The overland beater: Dodge 1500

PhilipE

Observer
The track bar you need someone to turn the wheel gently side to side to see any play in the bushings. Just grabbing it with your hands isn't going to show you much. Steering brace, unless your running massive tires and a lift. I don't see it as being a worth while investment. Many people have installed one with a new track bar. When that new track bar wears the bushings out. The wobble comes back. That item was designed before people found the track bar problem and to some people it is still the best thing sense buttered bread.

Look the control arms over good. I have seen the stock ones bend on a diesel rig. I don't know if its a normal problem on a gasser. If your running bigger tires and in low range using a lot of throttle they could bend I bet.
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
Good advice. Thanks, bro.

I'm doing a fuel sync on the thing, since I didn't really fiddle with the distributor but the computer could still fault to failsafe anyway with all the crap I had unplugged, half-plugged, and reassembled over the last 2 months or however long it's been.
Needs new ignition parts too. Plugs, cap, rotor. I reused all that crap from the previous owner because I was hedging my bets a bit. But it's time to get it tuned up. I pulled the #8 plug to see if the plenum had imploded and soaked the cylinder with oil, but it's nice and dry. Perfect color. But the gap was like 80, when it should be 35 or 40. That should clean up some of the engine running issues.

Crawling under the truck to check out the trans speed sensors and make sure everything is plugged in and working right.

But now the remodel stuff has me running around town. So, my luxury of having a 4 hour block of time to work on this pile is disappearing. Oh well. I'll make a big push this weekend since the wife will be out of town. Pizza, beer,, and grease. My three favorites.
 

Magnetixx

Member
wobble

To throw a bit of fuel on a death wobble fire, you may want to take a look at the caster on the front end. btw caster is the angle that the axle is "tipped back". if you find that your steering and suspension parts aren't obviously gakked, increasing caster by moving the lower arms forward ( i hope i'm recalling dodge front end correctly) in their frame mounts will favorably impact your situation. analogy: imagine a supermarket shopping cart with that one wheel that just wobbles and vibrates all over the place. thats not a perfect comparison because thats a trailing wheel pivot but it shows that when the pivot is improperly located, everything goes to hell.

i chased death wobble for a long time on my old xj until an old jeep nut told me that and it was fixed in a matter of minutes. this is what catches a lot of xj & tj jeep guys off because they install a lift at home and don't align anything. may not apply to your case, but it just might!

good luck!
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
Ah! Very good to know! Thanks very much for taking the time to pass that on!

I'm not sure of what I have right now. It's mostly a lot of wander since I was driving down curvy roads at 35mph, power steering going in and out with throttle, and the feel that maybe the tires were wrongly pressurized. So, I did some things to resolve some of that. Well, not really. I checked the tire pressures and had to adjust all four. I feel like the power steering needs to be fixed next, so that's what I'm doing.
I went ahead and spliced new tag light pigtails in, since the originals were hammered at the bulb end. Now I should be inspectable. We'll see.

I think I've isolated the power/rev problem to the catholic converter having loose media stuff and blocking up when under power. I heard a weird jingle and crawled under it, and it's coming from the cat. The lack of power issue made sense when I assigned it to a bad cat. I'll pull the y pipe and cat in one piece, cut off the end of the cat exhaust pipe and then yank anything I can get out of there that's bigger than a quarter, weld it back up, and reinstall it. I would do the old "yank the upstream O2 sensor and drive it around to see if there's a difference, but the O2 points right at the trans valve body. Jet of hot exhaust right on the trans? Negative.
20160519_095950_zpsyxexlljd.jpg

Changed the spark plugs finally. The Autolites were toast that came out of the other heads, gaps were around .060 or so. I installed some NGK v-powers, since the ignition is made to run with resistor plugs.
Got a (real, not fake) brass terminal cap and rotor coming in the next day or so. Wires are fine. I checked their resistance and all are still in spec.

That should get all the inspection stuff done so I can drive it around to the car wash and blast the kilograms of grease caked on the suspension from the front cover leaking for god knows how long. Once I get the suspenders blown clean, it should be easy to spot anything wrong or worn. I still have money in the budget to rebuild the whole enchilada if I have to. Apparently the steering stabilizer is garbage from the factory. Found a Rough Country that's allegedly better for 35 bucks plus the ride. The local NAPA has the track bar if I need it.
20160519_165638_zpsw3obvg23.jpg


I gotta resolve this steering issue though. I bled it with the engine off, bled it with the engine on, then dropped it back on all fours and tried to turn it and got groans of dissatisfaction. So, I'm on the trail of the problem. I just need to get the suspension hosed off to see if it's binding when on the wheels, even if it's super smooth in the air.
Throwing a pump at it will just be wasting 60 bucks if I don't do some diagnostics first.

