Transafrica with a Land Cruiser 200 (Diesel)

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 11 Tuesday 20 November

Bushcamp (Kiffa) – Bushcamp (Mali) 150km

Today, we were awakened by noises. On the other side of the river a big hord of cows arrives - for drinking. And also on our side of the river a herd of goats followed also by cows starts to surround us.

A beautiful place!

We don't see any people, and enjoy a rich breakfast.
We always have 2 jam, honey, ham, salami, cheese and liverwurst on offer, and later even Nutella. For the tome we cant get fresh bread locally we have packaged pumpernickel bread, which is "fresh" for several months.

Then we try to hit the track again, and hold us in the viewing distance to the river. After a while the river ends - or - went to the other side - and we navigate again just in the direction of mali.
After an hour of driving through an sandy subsoil - mixed with bushes and trees we seems to have found "the track":

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Unfortunately everything is here "the track" and after a short while following some traces - we are "lost" again. Sometimes the sand was deeper - but nothing we can't handle. The power of the V8 saved us several times. Still the necessary modicum of power in reserve. We enjoyed it to drive offroad, even though we would prefer that to a subsequent, less sensitive region.
The scenery was still varied and gorgeous. We drove straight through small villages - all smiling faces and friendly wave.
We drove across country and try to follow the singletracks we found. We got lost several times miserably and had to go back longer passages. We switched to the satellite view "Bing hybrid" on our iPad - and try to hold in direction of Mali. Our problem is - we don't have an idea - where there is a border crossing in the middle of nowhere - where we can enter Mali in a legal way.
After a while we found a village with was a bit bigger, and we ask after the correct way. They "think" smaller - and lead us to tracks who was more for bikes than for us - again we had to go back. Again we ask - and he show us the way who has a dead end (for cars). Now we ignore him and try to follow the borderline on the navigation system - and found a track who was really a track.
In the next Village we ask "Mali" and they point us to a house with a small flag. We have found the Mauritian-Border! Compared to our GPS we are miles away. It was easy, we got our stamps and could leave. We ask for the direction, and the border crew told us, that a bike will lead us the way.
After some minutes a guy arrives with his bike, and try to lead us the way. We had to go back several times, because he wants to drive ways where the trees or environment don't had the space for a car. After a funny 5min trip the guy stopped and ask for money. We have used up the the local currency - and decide to try it without his help.
Again it starts to get a little nightmare - because we follow single-tracks who ends in some villages - and had to go back. The locals couldn't help us really, they show us the direction they would walk - not a way who is possible to drive. But they are very friendly - and a bit shy. They live in small straw huts - the villages has mostly only 3-4 of them - they are really small. Here we see a part of africa - who the locals don't have phones, energy, water.. In the bigger villages before - they had solar-modules - and some of the locals walk with earphones around.
Later one of the traces gets better - and in a village we ask again for the direction to mali, and the guy told us, that we had to do our "formalities". Glad that we ask for the way, and not just passed by ;-)
The guy just could talk french, but he was able to show us, that we have to wait. After 15 minutes a guy on a motorbike arrives with civilian clothing. He ask for the papers and we do the paperwork in a small shack.
I want to avoid the use of the carnet in mali, because of safety issues - and so we dont show it. The border crew sold us a temporary import paper. They want CFA - what we dont have. We offer them USD, they ask for Euro :think:
Normally we had to pay 8 Euro - but we just had a 5 Euro note and some coins. The coins they dont want - and they sell us the Paper for 5 Euro. We hope the don't have problems with that afterwards.After a short view inside of the car we could pass.
Unfortunately it was evening in the meantime - mosquito-time- and while they had looked into the car, a lot of Mosquitos was able to enter the car. Unbelievable how many was inside of the car, we killed over 20 of them. Bad timing with our Border crossing, we loosed to much time during the day :(
After the border crossing the "good track" dont lead in the direction we want - and again we follow some better traces. It get dark quickly - and we don't have a place to camp, and we loose the traces several times. The good stuff was - because we drive with light - the mosquito heads to the windshield - and was easy to kill.
Now in the dark, we see many open fires - it appears that we drive in a much more crowded area - we decide to go back, follow our own trace - and to look for a place to camp. Because we don't see much, we park just 20m away from the track. As we get out the mosquitos dont gives us a relaxed time - and we eat inside - and go sleeping. Again we kills a high number of mosquitos - we search them with our flashlight - every night.
We have to setup our camp earlier in the day in the feature! Lesson learned?

