Transafrica with a Land Cruiser 200 (Diesel)

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Sorry for the break - we was on short holidays :) Google Translate / Chrome works "ok" - but i hope my translation will do a better job!
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Day 13 - Mali - the Sleeping Camel

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By kidnapping the day before we were perhaps not quite as relaxed as ever otherwise - and quickly decided to head towards Bamako.

The track was pretty bad - 200m asphalt again potholes - then washboard track, which we were able to partially take highway speeds (150 km/h), then 200m asphalt - very alternately.

Generally the AHC suspension could handle weak to medium washboard tracks pretty well, even if we're traveling slower. In heavy washboard tracks helps us only one thing: speed.

But the landscape compensates one for all! Mali's beautiful. In our brief stops we always discover beautiful colorful birds - for ornithologists there are a lot of food.

At one Peage / Roadblock many of my answers were not satisfactory - and the police officer must have thought - he is able to steal some of our money... We had to park the car and go with our papers in a small house - where we were tested for the first time in detail. After a long 15 minutes in a very hot room, the officials came to the insight that there is nothing they could use against us, and we could continue.
They dont ask for money! It was just expected that you give something, we suppose - but we knew that we all need it, had insurance, Passavant (of police stamped & Gendarmerie) - Visa - and would not a second occurred to me - is money in the take hand.

Then we came to the suburban area of ​​Bamako - one of the larger city on our trip - at least in Africa.

They drive quite civilized and relaxed here - no big honking - but they love to push here - what I was also placed in the cradle ...

We fed Susi (our GPS) with the aim of "the sleeping camel" - one of "the" well know location for Overlanders on our route.
Right in town, but on the quieter side of the river lies the diplomatic quarter - and right next to the German embassy, ​​the "Sleeping Camel" located, protected by high walls. The guards waved us - and opened the gates - and we were on a spacious patio.
The Sleeping Camel is a restaurant and hotel - you can camp inside for a small feee. Earlier here, the Overlander were stacked - today we were the only ones.

We negotiated briefly the most important - our pitch - put up our camp and washed first again the laundry because the laundry service today would not have been possible. Then we sat in the restaurant - in a comfortable sofa - for the first beer in Africa - Castell beer.

Quickly found a cozy round - as it turned out, almost all present Journalist, along with some employees of NGOs and UNESCO. Overlander they have seen for some time no more - and the present appreciated the situation in Bamako also very unstalbil. Regular demonstrations there - and the situation between the military and government is also very "fickle".

We also learned that the Overlander were kidnapped at 25.11.2011 from a restaurant in Timbuktu, had previously camped in the Sleeping Camel a few days. In the attack, a German was shot when he tried to get his drugs from his room. (Here you can get more information) His wife was able to hide - and could return to the Sleeping Camel later. Truly a tragic incident!

Why these people were so far in the north of Mali, although the area was already pretty dangerous? We can only guess - that this country made an impression to be secure and peaceful - and these travelers thought - why should there be different from here?

Unfortunately warn our EDA, the Foreign Ministry and other institutions rather quickly - and is it hard to overland travelers - know what is dangerous and what is not now. For almost every country on our Trans-Africa is indeed finally a travel warning - and if you can read it here on the blog - we have survived.

Anyway - we're not here to throw stones, we sit it himself in a glass house uhhh Sleeping Camel - and are from the perspective of the overall traveling faction - itself also received far too much of a risk ... And yes - we originally wanted to avoid Keyes and are gone through ...

Unfortunately, the "fast" internet is not as fast, so that we can upload images on a larger scale.

We hope tomorrow to be able to increase our supplies before heading towards Burkina Faso.

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28.

