jim65wagon
Well-known member
I'd recommend a set of custom built Deavers or Alcan Springs, combined with a set of Timbren or AirCell bumpstops. The custom springs can be designed to carry the load and ride at the height you want for that load.
The War Wagon: A 2005 Toyota Tundra AC's transformation to Overlanding Rig
- Thread starter CrewServed
- Start date
I'd recommend a set of custom built Deavers or Alcan Springs, combined with a set of Timbren or AirCell bumpstops. The custom springs can be designed to carry the load and ride at the height you want for that load.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Yep, I don't plan on carrying much more over the rear axle besides a rooftop tent and expedition cargo. Once it's all put together, I'll see if I need to do anything with the leaf springs.
Okay, so today I made two critical mistakes. The first is to allot only one day for redoing the suspension. The second was trying to meet the timeframe.
ichimonji came over and helped me get the PS front suspension taken apart. We ended up spending a lot of time scratching our heads, but with the addition of my three brothers' brainpower and muscle, we got the PS front done. DS is mostly complete. Got the new damper and springs installed, and that goofy damned spacer is gone, gone, GONE. Tomorrow after work I'll put the new UCA in and get the brake line and ABS cable put back in place, and call the front end done.
For now.
Didn't get many pictures, but here's what I got. I suspect, however, that it isn't very useful.
The clamshell spring compressor isn't very useful in this tight space. Oh, and the entire assembly can come right the hell out, anyway.
Quick side-by-side of the unsprung OEM and OME springs.
PS is done! Is that little doodad above the uniball joint supposed to stick up that high?
Okay, so today I made two critical mistakes. The first is to allot only one day for redoing the suspension. The second was trying to meet the timeframe.
ichimonji came over and helped me get the PS front suspension taken apart. We ended up spending a lot of time scratching our heads, but with the addition of my three brothers' brainpower and muscle, we got the PS front done. DS is mostly complete. Got the new damper and springs installed, and that goofy damned spacer is gone, gone, GONE. Tomorrow after work I'll put the new UCA in and get the brake line and ABS cable put back in place, and call the front end done.
For now.
Didn't get many pictures, but here's what I got. I suspect, however, that it isn't very useful.
The clamshell spring compressor isn't very useful in this tight space. Oh, and the entire assembly can come right the hell out, anyway.
Quick side-by-side of the unsprung OEM and OME springs.
PS is done! Is that little doodad above the uniball joint supposed to stick up that high?
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks, Derek!
The front end suspension is now completely finished. Looks like the ride height got bumped up a little. I don't know if these new springs will settle a significant amount, but if it stays this tall, I suppose I'll be driving with the front end higher until I can install the new bumper and winch to weigh it down some up front.
I started to work on the rear shocks, but I'm so spent from yesterday's ordeal that I don't have much in the tank for thinking and doing this deal alone. Plus, I need to buy a set of vice grips to keep the shock from spinning while I'm undoing that nut. I suspect that the nut is frozen in that ridiculously tight space between the bed and the frame, so there's no harm in waiting for the penetrating oil to do what it does.
Any pointers on how to get those rear shocks out before I lose my mind?
The front end suspension is now completely finished. Looks like the ride height got bumped up a little. I don't know if these new springs will settle a significant amount, but if it stays this tall, I suppose I'll be driving with the front end higher until I can install the new bumper and winch to weigh it down some up front.
I started to work on the rear shocks, but I'm so spent from yesterday's ordeal that I don't have much in the tank for thinking and doing this deal alone. Plus, I need to buy a set of vice grips to keep the shock from spinning while I'm undoing that nut. I suspect that the nut is frozen in that ridiculously tight space between the bed and the frame, so there's no harm in waiting for the penetrating oil to do what it does.
Any pointers on how to get those rear shocks out before I lose my mind?
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks @Wainiha. Good to know about the stove. I'd figured it couldn't be terrible if it's the standard one the guys over at Sportsmobile use in their rigs.
