Traversing the US (and back)

[jessejman]

Day 5: Near Newkirk, OK to a field west of Liberal, KS



We finally found the flat part of Oklahoma and it became somewhat monotonous but at least it was fast. We also had our first 'issue' with the vehicle.



Most of the day was spent on nice fast roads right on the stateline of Kansas and Oklahoma.



It was still quite pretty and mostly green.



The only obstacles were the occasional reroutes around private property. The road would just end in a field.



We headed into Kiowa, KS for gas and then into Liberal, KS later for a stop in a park and so I could trouble shoot the overheating problem we were having. We'd been battling a head wind all day and that would shoot engine temps up if we tried to run the A/C.



Lunch time.



And play time - just not in the front seat.



Three huge harvesters passed us near Liberal. Note how far off the road we were. They didn't even slow down - shoot, I wound't have either.



Oh, and the tracks turned sandy.



We took this road just outside of Liberal, KS and headed for a National Grassland for camping. Little did we know we had a lot more driving ahead of us.

 

[jessejman]

Day 5 continued

Two nice things about driving late: kids go to sleep easily and the light makes for great pictures.

 

[jessejman]

Day 5 continued

Finding a place to camp ended up being much harder than we thought it would be. We had a sort of unspoken rule that we would try to camp on BLM, State or National Forest land the whole time. Getting woken up by an angry shotgun toting property owner was not high on our list of things to achieve. This night, however, this just wasn't possible. We were inside a national grassland and even the GPS had us in the 'green' but everywhere we looked were cultivated fields with the random homesteads dotting the passing countryside.

We were running out of time, the sun had all but set and finally, pretty much exasperated we pulled onto a very small trail that was probably only used by a farmer checking on his fields. Anyway, it was basically dark and we decieded we would be safe enough and far enough away from anyone that we'd have no trouble. About an hour after dark and an hour into putting the kids to bed, which is really just getting them to fall asleep, a semi-truck geared down and began to turn onto the 'road' we were parked on. It was the second vehicle to pass and here it was shining it's lights onto us. We held our breath and I mentally prepared our story - the truth but as soon as it's lights hit us, he stopped, backed up and drove down the road. We were relieved but still left a little on edge.

 

[jronwood]

Great stuff. Three kids of my own, 4-5-10, wanting to do the AlCan someday........

Jronwood

 

[jessejman]

Day 6: West of Liberal to near Rye, CO

Our fifth night out (last night) we didn't use the roof tent as it was extremely windy. Our second option is for all the kids and my wife to pile in the back and I'm left to fend for myself outside. So they slept decently in the back of the LC and I slept in the sandy dirt in wheat field. It was a long night for me as sand was constantly blowing around me and I didn't have a ground pad - we only took two and they were both occupied. I was finally able to sleep by walking into the grain field and crushing down some of the stalks creating a sort of windbreak.








Day 6 was a Sunday and sometime around mid-morning the 'road' we were traveling down deteriorated into two ruts and then finally ended in a field. We turned around and started driving back the way we'd come to a more defined road when a white pick-up came barreling down on us. Immediately suspecting the issue I stopped dead in our tracks and rolled the windows down. We sat and waited as he approached, cloud of dust following. He slid to a stop next to us and after his dust settled and we could see each other he brusquely asked us what we were doing. We told him - traveling from Tennessee to Oregon on gravel roads. "We're on private property aren't we?" we asked. The man told us that he'd been chasing us down for about three miles and that we'd been on his property the entire time. We quickly apologized and asked directions out. The directions were long and changed every time he told us so we just nodded and asked him to show us off of his property. Before he did that I asked him how much land he owned. He looked at me, gave me a yellowed tooth smile and told me his family owned 7000 acres. That may not be a lot to some of you one Expo, but that's a heck of lot to me.





I distinctly remember a feeling of relief as we entered Colorado and began climbing up into the cooler air and back into the trees.



We camped in a beautiful and secluded spot off of Ophir Creek Road. Not Ophir Pass near Silverton; we were West of Rye and East of Westcliffe.



It was a long day and we did run pavement from Walsenburg, Co. north to Rye where we went to Bishop's Castle...

 

[jessejman]

Day 6: Bishops Castle, Rye, Co

Hand built by Jim Bishop. He is a metalworker/welder by day and 'the castle-builder'by night. This place is a must-see if you're in southern Colorado. It was my second time there and I was just as amazed to see it this time. A quick search on you tube will bring up lots of interviews and videos of the castle.

 

[jessejman]

Day 6: end



View from the castle



That's Mr. Bishop himself, hard at it.



We enjoyed the fire very much as the temperature dropped significantly due to our elevation. But after the heat of the plains it was nice to cool off at night. The kids loved the fire as always and we decided to take a slow-day tomorrow or at least a slow morning.

 

[skrillah]

Great story, keep it coming!

 

[jessejman]

Day 7: Rye to Medano Pass, CO

Day 7 we got a off to a slow start - woke up late, went on a short hike down a creek, waited on bucket-washed clean clothes to dry. Out of the campsite we climbed up to a pass between Greenhorn Mountain and Charleston Peak. It wasn't steep but it was cool, green and pretty - a perfect warm-up before hitting the higher passes.





When I saw the sign saying that there was 21 miles of downhill ahead of us I thought it would be a perfect time to start getting used to the elevation on my bike.




We drove tarmac for about thirty miles into Westcliffe where we had planned to meet friends for the night. Unfortunately they weren't able to make it down. No worries; we love Westcliffe and know the area somewhat so we hung around town and stocked up on a few items before heading back out of town and up towards Medano Pass to camp.

 

[jessejman]

Day 7 cont.



Looking into the Sangre De Cristos in the Crestone area or 'the big mountains' as our kids started calling them. They were eager to see them closer and to see snow.



The road leading towards Medano Pass.



Can you spot the deer in the second picture?



The kids were having a great time and enjoyed the cooler weather and the fire.



Covering less miles let us recuperate some energy and being in the mountains offered more opportunities to hike and play.

 

[jessejman]

Day 8: Medano Pass to Stormking Mountain, CO

We headed up Medano Pass headed towards the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Years ago we lived in this area and drove by the sand dunes often on the highways but never made it over to see them. Lucky for us, this was a no-highways trip and our route took us right into the park.




There wasn't much to Medano Pass. Great views but almost no technical driving. There were a few rock-step-type areas and some steep climbs over loose stone but nothing that gave us any trouble.

 

[40tude]

We went through Medano on our root too. We quite enjoyed it. Keep up the good work.

 

[jessejman]

We went through Medano on our root too. We quite enjoyed it. Keep up the good work.

Did you have to pay the fee at the exit of the park?

 

[jessejman]

Day 8 continued









On this section of road we also saw our first bear of the trip. It was a medium sized black bear that turned on its haunches right in the middle or the road as we came around a turn.



And then we finally saw the dunes. And took a lunch break and the 'public pool.' It was hot!

 

[jessejman]

Day 8 continued



Sweet, sand driving. This was my first experience driving in sand (and it wasn't even very deep) but it was trickier than I'd expected even aired down. I could have aired down more but didn't really have any trouble so it wasn't needed.



We loved the dichotomy of the green, sand and blue of the sky. I wish we had gone through/stayed during the evening to see the soft light on the dunes.





They are taller and more impressive than I was expecting. In the photos they almost look fake.



Poser shot!