Adventurer
Great thread and stay safe. I for one don't think this journey would be worth the risk to oneself and or a loved one that was along for the ride, but it's folks like you 2 that inspire others to do such things. Props and God be with you.

sent from your moms Iphone using tapatalk
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Great thread and stay safe. I for one don't think this journey would be worth the risk to oneself and or a loved one that was along for the ride, but it's folks like you 2 that inspire others to do such things. Props and God be with you.
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To be honest, i also was`nt very happy as my Girlfriend wants to join the trip. At first i had planned to do the trip together with a friend. For the friend the trip was to extreme (to many kilometer, to dangerous). So i had planned to do the transafrica alone for quite a while. The car was bought, equipped with stuff like frontbar, winch, difflocks and i was on to start to detail-planning of the sleeping area, as my my Girlfriend told me the first time, that she thinking about to come with me. At first i wasn't happy, because i thought that i can't give her enough protection during our trip.
So i start to do much more research, scan all the blogs of other travelers i found from the last 5 years. I start to connect me with local people in Mali, Nigeria and Congo asking for safety of different routes - study news about the region deeply - did much more research than i would have done when starting alone. At the end i have the route which i thought it is save enough. And i was over prepared, know all stuff happens to other travelers, how they handle their trip. The risk isn't that height than you may guess - but it is there.
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Day 14, Friday, November 23, Sleeping Camel (Mali) to bush camp (Burkina Faso) about 500km
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Usually we are at 07:00 clock already wonderfully well rested, because we're leaving early to bed. Today was different, it was late at night a cozy round that has been sitting together. Most of those present were journalists, employees of NGO's or Unesco.
We were very busy with photos and the blog, but we still have something integrated. But no Overlander there. And those present were also the situation in Bamako itself politically unstable - and looked around for options to be able to leave.
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We were not unhappy that our travel plan did not provide for longer stay.
The Sleeping Camel let us camp and cook for themselves (we had thawed meat that had to be used) - and the crew was very nice.
Until we had tanked water and were prepared to travel, it was been 10 clock.
We again enjoyed a gas station with the addition of filters - and drove to the border. In Sikasso, we investigated the gendarmerie to stamp our exit, but that was not necessary. We drove to the border and quickly left the country for an entry in the thick book.
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On the side of Burkina Faso, the customs officials were friendly, once chased off their own employees, so we had a seat and helped us with the paperwork.
There was a long line of local peoples who wait for crossing the border. We was glad that they gave us a vip handling - but it does not feel right.
Then we went to the gendarmerie, the first time doubted the company car. Because i dont want to use the carnet, i have to use the normal car papers, where my name isnt listet, because it is a company car.
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They barely cant speak english, we cant speak french - but the policeman tell us, that we have to wait one hour (in africa this can be everything) for the chief. I thought that he dont know if i can legally drive this car, because my name wasn't listened.
I show him the (multilingual) authorization which was unfortunately signed by myself (my own company). The officer shook his head.
Then i show him the Apostille (it is a international super legalisation) where is noted that i own the company and that i can use that car.
Lesson learned: when you not use your own car it is easier to use the "Carnet de Passage". With the carnet (which anyways is issued to the driver) never want to see additional papers about the car.
That Apostille paper saved us, and we could proceed.
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We was happy that we had passed the border, as we see a police checkpoint after 500m from the border, with a stop sign. No policeman was on the road - so we did what we usually did - just passing through.
This time our behavior wasn't a good idea. All people on the road showed us that we has to turn back. As we drove back a angry crying Policeman was waiting on the street.
He was really angry, and shouted to me till i was in the hut what was a small police station.
Again our stuff has to be written in a the thick book, now the third time already - somehow completely pointlessly.
Then they want to give us a fine, because we ignored a stop sign. Not a bribe, they took out they book for writing a ticket. They told me that it will cost 11 USD. That was ok for me, my fault - and i will get a receipt.
But my girlfriend started to discuss that we have not seen the stop sign, and grudged him a pair of eyes spreads her blue eyes.
We could proceed without to pay. Another lesson learned: A pretty blonde co-driver with blue eyes - is helpful here.

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Then we drove a few kilometers in Burkina Faso, as we much too late when we turned once again to a wild bush camp.
Here on the border of the villages are close together and it was not as easy as before to find a nice spot.
But we find a spot, quite near the road but not visible - and no locals around.
There we made mashed potatoes with a thick juicy steak - life is sooo beautiful!

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4x4tripping

Adventurer
I guess it is never too late to start. Many of the long-term Overlanders are retired.

But i know what you mean. Why we had not the money to start in young years :rolleyes: With 18-20 years old, without a own flat and a huge amount of stuff... And no commitments.

