The next step was to work on the hatch. So Beth traced the shape of the hatch curve onto ¾ inch plywood added 1 ½ inch thickness and cut it out with the saber saw . Then we traced out 7 more. And I got the job to rough cut them out.
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Then Beth routed them to match the master spar. I was absent for this part because I had to take my 16 year old son for driving lessons. I think I had the worse of the two jobs, using a tool that can shred the flesh off your bones is far less scary than driving with a teen.
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When I returned we cut the hinge to size. We are using the hinge available from So-cal. It's coolio in the way it is setup and functions, kind of like a hurricane hinge, but new and improved..
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Their directions were very good. We attached the hinge to the trailer side of the galley, so we could fit the cross pieces. Then we assembled the spars to the top and bottom with pocket joints reinforced with triangular blocks.
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Detail of upper side. Showing double thickness of oak to we used to provide adequate strength to attach hinge.
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That was as much as we were able to accomplish that weekend. This weekend we were back on hatch detail. We started by adding cross pieces to strengthen the spars and to provide places to attach edges of the outer skin. At this point we realized we could have just made the hatch 5 foot long and saved ourselves aggravation.
Oh well… maybe next build. For now we get to use a full 5 foot sheet...and add a little section to finish the length
The next step was to sand the hatch skeleton smooth. Then we installed the hatch. We decided that we wanted the T-handled latch workings hidden in the hatch. However at 1/½ inches thick there wasn’t enough room to do that easily. So Beth cut apiece of oak to fit between the spars and routed out an area to inset the mechanism. The mechanism was bolted to this on the inside and then the whole thing was attached to the spars.
Inside view of latch panel. The drywall screws will be replaced with more decorative, stainless steel screws.
Then holes were drilled to allow the rods to pass. The rods were attached with cotter pins and then cut to length, flush to the sides when the mechanism was set to open.
After the latch was done, we noted the measurements for the location of the t-handle spindle that will need to be drilled later. Then we applied the first layer of Baltic birch . Applying liquid nails to the spars and then clamping and stapling it down.
Next weekend we will put down the second layer.