I am really sorry for your loss and I would not know what I would do if my my love and wife who went with me through all the ups and downs of the last 45 years suddenly passed away. But take a deep breath and step back from what your situation is for a moment and think about the future. You apparently own a 2004 F150 and you would like to go overlanding. This is a great idea. We traveled 8 months a year since I retired 12 years ago. It sure kept me young (relatively). But first define what you really want to do. Is it wheeling? Is it exploring unknown places in North America or the world? What kind of equipment do you need for what you to plan to do? Spending a lot of money on a 2004 F 150 may not be the answer. I own a 2015 F 150 with a Overlandex pop up camper. It is stock except for Timbrens at the rear axle. It has taken me from Inuvik to Cape Breton and Tofino without any problems. And we usually camp on dispersed camping or Rec sites even if we can only reach them in 4low. So far I have 120k km with the camper without problems. Why spend a ton of money on those mods? Get a reliable truck, put a good quality light weight camper on it and go. Just my 2 cents.
The Memorial F150 Craptor.
- Thread starter dbhost
- Start date
Repowering the F150 has been in the works long before she passed. I plan on travelling the gravel roads and logging trails out west. Not rock crawling in Utah or blasting through Central America, and I don't have the funds to buy a new 4x4 full size truck of any sort. I can get everything done to bring the '04 fully up to spec so I can do the camper, I will have less than $15K into it. A new comparable F150 5.0L XLT Supercab 4x4 will run me at least $55K, and dealers are marking them WAY up these days. So no, it is not really all that reasonable.
Much of the work aside from the repower and diffs has been done, and honestly I am not likely to do the diffs as I am not getting extreme. Open diffs, and recovery equip I already have will likely see me through no worries... I have a 9K winch on the truck already, and a bag 'o recovery gear...
I get it though. There is also a lot of sentimentality tied up in this old truck... I kind of need to do this to finish what I started...
Went to Harbor Freight today. Got one of those plastic waterproof / dustproof clamshells everyone is using for the on demand water heaters. It fits my Camplux 5L, BUT.... I need elbows to clear the QDs... Water lines I got figured out, what is the gas line? Is it standard 3/8" US thread or is it that funny G thread like the water lines? Once I get that figured out, I will grab some heavy guage-ish aluminum Z track and make basically a french cleat system to hang the instant shower. Oh for anyone interested, it is the Apache 4800 weatherproof protective case X-large, I got mine in kind of a sand color.
I found a search tool that scours the classifieds and found no less than 5 camper shells that will fit my bill perfectly. The ideal one is about a 6 hour drive from me and they are asking $250.00 for it. Now the problem, how do I drive 6 hours up, and 6 hours back with a camper shell while my truck is disassembled?
Oh well, at least I proved to myself affordable used camper shells are out there and findable.
Now once my mech gives me the go ahead I will head out on a few short trips, then do the big run to grab a camper shell, then back home to do the build out / install.
Will grab some assistants to go grab about 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood, 1 sheet of 3/4" a couple of 2x2s, some lag bolts, and some rat fur carpeting. to do the bed / cabinet and drop in AC divider wall build. I am going to paint the divider wall a reasonably matching-ish sand color using Behr Porch and Floor paint over a couple of coats of Kilz2 primer. The 2x2 is to have a notch set such that the AC panel can't sink too far and bend the bottom lip of the tailgate up..
So my options for bed are multiple, I am considering 2.
#1. A Tri Fold memory foam twin mattress down the center, folds up for day use as a chair.
#2. A 4 or 6" memory foam full mattress split lengthwise and custom cover sewn up with a grippy bottom. I can use these cushions in one of those interlocking finger design bed frames that slides out from one side or another, and use the cushions to make a, well sofa during the day. This leaves me with a bigger bed at night, and better storage options during the day, but is more expensive as I cannot really sew and I would need a custom cover made for the mattress halves.
I also picked up one of those Ozark Trail aluminum folding tables today. I have a much larger one, but being as it is only me now, I don't need a bigger one. I just need a table I can set my laptop on to work, or set dinner on to eat...
