Transafrica with a Land Cruiser 200 (Diesel)

4x4tripping

Adventurer
I would like to do one through more of a forest area. I love tree lands.

There are many destinations which will lead you through beautiful forest areas - on all continents...

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Day 8 Samedy 17 November, no Man's Land - Nouakchott

At 6:10 we were awakened by a terrible wrong singing Müzein - grrr - because we have to get used to it.

At 9 clock it really took off with the customs clearance for departure from Morocco. It took 3.5 hrs, a nerve-wracking slow procedure. After all, you came into the conversation with other travelers, about faith and religion. :hillbill: Janine was pretty afraid about Gitte`s relaxed chatting about such a content..

We had been briefed perfect about the - no man's land - but we were so distracted, probably by parked and before moving cars - that we caught not the left lane.. But we saw suddenly the ominous black Mercedes you can read about on read several blogs.

Usually the local guys try to mislead you that way that you got stuck - and they help you for pretty much money. I road about 200 USD.

We made it, even though we were almost drowned twice in the deep sand. We don`t had drained the tire pressure, because we had heard that the left lane would be easy to make.

Without the power of the V8, we would probably have to use the first time the sand ladders...

It was the adventure route we drove - and the crank on the windscreen starts to grow and split rapidly.

We did not know if the whole windshield shatters soon - but now the crack dazzled directly where the viewing area extends - depending on the sunlight...

Then we reach the Mauritanian border - and a long long waiting line. A fixer (helpers) promised us that we would get past the long line, when we will use his service...

He kept his word - ran with Gitte a clearance point to the next. One wanted the phone number of her, another guy wants to marry her - she had a funny tour.
And in no time I was waved from the long queue and could drive up.

The fixer had excellent contacts - the border guards could hardly see into the car - and hey presto, we were with a small gratuity in Mauritania.

****** - why there was no fixer for the Morocco checkout ....

(To say it clear - this was the only time a fixer was helpful. Later we mostly was on small borders - there are no helpers. And the 2nd time we use such a service - it was a waste of money and time.

It is like russian roulette - if you have a helper with good connections - the border police don't even check the inside of your car and you can proceed fast for a small amount of money- if you got a stupid guy - it just gets expensive.

I read all Transafrica blogs from the last 5 years i had found in english/german - and many in italian and french language - thats what i read - what matches our experiences - also when we just use that kind of Service two times.)

We went quickly - through an amazing szenery - giant sand dunes which sometimes starts obtain the streets again, yellow dunes, red dunes and spectacular landscapes - still hoping to be at Toyota at business time.

Mauritania appears to be really poor - we saw small huts and no electricity for miles around. The improved just short before we reach the capital.

Gitte fed the Navi with the coordinates of Toyota - we reached the place so around 17:30 - but it was already closed. One of the guards said, morning 8 clock it will open - on a sunday... And then someone walk by he said working at Toyota - and the windscreen would be in stock. We are curious ..

Now we feed the navigation unit again -with a campsite POI - directly at the beach and drove through the middle of the bustling city. Unlike in Morocco the police here is very relaxed, no speed control or other trouble - they just ask occasionally about our target - or right after the "Fiche"

Susi, our Garmin Nuvi GPS fitted with Track4Africa - leads us through the middle of - slums were now the wrong term. I would say a mix of luxury houses that were under construction, dilapidated barracks and an XXL garbage dump.

A route we was of course, incredibly out of place - where we were admired as one of the wonders of the world.

Apparently everything was built under the water table - because often big areas was under water - and we drive in many death ends..
After we sometime had to head back we reached something like the "beach road" - paved but with holes that required special attention.

We drove to a campsite on the sea. The guards at the entrance were little to inspire confidence - and wanted money for parking. We tried to explain to them that we want camping and could then navigate the terrain without money.

The houses looked pretty decayed, and we spontaneously decided - do not want to stay here. Gitte asked for a toilet - which did not exist anymore - and one of the residents pointed to a row of bushes ...

