Topper Rack Ideas needed!

Schattenjager

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
Like most things in the remote land of Alaska - it is cheaper to have something made than to buy something and pay to have it shipped. So, I have found an aluminum trailer manufacturer that will make me a custom rack for my Tacoma, but I need some advice:

What is the best configuration / dimension for a rack? I do not want it extending over the drivers seat area for noise abatement reasons. I will want to put a couple Light Force 240’s on the far ends and have enough room for a roof tent - if funds etc ever present themselves. I will carry a couple fuel cans, a Pelican Case or two (1620’s) maybe a spare if I can’t find a rear bumper with a swing arm I like... I think having it just in front of the topper third brake light will make loading easy from an open tailgate, so the entire length will be about 6’ The width will be about 4’ It should probably have a bit of a side rail all around - maybe 6 inches high or so. The rear - just over the tailgate, will be hinged to make sliding heavy stuff in a little easier.

This is just my poor brain cell trying to come up with a plan - I am totally open to advice. I am not crazy about cutting the fiberglass of the Snug topper, but it has a bit of an apron that presents too many challenges that cutting can solve.

If you have any ideas or suggestions, please let me know. It will be made out of aluminum so it is light weight.

Many thanks to this learned group for any input! :coffee:
 
mountainpete

mountainpete

Spamicus Eliminatus
Question: how much weight do you need to carry up there? Both while moving and while stationary? It's one of the biggest factors to the design.

Pete
 
p1michaud

p1michaud

Expedition Leader
Roof basket/rack

There are a few good threads on custom builds righ here on ExPo if you have not seen them yet and they contain some good information:

first attempt roof rack

and

DYI Roof Rack/Basket

As moutainpete has already mentionned you should figure out how much weight you intend to carry. The roof baskets that bolt to the topper are only rated for approx 250 lbs dynamic weight (while the vehicle is moving). If you are going to carry more that that you will have to incorporate either an internal or external support structure. The guys have provided a few examples of internal support structures but if you need maximum room inside the bed shell area and external structure may work. I'm sure you have seen Ursidae69 set up here.

Cheers :beer:,
P
 
Schattenjager

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
Thanks for the input! I do not see ever putting more than 300 pounds up there: a high lift jack - Pelican case or two of light / bulky camping stuff - and a couple fuel cans. If I can find a quality bed gate (see pic below of an example) then I can stash bigger gear in the forward section of the bed. This keeps weight centered and still gives my beloved Max, the Mighty German Shepherd, plenty of room to lounge.

I have a Snugtop Super Sport topper. On closer examination, it seems that the roof has extra material in the center of the inside of the top. I am hoping that this is for load bearing. I might have a hard time finding out as SnugTop has the absolute worst customer service I have encountered outside of Alaska. They act like I am lucky they answered the phone- forget about getting a call back from their "tech" guy.

It would be great if I could just put on a Thule system, have an aluminum rack made to spec and hook that up. The idea of hacking the inside is a little unsettling but do-able. An exo-frame has the same lack of appeal. But, it is function first...

Getting close...
 
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asteffes

asteffes

Explorer
Yes, it is structural reinforcement. Having installed Thule rails on my SnugTop SuperSport, I would not recommend puting more than 200 pounds of load on your shell. The SuperSport does not have a lot of fiberglass in the corners to support much load. While the windows do provide some support, I would not count on them to not be damaged over time if you're carrying a lot of weight. IMO, the SuperSport was not design to haul a lot of weight on top, but was intended simply to cover the bed. Mine flexes and shakes quite a bit even with no load on top, so I would not put another 300+ pounds on top and also drive it off-road. I don't think it would hold up over time.
 
Schattenjager

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
So then... while it might look a little goofy - I could put a Thule syetem over the cab - that would be VERY strong compaired to the shell. I really just need a place to put some lights and stash bulky gear outta Max's way.

Then, I could maybe justifiy a new rear bumper (factory one is th only chrome on the car) with a swing out for spare tire and petrol stowage. Hmm...

Anyone have a pic of a Tacoma with a topper and a rack system on just the cab???

:Astrologist:
 
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Schattenjager

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
gonna wait...

Well, I just got the Thule (first choice) and Yakima catalogs from REI - I can put more weight on the topper than I can the metal roof of the truck... So I will wait until I get to Denver and build a solid, custom something kinda rack.
 
H

Howard70

Adventurer
Rack Rails on Tacoma Cab

Hello:

We've installed Thule load rails & crossbars on the cab of our 2004 DC Tacoma, and we're in the process of installing similar rails on our ARE shell.

Because we wanted great static and mild dynamic load capacity we opted to put the cab rails further outboard than usual - we put them right over the doors where the support offered by the door pillars is great.

This isn't an easy install, but we're happy with the results and it certainly seems much stronger than our subjective load "tests" indicated an installation in the more traditional "inboard" placement would be.

The attached photos show the rails, rack, & load (1 & 2), the placement of the rails over the doors, and the large washers & screw placement within the cab.

If you decide to go this route here are some points:

1. You need to remove the headliner (Factory Service Manual has instructions).

2. The mounting screws supplied with the rails will need to be trimmed short to fit.

3. To get a wrench on the nuts, you need to slightly bend some sheet metal, but it gets covered by the reinstalled headliner. I used a partially opened crescent wrench slide over the sheet metal to bend it down slightly.

4. While Thule claims you only need to use every other mounting hole, we used all mounting holes with large fender washers to distribute the load widely. You'll need more fasteners if you do this. Thule sells them, but they are cheaper at http://www.mcmaster.com. Thule hardware is M5 0.8 pitch, 25mm should be long enough (you'll trim some shorter). Yakima hardware is #10-32. I prefer the slightly larger metric size.

5. When installed the rails have more slope to them than the Thule Tracker feet are designed for. Since the feet are a composite material, it is easy to file an appropriate angle to the foot (12 degrees worked for us) or use a table sander if you have access.

6. Due to the fore & aft curvature of the cab in this area, you'll want to trim the rails to a shorter length. When installed, the plastic end caps for the rails may not sit flat against the cab. If you want to fill that slight space to keep vegetation from getting caught there, you can use a product called "Liquid Electric Tape" (available in some Home Depot stores and online at West Marine)applied via a syringe to fill in the space. If you do this, you might want to tape the surrounding roof to keep from getting the goo where you don't want it!

That's everything I can recall about the installation.

Good luck,

Howard L. Snell
 
asteffes

asteffes

Explorer
Schattenjager said:
Well, I just got the Thule (first choice) and Yakima catalogs from REI - I can put more weight on the topper than I can the metal roof of the truck... So I will wait until I get to Denver and build a solid, custom something kinda rack.
Click to expand...

If you go the topper rack route, definitely do not use the hardware that comes with the tracks. I used 1/4" bolts with 1.25" fender washer and locknuts to anchor the tracks. I'm pretty sure the towers would pull out of the tracks before the tracks pulled the fasteners through the fiberglass topper.
 
D

Deleted member 1276

Guest
Howard70, you have a PM... but my question is; which tent model are you using? That looks like a Magiolina... but I don't know these very well yet. Is it? If so, which one?

Thanks.
 
H

Howard70

Adventurer
Maggiolina Grand Tour

Hello Brett:

I've sent you a longer pm with our thoughts on the tent - you're correct it is a Maggiolina, the model is a Grand Tour in small. We like it a lot!

Best Wishes,

Howard L> Snell
 
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