The Gubblemobile- Series III from hell.
- Thread starter Alaska Mike
- Start date
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Only by pictures. My memory of the pseudo exhaust system I unbolted is a bit hazy. I do remember thinking it would be in the way of any rear-mounted tank system I installed. I will be having one built at any rate, so I have some options to play with.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
My only pictures are from the Green Bible.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Today I really wanted to get the engine and transmission mated together, so I started gather my parts together. That's when I noticed that Novak didn't send me a throwout bearing. A quick call to them got a part number, and I drove around in town in vain trying to find one. Come to find out, under that part number are three different lengths of throwout bearing, and I have no idea which one is required. By the time I figured this out, it was too late to call Novak again.
So, with that plan blown, I started bolting on the parts I did have. I got the bolts for the bellhousing from the hardware store. After decades of collecting a sizable SAE bolt bucket, now I have a project vehicle that takes metric, Whitworth, and SAE. Of course, today's project was solely metric.
When I got home, I started bolting the bellhousing on the transmission. Hmmmmm... that doesn't look right. The hole for the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder is partly covered by one of the transmission case ribs. Out comes the grinder and I start cutting. I took a 1"x5" section out of the very large rib (there's still more than enough left), and the cylinder tucked in there perfectly, with 1/4" of clearance all around. Looked sweet. So I started bolting everything up, quite pleased with myself.
Then it hit me- what if I had to replace the slave cylinder? I would have to unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and slide it back so that I could remove the cylinder. So, I unbolted everything and started grinding again. Actually, another trip to the hardware store for some cutting wheels was required before I started grinding again. It doesn't look quite as slick, but it works from a maintenance standpoint and doesn't look too bad.
Tomorrow I'll remove and replace the pilot bushing, install the clutch on the block, and give Novak a call. Maybe someday I can make some real progress without 40 trips to the store.
So, with that plan blown, I started bolting on the parts I did have. I got the bolts for the bellhousing from the hardware store. After decades of collecting a sizable SAE bolt bucket, now I have a project vehicle that takes metric, Whitworth, and SAE. Of course, today's project was solely metric.
When I got home, I started bolting the bellhousing on the transmission. Hmmmmm... that doesn't look right. The hole for the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder is partly covered by one of the transmission case ribs. Out comes the grinder and I start cutting. I took a 1"x5" section out of the very large rib (there's still more than enough left), and the cylinder tucked in there perfectly, with 1/4" of clearance all around. Looked sweet. So I started bolting everything up, quite pleased with myself.
Then it hit me- what if I had to replace the slave cylinder? I would have to unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and slide it back so that I could remove the cylinder. So, I unbolted everything and started grinding again. Actually, another trip to the hardware store for some cutting wheels was required before I started grinding again. It doesn't look quite as slick, but it works from a maintenance standpoint and doesn't look too bad.
Tomorrow I'll remove and replace the pilot bushing, install the clutch on the block, and give Novak a call. Maybe someday I can make some real progress without 40 trips to the store.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
By the way, the throwout bearing that was supposed to included was a McLeod 16505 adjustable. JEGS and Summit sell them for like $95, so you can bet I'm going to try to get one from Novak.
The only problem is then I have to assemble everything, take some measurements, disassemble everything, adjust the T/O bearing, and then put it all back together. I was hoping for a simpler install, but at least this way I'll know for sure if I have the right length T/O bearing.
I'm also going to have to cut a piece of 2" flat stock to beef up the transmission crossmember, since the mounting styles are different. Nothing fancy or involved- just something to spread out the load and reduce flexing under load.
I'm still deciding on how I want to do the motor mounts. The Quiet Canyon Land Mutt used a left-side drop transfercase, which meant the engine was shifted to the right more than mine will be.
The only problem is then I have to assemble everything, take some measurements, disassemble everything, adjust the T/O bearing, and then put it all back together. I was hoping for a simpler install, but at least this way I'll know for sure if I have the right length T/O bearing.
I'm also going to have to cut a piece of 2" flat stock to beef up the transmission crossmember, since the mounting styles are different. Nothing fancy or involved- just something to spread out the load and reduce flexing under load.
I'm still deciding on how I want to do the motor mounts. The Quiet Canyon Land Mutt used a left-side drop transfercase, which meant the engine was shifted to the right more than mine will be.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Does the I4 use the same mounts that GM uses on their V8's, the so-called "Clamshell" mount? If it does, I would highly suggest using those for the actual mount. Then replacement parts are easy and can get the inserts in urethane if so desired.
If not and they aren't easily adapted then I'd suggest something like the Autofab engine mounts:
While you can buy just the tube/bushings/sleeve assembly from Autofab, I'm hesitant to use urethane bushings in this type of engine mount. For racing they would be fine, but they might lack civility in Overland use.