And the show goes on - on the way here, we were passed by a receipt with hotel logo. At the Sabah hotel we asked for camping - and found a nice spot.

Formally, one might say - that as long no one has camped -. The pool was empty and disfigured by a steel skeleton (maybe it was before even a indoor swimming pool), but at least we had the middle of the city a safe parking space - with beach access.

When we were still in setting up the camp, a funny guy popped up and offered us fish - we agreed - and a little bit later he came by with three fishes.

When he realized our puzzled look - he helped us with the preparation of the fish. An good lesson! When he finished we wrapped the fish in aluminum paper after we had it seasoned with salt and pepper.

We cooked rice and Asian sauce and ready was a delicious menu. It was gorgeous!

The evening was crowned with a delicious sundowner - of course with ice - something that we will enjoy from now probably only from our own freezer...

We filter the water when filling the tank - with a three-stage filter system (a coarse filter, activated carbon and a UV Spot) - so we could win drinking water out of a lake or river.
Inside of the water tank provides a silver mesh - that the water is conserved. We don`t want to know what the restaurants and bars do - for get clean water for ice....

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A long line of cars on the border
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Mines can hurt
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Amazing desert
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Searching the beach road..
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4x4tripping

Adventurer
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We had first the plan to enter Mali as south as possible - through Senegal and the Saraya - Kenieba Border.
But the News about the Keyes Area aren`t that bad as we start - but the news from Senegal was bad, most foreigners has to fight a lot of corruption and bribe szenarios - so we decide to enter Mali directly.

We had the plan to drive the route Matam-Keyes till we meet Christopher at Day 7. He told us that the route Kiffa-Keyes is extremly worse to drive - and more scenic. So we decide us for the adventure route - but too with a little bad taste in the mouth - because we will enter the zone deeper who isnt really save:

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We read any news from Mali we can get - before we start, had contact with locals - and we know - that this image shows the current situation (November 2012) pretty well. The red line shows where we should not go - we did it - and you will see with the next days - that this was not the best idea..
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
In Angola they speak portuguese
In South Africa, Namibia, Nigeria and parts of Cameroon they speak english
In Marroco, Mauretania, Mali, Burkina Faso, Benin, parts of Cameroon, Kongo, DR Congo they speak French

We can`t speak french.. We mostly try to speak english with them - when they dont understand we switch to german (what also dont help much) ;-)

We mostly used our hand and feets to talk... Because of we dont speak french - our experience with the locals - keep on a very low level...
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 9

Sunday, November 18 Nouakchott - Bushcamp

After a hearty breakfast we drove first to Toyota. Yes - the Toyota workshop was already open - they work too at sunday..
Unfortunately, there was no good news. A new windshield would not arrive before 60 days by boat and by plane 45 days.
And they told us - that they only would use original Toyota stuff, and not from the "Market".
I persisted immediately, and the guy from the reception said that these were cheap windshield "copy`s" from Taiwan available in the town. But they dont will fit not original stuff.
Not an easy decision..We know that we could possible end with a fully crashed and splattered windshield - when we don't do something. I would prefer a origin spare - but - better a copy than nothing.

Unfortunately it isn't easy to find an "market" when you don't know - what you search exactly. And we can`t talk to the locals, because of our missing french language skill.
So I proposed to address the nearest Toyota driver.. I drove slowly beside a Land Cruiser parked on the roadside, in which a man and a woman sat, and ran down my window.
It took a little bit to the driver ran down the window, we were eyed suspiciously at first. It needs some time to show him - that we want a new windscreen - but not want to go to the toyota workshop.
He pointed us back - in the direction of the toyota workshop.
Then we investigated one of these small workshops on the road and asked for a new windscreen. Several people helps to translate - and at the end we had an offer for replacing the windscreen inside of 3 hours.
After about 4 hours, where I oversaw the dismantling of each screw - we were ready to start again.