Rummaging around in the workshop. I do still have plenty of Reflectix, so I need to source up some fabric. While I can't sew, I can sure use fabric glue. I am going to make insulated upholstered panels for the windows to keep it warmer / cooler, and a LOT more private.
I already have the 110V penetration, GFCI, and outlet set up, just need to install it to the cap once I figure out what point to install it.
For a while I am figuring on using my 13x13 EZ Up and shade walls for added "living and kitchen area". That will likely be set up immediately behind the truck... and the Ensuite tent off to the side of that.
I found a search tool that scours the classifieds and found no less than 5 camper shells that will fit my bill perfectly. The ideal one is about a 6 hour drive from me and they are asking $250.00 for it. Now the problem, how do I drive 6 hours up, and 6 hours back with a camper shell while my truck is disassembled?
Oh well, at least I proved to myself affordable used camper shells are out there and findable.
Now once my mech gives me the go ahead I will head out on a few short trips, then do the big run to grab a camper shell, then back home to do the build out / install.
Will grab some assistants to go grab about 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood, 1 sheet of 3/4" a couple of 2x2s, some lag bolts, and some rat fur carpeting. to do the bed / cabinet and drop in AC divider wall build. I am going to paint the divider wall a reasonably matching-ish sand color using Behr Porch and Floor paint over a couple of coats of Kilz2 primer. The 2x2 is to have a notch set such that the AC panel can't sink too far and bend the bottom lip of the tailgate up..
So my options for bed are multiple, I am considering 2.
#1. A Tri Fold memory foam twin mattress down the center, folds up for day use as a chair.
#2. A 4 or 6" memory foam full mattress split lengthwise and custom cover sewn up with a grippy bottom. I can use these cushions in one of those interlocking finger design bed frames that slides out from one side or another, and use the cushions to make a, well sofa during the day. This leaves me with a bigger bed at night, and better storage options during the day, but is more expensive as I cannot really sew and I would need a custom cover made for the mattress halves.
I also picked up one of those Ozark Trail aluminum folding tables today. I have a much larger one, but being as it is only me now, I don't need a bigger one. I just need a table I can set my laptop on to work, or set dinner on to eat...
Rummaging around in the workshop. I do still have plenty of Reflectix, so I need to source up some fabric. While I can't sew, I can sure use fabric glue. I am going to make insulated upholstered panels for the windows to keep it warmer / cooler, and a LOT more private.
I already have the 110V penetration, GFCI, and outlet set up, just need to install it to the cap once I figure out what point to install it.
For a while I am figuring on using my 13x13 EZ Up and shade walls for added "living and kitchen area". That will likely be set up immediately behind the truck... and the Ensuite tent off to the side of that.
I am not certain if fittment will be acceptable, I have found a dirt cheap Leer 122 from an '07 Silverado 2500HD. I THINK the cap should fit, and the price is low enough it is worth the risk... The fit does not have to be perfect, It has to mount up, seal up, and not cause wind drag / noise. The rest is gravy.
So for anyone keeping track status so far is...
#1. Pending engine swap. Waiting on the mechanic to heal up from major surgery.
#2. In the mean time, will swap moog HD coils into the Rancho Quick LIft assemblies. I.E. take the assemblies out, drag them into a local shop and pay them to swap the coils so I can keep my skull.
#3. Replacing leaking OE headlight assemblies and third brake light with smoked assemblies with new seals. Need new gaskets for the headlight bulbs just to make everything good there.
#4. E series van frame mount battery box shipped. Pending arrival.
#5. 300w solar suitcase system with charge controller etc in hand. This should be more than ample to run the 12V fridge, my laptop, charge my phone, cameras, gimbal and run my CPAP.
#6. Tailgate / AC panel sized up out of my sheet goods stash. 3/4" ply. Need to dig up some 2s2 stock. Might have to just rip some 2x4 to make that happen. Will be making the AC cutout shortly. Yay plunge cuts with a circ saw!
