The War Wagon: A 2005 Toyota Tundra AC's transformation to Overlanding Rig
- Thread starter CrewServed
- Start date
CrewServed
"That" guy
I've been keeping close tabs on the amount of money I've spent on this build, and the places I've purchased them on this Google Sheet. I chose the vendors that I did because I was able to save money on either tax, shipping, or both. I'm nearing my budget limit for the first mad dash to get the truck ready for some off-pavement trips, so the upgrades and modifications from this point on will be metered, but still tracked closely on that Google Sheet.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Luckily, the upper bumper support came right out of my truck and was otherwise unnecessary. The only thing I'll have to modify is the grill where it bumps the switch. I'm considering just notching it for the time being, and then maybe doing one of those cool-guy Satoshi-style grill modifications that I've seen tons of dudes do to their Toyotas. I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure that'll give me the clearance I need to be able to close the hood completely and operate the lever.
Dude, I was totally eye-raping your build thread a couple of months ago, and you've got some next-level stuff going on in that rig of yours. Seriously, it's a humbling thing to see what you've done.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks! There are a total of six bolts attaching the bumper to the crossmember. I've been waiting for the paint to finish curing on the touch-up I did, plus I've got a ton of stuff to do around the house, then I'll go in and Loc-tite the piss out of the mounting bolts and give them a good torque. After that, I'll shoot them with the same paint that I used on the bumper because I'm a little vain like that.
Ichimonji
New member
I did some research for you on those hood pins you wanted. Links below:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-hood-pin-install.html - These are for a Mustang but I think you can install them on anything. Seriously, anything.
Here are some kits for Toyota. They should work on your Tundra: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...kw=racing+hood+pins+toyota&_sacat=0&_from=R40
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-hood-pin-install.html - These are for a Mustang but I think you can install them on anything. Seriously, anything.
Here are some kits for Toyota. They should work on your Tundra: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...kw=racing+hood+pins+toyota&_sacat=0&_from=R40
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks for the input, Mike! The hood pins are a really, really great idea, except for the part that it's totally not a great idea.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Winch Installation (WINCHSTALLATION!)
Hey guys, I'm back with an update on the build. I've installed my Smittybilt X20 10,000# winch with synthetic line. I chose this winch because it is the only one I found in its price range that had this load rating and an IP68 rating. Everything else I found that met my requirements was more expensive by at least $300. I read enough reviews on Smittybilt winches to know that I made a reasonable choice, and I can reasonably assume that this winch will get me un-stuck when it comes to it.
I purchased the winch from CarID.com for a whopping $649, no tax or shipping. I flippin' love the internet.
After the bumper install, I did a dry fit of the winch and saw that I needed at least one more inch of clearance between the grill and the bumper for the winch to fit, and even more for the control box to fit. I mulled it over for a couple of weeks and arrived at the decision you'll see below in the photographs.
I've got the grill off and the linkage for the hood latch removed. I drilled a hole through the latch and then threaded this 1/16" braided cable through the hole. I swaged the loop and called that part done for the time being.
I marked the location I wanted to drill, which is roughly in line with the hood latch and drilled a 1/4" hole there.
I happened to have 100 of these No. 8 grommets from a Kydex project that caught my fancy, and here you go, a pretty-fied hole in the chrome plastic.
It took some coercion and the proper application of violence, but the chromed plastic trim on the lower louvre is now removed.
At first I tried using a bandsaw to cut a portion of the lower louvre away, but the grill would not fit into the shallow throat of the bandsaw I was using.
So I used a Dremel cutoff wheel for plastic and cut away the portion that was originally covered by the chromed plastic. The idea is that I wouldn't be removing the entire structure of the lower louvre. I don't know what it gains me, but it didn't cost me anything, either. I also epoxied the grommet in place after all the plastic dust had settled.
Here I've got the new hood latch cable fed through the grommeted hole.
I fed a swage and a length of clear plastic tubing onto the cable and closed the loop.
Give it a tug, and this is what it looks like!