Would we ever come back?
We would have been settled somewhere?

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Day 15 Saturday, November 24, Bush Camp - Bush Camp about 550km

Today we have Burkina Faso crosses for the most part. The scenic surroundings was now similar to Mali and not so varied.
The beautiful colorful birds that we have estimated in Mali as we see here not so - but here we were now indeed more onroad. We want to spend two days in a nationalpark here and also toying with the idea to spend a few days with beach holiday in Benin. Therefore we push a bit...
But at first we have to restock our freezer and with meat and so on - therefore we visit the center of Ouagadougou.
We fed Susi (Garin navigation with Tracks4Africa) with the search therm "Market", and let us plumb directly into the city center.
That area was - like in any maincapital - heavily crowded. We see some Parking-Slots, there was also an Guard walking around. We showed him that he should look for our car with special attention.
Some stuff still work without talking :)
After a save parking place was organized, we strolled surrounded by a bunch of people on the market. Two guys accompanied us, which we could not got rid off, at least with my knowledge of French.
Unfortunately, the women on the market far too intrusive to stroll there in peace, and the prices were pretty steep.
I know how such a market feels like, but for my Girlfriend it was to much action. Maybe I should have start with a smaller market for her.
Once you sign up for something interested, this was called loud - and the ladies of the neighboring stands also surround us, and we could negotiate the price. For the buyer, not so bad - you know, the competition lowers prices. I know
Nevertheless, we auctioned after much negotiating two large cauliflower heads.
But it was an impressive amount of different types of vegetables. The exotic stuff was more expensive than in switzerland.

Then we went to the Marina, equivalent to a European department store. There was everything that it is with us. A small glass of Nutella for converted for 10 Swiss-Francs. It really gave everything, but also to violent prices.
We bought wine, Amarula, a bottle of whiskey and a lot of meat for the freezer.
When we left fully packed the store, we were just glad that we had help - the two guys had wait there.
What for a bad feeling to walk the main street relaxed, while two black boys carry all the stuff. Stuff from a shop where the locals dont can buy, because way to expensive.

Anyway, it was way to hot to and to much stuff to carry it by ourself. They were glad for the tip, and we were first out of the city before we stowed the purchases at their destination in the car, and treated ourselves to a break.

Then we drove further out of the suburban area out back and looked for a bush camp.
We found the departure of a single track on an agricultural area - unfortunately, in a good listening position to the road.
We drove from farm field to farm field - the individual regions were separated by bushes - but did not find the optimal coverage was concerned what road noise and visual protection.
During the meal we noticed noise, anything stalked slowly. It was become dark, as we heard a ast crack close by - something "big" was near.

We cleared everything first back into place - there are too many reports where travelers had lost their equipment to some predatory monkeys..

But also after that we dont feel comfortable at these place - and we decide to leave also when it was completely dark now. Hoped for a quieter place to sleep, because the trucks do a significant source of noise when crossing the potholed road

So we found a short time later at night once a good place for a bush camp. We use our thermal night vision camera for driving the last meters, to avoid to show our sleeping spot to others. To be honest - this helps only for to make the spot smaller - where the people know that there is a car. In the night you have no chance to see, how far away the next huts are....

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Usually we don't often make pictures from peoples, but we asked this guy if we can do one.. The animals are still alive!

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4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 16 November 25, Bush Camp - Bush Camp near Benin (200 km)

This morning we were already up at 6 clock and drove off without breakfast.

In Fada N `gourma we bought some bread, refueled again and got another 100` 000 CFA from an ATM.

Today we will drive into the Arli Nationalpark, to spend there some days.

We were looking forward to seeing huge animals. Even from the road we saw 2 monkeys bounce pass and drove to a half overgrown Dirttrack in the National Park. This was not an official entry point - that's why we expected something to see.

After an hour with no more to see as some stick insects, a spider XXL and different birds we discontinued the practice and drove back the bigger road to the National Park.

A major road should pass through the middle - and the national park, it should also be possible according to guide, to enter to Benin.

We drove on a pathetic Dirttrack through the National Park - i love offroad driving - but that was just a high material stress without great technical demands - and always looked for the animals.

