trailer hitch cargo basket pics??
- Thread starter mattyhfd
- Start date
njjeepthing
Explorer
NICE LJ:Wow1:
lil_red_wagon
Observer
my only thing i dont like about them is the stick so far off the back. i have killed my lower rear 1/4's and rear bumper. goin to kill a departure angles. but if your not goin to run into bad departure angles then it shouldnt be a problem.
KLAKEBRONCO
Adventurer
I saw one that looked pretty stout at harbor freight for a good price FYI.
The best way to use them, IMO is to mount a receiver in the middle of your spare tire carrier, and then mount them there so they are nice and high.
This assumes you can fit one there. Not sure for you guys, but the ford wheels have plenty of room in the hub bore.
The best way to use them, IMO is to mount a receiver in the middle of your spare tire carrier, and then mount them there so they are nice and high.
This assumes you can fit one there. Not sure for you guys, but the ford wheels have plenty of room in the hub bore.
Wow I wish mine was as high as the ones pictured above. My bumper and receiver are at stock heights for now. I don't use this off road but it's perfect for road travel. If you drive on wet roads make sure everything is covered up.
This is the HF steel basket that I added side bars to to hold bikes.
Great for hauling stuff you don't want in the cab or that don't fit. These rose bushes were wet and muddy. Hauling the basket out of the attic was a lot easier than cleaning up a muddy interior.
This is the HF steel basket that I added side bars to to hold bikes.
Great for hauling stuff you don't want in the cab or that don't fit. These rose bushes were wet and muddy. Hauling the basket out of the attic was a lot easier than cleaning up a muddy interior.
TweenerLJ, that is a very nice looking LJ.
For hitch haulers, I have found the UWS aluminum model to be a very good and light choice - and it is still rated for 500lbs. Here is a link: http://www.uwsta.com/rec_carrier.html
UWS, a maker of pick-up bed tool boxes and other items - they have the light blue marlin logo - makes a weatherproof aluminum box to fit the hitch hauler too.
A raised bar like the hitch hauler shown by TweenerLJ is great for the rear, and the tailgate issue is gone if you don't have the top or rear soft window on. Depending on what you're carrying, I have found a front bumper mounted hitch receiver to be the better place in some circumstances. My LJ has both front and rear receivers, and my coming JK will have both as well.
You won't loose sight of the front mounted hitch hauler and though it hurts approach angles it affects performance less when mounted at the same height front or back because the approach angles are better than departure angles. Most bumper mounted receivers are pretty high as well.
On the down side, there is a limit to how high you can load it for visibility but also to allow enough airflow to keep the radiator working and cooling the engine. Or if you go high, you need spacing between items to allow the air through.
JPK
For hitch haulers, I have found the UWS aluminum model to be a very good and light choice - and it is still rated for 500lbs. Here is a link: http://www.uwsta.com/rec_carrier.html
UWS, a maker of pick-up bed tool boxes and other items - they have the light blue marlin logo - makes a weatherproof aluminum box to fit the hitch hauler too.
A raised bar like the hitch hauler shown by TweenerLJ is great for the rear, and the tailgate issue is gone if you don't have the top or rear soft window on. Depending on what you're carrying, I have found a front bumper mounted hitch receiver to be the better place in some circumstances. My LJ has both front and rear receivers, and my coming JK will have both as well.
You won't loose sight of the front mounted hitch hauler and though it hurts approach angles it affects performance less when mounted at the same height front or back because the approach angles are better than departure angles. Most bumper mounted receivers are pretty high as well.
On the down side, there is a limit to how high you can load it for visibility but also to allow enough airflow to keep the radiator working and cooling the engine. Or if you go high, you need spacing between items to allow the air through.
JPK
getlost4x4
Expedition Leader
i've been looking at these as well. i think i may just go with a full length roof rack.
do these flop around or is there a way to tighten them down at all?
do these flop around or is there a way to tighten them down at all?
I have a full length roof rack on my LJ that bolts to the Jeep in the front with the windshield mounting bolts and at the rear through the body, mine is from Garvin Industries. There are plusses and minusses to full length racks. Two minusses are wind noise and drag (and it's effect on performance at highway speeds and fuel economy and so range.) If you can avoid a full length rack I would suggest trying to.
Draw-Tite and its associated other brand names offer a J shaped anti rattle pin. The pin requires a second hole in the receiver of the same diameter as the standard hole and on 1" centers. At least some Draw-Tite and associated brand receivers now come with the two holes present. I have a couple of the J pins and when I get around to it I am going to drill my receivers for the second hole and try them out. I've been told that they are very effective.
Here is a link to the J pins and other less handi anti rattle pins: http://www.etrailer.com/c-ar.htm
Also, one fishing rod/cooler rack that I have came with piece of steel about 8" or 9" long x 2" wide x 1/4" or 3/8" thick drilled about 30% down its length and and tapped for a bolt that runs vertically through the male tongue which slides into the receiver. That vertical hole in the male tongue is about 4 or 5 inches from the hitch pin hole, away from the end that slides into the receiver. The steel piece is bent about 20* from flat at about 2-3" from the end nearest the drilled and tapped hole. Fitting the longer end of the steel piece over the receiver lip and tighening the bolt - you need to tighten, shake, re-tighten - eliminates rack movement and rattle. I keep an adjustable wrench set for the bolt in the corner of the bed so I don't need to rumage through on-board tools to find one. I've been using the rack for four years, taking it on and off to go fishing on the beach, and it is not much hasle and works like a charm.
Hope this helps.
JPK
Last edited:
getlost4x4
Expedition Leader
cool. i may look into one of those as well.
i know the thule bicycle hitch racks use a bolt through the receiver pin hole to keep it from rattling. it uses a special cone to center and apply pressure at the bolt.
i know the thule bicycle hitch racks use a bolt through the receiver pin hole to keep it from rattling. it uses a special cone to center and apply pressure at the bolt.
Here is a link to the one I built to haul my snow blower.
http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3596
http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3596