Towing a Suzuki Samurai

[VicHanson]

I'm wondering about towing a Samurai behind a expo motorhome. Looking for something smaller and lighter than my CRV, as well as something that will get me farther out into the boonies (in the U.S. only).

Is it possible to tow one with all four wheels on the ground, or best to use a tow dolly? What is the proper procedure?

Thanks,

Vic

 

[mhiscox]

I'm wondering about towing a Samurai behind a expo motorhome. Looking for something smaller and lighter than my CRV, as well as something that will get me farther out into the boonies (in the U.S. only).

Is it possible to tow one with all four wheels on the ground, or best to use a tow dolly? What is the proper procedure?

Thanks,

Vic

One of the best possible vehicles to flat tow. Check the manual for directions, which include periodically starting the vehicle to circulate the fluids. But when towed behind my Sprinter or my ex-Grand Cherokee, you can hardly tell it's there and the gas mileage drop isn't too gruesome.

There's a Samurai-specific tow bar available from some of the Sami-oriented vendors. It's great; very small, doesn't weigh anything, comparatively cheap.

The only possible fly in the ointment is that the ride quality of a stock Samurai isn't award winning. The suspension is pretty much the same as a Connestoga wagon and the wheelbase is short enough to let it fall into every dip. Doesn't mean you shouldn't do it--you probably should--but just be aware of this potential drawback.

 

[AK_Brian]

Flat Towing

If I remember correctly you have to stop and run the samurai every few hundred miles. I can't remember how long anymore but I seem to remember it not being very long at all.

What you do is unlock the front hubs and put the Transfer-case in neutral. The front wheels turn freely but the rear wheels still turn the rear driveshaft that turns a bearing and shaft in the Transfer-case.

That bearing is splash lubed by the other gears in the transfer-case that aren't moving because its in neutral. I think the procedure is to keep the T-case in neutral while running the engine in a certain gear for a specified amount of time. This is supposed to splash enough oil up into that bearing for the next few hundred miles.

I always used to just remove the rear driveshaft. Its 8 Nuts/Bolts and not that hard to do. Just leave at least one bolt in finger tight so it doesn't fall on your head, don't ask how I know that it hurts a lot.

They can be stubborn to get off sometimes. Just hit the driveshaft flanges a few times with big hammer and break er loose!

Brian,
(Former Samurai Owner )

P.S. Please refer to a official Suzuki documentation for the flat towing procedure. Its been a while since I've seen it.

 

[VicHanson]

Thanks for the info, Mike and Brian. I really know nothing about them except that they are small and I assume pretty light. There are about 3 of them here in the village where I live in Peru, and it dawned on me the other day they should make a good vehicle to tow. Not too worried about the ride, much of the use will be off road so will be going slow(ish), and running into town for groceries, etc.

I saw one in the Recycler today for $1500, it is an '88, doesn't give mileage, just says in great shape with new tires and carb. Any idea if this is a reasonable price or not? It's in L.A. so hopefully not all rusted out, but no photo either. Do either of you know the weight of one?

Thanks, Vic

 

[REasley]

The manual says when flat towing leave the transmission in second gear and shift the transfer case to neutral. Stop every 200 miles and start the engine. Rev it for about one minute in second gear with the clutch engaged and the transfer case still in neutral.

Curb weight is 2061 lbs. GVW is 2932 lbs. $1500 is a very good price for rust free California zook.

 

[freetime]

I installed a "Twinstick" in my "87 Samurai specifically for towing behind my motorhome. The Twinstick allow you to put the transfercase in true neutral. It also gives you 2 wd low range capability. As stated above they tow great.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Honestly if it was me I would put it on a trailer. Unlike a dolly you can easily back up, and unlike a tow bar you don't have to do any silly crap or pull over and start it.

A trailer would also let you drag it to a shop to get repaired if something major broke and it would give you tons more storage if you welded some racks and bins to it.

 

[Jeff@QuadShop]

I believe its Trail Tuff that makes an in cab drive shaft disconnect for Samurai towing.