We read that here are Lions, buffaloes, antelopes, hyenas, monkeys and elephants. But we saw none of that, though, we really took our time, to not miss anything.

Inside of the NP we saw small villages, with the usual animals walking around: chicken, small pigs, goats - and from time to time we cross an cyclist on the way to the next village.

Should we believe that here life also lions and elephants?

We followed an even worse Dirttrack again in the direction of the benin border - which was more difficult to pursue - and we reach several times a dead end of the path.

While following again an Singletrack (more made and used by bikes than for cars) we got a flat tyre - in the middle of nowhere. The last village we crossed long time ago, and we was far off the beaten path to find help.

In 20m distance we see a place which a bit more space around and we had a look to the damage. The tyre coat has a 10cm crack, nothing where our Tyre-repairkit would help.

To be honest: our fault. To drive single tracks by car is dangerous for the tyre. In the gras and bush you dont see - where is a root or stone formation, who is able to damage the tyre.

Not a good idea to plow through overgrown paths, with many branches and roots ...

Where were the jack and the tool again? We had everything necessary found by reading the manual - and went to work. Unfortunately, it was a soft sandy ground and the jack to lift the car just sink.. A board we did not have it and we thought already to take the MaxTrax as a base.
But we had also the lifting cushion, which was approved by 3.2to - for a front page this should be enough.
Unfortunately, the compressor was filling defect - and it cost valuable time until we were ever able to fill the lifting pad.
The Viair air compressor was unfortunately only expensive - but good for not much - but that's what happens if you do not pre-test the equipment properly.
After a while, and two-time deflation and the lifting cushion shift we were then so far - very slow and the tire came into the air.
We continued even after using the jack to support and won again a few inches in height - not even enough to be able to mount the new tires. A Hi-lift would now have been quite good, with a large board.
We stayed only digging a hole - to compensate for the low lift height. After 2 hours work the spare tire was mounted, and the defective wheel mounted on the rear of the car. I forget to say: it was damn hot, i did the work in my underpants.
For the first time we used the onboard shower afterwards that extensive - lovely!

It gets dark as we setup our camp on the place of repair.. A good steak, some rice and a hot chili sauce helps us to forget the hard work - yummiii!

Now, we sit outside, have opened a bottle of whine and enjoy the success that we are able to drive again early tomorrow!
Meanwhile, we have pleasant 25 degrees.

However, we dont think that we will see here any animals.

Finally, we camping here in "the hot zone" - and still see nothing. And inside of the Nationalpark are quite a few small villages - we really wonders how the lions here can co-exist with the villages and the pigs...

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Driving single tracks:
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A village in the background
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Searching the track to Benin
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A flat tyre
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4x4tripping

Adventurer
We'll be in Mali next week... we'll be sure to wave if we see a white 200. :)

We did the trip from Nov. 2012 till Januar 2013, so i wrote here in the past. It would be so nice to hit the road again!

Did you have a blog or website to follow your travels?


Day 17 Monday, November 26, Burkina Faso - Benin (Bush Camp - Bush Camp) approx 400km

This morning we were already happily expected by some big wasps that buzzed around the car. Therefore, we had only a quickly made tea, and then we fled...

Very carefully we now drove out of the national park - because we have now no more spare tire.

Originally we wanted to enter the country through the National Park to Benin - but without spare tyre it is to dangerous. Because of the National park opens in December there are no other cars around who could help us.

A new day, a new luck to see animals inside of the NP? No - animals here :drool:

We hope that we find someone who is able to repair the tyre. If not we have to flight in a new spare tyre, what is not a cheap way.

As we was back on the street we drove straight in direction of Benin. Every time we saw an tyre repair service the discussion starts if we should try to repair here, or later in Cotonou (the capital of Benin).

After 40km we reached the border of Benin. It was the first time they ask directly after the carnet, after the officials recognize that we don't speak french. Previously, nobody wanted to know anything about it.
Because Benin is one of the safest country on our trip, we had no problem to use the carnet here.

