To the North and Beyond, part 2
I was tempted to head to Haines junction from Whitehorse, but knowing I'd have to drive that way on the way south, I proceeded north. I also didn't want to miss out on a Sourtoe Cocktail since I was in the neighborhood. The traffic again got a little lighter, more traffic heading south instead of north. Using the limited cell service, I wasn't able to find many hiking trails in the areas I would be cruising through.
Pelly Crossing by
Brandon M, on Flickr
My interest in historical places and old mining stuff got me do head northeast towards Mayo and Keno. Along the route there was a short hike that overlooks the river, on one of the informational boards it explains how grizzlies usually hang out on southern facing mountain sides… like the one I was on. I did a double take of my surroundings, and didn't see any watching me.
Aspens by
Brandon M, on Flickr
I continued on past Mayo towards Keno. The road between Mayo and Keno is a lolipop route, a short stem of a road at the base and then a large loop on the top. The southern route is a slower, bumpier and narrower road where the northern road is wider, smoother and faster. Once in Keno I was happy to see that the ‘trail' up to the signpost at the top of the mountain was something you could drive to. Since it was getting late, I had no interest in a long hike. You can do it with most vehicles in good weather, and it is well worth it for the views from the top.
Keno Signpost by
Brandon M, on Flickr
Keno Trail by
Brandon M, on Flickr
I explored the museum in the town, which had a lot of old machinery and parts from the mining days which were marked and in relatively good condition. I headed back to find a place to sleep for the night and came around a corner on the southern section of the road and found this little grizzly. I stopped and it looked my way. I tried to slowly inch forward and it spooked it into the woods. What I had to learn on the road since I haven't had to deal with grizzlies before, is how to tell them apart. This little one shows all the features, above the front legs you can see the hump of the extra muscles for digging, the ears are rounded, and the face has a dip between the eyes and the nose. Black bears can be many colors including brown, so you cannot judge on color alone.
Grizzly Cub by
Brandon M, on Flickr
Now I was right around the corner from Dawson City! Another dreary day of light rain was upon us, but it was the last day of a weekend festival called Discovery Days in Dawson City. There were events all weekend, lots of tours and info. I went on a tour, did some panning for gold and did get some gold (after they felt sorry and gave me a little bottle with a few specks). That night I joined the Sourtoe Cocktail Club by putting a mummified human toe in my whiskey and allowing the toe to touch my lips while I finished the shot. There were about fifty other crazy people who joined me that night. This is toe number 13 in the history of the drink. The last one was stolen a few months ago, the thief mailed it back but they have moved onto another backup. I read online that they were asking for volunteers to donate more toes (after they die) to the cause and had an online place for people to submit pictures of their toes that they are offering up.
Dawson Captain by
Brandon M, on Flickr
A house that has been left to the elements. No, I didn't swing down to San Francisco. This is the result of building on top of permafrost (ground that stays frozen). When you build on it and it heats up, the ground thaws and the building sinks.
Dawson City by
Brandon M, on Flickr
Just across the Yukon River in West Dawson City is a Paddlewheel Graveyard where old paddle boats were abandoned to slowly deteriorate. It is right along the bank of the river and there are supposedly six or seven boats. I was able to find four, although its sometimes hard to tell what is part of one boat since some of them are bunched together. It was a cool little spot although the boats are getting close to being turned into a pile of wood instead of resembling a boat.
Paddlewheel Graveyard by
Brandon M, on Flickr
There were some trails that were backtracking an hour from Dawson City, but with the weather forecast being rain for the next few days, I instead continued west in hopes of finding sun. I was now on the Top of the World Highway. Again, traffic was getting lighter, it was mostly gravel, a few areas of construction with pilot cars. This section of the highway is closed during the winter which is good with no guardrails and long drops off the sides.
I continued to be tempted by random offshoot roads that led to unknown places. My topo maps that I have downloaded show a lot of historic roads as well as current ones but many of the roads were not on the map so I was not sure how far they ventured off.
Yukon Panorama by
Brandon M, on Flickr
But I finally found a long road that had two entrances shaped like a V and went all the way down to a river. I figured that would be a great place to see some wildlife. The road was also fairly wide and had been graded in areas at some point. I came across four trees that had recently fallen and it appeared that maybe a single ATV had driven over the tips at some point. I cut and moved them from the trail and continued on. As the trail got steeper, so did the erosion from the melting snow. Some of the ruts were quite deep (2'ish feet next to and in front of the truck), not something you wanted to drop a wheel or two in at the same time. The road at this point was very steep, getting to the point of being somewhat difficult to walk up or down.
Snow melt ruts by
Brandon M, on Flickr
At the bottom of this last hill was a marshy area. The tractor had been through here at some point creating a route around a serious mud bog, and it looked like it had a hard time as well. With nothing but time to kill, I figured I would continue on and reassess as I went. I was getting close to the river and the other side of the trail so I wanted to continue. I slowly eased onto some dry muddy ground and it seemed to hold up well and then crossed a steep muddy creek without any issue. But then I started into a muddy and rutted out section. It still seemed somewhat firm ground though.
Tippy by
Brandon M, on Flickr