 

[patoz]

Pat, my water fill will be located inside what used to be the oxygen-back board compartment. The water tanks will be on the floor of the compartment, with a shelf above them.

Bob, will you be able to close the door and still be hooked up to city water via a hose if you do that, or are you not concerned about that?

Since I have to build and install a new panel to cover the front of the module anyway, I've actually thought about building in a recessed area with a locking door for all of the connections, if there is clearance behind it.