The Wanderers build

[superbuickguy]

It was a fun weekend with my wife - but the Blazer had to languish, alone, in the shop.
That said, parts did arrive
the bearing to adapt my t-case to the NV4500

I may use the spare case since it's mostly apart

where the bearing goes

brake lines

all was not happy because the rears are a 7/16 banjo fitting rather then 3/8 (like the fronts).... so reordered those and these will go into the brake line bucket
front shocks arrived and they're 'just right' for length

 

[superbuickguy]

More parts arrived today... rear shocks

also the dies for putting pipe beads

directions were non-existent but figured it out

and a bead

then paint the cross over coolant tube

figured I'd use the later NP205 (one is a 77, the other is a 78 - the 78 has 30 spline outputs

the onto taking the NP205 apart so I can get the bearing bored

for reasons below, I didn't have the patience to knock this roll pin out

then an unintended visitor... quails are cute but utterly stupid. Of course, Luigi was in heaven

fun fact, the quail will sit on the fan until it gets flinged off...

and the other visitor - waiting for its tow to get fixed... again. lord I hate Jeeps

 

[ITTOG]

fun fact, the quail will sit on the fan until it gets flinged off...

I would pay money to see that.

 

[superbuickguy]

so today's distraction - make a shelf for the portable ac for my wife's truck

repurposed a dog dish stand... attached it the seatbelt anchors

and created a second shelf for the 2nd 24v battery

installed

in Blazer stuff, the np205 is fully apart

 

[superbuickguy]

so today's distraction - make a shelf for the portable ac for my wife's truck

repurposed a dog dish stand... attached it the seatbelt anchors

and created a second shelf for the 2nd 24v battery

installed

in Blazer stuff, the np205 is fully apart

 

[superbuickguy]

I would pay money to see that.

they are one, dumb bird. tasty, though

 

[superbuickguy]

brake lines arrived... yay-ish

so here's the deal - no one had the parts to make one-piece lines. So I got to make up more universal... which isn't a huge issue except it has 2 new places for it to develop leaks... just for the record, all that new leakiness didn't save me much money either.

fuel filtering... decided to use a Chevrolet Colorado/Silverado (it's the same) fuel filter set up. Has a pump inside and as long as filter makers keep making filters - should work pretty well...

and got the seals and a rebuild book for the np205

 

[superbuickguy]

time to shorten the shock mount

chop and pivot

and get a MAJOR part done... extend the vent hoses

then realize I ordered the 'wrong' end on a brake line... oh well, easy fix (not really)

 

[superbuickguy]

back to the transfer case

it fits

cleaning and working on subparts

but still parts to buy... I need 15 of these

need 2 good ones, have one

need two good yokes - since I'm getting new driveshafts, I'll upgrade to either 1350 or 1410 u-joints on the front and a flat so I can use a cv-joint

 

[superbuickguy]

back to the Suburban.... first, kill the wasps

this might be the problem... I hope so..... I had a wire overheat and thought I fixed it all... I didn't

I did now

I'll say this to remind myself. I'm the type who'd rather just go online and order something. However, because this build has some nuance, I reached out to Tom Wood's (driveshaft company) and asked several questions about what yokes I needed for my t-case. Beside giving me all sorts of great answers, it also saved me money AND got me a part that isn't listed on their website. Pictures when the parts arrive, but my experience reminded me that it can be quite helpful to simply pick up a phone....NP 208 front flange works as a rear flange a NP205

the only difference is the outside diameter of the np208 flange - not optimal, but free... thus perfect

the whole point of switching to a flat flange is to lengthen the driveshaft to reduce angles... sure, not a lot, but a bit is better then nothing

 

[superbuickguy]

OMG FIRE!!!!!! quick, get the explosives out of the shop (on another forum someone was proclaiming that I need another building for chemicals, welding gases, and any other flammable stuff.... oh and a fire system in the shop (which is all steel).... smh

in other news, welded the brackets for the shocks on the rear axle and the tabs for the brake lines

and mounted the T for the brakes

the other news was I spent quality time cleaning and rearranging....

 

[superbuickguy]

I haven't hit it yet, but it was just a matter of time - the problem - you can't reach the bolt heads on the frame without removing the tank or the bumper. You can't remove the bumper without removing the hitch... and the tank is mostly full... so I used fire*

sadly the fire system I don't have nor the safe space for flammables was used in this wonton demonstration of irritating fire officials

I also think several lithium batteries were in their chargers too....

also painted the transfer case... that was out too when I torched off the hitch....

I know this is silly, but I'm going give one last shot at getting the hitch out...the right thing to do would be to stuff a m80 inside then heat the outside with a torch....

also ran the lines for the rear brakes then hamfisted a fitting so now waiting for parts

looks good, though

*note, on another forum someone told me I was very unsafe because I didn't have a fire shed (for flammables) and a sprinkler system in my all steel shop.... then proclaimed he got a fire badge out of a cracker jack box.... (okay, the last 6 words were ad-lib)..... as such, and since I'm a complete respector of authority and their stupid rules.... I mock. I know, seems so unlike me... lol

 

[superbuickguy]

time to get a bit of paint on the bare metal

and finish the brake lines... but to fix means taking more apart...

remove the lines, rebend the lines, move the connection to behind the spring, drill a new hole and connect

and done

of course, had to hamfist and now I'm waiting for a new adapter (leaks)

front axle had a 1310 u-joint, now 1350

the old one, good thing I changed because it had a worn spot (would have leaked)

and done

went with flange type u-joint plates - gives me a longer driveshaft

then bled the clutch

only way to bleed

good spot for this

 

[superbuickguy]

continuing with brakes, but after a commercial break with the Suburban
I finally got a code (36 and 81). 81 I know about - when I bought the truck the seller mentioned the transmission was starting to go... that was 40,000 miles ago...anyway, 36 led me to a Youtube video that ....
this little bit is a bunch of resistors that go bad over time. When I put this new pump on it, the resistor bit was missing...for good reason, you don't need it

simply remove it

and plug the other 'end' back into the Optic Sensor

now, before anyone gets excited - I've done everything else to fix the surge problem....thankfully, this is pretty easy to test and that will happen tomorrow

now back to our regularly schedule Blazer update
got more shiny bits - there were enough bearings that were questionable that I bought new, Japanese bearings

and the right seals for the new output flanges

then continued with brakes.... this time e-brakes

needed to make a bracket to attach to the OEM brake cable

attach to here

like this

and then

didn't finish because it seems I managed to 180* install stuff... ah well

 

[superbuickguy]

what's wrong with this picture? everything.... first the bracket attached to the caliper is attached to the wrong caliper, second the caliper is on the wrong side, and finally, the bracket on the axle is in the wrong spot... pictures

now correct

had to extend a cable

and I got the last parts to adapt the nv4500 to the np 205... this is as bulletproof as it gets... nice pieces
adapter that allows you to 'clock' the transfer case (if you wish)

this is pretty cool, it replaces an aluminum part that's actually leaking on mine...

Advance adapters ain't cheap, but it's solid quality. 4x4lugnuts (the JO who put the calipers together.... not so much)... here, let me put him out of business. The cable set is a wilwood part, the calipers are simply 1977-79 Seville and El Dorado rear calipers. Save yourself money.... don't use him. I suppose I wouldn't be as annoyed if his advertising is "well, you can save money or save time with my parts"... how does he figure? can't tell his right from left.... screw him, the parts are available elsewhere for less money AND you'll get pictures that actually mean something.