ITTOG
Well-known member
Exactly! Don't waste a minute!
The Wanderers build
- Thread starter superbuickguy
- Start date
superbuickguy
Explorer
never realized that diesels had a higher oil pressure gauge...
leaks
see how the gasket material is squeezing out now? probably will still leak but once I reseal it, it'll be fine
and the problem
not quite long enough
onto boost
pulled the cap off the boost controller
not sure what the spring was in there (it was stout) but now it's a .8 bar (read 11 psi)
I have several, other springs (up to 28 psi)
leaks
see how the gasket material is squeezing out now? probably will still leak but once I reseal it, it'll be fine
and the problem
not quite long enough
onto boost
pulled the cap off the boost controller
not sure what the spring was in there (it was stout) but now it's a .8 bar (read 11 psi)
I have several, other springs (up to 28 psi)
superbuickguy
Explorer
something something one headlight
Friday I went to Upullit for the valence - got a few extra bits, like the spring that holds the headlight bucket in place
then tonight I dug around in my H1 parts and found the tachometer plug
and the AC plug
Friday I went to Upullit for the valence - got a few extra bits, like the spring that holds the headlight bucket in place
then tonight I dug around in my H1 parts and found the tachometer plug
and the AC plug
superbuickguy
Explorer
drove it, only 2 psi boost... hmmm... either gauge or spring...
not much to report today.... did other things and got sucked into a forklift hole... so very little done on anything important
to illustrate, cutting these took an hour... because that's what it took to extend the cord on my shear....
the reweld this back together because I can use it
the other hole.... a 73 Corvette... motor is finally out... think I see the problem with the electricals
for those who don't know C3s... that's the ground cable for the motor.... we had intermittent dying issues.... turn signal issues... and on and on....
not much to report today.... did other things and got sucked into a forklift hole... so very little done on anything important
to illustrate, cutting these took an hour... because that's what it took to extend the cord on my shear....
the reweld this back together because I can use it
the other hole.... a 73 Corvette... motor is finally out... think I see the problem with the electricals
for those who don't know C3s... that's the ground cable for the motor.... we had intermittent dying issues.... turn signal issues... and on and on....
superbuickguy
Explorer
the irony is people complained at the picture size (loading speed of the page) when I uploaded 'better' pictures.It sucks when progress gets slowed but great job sticking with it. I like to see this old beast come back to life.
It is easy to see in this thread you have two great skills: auto repair/build and taking blurry pictures.We enjoy nonetheless.
fwiw, it bugs me too, but not enough to spend the money on a 'decent' auto focus camera.... the current one cost $300 and since there's really no payback here, making myself spend 1000 or more on a camera is just not something I'm yet willing to do.
superbuickguy
Explorer
not a lot of time to work on this - had to put my lawn stabber together... but I digress
to remind, a few holes in the floor
thus I make bigger holes
I honestly think someone went at the floor with a pickaxe... not sure why... but it is what it is
also started putting a/c pieces on....
I need to do some adjustment to the hard lines
as far as I got
to remind, a few holes in the floor
thus I make bigger holes
I honestly think someone went at the floor with a pickaxe... not sure why... but it is what it is
also started putting a/c pieces on....
I need to do some adjustment to the hard lines
as far as I got
ITTOG
Well-known member
Yeah I wasn't suggesting a change. Carry on as you are.
superbuickguy
Explorer
a bit further along
need to find my copper backer.... then weld this up.... easy peasy.
need to find my copper backer.... then weld this up.... easy peasy.
superbuickguy
Explorer
Buy copper... at least 3/16" thick
chop a piece to make fit
so rules:
1) the gap can be as wide as you wish it to be.... Milner, don't listen because this really is siliconing with steel
2) the back must be clean too
3) great is clamp the copper to the bottom of the weld - the tighter the better. this also means deburr the hole
4) you can also use aluminum bar
so here's the deal - as long as the copper or aluminum is clean, you can literally lay the bead inbetween the edges using a tack method. there's another way, but first to illustrate this
notice the hole is actually wider then the 3/16" copper?