Almost ran out of gas in the driveway while I was spooling the cable in. Anyway, gas stations have great lighting at this time of the evening.
My, what a big spring-gated hook you have, Granny!
I'll have to re-spool the cable. This bumper doesn't offer much clearance between this larger winch and the plate steel, and I've got some cable rub going on, here.
Well, that's it for major modifications for now. Things will be slowing down quite a bit, since my initial budget is just about used up. I still want some good lighting, and since I've got no light tabs on the bumper, I'll have to see what my other options are. Possibly an LED light bar on the roof? I dunno. We'll see.
Hey guys, I'm back with an update on the build. I've installed my Smittybilt X20 10,000# winch with synthetic line. I chose this winch because it is the only one I found in its price range that had this load rating and an IP68 rating. Everything else I found that met my requirements was more expensive by at least $300. I read enough reviews on Smittybilt winches to know that I made a reasonable choice, and I can reasonably assume that this winch will get me un-stuck when it comes to it.
I purchased the winch from CarID.com for a whopping $649, no tax or shipping. I flippin' love the internet.
After the bumper install, I did a dry fit of the winch and saw that I needed at least one more inch of clearance between the grill and the bumper for the winch to fit, and even more for the control box to fit. I mulled it over for a couple of weeks and arrived at the decision you'll see below in the photographs.
I've got the grill off and the linkage for the hood latch removed. I drilled a hole through the latch and then threaded this 1/16" braided cable through the hole. I swaged the loop and called that part done for the time being.
I marked the location I wanted to drill, which is roughly in line with the hood latch and drilled a 1/4" hole there.
I happened to have 100 of these No. 8 grommets from a Kydex project that caught my fancy, and here you go, a pretty-fied hole in the chrome plastic.
It took some coercion and the proper application of violence, but the chromed plastic trim on the lower louvre is now removed.
At first I tried using a bandsaw to cut a portion of the lower louvre away, but the grill would not fit into the shallow throat of the bandsaw I was using.
So I used a Dremel cutoff wheel for plastic and cut away the portion that was originally covered by the chromed plastic. The idea is that I wouldn't be removing the entire structure of the lower louvre. I don't know what it gains me, but it didn't cost me anything, either. I also epoxied the grommet in place after all the plastic dust had settled.
Here I've got the new hood latch cable fed through the grommeted hole.
I fed a swage and a length of clear plastic tubing onto the cable and closed the loop.
Give it a tug, and this is what it looks like!
Almost ran out of gas in the driveway while I was spooling the cable in. Anyway, gas stations have great lighting at this time of the evening.
My, what a big spring-gated hook you have, Granny!
I'll have to re-spool the cable. This bumper doesn't offer much clearance between this larger winch and the plate steel, and I've got some cable rub going on, here.
Well, that's it for major modifications for now. Things will be slowing down quite a bit, since my initial budget is just about used up. I still want some good lighting, and since I've got no light tabs on the bumper, I'll have to see what my other options are. Possibly an LED light bar on the roof? I dunno. We'll see.
Maverick1701
Adventurer
don't forget about all the cool points you gain just from having them!!! (they do seriously look awesome)
Plus chiks dig hood pins...
CrewServed
"That" guy
I just checked with my girlfriend. She says chicks don't dig hood pins. To be fair, these results are not typical. She also happens to be a good shooter and will eat any living, non-poisonous creature on Earth.
84scrambler
Observer
looks great i am out in the east bay let me know when you are planing a trip
character zero
dangerfoot
Fantastic job here - keep up the good work and posts!
CrewServed
"That" guy
Thanks guys! This build is gonna take a turn in a slightly different direction soon. I realize that I've made my truck otherwise unusable as a utility vehicle, so I'm looking into ways to move things around relatively quickly and easily. More as I come up with a solution.
CrewServed
"That" guy
What a drag!
