Trailer electric system build basics?

[jd-santaclarita]

Hi all - I'm just starting my build up from a bear motorsports trailer and have been mostly researching and figuring out the RTT setup, meanwhile there are a ton of other things I need to figure out to make this trailer 'camp ready' in short order. I wanted to get started on the electrical system, but I have literally no idea where to start and searching around the forum lead me to realize just how lost I am in that area. Is there a simplified how-to for the noob that I can follow. Or is there a complete package (reasonable) that someone sells where I can just get a complete 'balanced' system where I know it all works together and has the right plugs/etc?

Ideally, I'm looking to be able to go off-grid for several days at a time and be able to keep an arb fridge, tent lights, cel/laptop/music charged with some headroom for whatever misc power needs come up. Given im in sunny socal; i'd probably be interested in going solar too. I want to keep it all self-contained in the trailgater trailer and not rely on the tow rig (as it changes). Any advice on how to make this an easy process for a noob would be greatly appreciated. I'm dying to get this thing out of the garage and in the mountains

Thanks,
JD

 

[rnArmy]

If you're running electric brakes on your trailer with a seven-pin connector, then one of the wires is constantly hot (wired directly to your tow vehicle's battery). It would be simple enough to wire that hot wire (and a ground) to a 12V power plug in/on your trailer, so you could plug a Goal Zero or ArkPak (we'll call them "power packs") in for charging while driving (the power pack being in/on the trailer too). Just put a switch in the hot wiring somewhere so when you're stopped for the night - when turned off it then disconnects the charging power from the tow vehicle's battery and the power pack is now running solo (to prevent draining your tow vehicle's battery). Otherwise you'd have to unplug the trailer wiring. Or just unplug the power pack from the charging socket.

A Goal Zero (400 unit) is on my "someday" list.

 

[jd-santaclarita]

I unfortunately havent gotten to the electric brakes yet. Man...my todo list keeps growing. I saw costco has the goal zero 1000 for $1k. Kind of way more than i was thinking but i wonder if its worth it to get the portable power plant all said and done in one package. Hmm.

 

[rnArmy]

This depends on the vehicle. Some are energised 24hr, Some are 'ign switched.

Yes; depends on the vehicle (and if it came from the factory already wired that way).

I've wired a couple of my vehicles using this kit: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html and one of the wires is constantly hot.

Or if you didn't have a seven-prong system for trailer brakes, it would be easy enough to run a wire (either straight from the battery or "ign switched") back to the trailer and to a 12V power plug in or on the trailer to charge some sort of power pack.

 

[Lmg]

First thing you need to do is decide what you want to power, then add up the total amps. This will tell you what size system you need. Good idea also to add capacity to allow for future lights, etc.

 

[jd-santaclarita]

After some researching and reading, I think im going to go the goal zero yeti 1000 from costco at $1k. It has enough juice to run most misc camp things that I would need and should have enough headroom where I dont have to stress on recharging it during the trip (unless im really pushing it). Also I like that i can use it as portable power around the house or in emergencies. At 42lb it seems manageable. Will let you all know how it goes.
Thanks,
JD

 

[jd-santaclarita]

I almost pulled the trigger...had it in my online cart ready to checkout and then I started poking around just a little bit more and ran into the Kodiak units. I couldn't find any direct comparisons to the yeti 1000 that had much depth but the one thing that i did see that made me nervous was a video talking about how insanely long it takes to charge the goal zero's vs the kodiak. Something like 18hrs vs 5hrs on the kodiak and no option to charge via 12v on the goal zero, so limits the car charging (although my FJ has 110v). Kodiak also has 2000 cycles vs 500cycles on the goal zero. I didnt find much info on the portal about the kodiak. Do you guys think they are worth the extra $$? I'd rather invest wisely than buy something very limited, even though its a pretty hefty $ for the kodiak.

Also - Anyone know if either of these are water proof? Like can you leave them outside at camp and not worry about a rainstorm coming through or do they need to be covered up?

 

[jd-santaclarita]

Finally pulled the trigger on the yeti 1000 from costco. I could obsess over this forever; i figure getting it from costco allows me the ease of just taking it back to the store if i dont like it. Time to sort out what solar panels to get now

 

[rnArmy]

According to this site, you can charge the Lithium Yeti Goal Zero 1000 from a 12V source:

http://www.goalzero.com/costco/

It kinda defeats the purpose taking one on an expedition if you can't charge it from a 12V source.

And anything electronic (and expensive) like this, I would not leave exposed to the elements. Take care of your gear, and it will take care of you.