I can't clamp here - which leads to varying clever solutions... in this case, the frame is below the joint - so I dig out a bunch of things I think I can jam in the hole
none are right
but found something
see the tacks? how they're not falling through?
the other benefit is the copper or aluminum works as a heat sink
nice, smooth weld... we'll talk about the upper one next
Did you know that you can use welding rod WITH a mig? say you find yourself chasing a hole because the rust went further than you thought it would? you can't back it because it's enclosed, what to do?
while I advise using silicone bronze wire, you can also use ER70s (standard steel)
yep, you feed it just like you do when tigging or you tack the ends across the hole... the trick/goal here is to add enough metal that when you weld between the stitches, it simply looks like a wide weld.... never do this for structure but bodywork? especially floorboards. the thing here is it doesn't add so much heat as any other method - so you run less chance of warping. If the part is extra rusty, though, silicone bronze is your friend
in other news... stupid steering columns, I went to start this yesterday and the ignition switch seemed disconnected from the starting rod.... I'm sure the bottle opener looking part snapped... buy new? would be easier. Borrow out of another column? sure but there is another solution - they make rebuild kits for these because of the penchant of people stealing this trucks by breaking the column. I may add a permanent fix to that to reduce that risk....
to be continued
chop a piece to make fit
so rules:
1) the gap can be as wide as you wish it to be.... Milner, don't listen because this really is siliconing with steel
2) the back must be clean too
3) great is clamp the copper to the bottom of the weld - the tighter the better. this also means deburr the hole
4) you can also use aluminum bar
so here's the deal - as long as the copper or aluminum is clean, you can literally lay the bead inbetween the edges using a tack method. there's another way, but first to illustrate this
notice the hole is actually wider then the 3/16" copper?
I can't clamp here - which leads to varying clever solutions... in this case, the frame is below the joint - so I dig out a bunch of things I think I can jam in the hole
none are right
but found something
see the tacks? how they're not falling through?
the other benefit is the copper or aluminum works as a heat sink
nice, smooth weld... we'll talk about the upper one next
Did you know that you can use welding rod WITH a mig? say you find yourself chasing a hole because the rust went further than you thought it would? you can't back it because it's enclosed, what to do?
while I advise using silicone bronze wire, you can also use ER70s (standard steel)
yep, you feed it just like you do when tigging or you tack the ends across the hole... the trick/goal here is to add enough metal that when you weld between the stitches, it simply looks like a wide weld.... never do this for structure but bodywork? especially floorboards. the thing here is it doesn't add so much heat as any other method - so you run less chance of warping. If the part is extra rusty, though, silicone bronze is your friend
in other news... stupid steering columns, I went to start this yesterday and the ignition switch seemed disconnected from the starting rod.... I'm sure the bottle opener looking part snapped... buy new? would be easier. Borrow out of another column? sure but there is another solution - they make rebuild kits for these because of the penchant of people stealing this trucks by breaking the column. I may add a permanent fix to that to reduce that risk....
to be continued
superbuickguy
Explorer
a bit of work on the blazer but I have the 100k service to do to my Colorado... and it did take all of 8 hours to do it
as is usual, void every warranty
with that said, I'm going to wait to see if I'm right about which side is which on the pump before I crimp
as is usual, void every warranty
with that said, I'm going to wait to see if I'm right about which side is which on the pump before I crimp
superbuickguy
Explorer
well this is fun
the problem
the tool I didn't know I had
you don't need all of the bearings
how far I needed to go
where I ended
explanation
the ignition switch wouldn't engage the starter ... I've had these apart before, but it's been a long, long time - so the fun of relearning and remembering. If I cared enough, I'd bet I have the one missing ball bearing.... but alas, I don't.
I'll finish tomorrow - I needed that picture of the start to put it back together, I could have downloaded and continued but I didn't.
the problem
the tool I didn't know I had
you don't need all of the bearings
how far I needed to go
where I ended
explanation
the ignition switch wouldn't engage the starter ... I've had these apart before, but it's been a long, long time - so the fun of relearning and remembering. If I cared enough, I'd bet I have the one missing ball bearing.... but alas, I don't.
I'll finish tomorrow - I needed that picture of the start to put it back together, I could have downloaded and continued but I didn't.
NevadaLover
Forking Icehole
Been there done that, hated the engineers involved!
Keep up the good work, it'll get done and then the fun starts.
Keep up the good work, it'll get done and then the fun starts.
superbuickguy
Explorer
still working on the column. Need to buy a signal mechanism
if you look closely, you'll see why
and I'm still fighting the switches...
ps.... did you see it? it's missing a canceling spring....
if you look closely, you'll see why
and I'm still fighting the switches...
ps.... did you see it? it's missing a canceling spring....
NevadaLover
Forking Icehole
still working on the column. Need to buy a signal mechanism
if you look closely, you'll see why
and I'm still fighting the switches...
ps.... did you see it? it's missing a canceling spring....
A junkyard is a great place to buy those parts, vans use the same parts and the steering column is much easier to remove.