Something I've noticed with my truck is that the more capable it is as an off-road overlanding rig, the worse it becomes at being an on-road rig. In particular, my fuel economy in this already-thirsty truck has dropped from 15 mpg average to roughly 14 mpg, mostly highway. It takes a bigger dip when I'm driving mostly surface streets. It's a real pain, guys. I am literally watching the fuel gauge needle move. I noticed the change when I put the bumper on, but everything I've done to the truck certainly had a cumulative effect.
I figure the bumper ain't going anywhere, since one of my tools to effect self-recovery (the winch) is mounted to it. So then I eyeballed the Thule Xsporter and the RTT in the bed of the truck, and figured something's gotta give. A tonneau cover isn't tall enough to fit my Pelican cooler or even upright Jerry cans, and a fiberglass topper is going to put my CG way too high (and make the rig too tall to fit in any parking structures. That's when I decided I'd have to fab my own solution.
In the course of my usual lurking around peoples' build threads, I happened upon this M416 trailer and decided I like that lid. I liked it so much that I learned how to use Google Sketchup and drafted something like it for the Tundra.
Overall height of the new cap is 11", which will put the top of the RTT even with the roof of the cab. This will hopefully reduce drag.
The frame will likely be thin stock 1x1 square tubing. Exterior of the cap is 1/2" thick plywood, and I plan on coating it with something to weather proof it, and then maybe coat it with bedliner or some such material.
I want to put hinges on the passenger side and a gas assist piston to help lift the weight of the thing. I'll probably need a kickstand on the driver's side to hold it up when I'm accessing the front end of the bed. The rear face of the cap will have a top hinge to provide access into the bed of the truck without having to prop the whole darned thing open.
I'm still not sure if five ribs or four is the answer to this build, or even how much the whole thing will weigh, even with thin stock.
This is a very rough design, but I was wondering what you guys thought of it?
Something I've noticed with my truck is that the more capable it is as an off-road overlanding rig, the worse it becomes at being an on-road rig. In particular, my fuel economy in this already-thirsty truck has dropped from 15 mpg average to roughly 14 mpg, mostly highway. It takes a bigger dip when I'm driving mostly surface streets. It's a real pain, guys. I am literally watching the fuel gauge needle move. I noticed the change when I put the bumper on, but everything I've done to the truck certainly had a cumulative effect.
I figure the bumper ain't going anywhere, since one of my tools to effect self-recovery (the winch) is mounted to it. So then I eyeballed the Thule Xsporter and the RTT in the bed of the truck, and figured something's gotta give. A tonneau cover isn't tall enough to fit my Pelican cooler or even upright Jerry cans, and a fiberglass topper is going to put my CG way too high (and make the rig too tall to fit in any parking structures. That's when I decided I'd have to fab my own solution.
In the course of my usual lurking around peoples' build threads, I happened upon this M416 trailer and decided I like that lid. I liked it so much that I learned how to use Google Sketchup and drafted something like it for the Tundra.
Overall height of the new cap is 11", which will put the top of the RTT even with the roof of the cab. This will hopefully reduce drag.
The frame will likely be thin stock 1x1 square tubing. Exterior of the cap is 1/2" thick plywood, and I plan on coating it with something to weather proof it, and then maybe coat it with bedliner or some such material.
I want to put hinges on the passenger side and a gas assist piston to help lift the weight of the thing. I'll probably need a kickstand on the driver's side to hold it up when I'm accessing the front end of the bed. The rear face of the cap will have a top hinge to provide access into the bed of the truck without having to prop the whole darned thing open.
I'm still not sure if five ribs or four is the answer to this build, or even how much the whole thing will weigh, even with thin stock.
This is a very rough design, but I was wondering what you guys thought of it?
toyotech
Expedition Leader
When I got my tundra it had 285 tires and rims. I recently when back to stock rims and 265 and amazed how much of an improvement my mpg has been. I used to average 10-12mpg corrected with gps on 285. I'm still tracking my 265 and I am just less than half a tank and at 210 miles.
I decided I don't need large tires when over landing and mpg is better for all the travels i plan to do. Just get good quality tires
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I decided I don't need large tires when over landing and mpg is better for all the travels i plan to do. Just get good quality tires
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk