Third member is going on my 01 4runner

[Grim Reaper]

My e-locker is in a 1986 4Runner so yes it is totaly independent of the factory wiring.

I dragged the axle from under my truck had had it modified and ready to go back under in a afternoon. That said it is about your skill and tool level. I have a reasonably well stocked garage tool wise including welders and plenty of equipment to cut steel with.

I did a modified version of this control circuit.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

 

[Rexsname]

Tim,

For some reason I am unable to PM in responce to your PM. I am having front and rear Differentials re-geared to 4.88's. I believe the price to be at or about $1600. My plan is to drop it off on wed. and pick it up after they give me a phone call. I'm still a bit nervous about the gear break in procedure tho.

REX

 

[SOAZ]

My e-locker is in a 1986 4Runner so yes it is totaly independent of the factory wiring.

I dragged the axle from under my truck had had it modified and ready to go back under in a afternoon. That said it is about your skill and tool level. I have a reasonably well stocked garage tool wise including welders and plenty of equipment to cut steel with.

I did a modified version of this control circuit.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

I would be a bit lacking in the welding department. (don't have one and I'm a booger welder )
I can get a 4.88 geared elocker rear end for $500. I would just need to regear the front then and modify the rear housing.

 

[SOAZ]

Tim,

For some reason I am unable to PM in responce to your PM. I am having front and rear Differentials re-geared to 4.88's. I believe the price to be at or about $1600. My plan is to drop it off on wed. and pick it up after they give me a phone call. I'm still a bit nervous about the gear break in procedure tho.

REX

I know what you mean. I will be in the same boat. I don't want to hurt the gears by any means!

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

www.car-part.com which is an inventory listing of junk yards nationwide. I bought a complete 4.10 3rd e locked third memeber there once for $275.

 

[ntsqd]

I can understand the trepidation, but go easy on them for the first ~500 miles and then change the oil. I would start with the shop's recommended break-in lube (if they have one) or a mid-range dino lube and then switch to what ever you want to run at the change. If you have to do a long highway trip, stop semi-frequently and let it cool off.

The front is a bit harder. If you have locking hubs you can leave them unlocked and use 4hi for city driving. With no load on the gears it won't be quite the same, but at least they'll be spinning against each other.

 

[crawler#976]

I've broken more diff's than most - glad that part of my wheelin' is done.

As far as break in goes, follow the instructions from your installer to keep from voiding your warrenty.

My personal method is to use cheap 90W dino juice, drive 20 miles of easy stuff at varied speed, stop and let the diff cool completely. Repeat the procedure two or three times. Drive normally (NO TOWING) until you've got 100 miles on the diff. Drain and refill with 90W dino juice. Drive until 500 miles. Drain and add what ever diff juice you like - I prefer a full synthetic 75W-90 from Valvoline. The reason I don't use synthetic on breakin is that it is TOO slick, and won't allow the gears to break in properly.

 

[SOAZ]

Snagletooth.....

oops

mmm chunky

 

[Grim Reaper]

Fun!

I know through 95 4.88 was a factory gear. I haven’t seen any reference to 4.88 after 95 and the highest factory gear on the e-locker looks like 4.56.

I managed to find a 4.88 front diff assembly that fit my 86 for $120. Did the rear myself and Zuk’s website made me realize the first set up was bad. Redid it his way and have about 6,000 miles on it now no problems or funny noises.

So did you find anything wrong, like a loose pinion, that could explain the damage?

 

[SOAZ]

Nothing yet, but that would make sense.

Fun!

I know through 95 4.88 was a factory gear. I haven’t seen any reference to 4.88 after 95 and the highest factory gear on the e-locker looks like 4.56.

I managed to find a 4.88 front diff assembly that fit my 86 for $120. Did the rear myself and Zuk’s website made me realize the first set up was bad. Redid it his way and have about 6,000 miles on it now no problems or funny noises.

So did you find anything wrong, like a loose pinion, that could explain the damage?

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Once everythings done, would you mind giving us rpm & speed numbers with your 4.88s and 255s? What are your plans for speedo correction? Thanks.

 

[SOAZ]

Once everythings done, would you mind giving us rpm & speed numbers with your 4.88s and 255s? What are your plans for speedo correction? Thanks.

Absolutely. I'll use my GPS for speed measurements.

I don't think I've ever owned a vehicle that kept stock size tires so I usually just get an idea of how off it is and just remember and estimate my speed around town. On trips the GPS is always up so then a use it. So, no speedo correction for me.

 

[SOAZ]

The shop called. When torquing down the pinion nut it gave way... Don't ask me how.
NO toyota dealers in town have one.

Anyone have one I could have, buy??

 

[SOAZ]

Front and rear diffs installed.
The rear whines. How much whining and noise is normal for new gears? Any?
The front is silent


4.88's, ARB locker.

 

[CA-RJ]

Nice...I am now officially jealous. Don't forget to break in the gears in nice and easy!