The Gubblemobile- Series III from hell.

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Thanks for the detailed answer, TeriAnn. My Series III dash isn't quite as versatile as yours, but I was considering the same location for any module I may need to mount. I'm considering running the wiring harness on that side as well, if for no other reason than to keep it away from the brake and clutch master cylinders.

I certainly like the idea of having more grunt under the hood, but I figure I need to balance that with the existing axles and braking power. The shafts in the rear (thanks to Mercedesrover) will be the least of my worries, but the front shafts will remain stock (with new ujoints) until they break. I'd rather not hurry that process if I can avoid it. The brakes will probably be upgraded first, but that's several years down the line.

One of the reasons I really like the Jeep 2.5L is that they are durable for a MPFI engine. Failures are pretty rare, and the parts can be gotten fairly easily from junkyards (tons of Cherokees out there), parts stores, and the dealer. While not quite as common as the 4.3L, they are out there. Also, it's easier to find a low-mileage 2.5L, simply because people don't put as many miles on a Jeep as they do on a Blazer or S10- at least up here.

Guys up here pull Jeep 2.5Ls all of the time from their Wranglers and Cherokees. You might ask why I would want an engine that everyone seems determined to get rid of. Good question. The main reason people pull them is that they don't have the torque to spin up large (36"+) tires in the mud. Not a problem for me, as I don't plan on running anything larger than a 33" tire. The YJ and the Rover weigh roughly the same (give or take a few hundred pounds- slight advantage Rover) and have the same brick-like aerodynamics.

I'm still in the "what if" stage of looking at this option. I think the main reason it hasn't been done is the whole "Jeep vs Rover" thing, which I don't completely understand given Land Rover's history. I'll do a bit more poking around and see what is possible.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
When I got home today, there sat a long box on the steps. I immediately got all giddy and tore it open, to find two beautiful Seriestrek axles. They're almost too pretty to hide in an axle housing. Perhaps I can reinstall the original shafts and mount the Seriestrek axles on the front bumper so everyone can see how cool I am. Perhaps not.

When I get a spare second I'm going to have to start rebuilding the rear axle. I'm kinda excited to see how it all goes together.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
Three days from Connecticut to Anchorage! Who says the US Postal Service doesn't work. And 33% cheaper than UPS to boot!

No worries, Mike. I can make you a second set to bolt to the bumper!

jim
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
That would be some pricey hood bling! Maybe I'll hold off until after I get the ground effects and spinners.

I hope to have the rear axle assembled soon so I can move on to the front.

By the way, anyone have any experience with Genuine brake pads vs aftermarket? Why the major (and I do mean major) price difference?
 

TeriAnn

Explorer
Alaska Mike said:
By the way, anyone have any experience with Genuine brake pads vs aftermarket?

Mintex is a very good brand. You will never go wrong if you specify Mintex shoes & TRW/lucas/Girling cylinders.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
TeriAnn said:
Mintex is a very good brand. You will never go wrong if you specify Mintex shoes & TRW/lucas/Girling cylinders.

Do you have a supplier? I haven't seen that brand advertised, and I'm always open to new vendors outside the usual Land Rover channels.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
George at Rovers Down South keeps that stuff as well as Automec brake lines. I just got a whole set of TRW/Lucas wheel cylinders for the 109 from him as well as an Automec brake pipe set. I've never used the Automec stuff before but is sure is pretty!

jim
 

TeriAnn

Explorer
Alaska Mike said:
Do you have a supplier? I haven't seen that brand advertised, and I'm always open to new vendors outside the usual Land Rover channels.

British Pacific carries both. Mintex is a major brake company in the UK. I use them on both my Land Rover and my Triumph TR3A.

Girling was purchased by Lucas which was purchased by TRW. The box is usually green with LUCAS in white lettering. This is the OEM manufacturer and what you will find inside the Genuine LR box.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
My CJ-5 has a Girling hydraulic master/slave clutch system, which I kinda like and have retrofitted on two Jeeps. I have a local dealer that I can get the Girling Jeep parts through for fairly cheap, so hopefully they can hook me up with the Rover parts as well.

