Trailer suspension options?

[vtsoundman]

I wanted to run these, but E-Trailer.com rep said they don't make a 5 bolt brake hub in a 5 on 4-1/2" lug pattern, that will work on the 3500#, only for the 2000# setup.

Call the mfr...etrailer, while good at some things, get a lot wrong. I wouldn't take their word for it.

 

[Gmanpaint]

Call the mfr...etrailer, while good at some things, get a lot wrong. I wouldn't take their word for it.

I called Timbren. They say they currently only have the hub flanges starting in the 5 bolt, and 6 lug hubs for the 3500HD for Off road tires. These HD versions have bigger coil bags, and 2" longer spindles for an 8" gap between the hub and frame rails. I can't use them to utilize the 3 tires and wheels already bought to match the tow rig's wheel/tires.

So they suggested to use the mid weight version that has a standard length spindle, and coil bags. Those 2 items are different in the HD version vs standard version. Plating is the same thickness, and the cross brace tube uses a 2"x2" instead of a 2"x3". The gap will be reduced to 6", and my backspace + tire bulge=5". That only gives me a 1" gap. I asked if these mild versions would be alright using 2" spacers to give me a 3" gap. Timbren tech said it should be fine to do that, if I keep the weight below the 3500 lb rating. I believe my total dry weight of the trailer to be below 2000 lbs after everything is added, but that is only a guess-timate.

The tech said that for an off road trailer, the HD would be best for the bigger bags and spindle length, but at the same time, is also overkill for a small 4x8 trailer.

I am going to pull the trigger, and give it a try. I will use grade 8 hardware, instead of the grade 5, do the 2x2 cross tube, and add some rear frame mount gussets to my 2"x3" frame tubes.

 

[mtbikernate]

progressive bumpstop acting as airspring/shock absorber/bumpstop all-in-one



On my squareback trailer, having had spring or hanger breakage before, I made my own "airbag substitute" to use in-between my axle and frame. Copied from a previous post: The quote above was the focal point of my recent trailer suspension re-build (its not a M101CDN, though my trailer is rather heavy at 1600-1800 lbs-trying new configurations-; maybe comparing apples to oranges?). Since I feared having my springs flatten-out, if over-flexed, breaking the spring (broke one on my car-hauler), and/or causing a hanger to tear off the frame at that point (happened once on my little trailer, spurring my alternative approach), I put a bump stop made to stop those mishaps from happening again. However, I wanted to have a progressive response from the bump stop, before the limit of travel is reached. The axle (on my "being modified for soft-roading" trailer) has only 1.125" of travel from normal ride height to suspension at full droop, so I thought that the use of standard shock absorbers would not be beneficial, and opted for a non-standard approach: a progressive bump stop to serve both functions. It acts like a hollow air spring (like a Timbren Aeon $$$, Sumo, or like found on the old Ford Model A shocks -"balls"-, and similar on several older European models). I modified it to fit, and softened its "rate" (by removing the hard/stiff top). I had experience using poly bump stops on several of my trucks, and thought that the Daystar "progressive" would need little mods to fill my needs. I've tested it, in actual on-road use, and "simulated off-road" terrain (pot-holes, speedbumps, whoop-de-doos), and it does well. I can even soften the rate more, if I choose to. If you, the OP, want to use "soft-er" springs on your M101CDN, but wish to avoid the consequences of over-flexing under over-loading or rough impact, consider this approach (or similar).

• View attachment 250205 Daystar 4.5" progressive stop
• View attachment 250206 modified, welded to angle 2x2x.25
• View attachment 250207 loaded trailer, stop in slight compression

It works well on the road, and on dirt roads, but I haven't been into any real bad topography (no 4wd yet), so I haven't needed to see if I need to soften the compression rate, by cutting through the center filament (will compress more-and-quicker, and increase travel somewhat).

I apologize for digging up this really old thread, but I turned up this option in a google search regarding helper springs for my own squaredrop trailer (Hiker Trailer). My loaded weight is about 1400-1500lbs, and I'd like some bottomout protection. Looks like at some point my axle has bottomed out on the frame. And my suspension arrangement looks very similar to this one.

I have a couple questions about this one, and I see that since workingonit71 was logged in last in april, I might have a chance of getting answers.

What's your long-term assessment of this option?

Why did you choose to weld these to angle steel instead of attaching them directly to the trailer frame using the mounting tabs? How did you attach the modified version to the trailer frame? Do you (or anyone else) see any problems with putting rivnuts into the trailer frame and attaching them that way? I've never used rivnuts so I'm not sure if this would be a good application. My trailer frame is fully boxed and I have no hope of fishing hardware through it anywhere.

 

[mtbikernate]

I found a discussion about these modified daystar bumpstops on another forum, as well as a comparison with sumosprings. I opted to go with the sumosprings, even though they cost much more, because they're a simple bolt-on and I didn't need to think about welding or drilling anything.

I DID need to modify the sumosprings (as the other person who used them in a similar application had to do) a little bit by trimming them a little to fit between the springs and the frame, even though the gap between the springs and the frame with the trailer on the ground is right at the minimum stated for the sumos. I guess my springs don't preload quite as much as sumo expects. I still have my trailer on jackstands because I'm changing tires out next, so I don't have any commentary on how it handles yet.