#7. 60l 12v fridge has shipped.
#8. Suicide door cable fix kits ($8.00) ordered. I can do those...
#9. LED off road lights and wiring harness for towing and integration of LEDs into reverse circuit. Needs to be installed.
Needed.
#1.To go get the camper shell. Trying to contact the seller and figure out how to get it from 3 counties away through Houston... Ick.
#2. Final decision on the bed. For now I might just use a twin air mattress with a memory foam topper. Not a good long term solution though.
#3. Figure out the layout of the camper shell interior. Need storage toward the front of the shell for water as it is heavy.
#4. Once engine swap, new belts / hoses / fluids done, go over everything with a fine tooth comb.
#5. Roof rack / crossbars and safari basket system OR roof box for holding recovery gear. I don't really want it in the cab as the space it is taking up right now is where I want the fridge to live....
#6. Source up a manual sliding rear window.
#7. Source up Android Auto head unit for audio / visual / GPS functions including reverse camera system. Add factory style reverse cams.
#8. Lose the Hercules Trail Digger MTs. Those things were junk. Go back to 285/70R17 BFG ATs, not as wide, not as tall, no rubbing, no buffing, no problems at all. Mud tires just are not worth it to me any more.
#9. AGM batteries. 1 for the engine, 1 for the house. The Champion group 65 fits the E series van box and the F150 battery specs, and has the highest CCA and a/hr rating. And no chance of becoming a Lithium Battery flambe out on a gravel road somewhere.
Once the cap is installed I can begin marking and making my cuts for the mounts for the electrical pass through. This will be where the 110V from either shore power, or generator comes into the camper. This is going to be almost exclusively to run the AC however since it is on a GFCI I will also have an extra outlet for whatever is needed. I am copying basically the 110V setup from a teardrop camper.
I will also likely need a penetration for the cables for the solar panels to the charge controller.
So for anyone keeping track status so far is...
#1. Pending engine swap. Waiting on the mechanic to heal up from major surgery.
#2. In the mean time, will swap moog HD coils into the Rancho Quick LIft assemblies. I.E. take the assemblies out, drag them into a local shop and pay them to swap the coils so I can keep my skull.
#3. Replacing leaking OE headlight assemblies and third brake light with smoked assemblies with new seals. Need new gaskets for the headlight bulbs just to make everything good there.
#4. E series van frame mount battery box shipped. Pending arrival.
#5. 300w solar suitcase system with charge controller etc in hand. This should be more than ample to run the 12V fridge, my laptop, charge my phone, cameras, gimbal and run my CPAP.
#6. Tailgate / AC panel sized up out of my sheet goods stash. 3/4" ply. Need to dig up some 2s2 stock. Might have to just rip some 2x4 to make that happen. Will be making the AC cutout shortly. Yay plunge cuts with a circ saw!
#7. 60l 12v fridge has shipped.
#8. Suicide door cable fix kits ($8.00) ordered. I can do those...
#9. LED off road lights and wiring harness for towing and integration of LEDs into reverse circuit. Needs to be installed.
Needed.
#1.To go get the camper shell. Trying to contact the seller and figure out how to get it from 3 counties away through Houston... Ick.
#2. Final decision on the bed. For now I might just use a twin air mattress with a memory foam topper. Not a good long term solution though.
#3. Figure out the layout of the camper shell interior. Need storage toward the front of the shell for water as it is heavy.
#4. Once engine swap, new belts / hoses / fluids done, go over everything with a fine tooth comb.
#5. Roof rack / crossbars and safari basket system OR roof box for holding recovery gear. I don't really want it in the cab as the space it is taking up right now is where I want the fridge to live....
#6. Source up a manual sliding rear window.
#7. Source up Android Auto head unit for audio / visual / GPS functions including reverse camera system. Add factory style reverse cams.
#8. Lose the Hercules Trail Digger MTs. Those things were junk. Go back to 285/70R17 BFG ATs, not as wide, not as tall, no rubbing, no buffing, no problems at all. Mud tires just are not worth it to me any more.
