The one thought that comes to mind is if the 6 aluminum brackets bolted to plywood will be strong enough to stand the test of time. I realize your deck is quite light, but I am used to seeing the box mounts on theyttt bottom of mine that are 1/2”x3” flat stock welded onto 2.5” channel that is at least 5/16” wall. It might even be 5/8”x3” (I’m not inclined to go check in the middle of the night). I’m well aware that plywood can be strong, but with a load on rough roads I’d worry about possible failure.
I’d personally go with thicker angle for the mounts and have a backing plate to sandwich the wood in the middle off. Am I just over thinking it?
I don't think you are over thinking.
Depends on the use scenario, as for keeping a 400lb blob on the back I think they are more than enough. For an ambo everything is overbuilt.
As I mentioned, "I also plan on using this to mess around with various types of captured spring type mounting systems, evaluate chassis flex, etc."
I think the backing plates are definitely justified, and if the weight of the flatbed goes up significantly (or in the case of a camper box) something other than aluminum would likely be necessary.
The camper box will likely have a very different type of mounting system. In fact I'm 90% sure I want the box attached to the cab with the rear frame rails captive spring mounted with some sort of (manual or auto) lockdown system for non off road use.
It would likely be a "rail on rail" system where the frame rails of the camper sit directly on the frame rails of the chassis more evenly distributing the weight (and giving a lower floor height). IMO all of the pivot type mounting systems place the floor of the box to high off the ground.
I will get into more about that later, when the camper box starts I might have this thread moved to a different section at that time.
B
