The overland beater: Dodge 1500

[kraven]

Yeah, I used the deeper brass ones, so there was more surface area contact with the block (friction), and used red loctite to seal them to the block. Generally, it's a friction fit, but most builders like to use some kind of sealer or locker on them. I always use red loc-tite.

You can't get a hammer on them, so I just fit some extensions together and tapped them in remotely.
The one behind the engine mount was a pain (you have to jack up the engine and remove the engine mount from the frame and engine), but the one above the starter is pretty easy. I was thinking about installing a block heater instead, you know in place of the plug. But I can always jerk that plug out and install a block heater any time I need to with just a hammer, screwdriver, and a big socket.

Looking to sort out the timing on the engine today by static timing it, so I can see what the PO did that needs to be corrected.

I'm going to get it running before I undertake changing the oilpan gasket and rear main seal. Just to be sure. Also want to circulate some oil through the heads to make sure everything works and to get the crud I probably loosened into the filter or pan. Then I can change the oil with the gaskets and install a new filter.
Already have the new filter waiting.

 

[drewactual]

timing issues? ignition timing?

the only thing not scripted that can be done is 'indexing' the CPS- which I always thought was a bad idea and never did it... if you're talking valve timing, you've already attacked that, no?

 

[kraven]

Yeah, it's ignition timing. I'm going to double check everything on the dizzy, since I haven't had the cap off at all with the heads and cam chain and freeze plugs being the big focus. I tore all the plug wires off it and put them back on, so I probably screwed something up or I have crossfiring between wires because they're not loomed, grounding on something, etc. Routine mechanics stuff.
It popped through the intake, so I probably have something wrong. It's not unheard of for me to make mistakes after I work all day and then come home and work on projects.

Also need to make sure none of the valves are hanging up and are getting oil pressure through the push tubes. So, I left the valve covers off and am going to eyeball the rockers to make sure nothing is amiss. I only plan on running it for a short period to verify those things. Then I'll do the oil pan and check the oil pump for wear, install the new pickup, and install the water pump, fan, and fill it with coolant and be done. Sounds easy. Piece of cake.

Wish my thrust washers would get here. I'd really like to close the rear end up and get it back on the tires.
edit: battery was getting close to being low (like 12.01 volts) so I put it on the trickle. I read on the intertubes that these trucks do funny things with a low battery.

Next up is the transfer case, I guess. But we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

 

[kraven]

Came home, put the battery in, checked the rotor position and wires, hit the key, it turns and almost starts. Then... *click*
Fuel pump relay starts cycling like 4x/second, gauges go limp, odometer is off...

I stood there and laughed like Hanks in Money Pit. I started to do some diagnostics, but instead I came in to make myself some eats.
Sitting here trying to see if Amazon Prime or Netflix has Money Pit streaming...

 

[Buddha.]

That's amazing. Keep your head up.

 

[kraven]

So, I found The Money Pit on Netflix and watched the whole thing. Walter Fielding was saved by celebrating and recognizing the small victories, like the stairs suddenly being back in his house, or a doorknob catching in still wet plaster.
Like Tupac said "even if you're fed up, you gotta keep your head up." Right, Buddha? Of course.

I got parts in the mail! Sweet small victory. Didn't expect them til tomorrow. Thrust washers, temp sensor, and temp sensor pigtail have arrived. Now I can put the rear end back together and finish that chapter of this build.

I put my optima back on the trickle charger and I'm going to see where it tops out in terms of voltage in the morning.

Pulled the starter and gave it a good cleaning of the connections too.

Took the wife for tacos and Micheladas. It's la vie en rose up in here.

 

[kraven]

Been out of town for a bit, adventuring.

Came back to find the temp sensor and thrust washers are wrong...

So, I'm stopped a bit. But I'm listening to Bob Marley and working on the tail lights, flipping through the LMC catalog looking at bits, like a rear bumper, and ain't worrying about nothing. It's like 70F here and the sun is shining. I returned the sensor and now I guess I can find something to do on one of the other projects (motorcycle, garden, old musclecar, house...).

I went ahead and ordered a new radiator since the one in the truck is pretty mongled and has some putty on it I didn't notice til last week.
When the rad gets here, I can finish installing the fan and stuff. I'll get the coolant sensor on there and squared away.

I cleaned the starter cable contacts and the starter, bolted it back on, and got the Optima recharged.

Got an intermittent weird electrical problem, but I'll get it figured out. If I don't, I'll pay someone to figure it out for me.

