The ultimate Aussie expedition camper

[Billhilly]

I continue to over think my (one day) build, but after thinking more recently about a full alloy build, I have been thinking this last week about a folded steel sub frame/body frame, with glued alloy skin, blown (polyurethane) insulation, and glued on inner skin. By folded, I mean instead of all RHS, certain structural members, door frames, braces, jogs, etc could be done on a folder out of different gauge flat steel. With the (folder and) right mid sized plasma cutter, you could create some pretty clever structural components. I think done this way it could end up significantly lighter than a full RHS type build. With the right gauge alloy skin and blown insulation I think this would be a good mix.
Hard to describe the picture in my head, but with some of the angle/corner detail of your build, I can see some clever solutions. Factor in exterior door detail to include seal faces etc and I think it (folded steel) offers some good options.

 

[Ford Prefect]

Rob I am still so amazed that you did not know about this forum! I remember reading about your wot1, and then a yer later seeing on here that you had started wot2, and being thrilled to read as you went through that process! I thought for sure you must have known about this forum, but simply did not frequent it?

Well, at least we can see this one through with you!

Question for you... I am planning to build using a freezer truck. Have you considered looking for one of those as a base for your truck? ...well insulated, stout enough. I don't know, just a thought.

 

[thjakits]

Hi Rob,


.....the pvc tube and glued on skin is just an "outragous" idea -easy to build a "build-frame" - then the glued on skin takes over structural duties.

Also look into KEE-clamp construction, if you foresee lots of modifications on the run....
[http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/store/components/kee-klamp.html]
[https://www.google.com/search?q=KEE...&sa=X&ei=w8HKUrmwLZPgoASbjIGYCA&ved=0CFkQsAQ]

Cheers,

thjakits

 

[Rumpig]

not sure if you ever get on MySwag forum Graynomad, but they have some great builds on there at times. here's a few links to threads you may be interested in with this next build.....
i'm not sure if you need to be a member of the forum to see these sections (some you do some you don't), but i thought you might like to see something like this anyhow.
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28199.0
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=33424.msg531013;topicseen#new

 

[McBride]

Hi thjakits

Thanks for all that input.

I always thought that steel was as good as or better that ali for the same weight, at least with the types of alloys I would be working with.


I was tending that way a few posts back, but I agree even more now.

All in all I think I'm just a lot more comfortable using steel, and it means I can do things piecemeal and not have to buy $7000 of materials up front and then be unable to make many (or indeed any) changes as I get bright ideas.


I actually have a DIY composite for the floors in Wot2, that has worked very well.


If you've read my previous build blogs (especially Wot 1) you will see that I have a BOE (Batchelor of Over Engineering). Like most lay people I do what looks about right then double it to be on the safe side. I also tend to ignore the support given by other structural members and the skin itself and make just about everything strong enough to do the whole job alone. Then add another 3 things that also could to the whole job.

I'm getting much better and will try to be very vigilant with this design.

One advantage I have this time is a 3D CAD package and this forum to run ideas past, in the past it's just been me and the welder.


Yes I can't see myself with a 3" hole saw, but I may have some of the subframe laser cut or buy a plasma cutter (good excuse to get a new tool)


Do you mean would the Sikaflex work on PVC. I would assume so but there is special solvent-based glue for PVC that would be better. You can separate PVC that's been glued with it but it's almost always easier to just replace as much pipe as you have to to fix the problem.

I've have used PCV for water storage in the past, however because it's round it's a very inefficient method unless of course you have a nook or cranny that cannot be used for anything else. Of course the steel is hollow which can be good for storing engine oil and such, as it happens I'm already using some of the steel frame as piping to help pressurise the tool boxes underneath.

Graynomad,

I recently purchased an expedition outfitted G Wagen with a custom camper. I have a bunch of pics and details on the G Wagen forum.

The camper has a 1" square tube steel frame with aluminum exterior skin. The interior is a thin marine grade plywood covered with formica. Between is 1' foam insulation. As thjakits suggested, the frame has lots of triangulation.

I've only done about 2k miles in it, half being offroad. The camper is super rigid. It is fairly heavy - just under 7,000 lbs fully loaded for an extended trip (@6,500lbs empty). Because it is so small it is nimble and drives easily.

