Scott Brady
Founder
Great post!
I love this photo.
I love this photo.
The Grand Adventure - Back to Africa!!!
- Thread starter Christian P.
- Start date
thanks guys - it's been an incredible journey so far.
by the way, if anyone needs some specific information or would like to see a particular side of the type of travel we are doing, please let me know. I'll be happy to include anything that would make this thread better.
by the way, if anyone needs some specific information or would like to see a particular side of the type of travel we are doing, please let me know. I'll be happy to include anything that would make this thread better.
All,
As usual sorry for the lack of updates...I can't believe the last one was in Mozambique...we have crossed Tanzania since then and spent a few days in Kenya.
We just arrived in Uganda last night. We will be here for a few weeks and then into Rwanda. Planning to do some river rafting on Sept 5th (my birthday...) with some friends who have flown from California. More details and pictures as soon as I get a decent connection and some time off...
As usual sorry for the lack of updates...I can't believe the last one was in Mozambique...we have crossed Tanzania since then and spent a few days in Kenya.
We just arrived in Uganda last night. We will be here for a few weeks and then into Rwanda. Planning to do some river rafting on Sept 5th (my birthday...) with some friends who have flown from California. More details and pictures as soon as I get a decent connection and some time off...
All,
just another quick update...we have just arrived in Kigali, Rwanda last night.
We are going to spend a couple days here before heading to see the Gorillas, either in Parc des Volcans (Rwanda) or Viruga in DRC. It feels really different being here for a variety of reasons - scenery (very mountainous), language (French), driving is on the other side (well, the same as us in North America) which is the first time since we left South Africa. Actually I am having problem with the GPS, it hasn't switched side so if I follow it I am taking the round-about the wrong way...
but one thing hasn't changed, Internet is sooooo slow.
just another quick update...we have just arrived in Kigali, Rwanda last night.
We are going to spend a couple days here before heading to see the Gorillas, either in Parc des Volcans (Rwanda) or Viruga in DRC. It feels really different being here for a variety of reasons - scenery (very mountainous), language (French), driving is on the other side (well, the same as us in North America) which is the first time since we left South Africa. Actually I am having problem with the GPS, it hasn't switched side so if I follow it I am taking the round-about the wrong way...
but one thing hasn't changed, Internet is sooooo slow.
XXXpedition
Explorer
don't worry - it'll change in a few years :sombrero:
you've got time, right???
Tanzania
ok, back to a proper update....
After Mozambique and the infamous river crossing, we spent a few weeks in Tanzania.
First stop was Dar Es Salaam from where we spent a few days on Zanzibar just in time for the monthly Full Moon Party...I'll spare you these images.
we celebrated with the Irish Crew we had previously met in Zimbabwe on the side of the road...a situation that would repeat itself several times...
From there we followed the coast, spending a couple days in a great campsite by the beach.
We then reached Arusha and all the near by activities - N'gorongoro, Taranguire, Serengati, Kilimanjero, etc. I personally really liked Arusha - I spent almost a week there.
As expected, the game was plentiful!
ok, back to a proper update....
After Mozambique and the infamous river crossing, we spent a few weeks in Tanzania.
First stop was Dar Es Salaam from where we spent a few days on Zanzibar just in time for the monthly Full Moon Party...I'll spare you these images.
we celebrated with the Irish Crew we had previously met in Zimbabwe on the side of the road...a situation that would repeat itself several times...
From there we followed the coast, spending a couple days in a great campsite by the beach.
We then reached Arusha and all the near by activities - N'gorongoro, Taranguire, Serengati, Kilimanjero, etc. I personally really liked Arusha - I spent almost a week there.
As expected, the game was plentiful!
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Having the right equipment helps...but the dash gets a bit cluttered sometimes...
The scenery was incredible!
Inside the crater, it feels a little busy sometimes...
Tanzania felt more like a vacation, a holiday within a holiday.
The scenery was incredible!
Inside the crater, it feels a little busy sometimes...
Tanzania felt more like a vacation, a holiday within a holiday.
Well, except for the roads, which always bring their share of surprises...
next stop Kenya!
next stop Kenya!
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After Tanzania, we headed to Nairobi to meet an important deadline, just quickly stopping in a popular rest stop.
Persephone was finally coming to join me!
She would stay for a few weeks and we will be heading to Uganda/Rwanda/DRC together. Sooo excited.
We also had to take care of some "important" errants.
Fixing the SLR camera that - like almost everything else on this journey - had decided to stop working a few days before.
Marc also needed a new passport so a visit to our national embassy was in order.
The Canadian embassy in Nairobi has to be one of the nicest in the world, complete with azul blue pool and tennis courts.
We stayed at a campsite called Jungle Junction - a sanctuary for overlanders.
Over the last few years this small and friendly lodge has acquired a reputation to be "the place" to stop - for good reasons.
It is the perfect place to relax, fix your vehicle, meet other travelers and exchange stories.
Which we did almost every night!
From Nairobi we then headed to Masai Mara to observe the annual wildebeest migration.