#9. AGM batteries. 1 for the engine, 1 for the house. The Champion group 65 fits the E series van box and the F150 battery specs, and has the highest CCA and a/hr rating. And no chance of becoming a Lithium Battery flambe out on a gravel road somewhere.
Once the cap is installed I can begin marking and making my cuts for the mounts for the electrical pass through. This will be where the 110V from either shore power, or generator comes into the camper. This is going to be almost exclusively to run the AC however since it is on a GFCI I will also have an extra outlet for whatever is needed. I am copying basically the 110V setup from a teardrop camper.
I will also likely need a penetration for the cables for the solar panels to the charge controller.
So the update yesterday was a bit messy. Let me organize it a bit.
So here is the status so far.
Truck.
2004 F150 XLT Supercab 4x4 5.4L 3V.
In camp the idea is as follows.
Pull in, set up divider wall / AC mount if needed. From Oct - May unneccessary.
Set up EZ Up behind tailgate so that hatch opens under it.
Set up side walls as wind breaks.
Lay out RV mat under EZ Up.
Set up Double Ensuite. Oh and anchor everything down in the process!
Hang the Shower box. I have my Camplux 5L mounted in an Apache 4800 waterproof / dustproof box. Will attach to the back of the cap via aluminum Z channel that has been plasti-dipped.
Set up Kitchen cook stand / stove
Set up propane system, test for leaks.
Set up chair and folding table
Enjoy, or work as needed...
Now IF I had all the money I could want to do this, I would pick a different approach, but I don't. But if budget would have allowed I would have gone with a 3/4 or 1 ton 4x4 long bed and a 4 wheel campers what is that model a Granby with the side sofa not a dinette. I'm too fat to be comfortable in a dinette.
Planned maiden voyage. Bolivar Peninsula TX. there is a constant strong breeze right at ground level off the gulf at night that drives me nuts tent camping. I am hopeful being 4' off the ground keeps me away from the blowing sand.
So here is the status so far.
Truck.
2004 F150 XLT Supercab 4x4 5.4L 3V.
- Engine rebuild in progress. All upgraded hardware with TSB fixes on the VCT system, and an upgraded Melling Hi Flow oil pump. (Jasper Engine being installed by a friends shop so I can get the warranty).
- 9.75" rear with 3.55 gears. I want to regear to maybe 3.73 with at least limited slips, but can do air lockers since ARB offers them now. Not sure about that.
- Trans, T case and diffs will be gone over for leaks etc... Torque converter is newer as the OE was deemed to be problematic and replaced at 70K miles.
- All belts hoses and potentially leaky things will be gone over.
- Any TSBs that need to be applied, will be.
- Go Rhino Brush Guard / winch bumper. 9K max winch rating for this thing. Oops.
- Engo E9000 (largest allowable with the winch bumper) 9K winch. A little light, but it is a half ton truck.
- Rancho Quicklift 2.5" fitted with Moog HD coils, RS9000 shocks. More specifically TO BE fitted with Moog HD coils. I have them, just need to install them.
- Moog Problem Solver upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends.
- PowerStop slotted / dimpled rotors and Ceramic pads.
- Explorer ProComp Stainless Steel off road lights. These predate LEDs. I would actually like to upgrade these to an LED light bar, less energy used with way more light.
- AirRAID cold air intake
- SCT XCal2.
- Magnaflow high flow cats
- Pro Comp 1089 17x9 rims x5.
- 35x12.50/17 Hercules Trail Digger MT x5. Front fenders clearances via bead trim and fold, plastics trimming for clearance. These tires are absolute junk. Considering dropping back down to 285/70R17s as the 35s don't offer enough added clearance or width to be worth the added hassle and lower MPGs.
- Duracell AGM battery that is now dead. I should have had a trickle charger on it. More on battery below.
- Realistic TRC-465 AM/SSB with 102" whip and 6" SS spring. Going to lose the 102 and just use a mag mount on the roof of the truck as the 102 mount is attached to the bed rail.
- Bed Rug.