I called it quits on the rear shocks tonight. That nut on the upper shock mount is a major a**-kicker and I figured I'll just let some pros do it for me. Whatever the price they're charging is going to be less than the amount of exasperation I'm feeling at the moment.
So now I'm at a standstill with the build. I'm waiting on some steelies to come in, and then I'll bring the rig over to Pacific Tire Outlet for mounting, balancing, alignment, and installation of the rear dampeners.
I did take the truck out for a quick drive to see if there were any steering issues, but none to speak of. No chattering or wobbling at 45 mph, and the truck tracked perfectly straight. Ride is slick and smooth. All bumps were gobbled up by the suspension before it got to me. Rear is still a touch stiff, but I suppose that's to be expected. The rig didn't dive left or right during hard braking, so that's good news, too. The front end has also settled, and the truck is sitting level. All that work has been very much worth the trouble.
I guess the only real "problem" I've got now is that there's nothing left to do until the wheels come in.
I called it quits on the rear shocks tonight. That nut on the upper shock mount is a major a**-kicker and I figured I'll just let some pros do it for me. Whatever the price they're charging is going to be less than the amount of exasperation I'm feeling at the moment.
So now I'm at a standstill with the build. I'm waiting on some steelies to come in, and then I'll bring the rig over to Pacific Tire Outlet for mounting, balancing, alignment, and installation of the rear dampeners.
I did take the truck out for a quick drive to see if there were any steering issues, but none to speak of. No chattering or wobbling at 45 mph, and the truck tracked perfectly straight. Ride is slick and smooth. All bumps were gobbled up by the suspension before it got to me. Rear is still a touch stiff, but I suppose that's to be expected. The rig didn't dive left or right during hard braking, so that's good news, too. The front end has also settled, and the truck is sitting level. All that work has been very much worth the trouble.
I guess the only real "problem" I've got now is that there's nothing left to do until the wheels come in.
stclair
Adventurer
Thanks Jim! Just spoke with Jeff at Deaver Springs, and they are super nice. I'll be putting together a list of what we'll be hauling around, and he'll take care of the rest. Now, if I can just choose between OME 866/Bilstein 5100's and Icon 58620 up front w/56504(2.0 or 2.5) in rear now. Also, wondering if I need the UCA's? Oh, by the way, we are now the proud owners of a FWC Eagle, so that's done, and I do have in my home 4 new to me Gen 1 Tundra 16 hole steelies. So...that backspacing thingy could be trouble. Any recommendations on tires/size? I like the BFG ATs and leaning that way. Oh yeah..NOT trying to hi-jack thread, but so far it has been very useful for me as well. Great info hear! Thanks!
CrewServed
"That" guy
Congrats on the new acquisitions! Hijacked thread is good thread, Comrade Overlander. I'd say install the new springs and shocks or coilovers first, and then take a look at what the UCA's are doing at full down and up travel with the help of a floor jack. Then you can make your educated decision on whether or not you want to drop $500 and 2 hours on the upgrade. I made my upgrade to put to bed any concerns about stressed components caused by driving this rig with spacer lifts for at least 58k miles (dunno how many miles the previous owner drove on the spacers). I wasn't completely confident in the remaining serviceability of the ball joints or most of the rest of the front suspension, so I threw my hands up, said "the hell with it," and made the upgrades. Good news is that if you do decide to change the UCA's, it's a fairly simple install. You'll need a ball joint press that you can borrow from an auto parts store like Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto Parts. Otherwise, taking out the old ball joint and installing the new ball joint adapter in the spindle will have you cursing like a sailor at the empty wheel well of your truck.
About any backspacing issues you might run into (and someone correct me if I'm wrong), it appears that it's perfectly acceptable to jam a 1/2" spacer between the hub and the wheel for some clearance. I've gathered that it's not an uncommon thing to do, but I preferred to mount directly to the hub so I could have the warm-and-fuzzies about being able to make an escape from banjo-playing weirdos in the woods if it ever comes down to that.
Back on topic...