What I would suggest is perusing the Steel Rubber and Metro Molded Parts catalogs for rubber spring eye bushings of appropriate size and make that style of mount using rubber bushings. If you can find some rubber bushings from an application that is also covered by Daystar or Energy Suspension then should urethane be deemed desirable it would be a relatively simple swap rather than a whole remake/rebuild of the mounts.
If not and they aren't easily adapted then I'd suggest something like the Autofab engine mounts:
While you can buy just the tube/bushings/sleeve assembly from Autofab, I'm hesitant to use urethane bushings in this type of engine mount. For racing they would be fine, but they might lack civility in Overland use.
What I would suggest is perusing the Steel Rubber and Metro Molded Parts catalogs for rubber spring eye bushings of appropriate size and make that style of mount using rubber bushings. If you can find some rubber bushings from an application that is also covered by Daystar or Energy Suspension then should urethane be deemed desirable it would be a relatively simple swap rather than a whole remake/rebuild of the mounts.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
The 2.5L uses a steel wrapped rubber motor mount like this:
There are many poly versions out there, but I'm sticking with rubber (either OEM-style or aftermarket) for the vibration issue.
In turn, it is connected to the engine by brackets that bolt to the block, and there are beefed-up versions available:
http://browndogindustries.com/25l-amc-engine-brackets.aspx
Basically I need a flat surface of about the right size to bolt these suckers to. It's a pretty easy mount, as far as fabrication goes.
There are many poly versions out there, but I'm sticking with rubber (either OEM-style or aftermarket) for the vibration issue.
In turn, it is connected to the engine by brackets that bolt to the block, and there are beefed-up versions available:
http://browndogindustries.com/25l-amc-engine-brackets.aspx
Basically I need a flat surface of about the right size to bolt these suckers to. It's a pretty easy mount, as far as fabrication goes.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Let's see, where am I now?...
I'm waiting for the throwout bearing from Novak. In the meantime, I found a way to install a spring on the clutch release arm to keep the bearing from riding on the pressure plate- something the factory never thought was worthwhile. It took some creativity on my part, but I finally found a way that functions well and looks semi-stock. I'll try to get some pictures up sooner or later. Little pieces and parts seem to be holding me up at every turn. Every time I get a few hours to wrench, I find I need something else- even if I'm sure I have all of the parts.
I found a '71 CJ-5 Dana 44 rear axle (passenger side offset) with 30 spline, 1 piece axleshafts. For next to nothing. Literally. I'm going to pick it up and see what I can do with it, since it isn't going to hurt anything. I also located a Dana 30 with drum brakes for free, and I have most of the disc brake conversion parts sitting on my shelf. I might be on to something here...
I also located a Spicer 18 e-brake assembly locally, which will also be next to free. If I decide to go with the smaller '71 drums (10") over the '75 drums (11"), I need to run the transfercase parking brake. We'll see how everything on the axle is looking before deciding.
I turned 40 today. Funny, I don't feel a day over 60...
I'm waiting for the throwout bearing from Novak. In the meantime, I found a way to install a spring on the clutch release arm to keep the bearing from riding on the pressure plate- something the factory never thought was worthwhile. It took some creativity on my part, but I finally found a way that functions well and looks semi-stock. I'll try to get some pictures up sooner or later. Little pieces and parts seem to be holding me up at every turn. Every time I get a few hours to wrench, I find I need something else- even if I'm sure I have all of the parts.
I found a '71 CJ-5 Dana 44 rear axle (passenger side offset) with 30 spline, 1 piece axleshafts. For next to nothing. Literally. I'm going to pick it up and see what I can do with it, since it isn't going to hurt anything. I also located a Dana 30 with drum brakes for free, and I have most of the disc brake conversion parts sitting on my shelf. I might be on to something here...
I also located a Spicer 18 e-brake assembly locally, which will also be next to free. If I decide to go with the smaller '71 drums (10") over the '75 drums (11"), I need to run the transfercase parking brake. We'll see how everything on the axle is looking before deciding.
I turned 40 today. Funny, I don't feel a day over 60...
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Update
Well, I had to save for awhile for the next bits, but they're finally on order. Ike Goss is providing me with the following:
I got tired of playing around with the bulkhead I had, mainly because the more I removed, the more cancerous rust I found. It started out with the footwells, but then the mounting feet were suspect once I got in there (paper thin). Then the tranny tunnel showed it was holding on by a thread. I started adding up the prices and what it would take time-wise to replace them, and I decided to just go whole hog.
The original plan was to get a Series III bulkhead, but that fell through. Ike mentioned that he had a IIA bukhead on-hand, so I started doing some thinking. I prefer the utilitarian looks of the IIA bulkhead, and it's certainly easier to adapt than the Series III without all of the vinyl and plastic bits. Since a great deal of the major systems that were attached to my bulkhead needed to be replaced or modified anyway, I figured why not? The price increase was nominal, and if I end up with something I prefer anyway it's money well spent.