- Unknown MFG Fender flares with 1.5" added tire coverage.
- Towing harness, and Ford towing package tranny cooler.
- Line of Fire LED accessory brake / turn / tail lights.
- Haul Master hitch hauler.
- Aftermarket LED lights mounted under rear bumper and wired into reverse light circuit.
- Smoked lens headlight assemblies and thrid brake light assembly.
- Stop / turn / reverse lights converted to LED with LED compatible relays.
- Leer 122 from a early '00s Silverado, not a perfect fit, but it will seal up against my trucks bed and give me the enclosed space I need and that is all I care about at this point. Going to pick that up in a couple of days. Trying to arrange to borrow or rent a truck to get it.
- Alpicool APLT60 60 liter LG compressor dual zone refrigerator / freezer. Ordered, pending arrival.
- Ford E series van frame mount battery box with clamp and lid, en route. More battery info below just like the truck, same battery actually.
- GE 5K BTU Window unit AC. Lowest max amp usage I could find, no issues at all running it off of my Sportsman 1000 inverter generator, or a Harbor Freight 900w Tailgator 2 stroke generator. Will take the Sportsman on the road with me as the Tailgator has the extra hassle of being 2 stroke.
- 300w solar suitcase system. This will be used to charge the house battery. This will run my CPAP, laptop, mobile device chargers, and the fridge. WAY more than enough capacity. Can back up to the gen if weather is too foul..
- Obscene amounts of camping gear, port o potty, privy tent, Camplux water heater / shower,12v pump blah blah blah... More than enough to do what I need.
- Bed. Trifold twin just on the floor of the truck bed fold up to a seat during the day, OR a full memory foam custom split and made to 2 cushions lengthwise and used with a slide out frame for day use. Leaning toward the tri fold, less effort, more easily replaceable if it goes bad.
- Cabinet layout. Figuring large cabinets on passenger side so that water stored there offsets my weight on the drivers side. . Thinner cab on driver side. All top loading with hinged lids for simplicity. But exact design pending. The AC install / wall kind of precludes slide out drawers.
In camp the idea is as follows.
Pull in, set up divider wall / AC mount if needed. From Oct - May unneccessary.
Set up EZ Up behind tailgate so that hatch opens under it.
Set up side walls as wind breaks.
Lay out RV mat under EZ Up.
Set up Double Ensuite. Oh and anchor everything down in the process!
Hang the Shower box. I have my Camplux 5L mounted in an Apache 4800 waterproof / dustproof box. Will attach to the back of the cap via aluminum Z channel that has been plasti-dipped.
Set up Kitchen cook stand / stove
Set up propane system, test for leaks.
Set up chair and folding table
Enjoy, or work as needed...
Now IF I had all the money I could want to do this, I would pick a different approach, but I don't. But if budget would have allowed I would have gone with a 3/4 or 1 ton 4x4 long bed and a 4 wheel campers what is that model a Granby with the side sofa not a dinette. I'm too fat to be comfortable in a dinette.
Planned maiden voyage. Bolivar Peninsula TX. there is a constant strong breeze right at ground level off the gulf at night that drives me nuts tent camping. I am hopeful being 4' off the ground keeps me away from the blowing sand.
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Camper shell in hand for a lot less than I was expecting. Jeraco from an '07 Chevy with the '00-07 body style not the '07 up... It is a touch long, but I can make it work. Clamps on to the bed of the truck fine. However the gaps to seal it are kind of big. Looking at some thick D channel marine seal material to make the gaps and close it off. Also looking into insulation / interior carpeting options as this cap has none...
Fridge was delivered today, on end when the box is CLEARLY labelled THIS END UP. Stupid Fedex. Oh well, letting it sit right side up for at least 24 hours to let things settle where they should be....
Need to test the camplux for leaks. I might have or might not have broken it. I am an idiot sometimes...
So bottom of the truck bed to the bed lip is 22.5"
The fridge is 21.5" tall.
That's not going to leave a lot of free space if I am buildinga bench / cabinet for the fridge.