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Proud to had found an track
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Loose again any traces
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One of the bigger Villages
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Termites
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Snake CZ

Observer
Whoa man, amazing trip. I'm always fascinated how people who knows nothing about overlanding neither offroading or camping and mechanics can survive the trip :-D but thumbs up!
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Whoa man, amazing trip. I'm always fascinated how people who knows nothing about overlanding neither offroading or camping and mechanics can survive the trip :-D but thumbs up!

I think we have invest much time and effort - to be able to do that trip, with definitively no skill in mechanic stuff and also no bigger camping experience than that one from our childhood.

Yes, we had just one weekend with the fully equipped car for testing. But we had planned very very detailed, discuss how we want to prepare our food and so on - so that we finally don't miss something. Much theory helps definitively also for the later practical stuff.

For the mechanic stuff: The key is, to drive smooth and to know what your car can handle. Most of the breakdowns you can have on such a trip, are based upon bad maintenance of the car or based from driving at too much speed or when your load don't match your suspension setup.

During some Offroad-Trips in Laos and northern Thailand i had collect some driving experiences. Or say it better: i have learned how fast a car need repairs - we had many of them there.

Also when i had some offroad driving experience before, we don't had stuff like a winch, ground anchor, maxtrax, airbag/highlift to play in Laos/Thailand. So we also did some testing before:

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But this was also just one weekend, but was enough to be able to use our equipment during our trip. Learned some lessons :ylsmoke:

Because we don't want to take the easiest route, this was necessary i guess. More training is always better - but i think we was well prepared.

You will see later here, that it was`nt bad to test some stuff.

It isn't necessary to drive hard off road stuff during the way to the cape - you will find many samples of normal 2wd cars who did such a trip.It is up to the traveller - how much offroad he want to have. With our preparation - we want to have some fun for shure :)
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
What made you decide to sleep inside the car, and not for example in a rooftop tent? Safety?

To sleep inside, has some advantages:

- less noise from outside
- comfortable also during bad weather (rain, storm, thunder storm, hail)
- webasto parking heater / air conditioning when necessary
- a real mattress offers comfort
- less weight on the top of the car

Also when a "window protection film" offers some seconds to react, when someone wants to get in (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN1TnQtRUfw) - this don't help when a guy knocks with an AK to your window. And: in warm environment your windows are open anyway - using the windows socks mentioned at the first side of this thread:

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So security don't really count, until you choose the armored version of the land cruiser 200 - and keep your windows closed. But you are more secured from animals in any way: spiders, bugs, ants - they may easier come in an rooftop-tent - than inside of the car.
 
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4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 12 Bushcamp (Border) – Bushcamp ca 150km

We started without breakfast - still too many mosquitoes. After the sunrise, you have to wait a while, before the mosquitoes disappeared. It was around half past 9, as we make a break, a quick wash and a small breakfast. We saw again beautiful villages and a szenic environment. Again we got lost a few times, but after we had agreed that we always follow the larger track and neglecting our desired direction, we arrived late in the morning on a tar road and a short time later Kayes - a big city in the west of Mali.
In Mali, you have to watch these Speedbumps in the villages they can break your car and are sometimes difficult to detect. They often start a lot before the village.
In Kayes we investigated for an ATM, then we bugged the tanking-guys with our pre-filter tank. 120Liter Diesel fit into the tank, costing about 1.20 per liter. During refueling, a man came to us and tried to explain something in French. When he saw that it did not, he tried it with bad English. In Djema yesterday were two Frenchmen had been kidnapped and that I should urgently callthe embassy, ​​for the clarification of the security situation.