New wheels are coming in today, and a set of Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrains gonna get slapped on them tomorrow before a tailgating party at the A's game. Decided to give the Nittos one more go, since I've got about 70k on these tires without failure on road and some light off-roading, and a wheelin' friend of mine with an FJC will not shut the hell up about how great they are. I figured it'd be my little experiment to see if they'll do the trick for me.
About any backspacing issues you might run into (and someone correct me if I'm wrong), it appears that it's perfectly acceptable to jam a 1/2" spacer between the hub and the wheel for some clearance. I've gathered that it's not an uncommon thing to do, but I preferred to mount directly to the hub so I could have the warm-and-fuzzies about being able to make an escape from banjo-playing weirdos in the woods if it ever comes down to that.
Back on topic...
New wheels are coming in today, and a set of Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrains gonna get slapped on them tomorrow before a tailgating party at the A's game. Decided to give the Nittos one more go, since I've got about 70k on these tires without failure on road and some light off-roading, and a wheelin' friend of mine with an FJC will not shut the hell up about how great they are. I figured it'd be my little experiment to see if they'll do the trick for me.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Wheels and Such
Yesterday I spent seven hours in and around the waiting area of Pacific Tire Outlet. It took some doing to get the new Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrain tires on the steel wheels from Wheeler's Off Road with the 4" backspacing. The tire mounting dude is a filthy-mouthed and awesome guy named Billy. He tried his hardest to make the TPMS valves fit in the new wheels, but it wasn't gonna happen. Also, the OEM lug nuts are a no-go with the aftermarket wheels, so Billy replaced all of the lug nuts and the valves, free of charge. That was pretty solid. Not getting the TPMS light in the dash yet, but if that happens, I'll see about making a pressure canister out of some PVC pipe and storing the TPMS sensors in there to keep the light from annoying me.
I told Billy about the rubbing I was experiencing with the 4.5" backspaced wheels, and after he got everything mounted, he went so far as to check for rubbing at full steering lock for me. I didn't even ask. What a cool freaking guy.
The tire alignment guy, whose name I didn't get, told me that the toe was way off on the front alignment. When I told him that I'd just upgraded the front suspension, he nodded his head knowingly. Not sure if it was a "this jackhole is lucky he put it together right" nod or an "ah, that explains it" nod, but the results are the same: alignment is squared the hell away.
As for the rear shocks, it took Billy, a factory-trained Toyota tech named Mike, and a third technician to get my OEM rear shocks off of the truck. It also took a 3" cutting wheel and an air chisel, plus a bunch of sweat and muscle to finally get those rusted old things off of the truck. I'm really, really glad that I brought it to the pros, because I would have lost my mind and maybe thrown some tools.
Anyway, enough typing. Here are some pictures!
The steelies right after John the UPS dude delivered them.
Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrains in 285/75/16 on Pro Comp 16x8 Black Steelies with 4" backspacing.
I feel like a vanity picture is required here. Did I say "vanity?" I meant "progress."
Oh, and while I was waiting at the tire shop, I spotted an Asian dude rocking a murse. He was completely unashamed, when he shouldn't have been.
Yesterday I spent seven hours in and around the waiting area of Pacific Tire Outlet. It took some doing to get the new Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrain tires on the steel wheels from Wheeler's Off Road with the 4" backspacing. The tire mounting dude is a filthy-mouthed and awesome guy named Billy. He tried his hardest to make the TPMS valves fit in the new wheels, but it wasn't gonna happen. Also, the OEM lug nuts are a no-go with the aftermarket wheels, so Billy replaced all of the lug nuts and the valves, free of charge. That was pretty solid. Not getting the TPMS light in the dash yet, but if that happens, I'll see about making a pressure canister out of some PVC pipe and storing the TPMS sensors in there to keep the light from annoying me.
I told Billy about the rubbing I was experiencing with the 4.5" backspaced wheels, and after he got everything mounted, he went so far as to check for rubbing at full steering lock for me. I didn't even ask. What a cool freaking guy.