For shure - the windscreen copy just fits inside of the Land Cruiser 200.. But there are some cables who aren't used in the african version of this car. There are rain sensors, and some cables for the front heating who hasn't a part to plug in. Anyway - we got too the rainsensors to work ;-)

We decide to restock with fuel - and to drive some kilometers today. We need an half an hour with our "Mr Funnel" pre filter - it looks like the fuel quality is not the best. After that we both need a little break - and we decide spontaneous to go swimming in the sea - before we will start.
It was gorgeous - but an extreme side flow prevented deeper immersion in the water world, even if I was only up to their waists in the water, I had to fight with all my strength not to be aborted.
Then we headed to ride in the last 2-3 hours of sunshine a few KM. Through a really beautiful desert scenery...
At afternoon, short before the sun goes down we saw a track who seems to lead into the desert - and no visible signs of a village - so we decide to search for a wild camp there.

It was a pretty bad idea - it was very deep sand - and also with all difflocks engaged we got stuck soon. We lowered the air pressure - and had to dig the first time of this trip. Soon was able to follow the track further. Maybe 1.5 kilometers after leaving the road - we try to leave the track for setup our camp. We got stuck badly again. After some time we could reach the track again - and follows him some 100m`s again - before we try to break out again.

This time the sand was hard and carry our heavy weight. 50m beside of the track we settle our camp.
Today we cook steak and spaghetti with pesto rosso - yummy! It was hot, it is certainly not easy to sleep, I thought.

We was on the 2nd sundowner at night - inside of this beautiful desert scenery with near fullmoon - as we suddenly saw headlights on the big road.
This happens from time to time - but now - we saw that the lightbeam turns in our direction. Quickly we turn the camplight off - and wonders if we got detected.
The lightbeam gets closer to us - and we starts to hear too the engine. We were not surprised when we heard that this vehicle also gets stuck in the sand. The engine turns off - later too the light. But after 10 minutes - the engine starts again - the light was turned on - and the car comes closer. Again he seems to get stuck - we hear the engine on high revs - and the light who don't move anymore.
We recognize that this car will come closer - and - maybe because of us. We was there for 3 hours without any traffic. That this is a "normal" road where also the locals have to dig- we cant really believe.
If the car will keep on the track - he maybe dont see us - because we are out of the light beam - but - this night was very bright - we can see our own shadow because of the moon.
To make an emergency start - and leave back some of the camping equipment -was also not a good option. Too we know - that we will probably dig in soon again. So we decide to hide us behind the car.
The car passed the deep sand area - and hold maybe 50m before he would see our fresh made track. Then he moves again - and stops as we was there where we left the track. We moves behind the next side of the car and try to hide us. Now they're light don't blind us - we saw a pickup with 3 guys behind - saw silhouettes with turban and guns..

I think we dont have to tell you how we feel. Pure adrenaline ...

Again the car starts to move - 30m (again we keep to hide behind the car) - and then the pickup turns of the track heading directly to us.
Too late to drive away - to late for other options. We turns our flashlights on - point them to ourself - and keep the other hand in the air - and walk into the light beam of the car.
It was military, 5 times handshake for me, with the women they do not. All sides was obvious relief. They ask for a "fiche" (a document containing all the information about us, the destinations and the car).

They told as that it is dangerous to do wild camping currently in this area - and that we should look for locations in the sight distance of military or police.
But it would be ok to stay for the rest of the night.. Good for us, i`m not interested to drive at night - after some sundowners...

Then they drove away, stopped after 200m and called for colleagues. We assume that we was surrounded from some guys - before the car came closer - the guys are clever... I guess we would have been much more relaxed, if we had not been so close to Mali - and know before - that this area isn't really safe.

Then we went to bed - and slept blissfully.