With good choices in materials I bet you could build yours notably lighter.

I look forward to watching your build.

William

 

[dunwurkin]

Camper buildup. Any chance this has been built yet am dying to see it

I have been reading this thread hanging out to see the finished product is it finished yet is it talked about elsewhere I have a 79 series land cruiser with a tradesman canopy gull wing doors setting up for travel have been very interested in all the comments about yours looking forward to more keep up the pics it help others so much thanks kate

 

[graynomad]

Sorry for my tardy response, been real busy with an electronics design contract and this sort of project has had to take a back seat.

With the (folder and) right mid sized plasma cutter, you could create some pretty clever structural components. I think done this way it could end up significantly lighter than a full RHS type build.

Trouble is you need a larger pan brake or other method of folding. I have done some reasonable folds by just clamping the sheet between strong angle or RHS but it's hard to do a good job.

Rob I am still so amazed that you did not know about this forum!

I suspect it didn't exist when I built Mk1, dunno why I never found it when I was doing Mk2 though.

I am planning to build using a freezer truck. Have you considered looking for one of those as a base for your truck?

Yes I've thought about using that panel many times, even found some pretty cheap ones from a dismantled freezer once. I think it would work well but it would show the scratches a lot.

Also look into KEE-clamp construction, if you foresee lots of modifications on the run....

I don't foresee modifications at all Once it's built that's it. I would worry about the flexing in those joints, but as you say once skinned it would be ok I think.

not sure if you ever get on MySwag forum

Not heard of it, thanks for the links I've had a good browse. I'm not a fan of camper trailers but certainly the techniques involved are the same.

The camper has a 1" square tube steel frame with aluminum exterior skin. The interior is a thin marine grade plywood covered with formica. Between is 1' foam insulation. As thjakits suggested, the frame has lots of triangulation.

That's the way I'm thinking. 7000lbs is pretty good I think, depending on what you had loaded. I don't think I've ever seen a 4x4 under that when properly kitted for outback travel, 7500 is more like it.

is it finished yet

Ha, I wish. No it's not finished and in fact there will be a delay because I can't afford to build it right now. That might actually be a good thing because some of the materials will get cheaper, most notably the flexible solar panels and LifePo4 batteries and their controlling systems. Also the composite panels may get cheaper, in which case I could go back to that material.

I'm still working on the design though when I can, I might run the 3-point mount past you guys soon to get some feedback.

 

[mrFelix]

Rob
Have you seen this stuff for the interior fitout looks quite comprehensive and light, no idea what it's like as I just stumbled across it

http://www.duraliteaustralia.com.au/applications.php

 

[graynomad]

Thanks I haven't seen that before. Looks quite nice at first, I'll delve a little deeper.

 

[alan]

Rob
Have you seen this stuff for the interior fitout looks quite comprehensive and light, no idea what it's like as I just stumbled across it

http://www.duraliteaustralia.com.au/applications.php

Looks very similar to this.. www.multipanel.com.au

 

[Fugly]

Bump
Hay! Rob
Any updates????

 

[graynomad]

Sorry, no there hasn't been any progress.

The project is on hold for a while, I have to build a shipping container house and then a workshop first, when the dust has settled from all that and I have a functional workshop I should be able to get back onto the camper.

This is what I'm up to at present (part of the house)

I have started a page on my site for it, not a lot there now though

http://robgray.com/graynomad/gov/index.php

 

[Overland Hadley]

Any info on your container home build? This is something I am seriously considering, and I would be very interested to know what you are doing.

 

[mrFelix]

looks more like something they would use on Christmas Island or Nauru ya mad bastard lol

 

[graynomad]

looks more like something they would use on Christmas Island or Nauru

Another product from Rob "Rough as guts" Gray.

Not many details on the build yet, I will document parts of it but not as much as I did with the motorhomes. It more or less starts here in my blog

http://robgray.com/graynomad/issues/issue_070/index.php#container_house

I have quite a few more photos to add, I should do that in a day or so.

What I am doing is not a fancy house as is often seen for container houses, it's a simple, cheap and somewhat rustic place for us to live when we're not travelling. It consists of two 20-footers and an enclosed area between them. I'm happy to answer questions here on offline.