Next step, power wash the bed of the truck and the new to me cap, and seal the cap / secure it to the bed of the truck. Run in the fridge
Once the shell is sealed and mouted up. I will start laying things out using foam board as templates. Mostly because I might just PMF those dumb things.
I can't get the divider board around the cap to slide it in for the ac, So instead I am going to notch for the tailgate latch pins, and figure out how to secure the panel to the tailgate pins. Probably a captive steel strap of some sort...
So yes, progress is being made, and I can't wait until the repower is done!
Fridge was delivered today, on end when the box is CLEARLY labelled THIS END UP. Stupid Fedex. Oh well, letting it sit right side up for at least 24 hours to let things settle where they should be....
Need to test the camplux for leaks. I might have or might not have broken it. I am an idiot sometimes...
So bottom of the truck bed to the bed lip is 22.5"
The fridge is 21.5" tall.
That's not going to leave a lot of free space if I am buildinga bench / cabinet for the fridge.
Next step, power wash the bed of the truck and the new to me cap, and seal the cap / secure it to the bed of the truck. Run in the fridge
Once the shell is sealed and mouted up. I will start laying things out using foam board as templates. Mostly because I might just PMF those dumb things.
I can't get the divider board around the cap to slide it in for the ac, So instead I am going to notch for the tailgate latch pins, and figure out how to secure the panel to the tailgate pins. Probably a captive steel strap of some sort...
So yes, progress is being made, and I can't wait until the repower is done!
I've used "Camper Mounting Tape" to seal truck caps to pickup beds. A couple of strips side by side, plus a second layer, and sometimes a third layer.
Sometimes I've drilled and bolted the cap to the bed instead of using clamps that can stick out in the way.
Not much today. Got the back window of the cab of the truck washed and the front window and wall of the oh so dirty cap washed. This thing has been sitting on a pallet in a field for at least 2 years. The seals still look decent enough. I need to figure out the keys / locks situation on the cap though, and how to secure the cap from the inside...
replaced the factory third brake light assembly on the truck as it was leaking into the cab. I settled for a smoked lens LED to match the headlights and tailloghts, but honestly it will never be seen with the camper shell installed.
Need to go to home Depot to get some of that camper shell mounting tape. Probably have to do several layers of the stuff, the tops of the Chevy rails and the tops of the Ford are rather different and I want to insure I don't get any leaks.
About to go out as the rain has slacked a little and do the headlight swap. My old ones filled with water. I might wait until the LED conversion bulbs come in.
Once the cap is sealed at the front and sides, it is still like 3/4" too long for my truck bed. I am planning on just using some thick as heck weather stripping to make up that gap. I can start working on clamping the topper down, and going over it inside and out, and the bed of the truck as well, with my pressure washer, a scrub brush, and some soap. This thing needs to get cleaned!
Once clean and dry, and assuming availability, I am planning on adding a bedrug to keep my knees from getting destroyed on the truck bed ribs.
All of those items done. The friend that hauled me up to get the topper and another friend are who has a shop are going to do the engine swap for me. I will obviously pay them, but it will be a more, affordable rate than most other shops. I am paying for their time, not shop time if that makes sense...
Once running and on the road again I will work on getting the interior of the cap dressed out. Temporarily speaking I might just keep using my airbed and keep a spare with me. I don't need to go over the top for now, I am just looking for comfortable and it is... Long term will be memory foam.
replaced the factory third brake light assembly on the truck as it was leaking into the cab. I settled for a smoked lens LED to match the headlights and tailloghts, but honestly it will never be seen with the camper shell installed.
Need to go to home Depot to get some of that camper shell mounting tape. Probably have to do several layers of the stuff, the tops of the Chevy rails and the tops of the Ford are rather different and I want to insure I don't get any leaks.
About to go out as the rain has slacked a little and do the headlight swap. My old ones filled with water. I might wait until the LED conversion bulbs come in.