Then again, we're way past the range of common sense and reason.
So, it will take awhile to get the parts done and up here, and that's probably a good thing. My bank account needs to recover and this week's snow storm has put off spring by a few weeks.
I still have to play with those axles and see if they're going to work. There's just not enough time to get it all done.
Well, I had to save for awhile for the next bits, but they're finally on order. Ike Goss is providing me with the following:
- full-width galvanized front bumper with 8274 mounts.
- Galvanized rock sliders.
and... - A dipped and galvanized late-model Series IIA bulkhead with the necessary parts to convert it (windshield, hinges dash panels....)
I got tired of playing around with the bulkhead I had, mainly because the more I removed, the more cancerous rust I found. It started out with the footwells, but then the mounting feet were suspect once I got in there (paper thin). Then the tranny tunnel showed it was holding on by a thread. I started adding up the prices and what it would take time-wise to replace them, and I decided to just go whole hog.
The original plan was to get a Series III bulkhead, but that fell through. Ike mentioned that he had a IIA bukhead on-hand, so I started doing some thinking. I prefer the utilitarian looks of the IIA bulkhead, and it's certainly easier to adapt than the Series III without all of the vinyl and plastic bits. Since a great deal of the major systems that were attached to my bulkhead needed to be replaced or modified anyway, I figured why not? The price increase was nominal, and if I end up with something I prefer anyway it's money well spent.
Then again, we're way past the range of common sense and reason.
So, it will take awhile to get the parts done and up here, and that's probably a good thing. My bank account needs to recover and this week's snow storm has put off spring by a few weeks.
I still have to play with those axles and see if they're going to work. There's just not enough time to get it all done.
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
..and there it sat.
I'm still waiting for my galvanized Series II bulkhead from Ike. Let me be clear- I'm not complaining, as he was very up-front about it taking a while to complete and ship, and I trust him in this regard. An email here or there for updates is about all of the prodding I'm willing to do. I'd rather have the job done right and have no regrets than have to deal with little problems show up after a year or so.
Unfortunately, waiting on all of that has basically stopped progress on the build. I was considering using the SIII bulkhead as a template when I was doing the motor mounts, but decided to wait because I wasn't sure what slight differences would appear when I went to the SII bulkhead. Given the fact that the SII bulkhead was galvanized, and therefore less easy to modify, I wanted to make sure I had this done right the first time with a minimum of tweaking afterwards. Now I'm questioning my thought process a bit since my short delay has dragged on, but oh well...
I'm still waiting for my galvanized Series II bulkhead from Ike. Let me be clear- I'm not complaining, as he was very up-front about it taking a while to complete and ship, and I trust him in this regard. An email here or there for updates is about all of the prodding I'm willing to do. I'd rather have the job done right and have no regrets than have to deal with little problems show up after a year or so.
Unfortunately, waiting on all of that has basically stopped progress on the build. I was considering using the SIII bulkhead as a template when I was doing the motor mounts, but decided to wait because I wasn't sure what slight differences would appear when I went to the SII bulkhead. Given the fact that the SII bulkhead was galvanized, and therefore less easy to modify, I wanted to make sure I had this done right the first time with a minimum of tweaking afterwards. Now I'm questioning my thought process a bit since my short delay has dragged on, but oh well...
David Harris
Expedition Leader
Every time I crawl under my RRC and gaze at the rust . . . or work on it and have to sweep up the chunks of vehicle afterward, I think parting out for a moment. Then, I take a drive in this reliable old beast with so much character, get out, step back and look at that beautiful Eastnor Green paint and think to myself that one couldn't get any closer to a living being in a vehicle, I change my mind, and vow to stand by it and keep it til the end . . . :ylsmoke:
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
I know I could have done it differently (and cheaper), but this way the vehicle is mine. Every bolt, every gasket, every deviation from the original spec. If it fails, it's my failure, and it's more than likely that I'll know how to fix it or just how hopeless the situation will be. Then an old, beat to death Series Rover rattles by at walking speed and I wonder why I can't be a "run what ya brung" kinda guy. Knowing me, I would be nickled and dimed to death either way. At least this way I won't have to find out the bulkhead mounting bolts have rusted through on the middle of the trail, miles from nowhere.
It's just taking forever to get anywhere. Every time I get up a head of steam I run into a roadblock, either logistical or financial, that grinds everything to a halt. Hard to maintain the enthusiasm when you can't make any real progress.
However, the day the bulkhead, bumper, and sliders from Ike show up you can bet I'll be all sorts of enthusiastic.
It's just taking forever to get anywhere. Every time I get up a head of steam I run into a roadblock, either logistical or financial, that grinds everything to a halt. Hard to maintain the enthusiasm when you can't make any real progress.
However, the day the bulkhead, bumper, and sliders from Ike show up you can bet I'll be all sorts of enthusiastic.