Ready to get on the road with this pile.

grand total today: 2474.18

 

[justcuz]

I did the same damn thing last week. FIL has a Mercury Sable station wagon, doing funny electrical stuff with electric windows, dash lighting, wipers and some other stuff.
So I look at different sources and the consensus is a bad neutral start switch causes this. A week later I go and replaced the switch but the car won't start because the battery has died.
I charge it and everything is fine...but, I bet if that battery was fully charged when I diagnosed it, all of that crap would have worked.
Lesson learned, luckily not at my expense, other than my time. Always have a fully charged battery in these vehicles.
25 symptoms could present themselves, all related to low voltage from a half dead battery.

Don't feel bad, my Dad used to tell me; "It's just a bunch of metal, plastic, rubber and upholstery, it cannot outsmart you, but your frustration can cause you to overthink things and doubt yourself"
One step at a time brother. Good on you for walking away when things get ****ty.

 

[kraven]

Yep. Also: I'd rather it go ahead and nickel and dime me in the driveway than on the road. Here I don't worry about being in a hurry because I don't need to drive it. So, I can take my time, do it right, and buy good parts at better prices.

Looks like my intermittent issues might be the ignition switch, since they famously die when they get some age on them and are just upstream from a tilt column.

On the upside, this truck has tilt, cruise, and heated mirrors. So, I got that going for me, which is nice.

 

[kraven]

Yeah, gross, dude.

So, I pulled the lock/switch assembly after I went to Harbor Freight and found that the 100 piece set of security bits is only 9.99 right meow. (Also got a coupon for 25% off this weekend.)

There wasn't anything scorched or whatever. So, I just cleaned the ew(!) off of it and hit the pluglets with contact cleaner, wriggled it back in place, and gave it a whirl. Worked perfectly... I remain positive. It's 70F and sunny.

Moving on to the engine again, it's still farting through the intake like it's not timed properly. So, now I can finally deal with that and get it squared away, start the engine, and we can all move on to new and exciting problems.

Edit: Engine timing is fixed. Had a serious brain misfire. It's all good now. Got oil pressure and the new heads are working great. Just have to bolt the y pipe on, finish the rear end up, and change the rear main seal and I'm all done with the current stuff on the punch list.

 

[justcuz]

Dang that thing was nasty, looks like someone spilled a soda in there.

 

[Buddha.]

Like Tupac said "even if you're fed up, you gotta keep your head up." Right Buddha?

Sorry can't help you, I've always been a biggie guy.

 

[kraven]

There's good news and bad news:
Good:
Got the front dress back on the engine this evening. Everything but the fan shroud. I'm going to start it with the old radiator still in there, just in case there's any old detritus floating around to catch in the tubes.
I think it's probably a good idea to let the water pump cure over night and then go back to retorque everything tomorrow.

The small Mopar v8's tend to have a problem with the front cover and water pump leaking. The water necks leak, but that's mostly due to the bolts going into the water below them. So, you just have to seal them.
I cranked the engine again today dry (no water) and it idles smooth, holds about 40lbs of oil pressure at idle, and squirts up to the rockers no problemo. Runs really well, considering the cheap wires, and the lunched cap and rotor, and old plugs.

Bad:
Somehow one of the thrust washers got jammed into the spider gear/case space where it's supposed to go. This was while I was assembling it, not afterward (which would have been a disaster). So, I manhandled it a little hard and mongled the washer. Now, I gotta get more/different washers and hope that I didn't score that spider gear in the process.

Left on the punch list:
Rear main seal
Oil pan seal
Oil pump check
Oil pump pickup swap
Third member install and setup

Started working on the tail lights today. No stop/turn lights, which, according to some forums, means the hazard switch may have gack in it. Remember that steering column pic up the page? Yeah, it's in there. Could also be the trailer hitch wiring

Pics tomorrow. Almost have a completed task.

 

[kraven]

So, Spicer doesn't make service parts for this third member (washers, spiders, etc). They just sell you a whole new unit for about three fiddy.
This is why I can't seem to get the right thrust washers. There are exactly -0 available, unless you have an open diff. It is so super weird to me that they don't offer service parts for a trac-lok. But I even went to the local powertrain parts place and got the same response from the angry old man that runs the place.


I'm familiar with the whole "you can't get there from here" idea of manufacturers obsoleting parts. I mostly work on old Fords. So, I put it back together with the old washers and I'll set the preload and whatnot on it, drive it a bit, and see if I can go ahead and find a rear from a 2500 to put under it. The washers should hold up for a while. They're just not good for another 50k miles.

Engine is holding water with 0 leaks, and the t-stat is opening and closing alright. I'm running straight water in it right now to clean out the water passages, since the PO filled it with all kinds of well water and Blue Devil and Cthulu only knows what else. I'll dump that liquid out after a few more heat cycles and make sure I don't fill my new radiator with bits and pieces of stuff that isn't water or antifreeze.

 

[justcuz]

Phillip Hoffman reminds me of a fat Matt Damon.