Once the cap is sealed at the front and sides, it is still like 3/4" too long for my truck bed. I am planning on just using some thick as heck weather stripping to make up that gap. I can start working on clamping the topper down, and going over it inside and out, and the bed of the truck as well, with my pressure washer, a scrub brush, and some soap. This thing needs to get cleaned!
Once clean and dry, and assuming availability, I am planning on adding a bedrug to keep my knees from getting destroyed on the truck bed ribs.
All of those items done. The friend that hauled me up to get the topper and another friend are who has a shop are going to do the engine swap for me. I will obviously pay them, but it will be a more, affordable rate than most other shops. I am paying for their time, not shop time if that makes sense...
Once running and on the road again I will work on getting the interior of the cap dressed out. Temporarily speaking I might just keep using my airbed and keep a spare with me. I don't need to go over the top for now, I am just looking for comfortable and it is... Long term will be memory foam.
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Crusing the Home Depot website, it looks like the tape I need is this stuff instead. High density but also MUCH thicker than the regular mounting tape. I have gaps to make up!
If it is too stiff, it may not conform to every bend/ding/scrape/etc and allow air and water to pass. You might want to consider using it in conjunction with the likely-much-softer camper mounting tape.
Typically the camper mounting tape is applied to the truck cap so that it stays with the cap (rather than on the truck bed) when the cap is removed. Perhaps apply camper mounting tape, then a thicker denser foam, and finally another layer of camper mounting tape?
So quick reminder, mostly for myself but also for anyone else listening. My intended layout is going to be roughly the following.
In the cab.
In the cab.
- My 60l / 63qt Alpicool 12v fridge. I need to figure out how to pull the 12V from the house battery to the back seat area of the cab. This will be under the passenger side back seat. Current recovery gear housed there to be moved.
- Recovery gear moved to footwell of passengers side of the back seat between the fridge and the front seat. Slide front seat all the way forward and there is way more than enough room. May actually be able to flip fridge so that it is fully facing me with the lid open. Will try that first. I need to insure the vents for the fridge are unobstructed.
- Somehow worked in this space I need to carry my 13x13 EZ Up, my Joolca Ensuite Double and silver tarp.
- Camp furniture. Folding table, Coleman folding camp kitchen, camp chairs (I like having an extra just in case I get a guest...)
- Will use clothes hanger hooks over both back doors to support a piece of dowel rod to hang a couple of coats, pants, and work shirts.
- Drivers side back seat. Doggie bed for my furry friend...
- Front passenger seat. 2 @ 5 gallon buckets with gamma seal lids for my dry, but not canned goods. Canned goods in a small plastic tote in the footwell. It is just the dog and I after all...
- T bars, with safari basket and bag. To the basket will be mounted my traction boards, shovel, and hi lift jack. The bag will house extra clothes. one of those washer plunger thing, a 5 gallon bucket, and WELL SEALED laundry materials.
- Tri Fold memory foam 6" twin mattress. This will serve as a sleep surface, and folded up can serve as an in the camper seat for me to work at.
- Storage cabinets to hold my kitchen, and the remainder of my gear excluding...
- Lockable hard shell box to house the generator, fuel cans, and port o potty.
Truck cap locks are usually only available with a few different keys. Your truck-cap keys might unlock many other truck-cap locks and other people's truck caps might unlock your truck-cap locks. I suggest different locks, especially with your desire to be able to secure the cap from the inside, and the need to account for the slightly-too-long truck-cap to truck-bed gap.
Some truck caps use two rods (one for each rear side) and a bar that rotates behind the top-middle of the tailgate. Perhaps you might fabricate something similar? Or maybe three deadbolts that need a key from the outside, but use the common lever on the inside?
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I might have to do that instead. I was trying not to cut into the height too much. I need to be able to sit on the trifold bed folded up... In case I get socked in with weather I don't want to have to stay laying down all the time, might as well just camp in a bivvy at that point.
As far as locking goes. Yeah I need to look into options. Mine has locks on both sides instead of a single central lock with the rotating arms like a garage door. Not sure what to do about that. I have found I can rotate the locks from inside the shell though...
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