Towing Nightmare!! 7.3 Help Needed??

[cjken]

I lucked out got two sets locally. First set good tread but some signs of old cracking on sidewalls got those for $500 as proof of concept/ make sure the fit. Ran them locally for a few months. Second set $700 no signs of dry rot still had nipples on them maybe never mounted and run on a truck. Got those for x-country trip did not feel right going that far on the first set. At some point I plan to dismount the first set get fresh tires then remount with PVC rings.
I met a guy running BFG's on his H1 he said he liked them much more than the Goodyears. If anyone has experience with those I'd love to hear it before I decide what tires to go with. I know the choices are limited with the 16.5's

Hope to have some time tomorrow to dig into starting issue. If not it will have to wait till the weekend.
If I do have to really dig into it is there anything I should replace as a precautionary measure??
I don't mind spending a bit of money and time toward the goal of reliability and peace of mind. It is a 95 and I am sure time has taken its toll on some items.

 

[tgreening]

I heard the BFGs had a been softer sidewall so better ride maybe? Here is another place I found that has a decent selection of 16.5s, and if the pricing is current, they're not a bad deal. Caveat though. I know absolutely nothing about this place, it just popped up during a search. I wasnt entirely happy with the last set of tires I got from Trail Worthy so I was looking for options.


http://bigfootmilitarytires.com/16.5_inch.htm


I'd say replace any sensor/ sending unit you cant get to without having to remove something else.

I think yours is a PS right? I don't know how much it has in common with the idi, but I was having some funny running problems and then after replacing another sensor a non-start issue. I dont know the technical names but for me it turned out to be a poor connection at the solenoid that shuts off fuel either to, or out of, the injection pump. The one that kills fuel to the engine when you trun the key off. I was already having funny shifting issues then it started where it would sporadically run rough for a moment, or feel like it was missing, etc. Cleaned those connections and she was good to go. Fired right up, been good since.

 

[guidolyons]

Since Ken is interested in tires n such, I dont figure it's a hijack, and I just bought those wheels/tires. $200 gets you just the bare re-centered rim. If you want it powder coated when they're done it's another $50 each. If you want the pvc beadlock, it's another $50 each. If you want tires it's a MINIMUM of $125 for 75% tread Goodyear take-offs. 95% tread are $200+ each. So...that $848 isn't happening by any stretch, unless you're just buying re-centered, weld burned basic rims. Plus shipping btw.

Web page is a bit misleading if you're just glancing through.

OK I agree, you are right, his prices have gone up. That is a bit misleading, I went back and looked again, the $200 does not include the tire price. With tires, recenteered, PVC beadlocks, rock ring and powdercoating more like ~$500/rim/tire. Still a heck of a lot cheaper than a comparable double beadlock rim and a 37" tire. Still a good deal IMHO.


Ken,
Any updates on the troubleshooting? Is there fuel in the fuel bowl?

 

[cjken]

In gonna check the fuel bowl when I get home tonight or tomorrow morning. Haven't gotten a chance to look at it since pulling the codes yesterday.

 

[spencyg]

You are a lucky lucky man.

Your problem really sounds like a fuel issue to me. I know NOTHING about electronic diesels....only pure mechanical. If I had symptoms like yours (which I did, this past summer), my first bet would be air getting into the system somewhere. If your pre-filter isn't fully topped off with fuel than there is air downstream. A small air leak will just lead to power reduction and possibly a little surging. A large air leak = no start. Obviously, with electronic controls on your IP, there could be many other things to blame, but from a pure diesel function standpoint, air just before your IP would be my primary investigative track....

Good luck

SG

 

[flightcancled]

Have you been able to clear the codes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cjken]

Fuel bowl looks ok.
Replaced filter and closed backup

ICP sensor has some oil seepage.
Not sure if that would cause a no start condition, but plan to change that out next.

 

[Gemini]

I've got eight H1 beadlocks -n- runflats with Goodyear 37x12.50R16.5LT's mounted on them. Pulling them off some M116A3's I just picked up from GL.
I like shorter tires than the 37"on the trailers.

PA is closer than FL

 

[IdaSHO]

Fuel bowl looks ok.
Replaced filter and closed backup

ICP sensor has some oil seepage.
Not sure if that would cause a no start condition, but plan to change that out next.

Unplug the ICP and try to start it.

If it is bad it will start unplugged, as the ECU will run default values.

 

[cjken]

Unplug the ICP and try to start it.

If it is bad it will start unplugged, as the ECU will run default values.

Tried unplugging it today.
Still no start. I'll probably change it out even though the problem may lie deeper.

Other things?? IPR. HPOP??
Since I got the icp code if feel it must be related to the high pressure oil system.

The full fuel bowl makes me think it is not fuel/fuel pressure related. The pump is only about 1yr old. I guess there is always a chance of some kind of restriction or air entering the system. I would think with the full bowl it would at least start.

 

[Mwilliamshs]

Full bowl means injectors should have fuel available to inject, but are they injecting? That requires HPOP to pressurize them to ICP sufficient for injection, CPS to time the injection, etc. You're doing good. Tachometer whilst cranking says what?

 

[cjken]

Has no tach, but you just made me think. It does have the ambulance idle control box which reads rpm maybe I can see if it is getting a reasonable reading there to see if the cps is correct. Cps is new but maybe the wires to it are shorted. I can't really trace them once they disappear upward.
I'm not going to give up. I'll get it done eventually in the little bits of time I have to mess with it.
Thanks for all the advice it is really helpful. This gives me an opportunity to learn about the motor. When I changed the fuel pump and resealed the Bowl I was intimidated by the lack of room to work. This time digging around has been much easier.

 

[Mwilliamshs]

Get a ScangaugeII. ~$150 and it'll save you a ton of time and mine paid for itself just in learning to drive more efficiently.

You can watch engine RPM, ICP, engine oil temps, trans temp...pretty invaluable info if it lets you prevent a problem or save an engine or transmission from failure.

 

[Ozrockrat]

Instead of the scan gauge grab an Autoenginuity kit with the enhanced ford package. That way you can run the injector buzz test etc.

Also I'm sorry I just scanned this thread but I will throw another thing for you to look at.

Does your year have the impact switch (under the floor below the drivers seat on my old one) it cuts out the fuel supply. Also I did agree with the initial analysis of the CPS. For anyone doing a search and coming up with your symptoms it is the first place to look at.

Other than that go for the basics first. Prove the fuel supply. Open the drain on the fuel bowl and turn the key on (elect pump version) and fuel should go everywhere. Injector buzz test. Fuel pressure. IPR.

 

[Gtdad]

I don't have a diesel but your symptoms of the way it stopped running are exactly the same as when I had fuel pump fail while driving from Hope to Kelowna via the Coquihalla highway.
thats my guess