Unfortunately no river crossing was scheduled in the wildebeest group that day...
Persephone was finally coming to join me!
She would stay for a few weeks and we will be heading to Uganda/Rwanda/DRC together. Sooo excited.
We also had to take care of some "important" errants.
Fixing the SLR camera that - like almost everything else on this journey - had decided to stop working a few days before.
Marc also needed a new passport so a visit to our national embassy was in order.
The Canadian embassy in Nairobi has to be one of the nicest in the world, complete with azul blue pool and tennis courts.
We stayed at a campsite called Jungle Junction - a sanctuary for overlanders.
Over the last few years this small and friendly lodge has acquired a reputation to be "the place" to stop - for good reasons.
It is the perfect place to relax, fix your vehicle, meet other travelers and exchange stories.
Which we did almost every night!
From Nairobi we then headed to Masai Mara to observe the annual wildebeest migration.
Unfortunately no river crossing was scheduled in the wildebeest group that day...
From Kenya we reached Jinja in Uganda a few days later. Jinja is trying to be known as the "Adventure capital of East Africa". Well I am not sure yet if they will reach their goal but we sure had our great share of action there!
Persephone and I started off well by going horseback riding in the hills around the Nile river.
The ride was fantastic but on the last canter Persephone's horse managed to kick her over despite of her great expertise...and then stepped on her...ouch.
She will be consuming large amount of pain killer for the next several days...and eventually found out she had 2 broken ribs!
She is the toughest one.
We relaxed on a deserted island down the Nile to help stop the pain.
Next day was the most important day of the year - my birthday!!!
To celebrate in style, we went down river rafting on the Nile!
And to add even more to the event, several friends were present.
The Irish crew (see previous posts) had arrived from Nairobi the night before.
Suna and Cynthia, two good friends from SF, had also joined us to what was going to be an epic ride, and an even more epic party!
Unfortunately in order to avoid embarrassment for Ireland, no picture have been taken that night...
A few days later we were on our way to Rwanda, avoiding the usual obstacle on the road.
Persephone and I started off well by going horseback riding in the hills around the Nile river.
The ride was fantastic but on the last canter Persephone's horse managed to kick her over despite of her great expertise...and then stepped on her...ouch.
She will be consuming large amount of pain killer for the next several days...and eventually found out she had 2 broken ribs!
She is the toughest one.
We relaxed on a deserted island down the Nile to help stop the pain.
Next day was the most important day of the year - my birthday!!!
To celebrate in style, we went down river rafting on the Nile!
And to add even more to the event, several friends were present.
The Irish crew (see previous posts) had arrived from Nairobi the night before.
Suna and Cynthia, two good friends from SF, had also joined us to what was going to be an epic ride, and an even more epic party!
Unfortunately in order to avoid embarrassment for Ireland, no picture have been taken that night...
A few days later we were on our way to Rwanda, avoiding the usual obstacle on the road.
How to visit the mountain Gorillas and experience Congo!
Welcome to the jungle...!
There are 3 places where you can see the last mountain gorillas on earth - Uganda, Rwanda and DRC (Congo).
Uganda and Rwanda are excellent places and each cost (as of now) $500US for the park fees (more if you book through a tour).
There are several families of mountain gorilla and depending on the fitness of your group, the ranger will decide which family you will visit. The closest one goes to the least (in their eyes...) fit group which is about 30 - 45 minutes walk. We inquired directly at the tourism office in Kigali and were told we could get two permits for the next opening which was about 3 days later.
But I had something else in mind...
I had been trying to gather information about the situation in Congo and the relative safety of visiting Goma for a long time. However it is not until we reached Kigali that I finally decided to go and try by myself to arrange the visit as noone was really able to confirm if it was possible. All the phone numbers we had found or been given didn't lead to anything so I decided to just go and sort out everything while there.
From Kigali we reached Goma on the East Side on the country, near Lake Kivu.
It is a beautiful drive on a nice paved road.
The border crossing into DRC could be described as "entertaining" to say the least...complete with an interview explaining why we wished to visit.
But once in Goma, I was in for a surprise.
"Chaos" does not even start to describe this place.
The city looks like a war zone. Well actually it is a war zone.
Between the 2002 volcano eruption, the DRC civil war that ended in 2006 and the current crisis up North with the LRA, this place is definitively not your typical overlander destination.
I am pretty sure we were the only tourists around there.
The city is occupied by the U.N., there are military compounds everywhere, old refugee camps, streets are made of volcano rocks and the Congolese army/police is on every corner.
I had never seen that many guns in my life. It seemed like everyone has some sort of artillery - the military, the UN soldiers, the park rangers, the private security guards, the police and the list goes on.
It also means it was pretty much impossible to take pictures...
More details on the place here if you are curious
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goma
The local way of transporting goods also add an air of "post-apocalypse"
But this is exactly why I came here and I was not disappointed.
I wanted to get a taste of Congo and I got more than expected.
I even had the chance to cheer to my old favorite hockey team...