I do need brake lines, and it looks like Rovers Down South has a pretty good deal on them (2/3 of the price at most other places). The brake pad price isn't all that bad either. My wheel cylinders look new, so I may just throw some new seals in there and call it done.
 

Ruffin' It

Explorer
If your better half is type-A like mine, you are welcome to try my tactic which basically plays out like this:

Say I spend 15 hours/week in the garage and installing $400 worth of parts (on average) that works out to about about $26/hour in recreation. Verses 15 hours/week in a bar with an average of 3 drinks/hour at $5.00/drink equaling about $15/hour not including tip. That is $225 at the bar where you don't get anything in return for your investment except an even bigger gut. When I'm in the garage you know where I am, what I am doing, and I'm not going to get a DUI driving home. Besides, eventually the $400 a week stops when the project is done (hopefully she hasn't figured out that it never stops yet) while the bar would continue forever. In the long run I am preserving my health, your sanity, and saving money.

You have to be careful with the last line. When I tried it I learned that my wife is actually able to roll her eyes in a complete rotation.

Great thread BTW. I've been really itching of a Series lately and I'm getting answers to a lot of the little nagging questions that I've had. Thanks,

Tyler


Andrew Walcker said:
If your wife is as smart as mine don't try the line of, "Honey, I'm in this huge mail part swapping club for LR enthusiast, it's part of the circle of life thing and.....":oops:

I totaly agree with Scott that this :26_34_3: along with dinner and a movie timed just before the mailman shows up to be the best course of action! :26_7_2:
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Suspension, suspension...

The plan was to buy a set of Rocky Mountain springs, OME shocks, and various suspension parts from Wise Owl, totalling about $1400 in parts alone. Not a small chunk of change for a guy like me. Nearly two months after first contacting them, I still don't have even a box sitting on my front porch, much less a good estimate for shipping costs. I realize that I called during a busy season and they were trying to work the best possible rate for me, but this seems like a longer than normal time frame. I called a few times to check up, and was assured that they were waiting for a quote.

Let me make this clear- I'm not bashing Wise Owl. My experience so far may be a complete freak of nature beyond their control. They have been willing to answer my technical questions and really have been otherwise pleasant on the phone. Others seem to have nothing but good things to say about them, and their location makes shipping cheaper for me. I will probably deal with them in the future. This instance doesn't seem to be working out, though.

That said, I've been looking at the old, stock suspension with a different mindset. The springs are 35 years old, so they aren't in peak shape. The bushings need to be replaced, unless the holes are supposed to be oblong and the rubber was designed to crack and fall out in chunks. Might be a Rover thing. The leaves themselves are pretty rusty, spreading apart in spots and will need to be taken apart to clean and paint, and they will get the TAW spring treatment as well while I'm there. The springs might have lost a bit of height, but they still have a positive arch under load.

With this option I might have to drop my tire size down a notch, depending on how they settle under the loads I'm carrying. That isn't an issue for me, since I kinda prefer the look of the smaller tires vs the "stuff as much rubber in the fenders as you can" look. There may be a slight issue with gearing (too low for the given tire size/engine), but I don't expect it to be too overwhelming.

Seems like every time I make a decision, it changes down the line and then affects 6 or 7 others. It's a good thing I'm not in a hurry.
 

seriessearcher

Adventurer
Parts Shipments

I just have parts sent to my office to avoid any stares from the wife.:wings:

Now the project 109 I just bought to complete my dormobile may be ahrder to hide :(
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
seriessearcher said:
I just have parts sent to my office to avoid any stares from the wife.:wings:

Now the project 109 I just bought to complete my dormobile may be ahrder to hide :(


Ahhh I too partake in the shipping diversion.


Aaron
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Speaking of tires, what size have you guys run on Series Rovers? I like the look of the tires on Henry's Series III Eore (at least the ones in the pictures on the site). Not too large, not too small.
106-0622_IMG.JPG
 

bovw

Explorer
A friend of mine has a Series III running 245/75/16 Goodyear MTR's. He has parabolic springs and the tires fit just right.
 

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