Found a pretty good deal right now on some Kumho AT51's at Sears for 113 apiece. But I really want to wait to fit new rubber til I get the front end sorted out for safety and fun capacity. There are always some deals somewhere. I'm not super hung up on one tire right now.


On the plus side:
This turned out to be a good running truck, once I replaced the heads and unforked the redneckery in the engine compartment. I go out every morning and check start it to see if it'll crank and idle and all that. No problems at all. Great running mill.
Super happy with how it's coming along, just wish I could do more hours on it to hurry it along.
20160519_165713_zpsg7tvsw4i.jpg


I'll pull the old rad out of there after a few more hours are on this batch of coolant. Then I'll put that new rad in there and get the shroud back on.
I'm getting there, lads. I'm getting there.
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
20160519_165601_zpshm2f74fm.jpg


More coked oil carnage.

I'm trying to get everything done under the truck that I can, that way I can do other stuff while it's raining the next three days. I have a media wheel for rust/paint removal I'm going to use on the new wheels instead of sandblasting them. And I got a big container of simple green to wash the caps. That should only take a few minutes to get the wheels ready to pain and the caps shiny.
20160514_152825_zpsvkq6htxq.jpg


I really like the way Leftoflucky's truck looks with the steelies and black center caps. I'm probably going to forego the booty rings and just go black steelies.
20160216_095914 by LeftofLucky, on Flickr
 
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PhilipE

Observer
Yea that's fun removing other peoples finger prints. BTDT to many times.

In extreme cases I call the previous owners a PI. Previous idiot.

My truck had PI's that owned it. All those finger prints are long gone now. :jump:
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
Yeah, I don't like to trash the PO, but that's a nice way to say it. Getting rid of his fingerprints. :removeredX:
 

gsanders

Observer
If you want a photo of what a 2nd generation Dodge with black steelies looks like, it is attached. I can't figure out how to insert a photo directly into my post, oh well.
 

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kraven

Hegelian Scum
Highly recommended: Summit brass contact cap and rotor. Fit was so tight I had to wriggle it on there, and the part is considerably heavier and better made than the Box Store (tm) parts I removed.
264a9fc7-8cb8-498b-a5f7-a918479630cf_zpsex23kezn.jpg

Don't see that very often anymore.

25 bucks for cap and rotor. Maybe 10 bucks more than a junky one down the street. Had it in 2 days.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Have you pulled the pressure line off the back of the pump to see if the passage is obstructed?
Are these Saginaw pumps like a GM product? If so pull the pressure fitting off the back of the pump and check the spring and check ball. Lots of you tube videos cover this process and modifying the pump for more pressure. I drilled out my pump on my 1993 Suburban to I believe it was 9/32, it now steers like a 1962 Cadillac. Not so good on the highway, but great off road. 1 finger steering!
Lastly check your hoses, if they are shredding inside it will fill your pump and box full of little rubber particles.
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
I have not! That's a good idea to check that pressure line for obstructions.
There's some paint marker on the pulley, so it's been fooled with by the PO. So, the realm of possibility for it being jacked up is not exactly remote.

Not sure if it's a Saginaw pump though.

Will definitely check the hoses. Good ideas, man. Thanks!
 

kraven

Hegelian Scum
Yanked the y-pipe and dumped all this out of it.
20160521_193613_zpskuqkoxji.jpg


Reinstalled and it runs 100% better, even at idle. I was going to weld it back together but for now I'm going to band clamp it in case I have to pull it and dump more in the next couple of weeks.

Props to Dodge for making the y pipe super easy to access and remove without a lift or special tool #br549
 

justcuz

Explorer
Do you have any O2 sensor after the cat? If not your good, if you do it will mess with your long term fuel trim.
To fix it you screw in one of those spark plug non oiler spacers to fool the O2 sensor.
 

Buddha.

Finally in expo white.
Do you have any O2 sensor after the cat? If not your good, if you do it will mess with your long term fuel trim.
To fix it you screw in one of those spark plug non oiler spacers to fool the O2 sensor.

*non-fouler


I used one of those on my old S10 to kill the check engine light. Do the downstream O2's affect fuel trim? I thought it was just the up streams.
 

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