Later we found this information later too at the Internet: NewsPaper: Kidnappig in Djema Link

I thanked him warmly. Now nodded also the guys from the gas station - kiddnapping, french, near Keyes.. Unfortunately, the incident was on our route. We had see a chance to get some lost hours back, when we use the direct way between Keyes and Bamako.. Now this seems too dangerous - and we went back to our "original planned" Route - staying south as possible.
Therefore the small mali border crossing don`t could give us all necessary stamps - we had to look for the police and customs here in Keyes. According to our travel guide (book) the Customs was at the train station. Once again my my non-existent French skill was not helpful. But one guy took a bike and lead us through the city. We was at the custom where the people said that everything is ok, then the man lead us to the "special police". They had to stamp our temporary importpapers - and we had to fill a "fiche". Finieshed - all people are very friendly - no corruption - nice!

Then the man accompanied us back out and asked whether we eat or just want to depart directly. Gitte and I looked at each. We had to discuss the news, maybe had to connect with the embassy - to look for the route details. So we answered, that we want to eat first. Again he drive ahead and bring us to a restaurant with wifi, next to the bridge where the track Kayes - Djema - Bamako went off. Our French was not good enough to clarify the security situation, but far we understand the police and custom guys - we should use that route - but don`t stop whatever happen.

During the meal, we contacted the Swiss embassy in Bamako - they said we should simply stand where we are. We cant wait - but i dont try to discuss it with the embassy. We opted for the originally planned route - preferably south of Mali. We also found some Informations about the kidnapping at the Internet. Shure we know that the red line marks the higher risk area - but no one had thought that they will kidnapp that many kilometers outside of the "nord-Mali" area.

We drove in direction of Bafoulabe to a river, which we know we had to use a ferry (reported by Tracks4afrika). We thought that it will be better to cross the river before we look for a wildcamp spot for security reasons. We reached the River and had to wait about 45 minutes until the ferry showed up.

We got much attention - not perfect when everyone knows - that we had to rest soon.

The ferry give us a ticket for 4000 CFA (about 7 CHF). Our smallest bank note was 5000, it was not easy to get the exchange money - but finally I succeeded. It was determined the "tarif touristique" I guess...

At we reach the other side it was dark - and a bigger village, no chance to find a wildcamp spot here - and we followed a road till the Navi said, turn left.

We stood in front of a railway bridge with a red "one way" street sign. We see a light on it - something comes in our direction. So i stopped to watch if a crossing will be possible soon. Fortunately i read many travelblogs - and know that others had also used such bridges - but i don`t had an idea how legal it is.

The "street" was about 20m wide and just a wide dirttrack. Both sides of the street was lined with small huts and shacks. We see some oil drums used as fireplace.

A gui with a flashlight in the hand walked in our direction. It was dark, no idea if he is armed, if he is an official or whatever. It may sounds a bit crazy, that we feel pretty safe in this szenery - who could also be a part of the shooter crysis at night - pretty scary.

I opened the window and the man try to comunicate in french. Good try. But he point to the other direction - and fortunately he could also some english words. He asked if we want to drive over. We answered: of course, if that is possible.. He said yes, and pointed how we should do it - one tire side between the rails. It looks like i can took also the rails between our tyres, the Land Cruiser is more wide, than most of the local cars.

But no matter - we just drove across on the bridge and

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continue into the night. I had to finish the entry about this day (and more pictures) another time



--- to be continued ----
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 12 Part II

Unfortunately it was dark - and again we had no wildcamp spot. We followed a wide dirt track which was very very dusty. Each vehicle load a lot of dirt on the people who walked or live along the street. We try to make pictures - but - to dusty and with the flashlight you just see nothing on them. We drive Kilometers on Kilometers - try to use tracks who branched off from the road - but anytime there was a field and some hats… So we stopped 2m next to the dirttrack - and try to avoid noise and light. There are still people driving bicycle on the track - better not to get some attention. We eat each a fish tin - and go sleeping.

We are sill near of the potentially risky zone - to far north - but our car was not so visible like you may guess with our 2m distance from the track - so we feel pretty safe.

Mali is a beautiful country - we got some good pictures during the day :)

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JRhetts

Adventurer
4x4 Tripping: I have REALLY enjoyed reading your posts. I lived in Liberia for 5 years during the early 1960's; I had a Jeep and wanted to drive West to East across Africa. At that time there literally were no established roads or tracks, so I gave up.

Congratulations, and i am having a great time by reading your adventure.

John
 

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