Day 9
Sunday, November 18 Nouakchott - Bushcamp
After a hearty breakfast we drove first to Toyota. Yes - the Toyota workshop was already open - they work too at sunday..
Unfortunately, there was no good news. A new windshield would not arrive before 60 days by boat and by plane 45 days.
And they told us - that they only would use original Toyota stuff, and not from the "Market".
I persisted immediately, and the guy from the reception said that these were cheap windshield "copy`s" from Taiwan available in the town. But they dont will fit not original stuff.
Not an easy decision..We know that we could possible end with a fully crashed and splattered windshield - when we don't do something. I would prefer a origin spare - but - better a copy than nothing.
Unfortunately it isn't easy to find an "market" when you don't know - what you search exactly. And we can`t talk to the locals, because of our missing french language skill.
So I proposed to address the nearest Toyota driver.. I drove slowly beside a Land Cruiser parked on the roadside, in which a man and a woman sat, and ran down my window.
It took a little bit to the driver ran down the window, we were eyed suspiciously at first. It needs some time to show him - that we want a new windscreen - but not want to go to the toyota workshop.
He pointed us back - in the direction of the toyota workshop.
Then we investigated one of these small workshops on the road and asked for a new windscreen. Several people helps to translate - and at the end we had an offer for replacing the windscreen inside of 3 hours.
After about 4 hours, where I oversaw the dismantling of each screw - we were ready to start again.
For shure - the windscreen copy just fits inside of the Land Cruiser 200.. But there are some cables who aren't used in the african version of this car. There are rain sensors, and some cables for the front heating who hasn't a part to plug in. Anyway - we got too the rainsensors to work ;-)
We decide to restock with fuel - and to drive some kilometers today. We need an half an hour with our "Mr Funnel" pre filter - it looks like the fuel quality is not the best. After that we both need a little break - and we decide spontaneous to go swimming in the sea - before we will start.
It was gorgeous - but an extreme side flow prevented deeper immersion in the water world, even if I was only up to their waists in the water, I had to fight with all my strength not to be aborted.
Then we headed to ride in the last 2-3 hours of sunshine a few KM. Through a really beautiful desert scenery...
At afternoon, short before the sun goes down we saw a track who seems to lead into the desert - and no visible signs of a village - so we decide to search for a wild camp there.
It was a pretty bad idea - it was very deep sand - and also with all difflocks engaged we got stuck soon. We lowered the air pressure - and had to dig the first time of this trip. Soon was able to follow the track further. Maybe 1.5 kilometers after leaving the road - we try to leave the track for setup our camp. We got stuck badly again. After some time we could reach the track again - and follows him some 100m`s again - before we try to break out again.
This time the sand was hard and carry our heavy weight. 50m beside of the track we settle our camp.
Today we cook steak and spaghetti with pesto rosso - yummy! It was hot, it is certainly not easy to sleep, I thought.
We was on the 2nd sundowner at night - inside of this beautiful desert scenery with near fullmoon - as we suddenly saw headlights on the big road.
This happens from time to time - but now - we saw that the lightbeam turns in our direction. Quickly we turn the camplight off - and wonders if we got detected.
The lightbeam gets closer to us - and we starts to hear too the engine. We were not surprised when we heard that this vehicle also gets stuck in the sand. The engine turns off - later too the light. But after 10 minutes - the engine starts again - the light was turned on - and the car comes closer. Again he seems to get stuck - we hear the engine on high revs - and the light who don't move anymore.
We recognize that this car will come closer - and - maybe because of us. We was there for 3 hours without any traffic. That this is a "normal" road where also the locals have to dig- we cant really believe.
If the car will keep on the track - he maybe dont see us - because we are out of the light beam - but - this night was very bright - we can see our own shadow because of the moon.
To make an emergency start - and leave back some of the camping equipment -was also not a good option. Too we know - that we will probably dig in soon again. So we decide to hide us behind the car.
The car passed the deep sand area - and hold maybe 50m before he would see our fresh made track. Then he moves again - and stops as we was there where we left the track. We moves behind the next side of the car and try to hide us. Now they're light don't blind us - we saw a pickup with 3 guys behind - saw silhouettes with turban and guns..
I think we dont have to tell you how we feel. Pure adrenaline ...
Again the car starts to move - 30m (again we keep to hide behind the car) - and then the pickup turns of the track heading directly to us.
Too late to drive away - to late for other options. We turns our flashlights on - point them to ourself - and keep the other hand in the air - and walk into the light beam of the car.
It was military, 5 times handshake for me, with the women they do not. All sides was obvious relief. They ask for a "fiche" (a document containing all the information about us, the destinations and the car).
They told as that it is dangerous to do wild camping currently in this area - and that we should look for locations in the sight distance of military or police.
But it would be ok to stay for the rest of the night.. Good for us, i`m not interested to drive at night - after some sundowners...
Then they drove away, stopped after 200m and called for colleagues. We assume that we was surrounded from some guys - before the car came closer - the guys are clever... I guess we would have been much more relaxed, if we had not been so close to Mali - and know before - that this area isn't really safe.
Then we went to bed - and slept blissfully.
We don't know how they know where we are, how they recognize that we are there. And our language skills don't allows to ask.... The desert is so beautiful! We will revisit Morocco and Mauritania soon - an dedicated desert trip
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Our Camp at morning, before we start to replace our windscreen
6 guys worked on our car
Do we have mentioned - how beautiful the desert is?
Our camp - we thought a quiet night will start...