We don't know how they know where we are, how they recognize that we are there. And our language skills don't allows to ask.... The desert is so beautiful! We will revisit Morocco and Mauritania soon - an dedicated desert trip :)

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Our Camp at morning, before we start to replace our windscreen
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6 guys worked on our car
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Do we have mentioned - how beautiful the desert is?
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Our camp - we thought a quiet night will start...
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4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 10 Monday, Bush Camp - Bush Camp (Kiffa)

Today we experienced a true magic landscape. Desert, mountains, green grassy hills like we know them from pictures from Mongolia, green oases with palm trees and agricultural areas - and then again a kind of savannah.
The last two days but also had another side. We call it the graveyard route - we have certainly seen more than 100 dead animals on the roadside: goats, donkeys, camels and dogs.
We guessed that the animals gets killed at night - because we see that the locals also try to drive around the animals on the street.
The landscape was too full of butterflies - unfortunately some died here on our car.
We saw again some Police and Customs Stops - but we all experienced positive. Some we have run over - when the uniformed men were not on the road - we are certainly not waiting on the roadside on it.
In Kiffa we tanked again our last mautetanischen toads. The fuel costs here between 1:14 to 1:16 swiss francs a liter. Since Marietania the car have to handle high sulfur diesel.
In Kiffa we chose the direct route to Kayes, Senegal yes we have missed.. We have heard too many criticisms about corruption and patronizing of tourists. That stuff we will probably have soon enough.
We have missed the regular start of the route - at the airport and drove along on a very bad dirt road - and then held on to the general direction of the road.
We found a horrible corrugated road (we named it road because she was pretty wide) - the one you can drive either 25km/h or 90 km / h. Later came a passage where a road currently being built - and we made good progress. And then came the area where the road ended.
Here again were 3 km rolled sand - with deep sandy passages. We came flying at 100, were slowed by the deep sand at 70-60 - and accelerated again. Without our 278 horse power - we got stuck often i guess.
And then there was just a small track. The track divide into some indistict tracks - and after a while these tracks also disappeared.
To drive real "off road" woahh - that was`nt planned at this early part of our trip. We checked our GPS Sources - and we should be near the track. We drive to the area where a track should be - but nothing. Also today we have no idea - if this is a normal experience, or if we got lost. We just know that we should cross Kankossa... But we never see it.
Good that we have enough fuel - we startet with near 280 liter fuel and carry too enough food and water. Without that - and without the GPS Tracker - it would be an bad area for a breakdown..
We discovered a river which we now have to follow. The GPS Sources dont shows us, if we are on the right side.
Our camp we set right on the river - gorgeous idyllic. It began to get dark - and the first swarms of mosquitoes got to work while we were building our camp. We decide to use our full equipment, the awning and also to use the side parts - to build a tent.
Unfortunately, our camp was discovered. Apparently, a small village is near. We looked like we were being watched, from a distance. We read in other africa travel blogs that you should ask the village chief after the permission to camp in order to avoid problems. But - we were already late, want to cook, and don`t wants to get being eaten by mosquitoes.
So we got inside of the tent, i waved them before i enter the tent.
While we were on to cook (inside of the tent), two men walked close by at the tent. I shouted them a "bon soire", but they ignore us. Probably it was rude to retreat into the tent. But we were not more "bothered" - neither the locals nor the mosquitoes ...
This time we had also built the back wall in the Marquee - and a large tarpaulin on the floor - and we mentioned safe from mosquitoes. That's what we were - only small flies and spiders found their way into "tent".
We feel very relaxed. If the residents have a problem with us, they will show us. We do not feel unwell in Mauritania. The people are friendly, but also very curious. During refueling a big crowd was around us. We are glad that here the people are to shy for that. Then we cant speak french - no way to talk.
The night was hot - because the back wall covered a side window. Luckily we had planned a fan - and he rolled around enough air. Not very silent - but the air feels colder.
The mosquitoes spoil the idyll considerably - only in the tent it is safe. Fortunately, we have planned something. So we could use our folding toilet for the first time - inside of the tent.

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On the way to Kiffa
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The waste is a problem here
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And amazing scenery!
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Our camp
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