Finding the local tourism office required the assistance of two local "guides" on motorcycles as our trusty Tracks4Africa set of maps did not cover the area...(but I now have the GPS waypoint if someone needs it).
As I expected we were the only ones in the office making any booking and were able to schedule a visit for the next day.
The only requirement is to go to the local bank ("bank" may be a bit of a stretch) and get an official receipt.
"Just leave around 6am and drive about 10 km up the dirt road past the airport and the military escort will wait for you there" we were told by the very courteous manager.
We booked an hotel that night and stayed put after dark.
The next morning we left early and started driving. About 30 km later there was still no sign of an escort.
But plenty of surprised looks from the locals...
Welcome to the jungle...!
There are 3 places where you can see the last mountain gorillas on earth - Uganda, Rwanda and DRC (Congo).
Uganda and Rwanda are excellent places and each cost (as of now) $500US for the park fees (more if you book through a tour).
There are several families of mountain gorilla and depending on the fitness of your group, the ranger will decide which family you will visit. The closest one goes to the least (in their eyes...) fit group which is about 30 - 45 minutes walk. We inquired directly at the tourism office in Kigali and were told we could get two permits for the next opening which was about 3 days later.
But I had something else in mind...
I had been trying to gather information about the situation in Congo and the relative safety of visiting Goma for a long time. However it is not until we reached Kigali that I finally decided to go and try by myself to arrange the visit as noone was really able to confirm if it was possible. All the phone numbers we had found or been given didn't lead to anything so I decided to just go and sort out everything while there.
From Kigali we reached Goma on the East Side on the country, near Lake Kivu.
It is a beautiful drive on a nice paved road.
The border crossing into DRC could be described as "entertaining" to say the least...complete with an interview explaining why we wished to visit.
But once in Goma, I was in for a surprise.
"Chaos" does not even start to describe this place.
The city looks like a war zone. Well actually it is a war zone.
Between the 2002 volcano eruption, the DRC civil war that ended in 2006 and the current crisis up North with the LRA, this place is definitively not your typical overlander destination.
I am pretty sure we were the only tourists around there.
The city is occupied by the U.N., there are military compounds everywhere, old refugee camps, streets are made of volcano rocks and the Congolese army/police is on every corner.
I had never seen that many guns in my life. It seemed like everyone has some sort of artillery - the military, the UN soldiers, the park rangers, the private security guards, the police and the list goes on.
It also means it was pretty much impossible to take pictures...
More details on the place here if you are curious
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goma
The local way of transporting goods also add an air of "post-apocalypse"
But this is exactly why I came here and I was not disappointed.
I wanted to get a taste of Congo and I got more than expected.
I even had the chance to cheer to my old favorite hockey team...
Finding the local tourism office required the assistance of two local "guides" on motorcycles as our trusty Tracks4Africa set of maps did not cover the area...(but I now have the GPS waypoint if someone needs it).
As I expected we were the only ones in the office making any booking and were able to schedule a visit for the next day.
The only requirement is to go to the local bank ("bank" may be a bit of a stretch) and get an official receipt.
"Just leave around 6am and drive about 10 km up the dirt road past the airport and the military escort will wait for you there" we were told by the very courteous manager.
We booked an hotel that night and stayed put after dark.
The next morning we left early and started driving. About 30 km later there was still no sign of an escort.
But plenty of surprised looks from the locals...
Eventually we saw about 4 or 5 armed rangers on the side of the road.
I stopped and they quickly explained that I was too early and that their boss was behind me...
He appeared a few minutes later and we started the remaining of the drive (about 40 km more) to the ranger station about half-way up the mountain. The road is very difficult and requires 4wd especially if it has been raining.
We started hiking around 10 am accompanied by 2 other belgium guys - the new chief of security for the park and his friend, an agent for the ICC in Congo. We hiked for about 3 hours until we finally found them...(Persephone doing it with 2 broken ribs...)
I have to say that I was unsure about spending so much money but the adventure is totally worth it.
We spent 40 minutes in their company and will never forget the experience.
We were planning to leave the next day but ended up entertaining ourselves with fabulous stories from the expatriates so much that we decided to stay a bit longer and enjoy the lake!
And our Troopie had good company...
I stopped and they quickly explained that I was too early and that their boss was behind me...
He appeared a few minutes later and we started the remaining of the drive (about 40 km more) to the ranger station about half-way up the mountain. The road is very difficult and requires 4wd especially if it has been raining.
We started hiking around 10 am accompanied by 2 other belgium guys - the new chief of security for the park and his friend, an agent for the ICC in Congo. We hiked for about 3 hours until we finally found them...(Persephone doing it with 2 broken ribs...)
I have to say that I was unsure about spending so much money but the adventure is totally worth it.
We spent 40 minutes in their company and will never forget the experience.
We were planning to leave the next day but ended up entertaining ourselves with fabulous stories from the expatriates so much that we decided to stay a bit longer and enjoy the lake!
And our Troopie had good company...