 

[kerry]

I tow my 96 Suzuki Sidekick Sport behind my motorhome. I bought it specifically to do that. It's automatic and I tow it with the transfer case in neutral and transmission in park, manual hubs disengaged. Auto hubs can be a problem if you back up as I recall. The ride is probably better than a Samurai and there are lots of them on the market. I paid $2k for mine. It needed a couple of minor items: transfer shift knob, mirror, oil sender switch and water pump. It's been a great tow vehicle. The 1.8L engine has a timing chain. The 1.6L has a timing belt. I wanted the chain.
I have a spare set of towbar brackets for some kind of Suzuki which fit a demountable towbar (Roadmaster--does that sound right) which did not fit my Sidekick but came with the used towbar I bought. PM me if you are interested in them.

 

[mhiscox]

Honestly if it was me I would put it on a trailer. Unlike a dolly you can easily back up, and unlike a tow bar you don't have to do any silly crap or pull over and start it.

These are valid points, and maybe personal experiences with Samurais differ, but my Sami is so light and easy to move around that I think it's perfect to flat tow. Why buy and store a trailer and worry about loading and strapping down the vehicle when it works so well to flat tow? (And why worry about the security of a trailer left behind while you trail run if you don't have to?)

The Samurai doesn't need the double-armed, fold-up bars needed for most vehicles. Just one connection to the pulling vehicle at the hitch ball. My Sami's tow bar:

is very light and attaches with just two hitch pins and can just pivot up to a 90 degree angle when not in use (hold it with bungees). Connecting and disconnecting the truck takes maybe a minute. And you can move a Sami around on flat ground by just pushing it; don't need to start it.

The Samurai is also the easiest vehicle to take along so that one group can ride together but then, for safety, have two vehicles when in the boonies. You could tow it with a Wrangler if you wanted.

All said, my opinion is that the ease with which you can hook it up and flat tow it is one of the principal reasons to have a Samurai.

 

[beer belly boy]

Vic,
I towed my Samurai behind my 97 F-350 with a Four Wheel Pop Up camper in the bed. I never even knew it was there! When I looked in the rear view mirrors of the truck all I could see were the tips of the Samurai mirrors!
The Samurai was perfect for flat towing. It is light enough that one person can move it around by hand to attatch the tow bar to the ball.
Transfer case in Neutral and tranny in second is correct per the owners manual.
Not many stock vehicles will go as many places as a stock Samurai. Sometimes smaller is better!
John

 

[VicHanson]

Thanks everyone for your comments, sounds like a Samurai is the way to go. I don't have my motorhome yet so will get that first before I start looking for a Sami. One more question. Do you need to do anything with the steering? Does it just track on its own or what?

 

[mhiscox]

One more question. Do you need to do anything with the steering? Does it just track on its own or what?

Nope, nothing to do with the steering. Mine tracks like a dream. Indeed, because the towbar and vehicle are so short, mine almost exactly follows in the tracks of the pulling vehicle, making it a no-brainer on curves and turns.

Also, just for information, I never used a brake controller on my Sami and had no problems. But I had big brakes on the pulling truck, no scary hills and the state didn't require one. I'm suspecting that your motorhome will have enough brakes for the purpose, but think about it, especially with steep grades involved. Don't want to be seeing the Smai out the side windows.

 

[CYi5]

You turn the ignition to ON, then back to accessory to unlock the steeringwheel, and as others have said, they track great! I've pulled mine behind my V6 tacoma on a trailer as well as flat towing. Honestly, putting it on a trailer is nice, but it adds that much more weight! I also love how it doesn't pull down on your truck, supports its own weight. On flat ground you really don't notice the sami back there. I would also disconnect the driveshaft if going long distances. I haven't yet, but if I take a long trip I will. Just less strain on the drivetrain.

First day I brought it home.

A little more drag now with the 32" muds, but still tracks great, straight and true!

 

[strange]

yea like he said, put the key in and turn it on then off but leave the key in.
Disconnect front hubs, and if you pull the rear drive shaft you will never have to worry about blowing something up, or having to cycle the engine.
And if your not a fan of getting under the car and doing the drive shafts every time, you can get one of these, just pull a lever and it disconnects the drive shaft, flick it the other way, your good to go

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php...ategory_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

ever drivin a samurai, wow, they will go anywhere stock....then you modify them and there little beasts

hehe heres my little beast