The tire alignment guy, whose name I didn't get, told me that the toe was way off on the front alignment. When I told him that I'd just upgraded the front suspension, he nodded his head knowingly. Not sure if it was a "this jackhole is lucky he put it together right" nod or an "ah, that explains it" nod, but the results are the same: alignment is squared the hell away.
As for the rear shocks, it took Billy, a factory-trained Toyota tech named Mike, and a third technician to get my OEM rear shocks off of the truck. It also took a 3" cutting wheel and an air chisel, plus a bunch of sweat and muscle to finally get those rusted old things off of the truck. I'm really, really glad that I brought it to the pros, because I would have lost my mind and maybe thrown some tools.
Anyway, enough typing. Here are some pictures!
The steelies right after John the UPS dude delivered them.
Nitto Terra Grappler All-Terrains in 285/75/16 on Pro Comp 16x8 Black Steelies with 4" backspacing.
I feel like a vanity picture is required here. Did I say "vanity?" I meant "progress."
Oh, and while I was waiting at the tire shop, I spotted an Asian dude rocking a murse. He was completely unashamed, when he shouldn't have been.
CrewServed
"That" guy
285/75/16 D-rated tires. Got five of them for $1084, out the door.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks, Kya. I didn't have to do any cutting after installing the new wheels and tires. I get the feeling that it was totally a stroke of luck that saved me from any more tire rub. Also, I did the math and it looks like my wheel and tire combo is only a whopping .19" larger than yours (Mine = 32.83" Yours = 32.64"). Do you have a stock suspension up front?
So, about an update on the build. Not a whole lot going on at the moment. My welder buddy isn't free to do any work until this Friday, when the HD/SKO rock sliders from Stubbs Welding go on. Also, the bumper from Addicted Offroad should have come off the line last week, or so I was told on the phone by someone at the company. I'm hoping that the bumper comes in some time this week so I can get the new cross member welded on at the same time as the sliders. It'll save me a trip out to my buddy's place, and save him an afternoon working on a truck that ain't his.
What's left to do now are as follows:
-Install sliders.
-Paint and install bumper.
-Install winch.
-Replace battery with a deep cycle option.
-Install RTT.
-Find a mounting solution/location for Hi Lift jack.
-Find a mounting solution/location for fuel and water jerrycans.
-Install comms and nav.
-Go on an epic freaking adventure.
So, about an update on the build. Not a whole lot going on at the moment. My welder buddy isn't free to do any work until this Friday, when the HD/SKO rock sliders from Stubbs Welding go on. Also, the bumper from Addicted Offroad should have come off the line last week, or so I was told on the phone by someone at the company. I'm hoping that the bumper comes in some time this week so I can get the new cross member welded on at the same time as the sliders. It'll save me a trip out to my buddy's place, and save him an afternoon working on a truck that ain't his.
What's left to do now are as follows:
-Install sliders.
-Paint and install bumper.
-Install winch.
-Replace battery with a deep cycle option.
-Install RTT.
-Find a mounting solution/location for Hi Lift jack.
-Find a mounting solution/location for fuel and water jerrycans.
-Install comms and nav.
-Go on an epic freaking adventure.
Kya
Adventurer
That bumper looks nice. There is a dude here in town with one on your same Tundra. Looks better in person then the pics. You will be stoked.
I have Icons and Camburg UCA, I think I will adjust the coilovers when I get closer to new tires. For now I'm just slowly working on the pinch weld. Got most of the rubbing gone now.
I have Icons and Camburg UCA, I think I will adjust the coilovers when I get closer to new tires. For now I'm just slowly working on the pinch weld. Got most of the rubbing gone now.
seanpistol
Explorer
I would recommend welding in the crossmember when you have the bumper.You want to mount it and have it all mocked up at the perfect angle before you tack it in. I have noticed another person or two with an Addicted bumper that just welded in the crossmember without mocking it all up and the bumper looks like it's leaning too far forward.... definitely catches my eye. Those fractions of forward or back make a difference.