It is very confusing that you have to do three steps for each country in westafrica: You have to go to police, customs, immigration - and each time they wrote our Passport ID and Car Plate & Vin-Number together with our next travel-destination to a thick book

Benin is again very different landscape, the fauna here begins slowly into the jungle to go over, everything is overgrown. And since there are only paths where people are, it is difficult to wild camping . without to ask in a village.

The people were very nice and we also ransacked again a local market for edible things. The people were very nice and we also ransacked again a local market for edible things.

In the evening, after a refueling stop, we peered long after a bush camp - or even a dirt road branching off - but it was really difficult.
We thought about it, ask at one of the churches or the police when we discovered a gravel pit where we could settle down.

We cooked a delicious meal: a delicious steak and pasta all'arrabbiata.

Would cap off the evening with a nice campfire

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Each liter fuel we filtered during our trip
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It was pretty time consuming, we give a good tip each time

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The most part of the "road" of this day looked like this:
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You can visit our blog when you cant wait for an update: http://transafrica2012.blogspot.com
 

4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 18, Benin

It was a sultry night - from now on we probably need our fans - because it's simply too hot otherwise.
The humidity here is pretty high, inland there is morning fog - and until noon the sun just manages to come through. It's beautiful - to go through this mist-shrouded hills - and experience as the sun comes through gradually.
The environment changed rapidly. Wayside is starting to show again restarants, bars and nightclubs - that look inviting. But with our travel behavior - we can not eat out or dance, and then keep an eye out in the parking lot after dark.

Unfortunately most parts of our roads today are extremely ugly potholed, like never before of that trip. To much concentration, to less enjoyment of the environment.

At the evening we reach Cotonou (the capital) and the sea again. Therefore everything need a cleanup - we - the clothes and the car - we decide to take a good 4 Star Hotel at the Beach (Marinara Hotel).

No matter what you touch - one is dusty now ... Expects a thick layer of dirt even behind the fuel filler flap ... Gradually, the dust also migrates into the interior. And the spare tire has be repaired - or replaced if necessary.

After a hot shower we want to go to the beach. The journalists in Bamako has raved about the beach in Benin - we feel almost obliged to take this picture right here.

According to Staff, the swimming is prohibited in the sea. We dont believe that - and went to the beach. The truth is, that the whole beach is full of waste - unfortunately too the water - so we go to swim in the pool.

The beach itself would be - really beautiful...

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4x4tripping

Adventurer
Day 19, Benin



We have further extended for a night at the Marina Hotel - Cotonou and can still explore something - a city which we like very much.
Thing in the morning we were looking for a tire repair services, which are easy recognizable by the tire wall. The first guy we show the tyre told us - this is so not repairable.
Undeterred, we drove to the next provider, and tried again to communicate with hand and foot.
He could two english words, tube and the word repair with a thumb up
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He showed us that he will patch the tyre and insert a tube. The alternative was to use DHL or TNT Express to flight in a new tyre - we was glad that we had found a quicker solution.

The repair should take 15 minutes - but, of course, was after 45 min was nothing finished.
In the meantime we were at Toyota, looking for engine oil, because we had none of it - for the case that we would have to top up.

But after a short time the tire was again operational, only the aluminum rim had some scratches due to the African way of working. But it isnt a beauty contest, who cares about the rims on an 4x4?

In the afternoon, we issued our car including all content to a cleaning service - not so easy to leave it so - fully loaded and with the keys... With slightly foreboding as we sat for two hours in the pool, and waited anxiously what to expect, when to pick up.
Of course, the moped taxi shuttle guy try to make a new deal, because the price he originally agreed was not enough. Of course i don`t give him more. a deal is a deal - and if necessary, I walk the short distance. With much grumbling I was driven to the cleaning service - who was equipped very professional. Brummie - wow - say like new. Some welts from driving through single tracks were still there but that is nothing who is cleanable on side of the vehicle.

I had need hours to check if everything is still there - so i just do a short quickcheck about the expensive parts of our equipment - everything was still there.

Later we enjoyed the pool and the restaurant - as i said the sea is not very inviting.


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You can progress reading also in our Blog @ http://transafrica2012.blogspot.com - but i will tell the whole story here - and try to translate everything.
 

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