"There are far lonelier roads in Nevada than US-50. Highway 6, for example. Highway 375, also known as the "Extraterrestrial Highway", is practically as lonely as space travel."
- Richard Menzies
Unbelievably, I woke up for the second time in my life in Tonopah, Nevada.
The night before we had rolled into town and opted for hot showers and a room out of the cold wind. We had come up far short of reaching our goal on the eastern side of the state for the day. As luck would have it, Tonopah had cheap gas, a few motels and a pretty good Mexican restaurant.
We had dinner and cocktails in a dimly lit corner booth. I couldn't help but hear as the young waitress told each of her tables how she had passed her driver's license test that very afternoon. They all congratulated her and some inquired,
'And how're your folks doin?'... There was a lot of familiar chatter. It was a dining room full of family & friends and we were neither. But we were happy to be there among them. I turned up a Pacifico and tried to think of a more liberating day in life than getting the ol' drivers license.
Things I learned on this trip #9 -
In a small town cantina on a Friday night, try to just blend in...
Tempting the bad movie come-to-life gods, we pony up $36 to stay at the Clown Motel in Tonopah. Sideshow Bob checks us in and gives me an unnerving grin as I walk out of the office... But the room was clean and had only 7 or 8 creepy clown pictures on the walls. It would do and now we can say we survived the Clown Motel in Tonopah. Judging by the frost on the lid of the Columbus the next morning, getting a room was a good call.
Riding east, we head out of town early. I want to take a different route across Nevada than I have before. With a full Scepter can just in case, we turn down Hwy 375, the Extraterrestrial Highway. It is a clear, cool morning and we have the road to ourselves. In the first 100 miles from Tonopah, we pass only three other vehicles. The tiny outpost of Rachel, sits 120 miles into
the lonely, with only a few Joshua Trees for neighbors. There are a couple of people loitering around a single store. I'm pretty certain they're going to unzip out of their skins at any second and reveal themselves to be aliens from another planet, so we don't stay long.
From clowns to aliens to the absence of
everything, we're kinda having a weird morning... Pushing on, we eventually get to the small town of Caliente and the first services in 182 miles from Tonopah. Imagine driving anywhere in the US on a paved highway for 182 miles without seeing a single gas station. In 2009.
I'm drawn to stop in tiny Pioche, after seeing a sign for Tillie's Store offering,
"Everything from Vasoline to Gasoline". I'm a sucker for good advertising and I have good feeling as I take the turnoff into town. Pioche immediately reminds me of Jerome, AZ. Houses and businesses, old and older, built onto a hillside with an expansive view of the valley down below. It's an old mining town gone bust, and like the buildings, hanging onto that mountain for dear life. But it has character and charm. And it is the home of the Overland Hotel and the Overland Saloon.
Coincidence? I think not....
I have one last stop in mind before our trip, becomes officially our trip
home. I'm headed for Great Basin National Park by the Nevada & Utah state line. It's a desolate and remote park but unique in it's altitude and depths. Wheeler Peak ascends to 13K feet in elevation over the park while under the mountain lie vast limestone caverns and caves. High up on Wheeler Peak are a few choice campsites where I hope to stay for the evening.
I scare up a few wild turkeys on the road up to the peak. They're running across the road in the late afternoon trying to keep warm. We are watching the view below as we climb, elevation markers placed at every 1,000 ft. interval. Snow accumulates on the ground, piling up higher and higher as we go. At 8K ft., the gate to the top of Wheeler Peak is closed. A recent snow storm had piled up too much for the park service to keep up with. Dejected, we turn back down the mountain, without even having seen the peak. And then Mia points out the shadow of Wheeler Peak unrolling onto the valley below. It was the biggest shadow we had ever seen....
And with that sunset, our tour was over. We made other plans for the evening and shot across Utah, returning home the following day.
For eleven days, we travelled over 2,800 miles through the scenic southwestern US. Along the way we reconnected with old friends and made new ones. We visited new areas to us and returned to some old favorites. We were taken in by good friends and turned out by bad weather. There was enough time and enough miles to reflect on the past and plan for the future. We caught some lucky breaks, we ate & drank like royalty and we laughed until it hurt more than once.
When looking back, we may not remember the days, but we remember the good times. From those good times, sometimes we get memories that will last a lifetime. So take the good times and great memories as they come and we'll see you down the road...
- KC
~ 30 ~
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